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Genuinely SSR Obsessed
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Hey Fanatics, I've been using Meguiar's products for several years now and really (generally) prefer their stuff. They have a new product out now called Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax and I was wondering if you've tried it and what you thought of it. Is this just he newest "gimmick"? The directions sound like it is very easy to apply. Does it take the place of their Qwik Detailer?? :censored:
 

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Premium Member
2004 Slingshot Yellow
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Anything that claims protection by spraying on and rinsing off must be mostly Gimick! I'm sure it helps with drying the car after a wash as it has surfactants that sheet the water off. Many car wash products do the same thing. Ceramic Coatings are the latest fad in car finish protection so expect hundreds of new products with an "Easy Button" on them. Professional Ceramic Coatings need to be applied to new or Corrected finishes and are not something you can do at home and expect professional results. Having ceramic coating applied costs a few thousand dollars if done to a 15 year old vehicle due to the prep labor needed.
But maybe this product combined with your California Duster will keep the Black Knight more presentable!
Greg
 

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Genuinely SSR Obsessed
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8,604 Posts
Anything that claims protection by spraying on and rinsing off must be mostly Gimick! I'm sure it helps with drying the car after a wash as it has surfactants that sheet the water off. Many car wash products do the same thing. Ceramic Coatings are the latest fad in car finish protection so expect hundreds of new products with an "Easy Button" on them. Professional Ceramic Coatings need to be applied to new or Corrected finishes and are not something you can do at home and expect professional results. Having ceramic coating applied costs a few thousand dollars if done to a 15 year old vehicle due to the prep labor needed.
But maybe this product combined with your California Duster will keep the Black Knight more presentable!
Greg
================================
Thanks much my friend. I appreciate your common sense and knowledgable approach.

Sure missed seeing you at the PERMAGRIN BREAKFAST this past Saturday.

Thanks for your help in answering my question. :)
 

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10 Posts
I just use a long handle brush and soapy water. The SSR inner wells are super flimsy though and move around way too much while cleaning them so they're a little annoying, it's like they're not attached to anything at all.... :banghead

No way to do it without hurting your back unless you have a lift in your garage and take the wheels off and sit in a chair....

However if they're old and faded after you get them good and clean to your liking you can take some tire shine and rub it on them with an old cloth or what have you to make them darken up a bit if need be.

:yellow:
I use a round toilet brush to scrub the inner fenders.
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
ROTM 9/2106 - 2006 PacBlues 376 & 29
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I suspect the information is still accurate.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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6,502 Posts

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Well, after reading this topic, I realized that I made a huge number of mistakes when painting my car. I still had to contact a specialist🙁
 

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Premium Member
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145 Posts
Here are some basic Questions and Answers I ripped off my own website, hope I got permission first....:grin2:

Doesn't actually take that long to read I promise. You probably already know most of this stuff too. :wink2:


1. What is Detailing? Detailing takes on many definitions depending on whom you ask. In a nutshell, for me detailing means reconditioning each aspect of the vehicle inside and out to a better then new condition.

2. What is Paint Correction? Paint correction is a specialized, multi step, precision machine polishing process, which microscopically removes fine scratches and abrasions leaving behind a flawless, pure, beautiful paint finish.

3.Can a Deep Scratch be Removed? A general rule of thumb is if you can feel the scratch with your fingernail then it is too deep to be completely removed. However compounding and polishing the damaged area can reduce and minimize the scratch causing it to be less noticeable.

4.What is Two Bucket Washing? Two bucket washing is a specialized washing technique that traps and isolated the dirt particles in one bucket so they do not drag across the finish causing micro scratches known as swirls.

5.What are Swirls? What are commonly referred to as “swirls” or “spider webbing” are in fact micro scratches in the paint finish typically caused by improper washing and drying techniques as well as routine dust offs and wipe downs. Over time these micro scratches accumulate causing a spider web/swirl effect more easily seen in direct sun light.

6.What is a Clay Bar? The clay bar is specialized polymer abrasive clay designed to shear off and lift out contamination that has become bonded to the surface. Claying will not remove scratches.

7. What is the Difference Between a Wax and a Sealant? A traditional wax is a natural product developed typically from carnauba as well as bees wax blended with many other oils and ingredients to make it applicable for protecting your paint finish. Sealants are man made synthetic products typically using polymer, acrylic or water-based resins designed for long lasting paint protection.

8. Do I Really Need to Wax the Clear Coat? Yes, imagine your skin gets sun burned and eventually peels away. Waxing and protecting the finish is like putting on sun block lotion to keep it from burning more severely or quickly. The clear coat does some protecting of the color coat to a certain point but harmful UV rays will still penetrate and deteriorate and eventually break down the clear coat. Waxing and protecting the clear coat will provide a slight but significant barrier between environmental fall out and the sun’s UV rays allowing it to remain healthier longer.

9. How Often Should I Wax my Vehicle? This depends on how often you drive it as well as what type of protection you put on it. Generally on a daily driven vehicle if using a good Carnauba wax product I would re-wax it about every 5-7 weeks. If protecting the finish with a good synthetic sealant product I would re-seal it about every 3-4 months. On vehicles that are rarely driven and garage kept I would reapply every 6 months.

10. What Product Do You Use? I use what I feel are the best of what each brand seems to specialize in. For example some brands seem to excel at making longer lasting durable paint protection products while other brands are by far better when it comes to manufacturing the best compounds and polishes. Therefore I carry many different products and honestly just too many too list. The majority of the products I use are water based and have no petroleum's in them.

11.Can the Paint Texture be Removed? Yes. Only with wet sanding (color sanding) can the texture be re-leveled and flattened enough to remove the “orange peel” effect leaving a more mirror like quality to the finish.

Josh Ottmann of Ottmann Detailing ;)
Josh I ve had a few occasions where I ve responded to an old post and I see that this is an older post...
but I REALLY LIKE YOUR POSTS ...AND I have a couple questions that I think you’ll be able to answer...
ive been painting for a pretty long time since the early 70s, but that was the day of the lacquer clearcoats... could you possibly let me know hat you’re still educating or sharing your knowledge of the current changes ... I just need to find out if 2016 was too long ago for me to be posting....or maybe if you have a different way to get up with you... please let me know...
I see you’re of the SoCal people like Blue Streak ...are you going to Maggie Valley this year....either way please let me know so I can ask you a couple things....I seldom read anything about paint work as knowledgeable as you have posted....
i painted a lot of vehicles in the early80s and cleared with lacquer for a lonnng time at a restoration shop in Akron ohio...
need your advice on a few points...
thanks
Kenny Cruise
 

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145 Posts
Just my "two cents".........
1. Never use "ANYTHING" but a boar's hair brush with a constant flow of water when you HAVE to wash your vehicle......anything else will trap dirt and scratch the paint's finish.
2. Stay away from the mass i from the companies like Meguiar's, Mother's, etc....There are so many much better polishes, waxes, etc...out here that work much better, they will cost more but are worth it.
3. Plenty of web sites out there that explain the "how to"s" of automotive paint care and detailing.....a few are mentioned above.
4. Detailing your paint is not a one step process......those are good for "maybe" your daily driver. To do it right is at least a 4 step process at the minimum....
5. Detailing is not a cheap process.....it includes the right products and the right tools.....
I agree ...I just repainted my 05 about 4 months or so ago
i had numerous scratches and a couple parking lot dings from the previous owners neglect ...the finish wasn’t anything to brag about. As far as the roof and the covers for the panels which access the top I MASKED OFF THE ROOF PANELS FROM THE WIPERS TO THE DECK LID AFTER I HAD SANDED AND POLISHED THE FACTORY CLEAR ON THE ROOF ALSO I DIDNT REMOVE MIRRORS BUT I DID REMOVE THE LIGHTS ALL AROUND...
I took it down to factory sealer and bare metal except where the substrate wasntmetal and I prepped the whole car with high solids 2k primer blocked it down and then repainted the black basecoat and cleared the base coat with basecoat blender ( basecoat clear) sanded the clear with 600 and then top coated with a high solids clear urethane...sanded it after about a week and DA’d it with my Hutchins with 1500.. using an intermediate foam pad
cleaned and rinsed it real well and switched to 3000.trizact .wet and cleaned it all over again to reduce the chance of cross contamination between the 3000 and the 5000 trizact wet which is as far as I went ....I looked at it really well before I decided to by-pass the 1st step in the 3M system ....the initial compound with the white cap and proceeded to buff my clear with The purple bottle with the black top...with the 2sided BLACK PAD @ 1000 rpm and after I had cleaned and rinsed and dried the truck...I blew it off everywhere with my extended blow gun.... that Ingersol-Rand compressor keeps up pretty well.... for the last step I went on with the purple bottle with the blue lid...and the 3M BLUE PAD ( bothe black and the blue pad are reversible with 3Ma quick connect and dropped down to between 700 and 800 rpm.. which is as far as I’ve ever gone with a fresh paint job...
tell me this... was it a mistake to by-pass the white compound and move on to the BLACK POLISH AND ON TO THE BLUE . (. I HAVENT FOLLOWED UP WITH ANY GLAZES or products of that nature.)..
I usually go with the whole 3M system (as far as rubbing something out) and my initial cut is made with the 3M WHITE wool pad ...then i move on with foam pads..BUT THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THAT IVE USED ANYTHING FINER THAN 2500 for my final wet blocking.
would I have been possibly introducing abrasives that would have been detramental to the final finish had I started with the white... I need to find out what YOU SUGGEST AS THE FINAL PROCEDURE TO ACTUALLY FINISH THIS ?
the black and the clear look real nice... no swirls yet.. I use BarrierReef wax made out there near you guys...in HUNTINGTON BEACH but I’ve held off on waxing the truck ..
plus please tell me about the “BAGGIE TRICK ....do you pull the baggie across the paint with it wet or DRY.... to feel any contamination that may have been picked up after I machine polished it... this car is my daily driver .and I DO DRIVE IT DAILY
and please tell me what “FINAL FINISH “ product that you recommend...
I DID THE SAME THING WITH THE FACTORY FINISH ON MY PROWLER AND IT LOOKS LIKE A SHEET OF GLASS...
I firmly agree with your assessment of the multiple buckets approach...I see these guys in those 1.25 cent car washes using that FOAMBRUSH THAT WAS just 10 minutes earlier scrubbing MUD AND SAND AND PEBBLES OFF THE NEIGHBORHOOD “MUD RUNNERS 4 wheel drives...
thenks for considering a response to my questions
Kenny “CRUISE”
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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I agree ...I just repainted my 05 about 4 months or so ago
i had numerous scratches and a couple parking lot dings from the previous owners neglect ...the finish wasn’t anything to brag about............
thenks for considering a response to my questions
Kenny “CRUISE”
Wow, lots of work there Kenny. I have experience with repainting parts and a few cars in the last few years. Sounds like you should have nothing to worry about in your steps. I too have skipped a few to save time or when I thought the finish was good enough to move forward a few. I think it really boils down to, if you like the finish and there is no hazing or scratches visible to the naked eye you should be good to go. They key is to now keep it up as a daily driver. There are so so many products out there that hype how good they are, more so here in the last 10 years or so.

The baggie is to tell you when you have contaminants on the paint surface AFTER you wash it. It just makes you fingers not stick to the paint and allow you to feel the dirt a little better by gliding over the paint easier, you can do the same with a bare hand but not as well. Do it dry, you can feel the embedded dirt as you go over the paint if there is any. You can use either use clay based product to remove the particles or something similar.

I see that the Barrier Reef product is carnauba wax based. I don't know too many people that use a true wax anymore, most people now use polishes, SIO2, or a true ceramic product. Really boils down to the look you want, the time you want to spend, and the protection you want. No one product is "the best", some are just better than others for certain paint colors, local climate and storage, usage, etc...... If you are happy with what you are using, great! You might take the time to learn about other products now and then and learn about the differences between them and your current go to and see if you think you might want to try a change. Here are a few quick discussions between wax and ceramics, many more out there -
https://spraywayautomotive.com/ceramic-wax-vs-traditional-wax/
Ceramic Coating vs. Wax: Which is Better?

Currently I still use NXT 2.0 polish on my ride and The Last Coat Sio2 on the wifes car. I like them both, I think the NXT provides a deeper shine that lasts a decent amount of time, and TLC certainly goes on quickly and seems to last much longer. Due to that, I might just covert over to TLC for both cars ...... until something else catches my eye. I used to use Turtle wax, some carnaubas, Finish First (Liquid Glass), and a ton more. When I detail cars it used to take many steps, similar to sanding, but I have to say that even that area has changed immensely lately due to chemistry and development progress. Depending on the damage, I can now almost always use one product instead of many, it saves a ton of time and does an excellent job.

Hope some of that helped you.
 

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Wow, lots of work there Kenny. I have experience with repainting parts and a few cars in the last few years. Sounds like you should have nothing to worry about in your steps. I too have skipped a few to save time or when I thought the finish was good enough to move forward a few. I think it really boils down to, if you like the finish and there is no hazing or scratches visible to the naked eye you should be good to go. They key is to now keep it up as a daily driver. There are so so many products out there that hype how good they are, more so here in the last 10 years or so.

The baggie is to tell you when you have contaminants on the paint surface AFTER you wash it. It just makes you fingers not stick to the paint and allow you to feel the dirt a little better by gliding over the paint easier, you can do the same with a bare hand but not as well. Do it dry, you can feel the embedded dirt as you go over the paint if there is any. You can use either use clay based product to remove the particles or something similar.

I see that the Barrier Reef product is carnauba wax based. I don't know too many people that use a true wax anymore, most people now use polishes, SIO2, or a true ceramic product. Really boils down to the look you want, the time you want to spend, and the protection you want. No one product is "the best", some are just better than others for certain paint colors, local climate and storage, usage, etc...... If you are happy with what you are using, great! You might take the time to learn about other products now and then and learn about the differences between them and your current go to and see if you think you might want to try a change. Here are a few quick discussions between wax and ceramics, many more out there -
https://spraywayautomotive.com/ceramic-wax-vs-traditional-wax/
Ceramic Coating vs. Wax: Which is Better?

Currently I still use NXT 2.0 polish on my ride and The Last Coat Sio2 on the wifes car. I like them both, I think the NXT provides a deeper shine that lasts a decent amount of time, and TLC certainly goes on quickly and seems to last much longer. Due to that, I might just covert over to TLC for both cars ...... until something else catches my eye. I used to use Turtle wax, some carnaubas, Finish First (Liquid Glass), and a ton more. When I detail cars it used to take many steps, similar to sanding, but I have to say that even that area has changed immensely lately due to chemistry and development progress. Depending on the damage, I can now almost always use one product instead of many, it saves a ton of time and does an excellent job.

Hope some of that helped you.
Hey...Thank you so very much for responding to my questions...
from what Ibe been reading that ceramic sounds like the ticket...
I read the “BREAKDOWN ON SERVICES” that was posted... and I’m not sure that I’m clear on the offer to coat the glass and plastic and several other surfaces on the interior as well... when its mentioned that “PAINT CORRECTION“ is included in certain packages.... I’m kind off foggy as to what they mean..I have 12,164 miles on my Prowler. It had 3687 miles when I bought it from the original owner...the trailer came with it...and it HAS LESS THAN 100 miles on it including the 25 miles that I counted to cover the mileage that owner #1 towed it from HENDRICKS CHRYSLER FAYETTEVILLE NC TO ST. PAULS NC
I DONT MISTREAT MY VEHICLES BUT I DO DRIVE . THEM (obviously less often for thr Prowler)
my SSR WASNT TAKEN REALLY GOOD CARE OF ...I’m the second owner...
I found over 100losing DOG TRACK TICKETS FROM Florida in the car... he had traded it in on a VOLVO...
I DIDNT LIKE THE RUNNING BOARDS TO BEGIN WITH... AND I TOOK EM OFF THE SECOND DAYI HAD IT...
then about a year ago I decided to get them back down and i smoothed out the seams and took the rubber tread off cause it wasn’t hangin on vey well anyway
long story short “well maybe not that SHORT” but I figured I’d paint em up ( to include clearcoat) I prepped with 2k high solids primer made them real pretty and re-mounted them... and 10 minutes later,,,, off they came...just don’t like em nor does my wife I have a Moving and Storage business... so I grabbed a couple quilts and stashed em away AGAIN...
THERES A NEW MEMBER THAT WILL BE IN Maggie Valley that got hold of me and drove up from Atlanta and bought the running boards right off the bat...just last Friday
The man goes by “Joes Toys” and he sure shouldn’t be classified as “NEW” in my opinion. He flew to ”Lost Wages” ( my pseudonym for Vegas) and he drove home one NICE 05 ,supercharged , all the bells and whistles including Mike’s Fan ricochet silver and one has the boards being refinished to match his truck.
well I’ve bumped my gums at you long enough now... I have a propen to go on and on when I get a chance to converse with a person who shows that they really live like a Fanatic in a way to actually HELP ANOTHER...
THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GIVE ME THE CHANCE TO LEARN SOMETHING I NEEDED TO KNOW...
by the way where do you buy or order the TLC product from
?
thanks again
have a good evening my Friend
Kenneth Christopher Cruise
 

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Hey...Thank you so very much for responding to my questions...
from what Ibe been reading that ceramic sounds like the ticket...
I read the “BREAKDOWN ON SERVICES” that was posted... and I’m not sure that I’m clear on the offer to coat the glass and plastic and several other surfaces on the interior as well... when its mentioned that “PAINT CORRECTION“ is included in certain packages.... I’m kind off foggy as to what they mean..I have 12,164 miles on my Prowler. It had 3687 miles when I bought it from the original owner...the trailer came with it...and it HAS LESS THAN 100 miles on it including the 25 miles that I counted to cover the mileage that owner #1 towed it from HENDRICKS CHRYSLER FAYETTEVILLE NC TO ST. PAULS NC
I DONT MISTREAT MY VEHICLES BUT I DO DRIVE . THEM (obviously less often for thr Prowler)
my SSR WASNT TAKEN REALLY GOOD CARE OF ...I’m the second owner...
I found over 100losing DOG TRACK TICKETS FROM Florida in the car... he had traded it in on a VOLVO...
I DIDNT LIKE THE RUNNING BOARDS TO BEGIN WITH... AND I TOOK EM OFF THE SECOND DAYI HAD IT...
then about a year ago I decided to get them back down and i smoothed out the seams and took the rubber tread off cause it wasn’t hangin on vey well anyway
long story short “well maybe not that SHORT” but I figured I’d paint em up ( to include clearcoat) I prepped with 2k high solids primer made them real pretty and re-mounted them... and 10 minutes later,,,, off they came...just don’t like em nor does my wife I have a Moving and Storage business... so I grabbed a couple quilts and stashed em away AGAIN...
THERES A NEW MEMBER THAT WILL BE IN Maggie Valley that got hold of me and drove up from Atlanta and bought the running boards right off the bat...just last Friday
The man goes by “Joes Toys” and he sure shouldn’t be classified as “NEW” in my opinion. He flew to ”Lost Wages” ( my pseudonym for Vegas) and he drove home one NICE 05 ,supercharged , all the bells and whistles including Mike’s Fan ricochet silver and one has the boards being refinished to match his truck.
well I’ve bumped my gums at you long enough now... I have a propen to go on and on when I get a chance to converse with a person who shows that they really live like a Fanatic in a way to actually HELP ANOTHER...
THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GIVE ME THE CHANCE TO LEARN SOMETHING I NEEDED TO KNOW...
by the way where do you buy or order the TLC product from
?
thanks again
have a good evening my Friend
Kenneth Christopher Cruise
That’s PROPENSITY to yada yada yada...
I have an Apple iPad...
and I’m pretty much cyber challenged...I was born in 47...
sorry just try to overlook the errors that most people get correct... but I type with 3 fingers,,, so if you get some text from me that has quite a few words that are prefaced with the letter “p”... it’s due to my pinky finger dragging across without me knowing about it...Or it means that I forgot to PROOFREAD. IM FAMOUS FOR REPLYING TO POSTS THAT ARE 10 or 12 years old ... or older.. and still expecting a possible response ..
and you know what they call repetition of the same act and expecting a different end result yep... I’m sure you know
so like my Daddy said NOT GUILTY IS A GOOD PLEA...BUT INSANITY IS A BETTER DEFENSE...
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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I purchase the Last Coat off their website, they usually have specials if you sign up for emails and wait a week or two. While TLC is not a 100% ceramic product, it is very inexpensive, has excellent product reviews and longevity from the many Youtube and other testing done. I do not care to send my car off for a few days of a true ceramic coating and then have to pamper it when I drive or wash it. Just too costly of a process, I don't mind doing a ceramic process at home every 6 months or so.

Paint correction is basically what you already have done. They evaluate the paint to see if it needs wet sanding and or polishing to really smooth out the finish to allow for the best shine you can get. Get the dirt out with claying, sanding out the orange peel, etc. I think a lot of people that spend the money and rejoice after a professional true ceramic coating is really blinded by how the paint looks after a really good cleaning and polishing. If you spend time getting the paint correct, most anything will look good over the top of it. Most of the work is in the prep, watch all those Youtube videos about how to get all those scratches and haze out of paint. When done properly, the bare surface looks like glass without additional coatings. Protection after that is the key, there is only so much clear to work with, be careful and protect it.
 

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Premium Member
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I purchase the Last Coat off their website, they usually have specials if you sign up for emails and wait a week or two. While TLC is not a 100% ceramic product, it is very inexpensive, has excellent product reviews and longevity from the many Youtube and other testing done. I do not care to send my car off for a few days of a true ceramic coating and then have to pamper it when I drive or wash it. Just too costly of a process, I don't mind doing a ceramic process at home every 6 months or so.

Paint correction is basically what you already have done. They evaluate the paint to see if it needs wet sanding and or polishing to really smooth out the finish to allow for the best shine you can get. Get the dirt out with claying, sanding out the orange peel, etc. I think a lot of people that spend the money and rejoice after a professional true ceramic coating is really blinded by how the paint looks after a really good cleaning and polishing. If you spend time getting the paint correct, most anything will look good over the top of it. Most of the work is in the prep, watch all those Youtube videos about how to get all those scratches and haze out of paint. When done properly, the bare surface looks like glass without additional coatings. Protection after that is the key, there is only so much clear to work with, be careful and protect it.
Wow...I DIDNT realize that you can do the ceramic routine at home... but then again when you said “ do it every six months or so “AT HOME” I was under the impression that there must be some serious equipment involved to accomplish this process...
and on the other hand...being that you’re as knowledgeable about PAINT AND THE FINAL FINISH OF AUTOMOTIVE SURFACES . you are...you might just have the proper facilities to do the work yourself...
I don’t do outside work in my garage... just my own stuff.
I do a lot of airbrush work for friends and now and then a bike tank or mural on a tailgate or something ...but i found out longggg ago about having good equipment is not a reason to park “ MY OWN VEHICLES OUTSIDE IN THE WEATHER . JUST SO I CAN ACCOMADATE paintwork on a “bagger”. and trying to avoid the “DANCE YOU HAVE TO PERFORM” trying not to knock any tthing off its jig...with a hose or your own legs and feet....
I use the best that Ive been able to afford as far as tools go James.. HUTCHINS FOR PREP WORK AND Iwata Guns and airbrushes... ( my W-400) breaks down high solids clear til it almost looks like “smoke “ coming out of the air cap and nozzle... a CUSTOM MICRON -SP WHICH I purchased from Dru Blair after it had been tweaked by Dru to be even “smoother”and 2 a HP-SBS FROM Craig FRAZER at a subsequent trip to Dru‘s studio....Plus several other airbrushes ... and A small touch up gun for bike frames and larger coverage on a mural etc...( i can turn my fan down to almost a” airbrush width” fan ... there’s only the cumbersome hose in the way on certain applications ( I made a “ lead in hose from 2 airbrush hoses together for light weight work ... til I started buy ing stuff off the internet ( because of the COVID ) the I got a couple 25 ft. Airbrush hose... adjusting the air is not rocket science like you see with questions about air ptressure.......and I dont use a Harbor Freight gun for my PRIMERS AND SEALERS.... that undercoat.is as important .(if not more so,,) as every OTHER PHASE OF APPLYING PETROLEUM DISTILLATES... and I push it all with an 8hp INGERSAL-RAND COMPRESSOR ...WHICH HAS ITS OWN LITTLE SHACK WE BULIT ATACHED OUTSIED THE GARAGE. to cut down on dust and contaminates for someone that involves 10 or 12 separate pieces that have to be shot under the same conditions as each other to avoid the pitfalls that come with applying High Dollar exotic finishes like House of KOLOR Kandies and dry Pearls ... and Urethane clears...
its a crap shoot... when the weather conditions vary ...
andddddd the damn pollen never sleeps during “THE season”
I agree that the work that I’ve already done is all I need for now
plus an occasional
“ tune-up “on my Truck paint
THERES A GOOD REASON WHY Craig Frazer writes a colum in airbrush magazine and Auto Art magazine that is called “PAINT TIME” as in “PAIN TIME”
sorry I got carried away there . Thanks Railroad Man
 

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2005 Slingshot Yellow Indy Pace/Parade Truck #35
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OK...I am going to throw a wrench into this discussion. My background: Car guy. Have been for years. I am currently on the BMW International board of Directors at 8er.org. I also currently an editor of a BMW Newsletter, and past president of one of the BMW CCA Chapters. My wife and I have hosted numerous multi-state car meets. I have had the fortune of receiving multiple products and manufacturers to try. I do my own buffing, and full detailing.

What I am about to say will raise the hair on some people's necks. But...the proof is in the pudding as the old saying goes. Here is an article I wrote for the BMW Newsletter. PLEASE NOTE I HAVE NO FINANCIAL INTEREST IN ACEIT POLISH, AND PAY FOR MINE.
----------------------------------------------
Ace It – Snake Oil or a great Polish?

We’ve all been there before. You go to a car show, and there are a bunch of booths with guys selling all sorts of stuff – polish, oil, and the entire gambit of things. There is even the guy setting the hood or car door on fire to tout his brand of sealant or polish. To be honest, I have never paid much attention to any of them. Sure – the demonstration looks nice, but would you really want to set your car on fire???

So, fast forward. Two years ago, I had a guy touching up a set of wheels I have and he gave me a bottle of Ace-It, and said “Here – Try this stuff. You will be amazed!” I thought, Yeah, right, but I am not going to set my car on fire. So I took the bottle home, and did a Google Search. You, know…that internet thing that is always right? What the search revealed was a bunch of bikers that absolutely loved the stuff! There were some testimonials of car owners too. The Harley Biker Crowd said that they use it on everything – windshields, paint, chrome – just about anything and were crazy about it. So I continued my search to see what was in the stuff. Nada. Nothing….so memories of burning hoods and snake oil came to mind.

But I thought, hay – the bottle was free, so I’ll try it out on the daily driver. The guy who gave it to me promised it was an easy on and easy off application. The bottle said you could apply it in shade and in sunshine. Ok I thought – can’t beat the price so I will give it a go.

The current sealant on the car had been on a while, and was about ready for reapplication, so I thought what better way to evaluate it than on my daily driver, which is exposed to the hot Florida sun and what ever storms hit while I am at work and the car outside. My initial impression – DAMN – that stuff is shiny and slick! But – the proof is in the pudding so to speak, so how long will it last? We’ve all seen this before, but in a week it is gone!

So, on it went. It took about 30 minutes to do the entire car. When I say entire car – I mean paint, trim, glass, and headlights. The stuff is purple and has a pleasant smell. The spray bottle is easy to use and spread with a microfiber towel. Rubbing it off was also easy with a second microfiber towel. I even applied 2 coats to the hood and nose cap due to those nasty Florida Love Bug. After finishing, I stepped back, and said WOW! At least it shined as good as any product I have used in the past. And I have used a lot. The next day driving to work it rained – of course. One of those fast moving Florida showers. But – again I was impressed. Any water that hit the windshield simply flew over and off. I hardly had to use my wipers. And the beading on the paint – again very impressed. The rain just beaded up when I got to work and rolled off the paint. I thought…off to a good start, but I did just polish the thing yesterday.

Then the Love Bugs hit. For those of you who have never experienced Florida Love Bugs – just hope you never do. The things are nasty. Plus, the Love Bug Juice – that stuff that splatters on the car when you hit them – usually 2 at a time because … you know…they are doing that “Love” bug thing – well – it is very acidic and will destroy clear coats in a few days. Ace-it states that bugs wipe off easily. But had it ever enjoyed getting acquainted with Love Bugs? So out came the spray bottle, and with a quick mist and some rubbing, they came off. It was not like they just fell off, but they came off easily and did not leave any trace behind. So I thought – maybe these Biker Dudes have caught on to something.

But then, as I said when I first started trying this stuff out – the proof is in the pudding, or better put – long term performance. After my first application 2 years ago, I have to say that I continue to be impressed. Does the stuff last forever – no. But, sometimes it has been longer than I intended, but the stuff still shined. I would say that I prefer to use it every 3 – 4 months. They say it can be used more often without buildup, and I have also experienced no issues with this. Another thing that is good is that it does not leave a white film on black trim. In other words, you can just about spray it everywhere, spread it with a microfiber towel, then buff it off with a second microfiber towel with no worry of overspray.

I use it on both our Daily Drivers, and have now for 2 years. It is not on my show car BMW, because the primary reason is that I have been a die-hard Zaino user on the 8 for years, and love the Z8 Grand Finale Spray. But, I would have no issues placing on a good sealant on the 8, then using Ace-It.

In my hands, Ace-it has a great and long lasting shine. It is easily good for 3 – 4 months. It does not suffer from hazing after buildup, and leaves a smooth, slick, and shiny finish. There is no white residue on black trim, and you can use it on paint, plastic, acrylic and glass. The easiest way I have found to order it is on line, and most recently I splurged for a gallon of the stuff, which will last me quite a while. One of the negatives when reading online ordering reviews was that in the gallon size sometimes the top comes loose making a mess. That happened to me, but they gladly took care of it.

They also make a metal polish and plastic buffing compound, but I have no firsthand knowledge of either of them.

For anyone interested for more information, here is the website: AceIt Polish link.
 

·
Super Road Rocket Pilot
Joined
·
6,502 Posts
Yup, I used to be a lover of Zaino as well, it was a good product in it's day. No real down and dirty reviews for Aceit, but as a more than 10 year old product a lot has happened in the industry. The main thing is that you like it and it performs well for you. The market is overly saturated with products, I'm really surprised companies can survive with so much competition.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21 Posts
OK...I am going to throw a wrench into this discussion. My background: Car guy. Have been for years. I am currently on the BMW International board of Directors at 8er.org. I also currently an editor of a BMW Newsletter, and past president of one of the BMW CCA Chapters. My wife and I have hosted numerous multi-state car meets. I have had the fortune of receiving multiple products and manufacturers to try. I do my own buffing, and full detailing.

What I am about to say will raise the hair on some people's necks. But...the proof is in the pudding as the old saying goes. Here is an article I wrote for the BMW Newsletter. PLEASE NOTE I HAVE NO FINANCIAL INTEREST IN ACEIT POLISH, AND PAY FOR MINE.
----------------------------------------------
Ace It – Snake Oil or a great Polish?

We’ve all been there before. You go to a car show, and there are a bunch of booths with guys selling all sorts of stuff – polish, oil, and the entire gambit of things. There is even the guy setting the hood or car door on fire to tout his brand of sealant or polish. To be honest, I have never paid much attention to any of them. Sure – the demonstration looks nice, but would you really want to set your car on fire???

So, fast forward. Two years ago, I had a guy touching up a set of wheels I have and he gave me a bottle of Ace-It, and said “Here – Try this stuff. You will be amazed!” I thought, Yeah, right, but I am not going to set my car on fire. So I took the bottle home, and did a Google Search. You, know…that internet thing that is always right? What the search revealed was a bunch of bikers that absolutely loved the stuff! There were some testimonials of car owners too. The Harley Biker Crowd said that they use it on everything – windshields, paint, chrome – just about anything and were crazy about it. So I continued my search to see what was in the stuff. Nada. Nothing….so memories of burning hoods and snake oil came to mind.

But I thought, hay – the bottle was free, so I’ll try it out on the daily driver. The guy who gave it to me promised it was an easy on and easy off application. The bottle said you could apply it in shade and in sunshine. Ok I thought – can’t beat the price so I will give it a go.

The current sealant on the car had been on a while, and was about ready for reapplication, so I thought what better way to evaluate it than on my daily driver, which is exposed to the hot Florida sun and what ever storms hit while I am at work and the car outside. My initial impression – DAMN – that stuff is shiny and slick! But – the proof is in the pudding so to speak, so how long will it last? We’ve all seen this before, but in a week it is gone!

So, on it went. It took about 30 minutes to do the entire car. When I say entire car – I mean paint, trim, glass, and headlights. The stuff is purple and has a pleasant smell. The spray bottle is easy to use and spread with a microfiber towel. Rubbing it off was also easy with a second microfiber towel. I even applied 2 coats to the hood and nose cap due to those nasty Florida Love Bug. After finishing, I stepped back, and said WOW! At least it shined as good as any product I have used in the past. And I have used a lot. The next day driving to work it rained – of course. One of those fast moving Florida showers. But – again I was impressed. Any water that hit the windshield simply flew over and off. I hardly had to use my wipers. And the beading on the paint – again very impressed. The rain just beaded up when I got to work and rolled off the paint. I thought…off to a good start, but I did just polish the thing yesterday.

Then the Love Bugs hit. For those of you who have never experienced Florida Love Bugs – just hope you never do. The things are nasty. Plus, the Love Bug Juice – that stuff that splatters on the car when you hit them – usually 2 at a time because … you know…they are doing that “Love” bug thing – well – it is very acidic and will destroy clear coats in a few days. Ace-it states that bugs wipe off easily. But had it ever enjoyed getting acquainted with Love Bugs? So out came the spray bottle, and with a quick mist and some rubbing, they came off. It was not like they just fell off, but they came off easily and did not leave any trace behind. So I thought – maybe these Biker Dudes have caught on to something.

But then, as I said when I first started trying this stuff out – the proof is in the pudding, or better put – long term performance. After my first application 2 years ago, I have to say that I continue to be impressed. Does the stuff last forever – no. But, sometimes it has been longer than I intended, but the stuff still shined. I would say that I prefer to use it every 3 – 4 months. They say it can be used more often without buildup, and I have also experienced no issues with this. Another thing that is good is that it does not leave a white film on black trim. In other words, you can just about spray it everywhere, spread it with a microfiber towel, then buff it off with a second microfiber towel with no worry of overspray.

I use it on both our Daily Drivers, and have now for 2 years. It is not on my show car BMW, because the primary reason is that I have been a die-hard Zaino user on the 8 for years, and love the Z8 Grand Finale Spray. But, I would have no issues placing on a good sealant on the 8, then using Ace-It.

In my hands, Ace-it has a great and long lasting shine. It is easily good for 3 – 4 months. It does not suffer from hazing after buildup, and leaves a smooth, slick, and shiny finish. There is no white residue on black trim, and you can use it on paint, plastic, acrylic and glass. The easiest way I have found to order it is on line, and most recently I splurged for a gallon of the stuff, which will last me quite a while. One of the negatives when reading online ordering reviews was that in the gallon size sometimes the hey
OK...I am going to throw a wrench into this discussion. My background: Car guy. Have been for years. I am currently on the BMW International board of Directors at 8er.org. I also currently an editor of a BMW Newsletter, and past president of one of the BMW CCA Chapters. My wife and I have hosted numerous multi-state car meets. I have had the fortune of receiving multiple products and manufacturers to try. I do my own buffing, and full detailing.

What I am about to say will raise the hair on some people's necks. But...the proof is in the pudding as the old saying goes. Here is an article I wrote for the BMW Newsletter. PLEASE NOTE I HAVE NO FINANCIAL INTEREST IN ACEIT POLISH, AND PAY FOR MINE.
----------------------------------------------
Ace It – Snake Oil or a great Polish?

We’ve all been there before. You go to a car show, and there are a bunch of booths with guys selling all sorts of stuff – polish, oil, and the entire gambit of things. There is even the guy setting the hood or car door on fire to tout his brand of sealant or polish. To be honest, I have never paid much attention to any of them. Sure – the demonstration looks nice, but would you really want to set your car on fire???

So, fast forward. Two years ago, I had a guy touching up a set of wheels I have and he gave me a bottle of Ace-It, and said “Here – Try this stuff. You will be amazed!” I thought, Yeah, right, but I am not going to set my car on fire. So I took the bottle home, and did a Google Search. You, know…that internet thing that is always right? What the search revealed was a bunch of bikers that absolutely loved the stuff! There were some testimonials of car owners too. The Harley Biker Crowd said that they use it on everything – windshields, paint, chrome – just about anything and were crazy about it. So I continued my search to see what was in the stuff. Nada. Nothing….so memories of burning hoods and snake oil came to mind.

But I thought, hay – the bottle was free, so I’ll try it out on the daily driver. The guy who gave it to me promised it was an easy on and easy off application. The bottle said you could apply it in shade and in sunshine. Ok I thought – can’t beat the price so I will give it a go.

The current sealant on the car had been on a while, and was about ready for reapplication, so I thought what better way to evaluate it than on my daily driver, which is exposed to the hot Florida sun and what ever storms hit while I am at work and the car outside. My initial impression – DAMN – that stuff is shiny and slick! But – the proof is in the pudding so to speak, so how long will it last? We’ve all seen this before, but in a week it is gone!

So, on it went. It took about 30 minutes to do the entire car. When I say entire car – I mean paint, trim, glass, and headlights. The stuff is purple and has a pleasant smell. The spray bottle is easy to use and spread with a microfiber towel. Rubbing it off was also easy with a second microfiber towel. I even applied 2 coats to the hood and nose cap due to those nasty Florida Love Bug. After finishing, I stepped back, and said WOW! At least it shined as good as any product I have used in the past. And I have used a lot. The next day driving to work it rained – of course. One of those fast moving Florida showers. But – again I was impressed. Any water that hit the windshield simply flew over and off. I hardly had to use my wipers. And the beading on the paint – again very impressed. The rain just beaded up when I got to work and rolled off the paint. I thought…off to a good start, but I did just polish the thing yesterday.

Then the Love Bugs hit. For those of you who have never experienced Florida Love Bugs – just hope you never do. The things are nasty. Plus, the Love Bug Juice – that stuff that splatters on the car when you hit them – usually 2 at a time because … you know…they are doing that “Love” bug thing – well – it is very acidic and will destroy clear coats in a few days. Ace-it states that bugs wipe off easily. But had it ever enjoyed getting acquainted with Love Bugs? So out came the spray bottle, and with a quick mist and some rubbing, they came off. It was not like they just fell off, but they came off easily and did not leave any trace behind. So I thought – maybe these Biker Dudes have caught on to something.

But then, as I said when I first started trying this stuff out – the proof is in the pudding, or better put – long term performance. After my first application 2 years ago, I have to say that I continue to be impressed. Does the stuff last forever – no. But, sometimes it has been longer than I intended, but the stuff still shined. I would say that I prefer to use it every 3 – 4 months. They say it can be used more often without buildup, and I have also experienced no issues with this. Another thing that is good is that it does not leave a white film on black trim. In other words, you can just about spray it everywhere, spread it with a microfiber towel, then buff it off with a second microfiber towel with no worry of overspray.

I use it on both our Daily Drivers, and have now for 2 years. It is not on my show car BMW, because the primary reason is that I have been a die-hard Zaino user on the 8 for years, and love the Z8 Grand Finale Spray. But, I would have no issues placing on a good sealant on the 8, then using Ace-It.

In my hands, Ace-it has a great and long lasting shine. It is easily good for 3 – 4 months. It does not suffer from hazing after buildup, and leaves a smooth, slick, and shiny finish. There is no white residue on black trim, and you can use it on paint, plastic, acrylic and glass. The easiest way I have found to order it is on line, and most recently I splurged for a gallon of the stuff, which will last me quite a while. One of the negatives when reading online ordering reviews was that in the gallon size sometimes the top comes loose making a mess. That happened to me, but they gladly took care of it.

They also make a metal polish and plastic buffing compound, but I have no firsthand knowledge of either of them.

For anyone interested for more information, here is the website: AceIt Polish link.
top comes loose making a mess. That happened to me, but they gladly took care of it.

They also make a metal polish and plastic buffing compound, but I have no firsthand knowledge of either of them.

For anyone interested for more information, here is the website: AceIt Polish link.
Hey Brother...
I like the way you communicate ...you get to the point and that’s usually what makes someone continue to read what you have to say...
i kinda have a problem getting my point across in less than 16 paragraphs ( I try to be brief most of the time)
cause I know when I’ve reached the point of no return
kinda like RIGHT NOW ...
Hopefully you’re still reading this...those FLORIDA LOVE BUGS... are they like the bugs we call CANADIAN SOLDIERS...and some people call them MAYFLYS ... UP NORTH... THEY HATCH ALL AT ONE TIME ....at least it sure seems like there couldn’t possibly be room for ONEDAMNMORE of them to be born...
I think they’re from the bottom of the lakes and rivers and when they hatch they are so thick that if you’re driving on a street in CANADA....( or in the upper peninsula of MICHIGAN) you could very well try to employ your windshield wipers and/or use your brakes and you will literally SLIDE THRU THE STREET LIGHTS , STOP SIGNS. OR ANY OTHER OBJUCT THATS UNFORTUNATELY OUTSIDE WHEN THEY HATCH ..
THEIR BODIES ARE STACKED UP ON YOUR CAR YOUR HOUSE YOUR DRIVEWAY....ANDDAMNWHERE
THAT ISNT UNDER COVER (as in like IN A BUILDING)The lakes are covered with ’em you won’t catch a Fish or a frog or anything else that likes to eat
t bugs....CAUSE ITS AN INSTANT BUFFET FOR THEM...
NOW...let me get to.my point ...
if those love bugs are anything like the MAYFLIES ( notice I used an alternate designator to avoid offending any Canadians , you know what Imean,
hey political correctness is not my point here)
were talkin some NASTY, SLIMY REPUGNANT GOOP
and if ACE IT CAN HELP IN CLEANING IT AS WELL AS PROTECTING THE FINISH even a little bit...
I d like to score some immediately... but since I’m now residing in NORTH CACKALACKY ,and we don’t seem to have an annual invasion ( which is how it happens UP NORTH, ALL OF THIS BUG BEING BORN ROUTINE HAPPENS ALL AT ONCE... AND THENITS OVER ...and if you were headed somewhere in the GREAT WHITE NORTH TO GET SOME WALLEYE OR LAKE TROUT OR Pike or even a MUSKY I’m gonna have some drop-shipped to my Buddies that still live in SASKATOON SASKATCHEWAN ....
hey thanks for your information about ACE IT
YOU GOT YOUR POINT ACROSS in a very Positive
and PROFESSIONAL MANNER..
sure wish I had those skills ...

Kenny “Cruise”
 

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DFW TX Crew
Joined
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1,442 Posts
Discussion Starter · #199 ·
Guys since I've sold my SSR 1 1/2 years ago I don't get on the forum much anymore.

If you need to talk please text me at 214-709-0665

I don't have all the answers for sure but I'll tell you what I do know. ;)
Josh
 
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