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RetroCarGuy530
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1,612 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to add RCA inputs to connect a MP3 player directly into the Bose (with 6 CD changer) head unit.

I've located the references on this site to a GM12-AUX and I've also found a newer GM12-AUXV2 which claims to be compatible with the Bose with 6 CD changer.

Has anyone actually installed one of these units and where did you get the 12 volt power from for this unit (switched or unswitched)?

logjamelectronics

Crutchfield
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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1,612 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I installed the GM12-AUXV2 unit yesterday. The upper dash cover removal was just as much fun as others stated it would be.... :banghead

I ended up using the power from the cigarette lighter. I cut the power leads to the lighter after the GM power plug and I then added my own two wire connector. This lets me reconnect the cigarette lighter if I decided to at a later time. (That's not going to happen).

I had to make one internal dash modification. The GM12-AUXV2 plugs into the passenger side rear of the radio head unit. When you attempt to slide the radio head unit back into place, the wire connector for the GM12-AUXV2 hits the plastic of the dash enclosure directly behind it. The other side of the radio head unit has a lower lip in the dash enclosure and that is how the GM connector avoids the issue. I ended up cutting out a small chunk of the dash enclosure directly behind where the GM12-AUXV2 plugs into the radio head unit.

I then mounted the GM12-AUXV2 electronics module on the back/right side of the ash tray drop panel. This way all I have to do to connect my MP3 player is open the ash tray compartment and pull out the connecting wire that I store in the ash tray and connect it to my mp3 player.

The first picture is the GM12-AUXV2 plug on the back side of the radio head unit. The second picture shows the GM12-AUXV2 unit in the ash tray compartment.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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1,742 Posts
Very cool, shiftz33!

Thanks for the great pictures too...........

BTW, how long to pull the dash and get it back together if you had to do it again?
I want to modify the position of my XM radio antenna, but it involves removing the dash front.
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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1,612 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Knowing what I know now (first hand) it would take about 10 minutes to remove the upper dash piece and about 15 minutes to reinstall. Dealing with the passenger side air bag cover certainly is most of that time.

Removal

1) Remove three HVAC control knobs
2) Remove passenger side middle dash trim (long piece)
3) Remove driver side middle dash trim
4) Remove the 7mm bolts that hold down the upper dash cover
5) Remove several of the lower dash cover 7mm bolts to allow for movement in that piece
6) Lower the steering column to give yourself more room.
7) Remove the outer dash lips from the extreme side trim by the A-pillars
8) Remove the dash cover from driver side to passenger side
9) Carefully remove the dash cover from around the air bag cover (slowly)
 

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Jim-n-Tanya
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1,354 Posts
Air Bag

I made the mistake of letting a different installer than I normally use; to install my NAV. When he put the dash back on he really tore it up. I now have brand new scratches in the air bag cover and the cover is pretty bent up from him trying to put it back over the dash. Is there anything to do to fix the warping of the airbag cover and the scratches?
:bs
 

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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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10,102 Posts
Air Bag permanent improvement

The Air Bag cover should have a part number on it. When I had my airbag out, it appeared to be an individually replaceable part.

I installed the XM receiver into my truck a few months ago and had to deal with the airbag. I started to try to work the dash past it, but gave up when I started distorting the cover too much. I then elected to remove the airbag..... The two screws that go into the module from the bottom were easy. Got those without too much trouble. The two nuts on the forward side of the module were a different story. Flashlight an mirror to locate them and a combination of 1/4" drive socket extensions and a universal joint in the middle were required to remove them. A real stinker of a job. Thanks to the Service Manual for the excellent diagrams on the locations....
I elected to NOT reinstall the two nuts on the forward facing studs when I re-installed the airbag. I saw no reason to hold in something that is pushed in harder when it deploys. The two bolts that come in from below are more than enough to keep the module from falling out into the passenger's lap.

When my stereo lost its mind on the way home from Kingsburg and could not remeber that it had 5 CDs in it, I had to have the dealership replace the head unit. I told the Service Writer that the two nuts were not on there any more and he noted such to the tech that did the work. When I picked up the truck later that day, I had a very gracious thanks from the service tech. I guess that those two nuts are a dreaded part of the instrument panel access.

I highly recommend that anyone getting into the dash go the extra mile to remove the two nuts on the forward side of the air bag module. It is a real pain and takes an extra 20 minutes, but will be a real time saver in the future. I was amazed at the amount of dash board material behind the airbag. I would have surely messed something up trying to force it past.

Regards,

Mike
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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1,612 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
GM12-AUXV2 installation v2.0

I ordered and installed another GM12-AUXV2 unit into my black/silver 2006 SSR today.

Based on the knowledge from the install in my previous SSR, I was able to come up with a way to install this unit WITHOUT removing the dash. Thank goodness!

The connector that is inserted into the back end of the Bose head unit can be reached by dropping the ash tray door. There's not a lot of space, but enough to put a pull wire around the metal tube bracing under the radio unit. I used this to pull up the 12 wire connector (with the monster blue snaps removed) up to the back side of the radio head unit. I was able to get my fat fingers up there enough to insert the 12 wire connector into the back end of the radio unit. I then used a tie wrap to secure the wiring harness to the large metal tube brace below the radio to hold everything in place.

I secured the audio input unit to the ash try door like before but this time I used industrial strength velcro (from home depot) to secure the unit to the door instead of screws like I did the last time.

I was really not looking forward to removing the dash to install this unit and in the end I figured a way to avoid it.

I can listen to my mp3 player again. :party
 

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I ordered and installed another GM12-AUXV2 unit into my black/silver 2006 SSR today.

Based on the knowledge from the install in my previous SSR, I was able to come up with a way to install this unit WITHOUT removing the dash. Thank goodness!

The connector that is inserted into the back end of the Bose head unit can be reached by dropping the ash tray door. There's not a lot of space, but enough to put a pull wire around the metal tube bracing under the radio unit. I used this to pull up the 12 wire connector (with the monster blue snaps removed) up to the back side of the radio head unit. I was able to get my fat fingers up there enough to insert the 12 wire connector into the back end of the radio unit. I then used a tie wrap to secure the wiring harness to the large metal tube brace below the radio to hold everything in place.

I secured the audio input unit to the ash try door like before but this time I used industrial strength velcro (from home depot) to secure the unit to the door instead of screws like I did the last time.

I was really not looking forward to removing the dash to install this unit and in the end I figured a way to avoid it.

I can listen to my mp3 player again. :party

GREAT TIP!
 

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I did the same thing as Shiftz33, except that I hard wired the power to the cigarette lighter so that it could still be used as a power source. Also, I wrapped the AUXV2 in bubble wrap to insulate it. The dash top gets pretty hot in the sun, and I didn't want to have to do the job again in case something overheated. Micro circuitry can't take extreme heat well, I believe.

StrokerMcGurk

:blue:
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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Discussion Starter #10
Like StrokerMcGurk, I hard wired the GM12-AUXV2 into the cig lighter wiring this time. It was easier to do that than what I had done during my previous installation.

My AUXV2 unit is located on the ash tray door so it sits in the "middle" of the air space of the dash away from any direct heat source. Even with the ash tray door open, there's very little chance for direct sunlight to hit the AUXV2 module itself.
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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Discussion Starter #12

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They are very similar in function except the Soundgate device has the option to add an iPod interface with another device. I was thinking of getting the Soundgate unit but I could not find any store/website that had any in stock.
Thanks, Shiftz33. My '06'll go in for a head unit transplant later this week. Once the dash assembly has been "deflowered," I'm thinking I'll tear back into it at home later to install one of these, and also to make sure the dealer put everything back together correctly.

Thanks to all who've posted to this thread with their tips on dash disassembly / reassembly.

I'm now looking at the Neucleus NC-X2i, instead. Where are the best connection points and methods for power and ground?
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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Discussion Starter #14
I've used the cigarette lighter power/ground for the two units I've installed. Since I don't smoke, there's no chance of the lighter being used so it seemed like the best solution.
 

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Makes sense. Did you repurpose the power and ground leads to the cigarette lighter, tap into them or cut/splice them?
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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Discussion Starter #16
Makes sense. Did you repurpose the power and ground leads to the cigarette lighter, tap into them or cut/splice them?
In my former 05 SSR, I cut the wires going to the cigarette lighter and used the power solely for the AUXV2. In my recent installation into my 06 SSR, I used a wire splice (positive and ground) to leave the GM connector in place.
 
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