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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 SSR with 5,000 miles on it. Was running great...everything worked. Started the car up and the entire dash lit up and stayed lit up. Only guages working are the tach, speedo, and display. ABS, brake, battery, speedo and seatbelt light are on. Power seats and windows work slowly....when I push the button, dash display dims. When I push the top button, display says "Reduce Speed"!!! Radio, turn signals all work. My innova scanner reports only Code U2100. Took it to an independent repair shop for a diagnostics....he reported about 20 codes, mostly referring to the roof door module. He recommended replacing that module and "maybe" the instument pod. The codes were not definitive as to the problem. I have replaced the ignition switch and roof module....nothing changed. The only other work I've done was to replace a door latch and radio. I'm totally lost!!! Any help and/or guesses would be much appreciated. You can reach me at 410-749-1011, Phil Parker
 

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Electrical Issue

Please list all of the active Diagnostic Trouble Codes (not historical ones that might have been stored) and we might be able to better assist with a diagnosis. You should ask your shop to clear all existing codes (if they have not already done so) and then take a new reading with their scanner.

I would also suggest checking that all grounds are tight and free of corrosion. Poor grounds are a common cause of mysterious electrical gremlins. Ground locations have been listed by others on this forum. Look here:

https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f103/electrical-ground-locations-143129/

One more simple thing to check first: What's the condition of your battery?
 

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:agree totally with @snomuncher

I would possibly check grounds and battery before having somebody pull codes.
Check battery while under the back check all three connections on the battery ground cable. (these are common grounds to all systems that are acting up from limited information received)
Then check G301 -- both window motors (NOT window motor position sensors) and RDM, ground at this location.
Recheck for proper operation and codes using your own scanner after removing, cleaning and tightening grounds.
If problems still exist - check ALL systems for operation - lights, wipers, etc etc. (report results)
If you do have a shop run codes - ask them to perform an all system scan and to note not only what codes were set but which module set what codes (all modules on a serial data network can store a code if it is communicating!) Your scanner is probably only an OBDII scanner and only receiving codes from the Engine Control Module (on the CAN network).
Is your SSR an Auto (if so it has an trans module also on CAN) or Manual trans (if so, it does not have a trans Module!). All other modules communicate via class 2 network.
Can the scan tool communicate with the other modules and do they have codes? particularly can the scanner communicate with the RDM or IPC since they claim these two modules may be at fault?
(report results)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you snomuncher for your reply and advice. Dictator advised me on the grounds and voltage checks....everything seems to be correct....new battery, fully charged. The following is a list of the diagnostic codes I was given:

Roof/Door Module: U1017, U1041, B1517, B1518, B3674, B3675, B3676, B3677.
Body Module: B2961, U1000, U1017.
Engine Codes: P0463, U1301.

I am getting desperate.....Could the after-market radio have anything to do with my problem? Working on the truck today, 3 of the guages started intermittedly working and the battery light went out.

Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to offer. Phil Parker 410-749-1011.
 

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I am getting desperate.....Could the after-market radio have anything to do with my problem? Working on the truck today, 3 of the guages started intermittedly working and the battery light went out.

Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to offer.
Did all of this happen at the exact same time as the aftermarket radio installation? Could be that the installer misread some wires, there is a serial bus wire in the back of the stereo, if connected in error it could be putting stray signals on the bus and causing issues.

Could be quite a few other issues too but be patient as the help here is extraordinary.
 

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Check wiring to gauges- Chevy Dicktators drive. I believe he renamed from unknown driver to data network? Not sure but it was authored by Ed in Fla.

I am at a car show and won't have access to look up codes. I sure wish they would have cleared codes and see which ones reset.

However to answer your question, yes an aftermarket radio could cause problems especially depending on how it was wired. The factory radio is connected to the class 2 network. The warning chimes (key in in, top cycle complete etc.) and turn signal chimes.

As you inspect wires I believe most class 2 data wires are different shades of green with different color tracers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The radio in my truck was installed prior to my ownership and it works fine. If the ignition switch was installed one cog off, could it cause these problems? The truck starts and runs great. Any help would be appreciated. Phil Parker 410-749-1011
 

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You mentioned that three of the gauges started working while you were working on the truck, which three -
Do you have center console gauges?

I looked up all of your codes and I did not find any one code that I would suggest to follow until a couple of things were done.
Clear codes and see which codes reset.
I would also run a system scan with a fully compliant scan tool ( it should be able to communicate with the following modules)

The class 2 serial data line on this vehicle is a star configuration. The following modules communicate on the class 2 serial data line:
• The audio amplifier
• The auxiliary gauge center (IF EQUIPPED)
• The body control module (BCM)
• The electronic brake control module (EBCM)
• The inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module (SDM)
• The instrument panel cluster (IPC)
• The memory seat module (MSM) - driver
• The radio (MAYBE NOT SINCE NOT OEM) - but does your warning chime work - if so radio is on network!
• The remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR)
• The roof/door module (RDM)

The scan tool should be able to access each module -- and then check each module for a code.
Our Tech 2 and our OTC scanner will run a system scan and check each module automatically and then report the results of all modules.
Our snap on scanner requires that you select each module and then check for codes

Your result shows RDM,BCM and ECM - but it does not tell me did IPC report "no codes found" or did it not show anything on scan tool.

If the scanner does not list the module - the scanner does not support it. - AFTER reviewing all of the codes, If the scan tool shows a module but won't communicate with it and the car is equipped with that module (example auxiliary gauges) then that module is where I would start for communication issues (U codes)

As I mentioned in a previous post - since gauges and IPC doesn't work - I would also try to establish communication with IPC and perform a functional test.

I am sorry that I can't provide information on diagnosis without using some input from a scanner. Doing anything or replacing parts without proper diagnosis is like blindly throwing darts at a dartboard --
Throw enough of them and you will hit the bullseye. Replace enough parts and you will finally fix the car. Yous is not a case where the entire network is down, as some of the others posted here.
 

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I have been thinking about your problem and trying to come up with other things to check yourself.
Question. Do all of the other systems seem to work?
I know you said it runs and drives but does the roof, door locks, windows, cruise control all seem to work.

If yes then this may help. If no please let us know what else doesn't work.

Another member successfully substituted a trailblazer IPC for his and everything functioned. This is a time consuming but fairly inexpensive dart to throw. I personally would not want to remove dash if avoidable. I have not removed upper air bag bolts and don't like forcing around the air bag or cutting any part of the dash. Just my opinion. I have seen too many with distorted air bag covers.

The information can be found here.

https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/2003-cluster-chase-continues-244927/

I would take pictures of plugs or look at diagrams before purchase or trying it.

Again, not my preference. It is merely an observation from previous posts. That is if you want to try something before throwing in the towel.

EDIT IMPORTANT -- oops I just realized you have an 06, his was an 03. This probably won't work. Your IPC communicates with ECM with a data line not on star network. I am not sure if this is true for 03 and 04. I will try to find time to research this further tomorrow.
 

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EDIT IMPORTANT -- oops I just realized you have an 06, his was an 03. This probably won't work. Your IPC communicates with ECM with a data line not on star network. I am not sure if this is true for 03 and 04. I will try to find time to research this further tomorrow.
OK so I checked the connectors on the IPC - the 04 SSR and the 06 SSR are identical -- so a swap is possible. Not sure of what year trailblazers will work? Read the the post in the previous link I provided.

Again I would attempt this ONLY if the IPC is the only thing not working!

EDIT -- I checked a couple of trailblazer IPC diagrams --- The IPC connector of 03-06 Trailblazers are the same as 03-06 SSR - the wires are same colors and used for the same things - the only difference I could see was some trailblazers use an additional wire for low washer fluid level -- shouldn't matter even if cluster does have the light there won't be a wire in the spot to turn the light on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Auto Prof -- thanks very much for your assistance. Tested all the systems in the truck today. With the truck on, the ABS, brake, fuel, and battery lights are on and stay on while running. The three IPC guages are not working, tach and speedo are ok. Cargo release switch is not working, no a/c, top not working, display says "reduce speed". The following are working: door locks, seats and memory, chimes, radio, wipers, turns and all lights, tach and speed, windows work slowly....dims the display and they are not indexing. Batterty maintains charge after one week of not running.

While test driving this morning, something new: the entire IPC went black. Nothing lit up....no tach or speedo...next start, came back on. I guess I should replace IPC??? I have a parts truck so it's just my time. Speaking of time, I would be more than willing to reimburse you for the time you have spent helping me on this. Let me know. Phil Parker 410-749-1011
 

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Definitely thinking there is an issue on Class 2 data bus with so many things going south. Have you inspected the Splice pack/comb behind the OBD II port? Would love to get a scope on the bus to see the data train.
 

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Inspected and cleaned splice pack/comb....everything seems good there. Swapped out the IPC....absolutely no change. Still have all original problems. Does anyone know if I replace the body control module, does the truck have to be reprogrammed at the dealer? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Phil Parker
 

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Electrical Mystery

Before replacing any modules, please confirm if the thirteen codes listed in your earlier post are the currently active codes. As noted by autoprof and river_rat, many of the codes reported are linked to Class 2 serial data communications among several modules. With the right diagnostic scanner, it is posible to query each module to determine which one or ones are not communicating. Approaching the diagnostics this way rather than randomly replacing expensive modules without knowing for certain which one(s) are defective would save both time and money. At this point it doesn't appear that the Body Control Module has definitely been determined as the culprit.
 

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Inspected and cleaned splice pack/comb....everything seems good there. Swapped out the IPC....absolutely no change. Still have all original problems. Does anyone know if I replace the body control module, does the truck have to be reprogrammed at the dealer? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Phil Parker
Phil
I would really like to know which codes are current and which codes are history. This would help immensely in the diagnostic process. I currently might even lean more towards a problem with the ECM than the BCM. The U1017 in the RDM and BCM point to loss of communication from the ECM. However, The ECM code U1301 points to class 2 data voltage high - and suggested that the class 2 data line may be shorted to voltage or have a defective module - which could be a defective ECM! If this codes is current the computer won't self test for the other codes and the diagnostic process is different.
This is why knowing which codes are current and which one are history codes is extremely important.

I would also like to see if other modules have a code U1017. If the ECM is not sending the proper state of health message out on the class 2 network - then ALL modules communicating on the class 2 network will recognize the problem and they will ALL have the code U1017.
So the modules that are working will give you clues pointing to the modules (or the communication lines to the modules) which are not working properly. If the network is down entirely (shorted to ground or voltage code U1301 may be set) the computer cannot see any state of health messages correctly, and therefore will not set the U1017 code. They cannot both be a current code! The approach would then be to diagnosis the current code(s).


Regarding swapping the BCM (AGAIN this module seems to be working!)

The BCM, ECM and the passlock sensor are all components of the vehicle theft deterrent system -

There are 3 anti-theft system on the SSR --
Radio -- VIN matched to BCM -- will not function in another vehicle unless programmed -- IT WILL NOT prevent the car from starting - it effects radio operation only.
Content anti-theft - sounds signal (blows horn, flashes lights) if car door, trunk opened improperly - it has to be armed by locking doors when open (console switch or key fob!) this also will not prevent the car from starting
Vehicle anti-theft -- disables the fuel injectors when the ignition lock cylinder sensor sends incorrect signal to BCM - which then sends disable injector signal to PCM. If correct signal received - BCM sends enable signal to PCM. This will not blow the horn or flash lights!

While you could replace a BCM or ECM from an exact year and model parts car, the vehicle anti-theft system would need to be relearned and the vin stored in BCM would not match and factory radio and possible other options would not function.
The vehicle anti theft relearn can be done with a scan tool in about 10 minutes or without a scan tool it is longer. Without it takes patience and usually over 30 minutes (if successful on first try) - procedures are in the service manual or email me. Too long to post. [email protected]

AGAIN ---- Try first to determine which codes are current and history codes! Good scan tool will state this!!!!!!!!

EDIT One more reason to suspect the ECM first -- the tach and speedo signals are sent to the IPC directly from the ECM - they are not on the class 2 network.
HOWEVER
I am also concerned that windows and power seats are slow --
DID you check all grounds and battery connections, do not forget connections at battery junction box under the hood. -- also did you remove battery and have it tested????
 

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Electrical Mustery

I agree with autoprof. My trace of all the codes provided earlier also points to the ECM as a possible cause because of the lack of communication fault as well as the voltage anomalies. Class 2 communications errors are also common among other codes. But until all history codes are cleared and only active codes are reported, it is difficult to isolate the cause(s) of the problem(s).
 
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