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jack size

If all your going to jack up is your SSR the 1.5 is fine.
 

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Hey, Red

The 1 1/2 ton will be enough to raise the SSR, BUT getting a higher rating means significantly lowered jacking effort. I use a 1 1/2 to lift boats at shows because it's quite compact, and fits in a side compartment of my truck, but there are days I would kill for a heavier capacity, especially after taking the 12th wheel off in one evening. I would definitely own a larger jack if it was sitting on my garage floor. The heavier jack will also roll a lot better. Just check that it has enough ground clearance so it gets under the frame with no problem.

Ray
 

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The pictures arn't much to go by. Too cheap to be true is likely so. It looks like a sheetmetal construction. I will work as advertized, but I'd worry about durability.

Have you stopped at the local auto parts store? You want something that is solid, with parts that don't wobble excessively. Wheels with bearings will make moving the vehicle easier. Bigger wheels will roll over cracks easier.

Tool stores are a good place to look too. Post Tool is one local to me.
 

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floor jack

The one I use is a 2 ton and it does the job fine. But like the previous post says, make sure it has a good frame and good wheels if you are going to be moving the SSR with it.
 

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J.C. Whitney also has some very nice jacks at reasonable prices. If you want to get fancy, you can even get them with flames! I prefer the larger 2 ton silver one.
 

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how high?

I've used many a floor jack but I don't own one presently.

Maybe someone could help redssrloaded by checking just how high a floor jack has to lift to raise both wheels off the ground.

We can eliminate some jacks that way.

BTW the SSR, compared to my Sebring, has an amazing amount of ground clearance. I suspect it would be very hard to buy a jack that didn't fit under it.
 

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I saw a nice aluminum jack at Costco. Looked cool and was quite light and had a capacity of around 2 tons. Price was about $200 canadian. They also had a heavier 3 ton for less than half the price and I bought the larger one to lift my Escalade. It's quite heavy and I would not want to haul it around.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I love my new jack

I went to Sams and got the only kind ( Michelin 3 ton) they had there. Works great for all my cars (SSR, BMW 325, Range Rover). Thanks guys for all the help. it's a little bigger than what I thought but I figured if I wanted to get a tractor, I'm set :)

It works great, real easy to raise the cars. What do you guys think? Was only $60. It's heavy though (94 lbs). I also bought a set of stands for $27. Please let me know if they look OK. I can always return them. I have no experience in this kind of stuff...
 

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Sam the Sham ....

redssrloaded said:
I went to Sams and got the only kind ( Michelin 3 ton) they had there. Works great for all my cars (SSR, BMW 325, Range Rover). Thanks guys for all the help. it's a little bigger than what I thought but I figured if I wanted to get a tractor, I'm set :)

It works great, real easy to raise the cars. What do you guys think? Was only $60. It's heavy though (94 lbs). I also bought a set of stands for $27. Please let me know if they look OK. I can always return them. I have no experience in this kind of stuff...

and the Pharoahs sang Wolly Bully in 1965, it was a #2 song! And you thought I was gonna dis Sam's Club! :lol Seriously, these should be just fine. Just be careful.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do you guys think I can use the same jack and the stands to get all 4 tires off and paint the calipers? The rear ones would be supported by the stand and the front ones by the jack. Is this too dangerous? Where do I put the stands? TIA
 

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We really haven't talked about jack stands...

...except to say they are a must for working under a vehicle. Stands with a wider base are harder to tip over.

You put the stands at any of the places you would put a jack. I don't think I would put one under a centerline position.

edit: Before you start taking wheels off, match mark one stud and the wheel hole it passes thru. A dab of color on each will do. This is so the wheel will go back on in the same orientation. Don't want to change the balance.

One of my neice's x-boyfriends ownes a tow truck. He decided to use it to lift the front end of a vehicle and crawl under to do some work. He forgot he had the lift's remote control in his back pocket. You know what happened next! Yep. He triggered the lift to lower the car, pinning him under it. Was very lucky someone was there to extract him. A couple of cracked ribs... He decided right there to scrap the remote.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so, can I use 2 stands for the rear, and the jack for the front to effectively be able to take all 4 wheels off at once?
 

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Hi, Red

Just buy 2 more jackstands. There's really nothing up front to jack at the center, so you'd need to put the jack under the differential pumpkin. I have 4 jackstands, and have no problem leaving the truck on its frame with all 4 wheels off. No chance that I'd be anywhere near it with only the jack supporting the entire rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
what is a differntial pumpkin? I'd appreciate a picture if you can post. I am really having a hard time imagining where to put the jack stands. I have to jack the car up and then push the jack stands under it? Doesn't that damage the car if I lower the jack abruptly (which happens when I lower the jack) to seat it on the jack stand?
 

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The frame rails are fairly large and square. You can place the front jackstands about 3 inches back from the rear edge of the front fenderwell on the frame rail (about where the triangular brace attaches to the frame.

The rear jackstands can go under the attaching point for the lower trailing arm. (the sway bar gets in the way of the rear axle. Or you can go forward about 2 feet, and place the jackstands on the frame just back of the round cross brace.

The pumpkin is where the driveshaft attaches to the rear axle - not a great spot to grab, because the sway bar is in the way here also.

Like I said, get two more jackstands, and jack up each corner individually, or if your jack is strong enough, lift the whole side at once. Again, forget about working around any vehicle sitting on a hydraulic jack - nothing good is going to happen.

Your jack doesn't have to come down hard - just turn the valve enough so the jack comes down slow and smooth - this ain't NASCAR - no need to rush.

You might want to get a mechanically inclined friend to help you the first time. Also, if you're taking the wheels off, loosen the nuts slightly before you get the wheels in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
thanks a bunch.
 
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