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Discussion Starter #1
The check engine light is on, and to the right of that above the other set of gauges is what looks like a check engine light with a down arrow inside the engine and the battery light is on.

I have pulled fuse 27 under the hood overnight. I have removed the ignition switch, replaced it, tried another and put the first one back. It is the newer, gray one, I tried the older black one, no difference.

Once when I pulled the # 27 fuse the check engine light did go away.

I found these codes, but not sure how old they are. This is the same order they are displayed in.
0101, 0120, 0220, 1516

I did have it tuned at the Texas Rally, but have over 1000 miles on it since.

I just removed the windshield washer tank and in the process, I had to remove a part that resembles an electrical connector or switch. There is a picture below. It is located to the front of the washer and and mounted on the fender.

I had nearly all of the warning lights come on and after firmly tightening that "switch" back, they went off.

The starter spins but it does not usually fire. If it does run it is missing badly.

I had read on the forum that pulling #27 will clear the check engine light and if there is a problem the light will come back on. In my manual, that fuse is labeled as Windshield washer- Coincidence?

I'm waiting on a new pump so the electrical connector to the pump was not connected. I even reconnected that. The pump works, it just leaks.

Any suggestions?
 

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Here is some quick information
What you have pictured is a relay - and based on the what I can tell of the picture it is one of the cooling fan relays (there should be two of them next to each other may be different colors)

Found a TSB for codes other than P0101 ( see photo copy of TSBs) -- found two previous repairs on trailblazer SS listed for broken yellow wire near throttle body (broken internally only) as mentioned in TSB. I would also check all grounds http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f103/electrical-ground-locations-143129/
Note the picture in first post pointing to G105 -- right behind relay you have pictured - but should not create your symptoms - but bad grounds do weird things.

Fuse 27 is washer relay -- are you sure it wasn't #29 and #13 -- both of these supply power to PCM.

After checking all of this I would clear (if pulling fuses didn't) and recheck codes.

I hope this helps somewhat - Sorry -- I don't have a lot of time to research this at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here is some quick information
What you have pictured is a relay - and based on the what I can tell of the picture it is one of the cooling fan relays (there should be two of them next to each other may be different colors)

Found a TSB for codes other than P0101 ( see photo copy of TSBs) -- found two previous repairs on trailblazer SS listed for broken yellow wire near throttle body (broken internally only) as mentioned in TSB. I would also check all grounds http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f103/electrical-ground-locations-143129/
Note the picture in first post pointing to G105 -- right behind relay you have pictured - but should not create your symptoms - but bad grounds do weird things.

Fuse 27 is washer relay -- are you sure it wasn't #29 and #13 -- both of these supply power to PCM.



It was #27 but not for my model.
I found this post from Dicktator


"Removing fuse #27 will NOT work on 04, only 05/06.

03/04 has different fuse box, remove #29 and #13, that would be the same as removing #27 in the 05/06."

I'll pull these and check the wiring you mentioned. I also found that info you listed and will read it carefully.
Thanks
 

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'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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If you drove 1000 miles after there tune, and it happened after you messed with the "Washer", I'd say recheck everything you disconnected to be sure they are ALL plugged and making good contact, and no wires got PINCHED under a bolt, nut, washer, bracket---.

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've pulled fuses, wiggled wires, tightened grounds all to no avail.

I did drive it about 40 miles after the washer removal with several stops. I had no problems. When I went back to the garage to start it, the warning lights were on. It cranked but the accelerator was no responsive. Press it and no increase in RPMs.

Then I tightened the relay connection mentioned in autoprof's post, which as he said probably wasn't directly related to the problem, but could have been a contributing ground issue.

But that is after I had driven it.

On a side note, I'd like to than Jeep for putting a fuse puller in the fuse box. I borrowed to fuses from the jeep after two popped out of the SSR and took up residence somewhere between the fusebox and the garage floor.:banghead:frown2:
 

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I've pulled fuses, wiggled wires, tightened grounds all to no avail.

I did drive it about 40 miles after the washer removal with several stops. I had no problems. When I went back to the garage to start it, the warning lights were on. It cranked but the accelerator was no responsive. Press it and no increase in RPMs.
:
Wiggling wires will not change anything if wire broken on inside and not outside.
Which is mentioned in TSB and I stated two people found with trailblazer SS. Yellow wire going into throttle actuator.

Did you recheck codes after pulling fuses as I suggested?
 

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Dr Who
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Have you checked the basics.....do you have spark, fuel to the cylinders, timing, etc. Find what is missing and then back track from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, have to be careful talking electrical issues as the 03/04 and 05/06 are different.
Yeah, I just recently realized that. Someone else had solved their problem, but I didn't check their history to see what model it was.

I have two relays at the 41 relay site. I guess someone put an extra in beside the other one. I just saw that today when removing a fuse. I had also found one of the larger square fuses that didn't belong as well. Just parking spares I guess.

I didn't have the inner cover to the fuse box when I got the truck a couple of years ago. My replacement was for a a trail blazer so it really didn't match.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wiggling wires will not change anything if wire broken on inside and not outside.
Which is mentioned in TSB and I stated two people found with trailblazer SS. Yellow wire going into throttle actuator.

Did you recheck codes after pulling fuses as I suggested?
One code was deleted but the three that show up on that TSB came back.
0120, 0220, and 1516

I'm not a mechanic and my garage is a part of the house to park cars.

But, I am getting some very helpful ideas and excellent suggestions. I could get the codes because I added digital gauge to the pod that will do that. So far as tools, I'm more of a carpenter.

If you're still with me, how do I determine if the yellow wire is broken inside it's cover. The obvious way to me is to take the cover off. There are several wires in that bundle with very little room. I sure would not want to do more damage.
I do have a (can't remember the name) lighted probe with a penetrating point and ground clamp. Could I check close to the throttle body and then further back on the same wire to see if there is a break in the current?

Thanks again. We do not have a new car dealership of any kind in my county. So if it has to go to the shop that means pulled out of the garage and hauled off the mountain. I hope I can repair it.
I really do appreciate the help.
 

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'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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I didn't have the inner cover to the fuse box when I got the truck a couple of years ago. My replacement was for a a trail blazer so it really didn't match.
If you haven't already---copy and print bruce's diagram, the correct year, and glue in your box. That's what others have done--Good luck

Nick
 

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Cantankerous SSR CaretakR
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I truly believe that your issues are something simple. You have a spark or fuel issue. The first thing I would do is use the provided fuse block diagram and carefully check ALL fuses and relays being in the correct location. Also if I remember correctly, when you pulled the washer bottle you were moving the PCM. Make sure that all of the PCM connectors are fully seated. If you need to disconnect and reseat any of the PCM connectors, make sure you disconnect battery first, make sure the connector is aligned properly and fully seated and latched.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I truly believe that your issues are something simple. You have a spark or fuel issue. The first thing I would do is use the provided fuse block diagram and carefully check ALL fuses and relays being in the correct location. Also if I remember correctly, when you pulled the washer bottle you were moving the PCM. Make sure that all of the PCM connectors are fully seated. If you need to disconnect and reseat any of the PCM connectors, make sure you disconnect battery first, make sure the connector is aligned properly and fully seated and latched.
That could be the problem. I tooke the bolts out of the mount that holds the PCM and slid it over. I can't really tell where any wires or plugs are on it. That one big bundle runs across the top. But something in that area may have come unseated. I'll put the shop light on it and look and feel for any connectors.
Hopefully it will be something that simple.

I have a new washer pump coming tomorrow. Now I have to decide whether to make a paper weight out of it or go through this again.:surprise:

I'll be busy at the State Fair this weekend. It might be next week before I can share the results.

Thanks to everyone.
This is a very helpful place.
 

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Remember---river_rat said "DISCONNECT battery BEFORE you unplug/plug connectors on the PCM" Good Luck

Nick
 

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I agree with River Rat -- recheck all connections on anything that you moved or loosened. (i thought that you had already done this) Also LOW system voltage can set these codes

Did you have the throttle body removed and ported when you had the tune? --

Be sure that the fuse box terminals are not loose (don't over tighten) and that you check all fuses using test light (especially #21) for throttle actuator module. You can do this quickly with your test light
see the following You tube for more information https://youtu.be/gKgmIcmp7eo

Because only the three codes from the TSB reappeared I have attached a cleaner copy of the TSB that is easier to read. Note the TSB says that the wires break approximately 4 inches from the throttle body connection. You will have to carefully remove the plastic conduit to be able to closely inspect the wires - possibly just beyond the one breakout point (the place where other wires come out of the same harness). The yellow and brown wires are wires that come from the Throttle actuator control module and are used to make the throttle body motor open and close the throttle. You could confirm the operation of the throttle motor by removing the air inlet duct. Then watch the throttle plates while someone else turns on the key (just turn on do not attempt to start) you should see the throttle open slightly. Then have the person inside the car press accelerator pedal down and you should see the throttle plates open. If the throttle does in fact NOT move, You could confirm this is the cause of the no start by manually opening throttle plates (reach inside and hold open just a very small amount and do not put fingers underneath - push the plates open - do not pull them open) then have the person inside the car attempt to start, if engine starts this is where your problem lies. (NOTE this will set another codes in the computer for the mass air flow sensor. Unfortunately a number of other things beside broken wires could cause the throttle motor to not work.

If you were about 4-5 hours closer I would drive out and help. (2-3 hours one way would be all I could do)

I hope this helps - again recheck other connectors first --
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I truly believe that your issues are something simple. You have a spark or fuel issue. The first thing I would do is use the provided fuse block diagram and carefully check ALL fuses and relays being in the correct location. Also if I remember correctly, when you pulled the washer bottle you were moving the PCM. Make sure that all of the PCM connectors are fully seated. If you need to disconnect and reseat any of the PCM connectors, make sure you disconnect battery first, make sure the connector is aligned properly and fully seated and latched.
All the fuses are good. The PCM itself seems to be one of the soundest things on this truck. It was very well protected and all wires were very secure.

I"m not sure how to check the relays.

I'm also quoting autoprof and adding some comments. I hope you two and others may be able to help get this corrected.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I agree with River Rat -- recheck all connections on anything that you moved or loosened. (i thought that you had already done this) Also LOW system voltage can set these codes

Did you have the throttle body removed and ported when you had the tune? --

Be sure that the fuse box terminals are not loose (don't over tighten) and that you check all fuses using test light (especially #21) for throttle actuator module. You can do this quickly with your test light
see the following You tube for more information https://youtu.be/gKgmIcmp7eo

Because only the three codes from the TSB reappeared I have attached a cleaner copy of the TSB that is easier to read. Note the TSB says that the wires break approximately 4 inches from the throttle body connection. You will have to carefully remove the plastic conduit to be able to closely inspect the wires - possibly just beyond the one breakout point (the place where other wires come out of the same harness). The yellow and brown wires are wires that come from the Throttle actuator control module and are used to make the throttle body motor open and close the throttle. You could confirm the operation of the throttle motor by removing the air inlet duct. Then watch the throttle plates while someone else turns on the key (just turn on do not attempt to start) you should see the throttle open slightly. Then have the person inside the car press accelerator pedal down and you should see the throttle plates open. If the throttle does in fact NOT move, You could confirm this is the cause of the no start by manually opening throttle plates (reach inside and hold open just a very small amount and do not put fingers underneath - push the plates open - do not pull them open) then have the person inside the car attempt to start, if engine starts this is where your problem lies. (NOTE this will set another codes in the computer for the mass air flow sensor. Unfortunately a number of other things beside broken wires could cause the throttle motor to not work.

If you were about 4-5 hours closer I would drive out and help. (2-3 hours one way would be all I could do)

I hope this helps - again recheck other connectors first --
Thanks, I'm back home and ready to tackle this again.

I have included two images to make sure I am working in the correct area.

One is the wires we are discussing. The other is more about a question of checking them.
Rather than removing the wire cover to see if the wire is broken, is there a way to unplug the wire harness and see if power is going to it.
If the truck is switched on, should the harness plug inlets be hot? And if so, would they show on a test light?

Sorry, if this is way more basic than you are accustomed too. But I need to be sure of what I'm doing and at the same time I do want to be able to do it.

Thanks for your time and patience.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I feel sure the codes listed are more accurate than the warning lights, but this is what shows.

First turn of the switch after clearing, the check engine is on with a weak showing.

Turn the switch to on and the check engine light is bright, and engine logo with a down arrow in it is bright and the battery light all remain on.

I have not tried to start it again, but originally it would just spin, then fire and may catch. If it did start it sounded fuel starved, missing really badly.
 

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Did you try to observe throttle plates as ignition was turned on? and as throttle pedal was pushed down
If it moved the throttle motor and wiring is probably ok.

If it did not move you could use your test light to check the wiring at the connector you have pictured.

You WILL need to find small electrical terminals or adapters that will fit into the female connector without causing damage. Trying to force either end of the test light into the connector WILL damage the female terminal NOW or create an intermittent problem in the future that will be a pain to find.
SO DO IT RIGHT OR DON"T DO IT.
The attached picture shows something similar that you would want to do.

After you have found the proper terminals that will fit into the connector without causing any damage. Place one in the terminal with the yellow wire and the other end of the test light in the terminal with the brown wire (polarity won't matter). Then while watching the test light have someone turn the key to on. You should see a brief flash from the test light
" excerpt from service manual
12 Turn OFF the ignition.
Connect a test lamp between the 2 TAC motor circuits at the TAC motor harness connector.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF, and observe the test lamp.

Did the test lamp illuminate briefly when the ignition was turned ON?

If it does not flash - problem in wiring, connector at throttle control module, throttle control mode problem, or something else is making the throttle control module not want to open the throttle.
If light does flash most likely a bad throttle control motor - replace throttle body assembly (this is why i asked if you had throttle body replaced with a ported version or had yours ported also because of steps 5 and 6 in diagnostic steps)

I have also attached two Jpegs showing the diagnostic steps -- note they want you to use a scan tool to look a throttle position sensor voltages first. Then physically and visually check throttle. Then test wiring AND THEN use the test light to check circuit - you will be skipping steps.
The TSB was issued to save time from checking all of this first.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks. I will follow that procedure.
I have not changed the throttle body. ( I had not previously answered that)
 
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