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DFW TX Crew
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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
Hello
Has anyone heard of a product you can spray on the car immediately after washing, causing no water spots?
//Lennart
There's a million and one products out there now and I'm sure with a Google search you'll find what you're looking for.

I'm not sure about a product to spray on after washing before drying, but I do know they make De-ionized water systems for washing cars, it's takes the chemicals out of the water and runs it through your hose and it will not spot your car so you can blow dry it off or whatever.


Josh
 

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Guys, I screwed up and used windex to prep for a decal. Now the clearcoat on that spot is GONE! Any suggestions? The spot is about 3"x4".
 

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DFW TX Crew
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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Guys, I screwed up and used windex to prep for a decal. Now the clearcoat on that spot is GONE! Any suggestions? The spot is about 3"x4".
I know we talked yesterday but to reiterate, if the clear coat is truly gone, there's nothing more that can be done, it will have to be repainted.

I still feel like something's not right about it all as windex just won't do that to paint. You mentioned having a shop install the spoiler I think? any chance they might have spilled something acidic on it? IDK.

I don't want to start pointing figures without evidence but nothing else adds up.

Josh
 

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RED SLED
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Guys, I screwed up and used windex to prep for a decal. Now the clearcoat on that spot is GONE! Any suggestions? The spot is about 3"x4".
Something doesn't add up.... Windex should not do that at ALL to hardened clear coat
 

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Detailing

JoshVette: I have been looking for the right person to detail the paint on our daily driver. I don't expect perfection, but I would really like to improve it beyond what it is. Do you still do any of that work?
I apologize to everybody else if I used an improper format to ask the question. Still learning how the forum is structured. I will figure it out with some help, so feel free to correct me.
 

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DFW TX Crew
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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
JoshVette: I have been looking for the right person to detail the paint on our daily driver. I don't expect perfection, but I would really like to improve it beyond what it is. Do you still do any of that work?
I apologize to everybody else if I used an improper format to ask the question. Still learning how the forum is structured. I will figure it out with some help, so feel free to correct me.
I still do some detailing when work is a bit slow at the shop to fill in those days.

You can contact me or check out my website for pricing and such.

Dallas Car Detailing by Ottmann Detailing


Josh
 

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Genuinely SSR Obsessed
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8,604 Posts
Oh no, please don't bring up F-11..... :surprise::crying::crying:
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Absolutely agree with Josh. F11 has been "cussed and discussed" very thoroughly on this Forum. :crying:

Perhaps you might try a SEARCH and you will find tons of info on F11 and other helpful info on protecting your truck's finish. Check it out. :grin2:




==============
David :black:
images-13.jpeg - "Yeah, check it out.....NOW!!"
 

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Hey there guys and gals.
Look into Myjestic Solutions in either Raleigh or Charlotte NC for your car care products. I found them by accident when looking for a way to polish raw aluminum. I buy all my buffing and polishing products from them as well as their tire dressing that lasts the longest, and makes tires look naturally great not like you clear coated them. I just ran over my R with their swirl remover and a Porter Cable random orbital and a red foam pad. This stuff worked the best I have ever used. The only item I have found not to be what I like is their wax. They seem to stay kind of soft. I like wax that dries hard and comes off like a powder. Theirs stays soft and builds up on the micro fiber. They offer free shipping on orders over $50. Look at their metal polish too. If anyone has questions you can email me at [email protected] and I will help where I can. They also sell great micro fiber cloths, bundle prices are best.
 

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I have a couple of questions for the experts here...

1. The part of the center console that matches the exterior paint in the R I just purchased looks nice from a distance but is pretty rough to the touch due to light scratch and swirl marks.

2. It also has a nice polycarbonate windscreen but it's pretty hazy with lots of swirls, some light scratches and rub marks from the seat backs.

I've read a lot of threads/posts here and elsewhere, found a lot of products and DIY videos claiming to be "the best way" to repair these sorts of surfaces, but there seems to be little consensus. So I wanted to check with the experts here for their recommendations. I'm not expecting perfection, but would like to return things to their original smooth, glassy surface as much as I can.

TIA!
 

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DFW TX Crew
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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
I have a couple of questions for the experts here...

1. The part of the center console that matches the exterior paint in the R I just purchased looks nice from a distance but is pretty rough to the touch due to light scratch and swirl marks.

2. It also has a nice polycarbonate windscreen but it's pretty hazy with lots of swirls, some light scratches and rub marks from the seat backs.

I've read a lot of threads/posts here and elsewhere, found a lot of products and DIY videos claiming to be "the best way" to repair these sorts of surfaces, but there seems to be little consensus. So I wanted to check with the experts here for their recommendations. I'm not expecting perfection, but would like to return things to their original smooth, glassy surface as much as I can.

TIA!
I'm not sure about the windscreen but the painted center area is just painted and clear coated the same as your exterior paint so you can clean it, clay bar it, polish it as if it were the exterior paint..... cause it is. :wink2:

Posting pictures of the actual areas your talking about would be helpful as it's hard to diagnose paint based on "it's pretty rough". Is that literally rough or figuratively rough? swirls won't make a surface feel rough but it will make it look rough... if it feels rough clay bar should help smooth it out but if it's just scratched up, the polishing should help unless the scratches are too deep.
 

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I'm not sure about the windscreen but the painted center area is just painted and clear coated the same as your exterior paint so you can clean it, clay bar it, polish it as if it were the exterior paint..... cause it is. :wink2:

Posting pictures of the actual areas your talking about would be helpful as it's hard to diagnose paint based on "it's pretty rough". Is that literally rough or figuratively rough? swirls won't make a surface feel rough but it will make it look rough... if it feels rough clay bar should help smooth it out but if it's just scratched up, the polishing should help unless the scratches are too deep.
Understood about the center console. I've used clay bar on exterior paint before, but didn't know if the interior paint on the console was "special" in some way. So I'll tackle that soon.

I found a local detailer that has worked with plexiglass/polycarbonate before. I'm going to let him give it a go and see how it comes out.

Thanks very much for the advice Joshvette, truly appreciated. :grin2:
 

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SSR Believer
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A note about Dr. ColorChip touch-up paint. I used it just after we had our R detailed and just before a car show we participated in last week. In short, I can highly recommend Dr. ColorChip!

Our R had a number of typical tiny to small rock chips and a few light scratches here and there. The detailer was able to remove most of the surface scratches and all of the swirls, etc., but a few chips and scratches remained. I was apprehensive about buying the Dr. ColorChip Squirt 'n Squeegee PLUS package at about $80 shipped. I was used to paying $10 or so for the little touch-up paint bottles from the local auto parts stores. However after watching their videos and some YouTube DIYs, plus some recommendations here I decided to give it a try.

I received the package in a little over a week. The paint was as perfect a match as I could hope for. All of the application parts and pieces made the job as easy as this kind of thing can be. In a nutshell the repair is made by putting a "blob" of paint ahead of the scratch or chip and then using their soft squeegee, dragging it across the damage to fill it in. After a few minutes it dries and then you apply their "blending solution" on a special cloth they provide which breaks down the touch-up paint left outside (and I suppose inside) the chip/scratch with some soft swirling motion (not pressing down at all). Slowly the build-up melts away leaving only the touch-up paint in the chip or scratch. Repeating the same steps for deeper problem areas continually fills them in until some are level with the original paint. A much better solution than the old touch-up bottle with the tiny paint brush, drop it on and hope for the best method.

There was one problem area in particular on the passenger's side front bumper a little above the fog light where there were two semi-wide, parallel scratches about three inches long. They weren't typical scratches but fairly wide, maybe a 32nd of an inch or more and not completely contiguous as if something metal was dragged across it. The detailer said that it would need to go to a body shop for paint repair. So after fixing a couple of rock chips to a surprisingly satisfactory finish I had the confidence to tackle them. I was concerned about it working on a horizontal surface. After the first try it was somewhat better but still easy to see. I persisted and did it three more times, letting it fully dry in between (about 30 minutes) while I worked on other, smaller imperfections. Each time the result was better than the last. The paint was filling the scratches in and due to their method of "blending" the paint, not building up on the areas around them.

As we all know, paint problems are most apparent due to reflection of light. As the surface is smoothed out the damaged part reflects less light. Well, after working on those two scratches for about a couple of hours total they became almost invisible! I was truly stunned. That I was able to do it on a horizontal surface was even more surprising. If I shine a high-intensity light on the area or get on my knees and look in the bright sun I can still find them, but to the naked eye, even a foot away they are gone. My wife couldn't find them and she knew about where they were. She too was shocked. I am kicking myself for not taking before and after photos.

So long story longer, I filled in the various chips here and there, an odd "divot" in the paint on the convertible deck and even a couple of noticeable chips on the side of the passenger door. Like the problematic scratches some took two or three attempts, filling in the paint a little more each time, but in the end they are gone for all intents and purposes. I gave it a couple of days to cure and went back over all of the repaired areas with some carnauba wax to seal the deal.

Had I taken the R to a body shop and gotten it back in this condition I would have been very happy, except for the bill which would have likely been in the hundreds of dollars. I know my time is worth something as well, but being retired I no longer calculate how much. ;)

So with a little time and some practice I'm pretty sure anyone here could get as good or better results. Don't get me wrong, it's not perfect. A full-on body shop spray booth repair is in order for more serious damage. But it's darned hard to find these little (and even medium) repairs unless you know exactly where they were to begin with.

After about a dozen or so fixes I still have about 75% of the paint in the kit left. I used about 50% of the blending solution but you can buy that separately along with any of the other supplies. So I'm prepared the next time I accidentally follow a semi truck a little closer than I should. :)

I don't work for or have any interest in Dr. ColorChip but as what I think is a typical car enthusiast I can certainly attest to its effectiveness. Hopefully the repairs will last, only time will tell. But for now, wow. Color me impressed! :thumbs
 

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Caution: You can obtain good touch up results with solid colors, but high metallic like silver will give you a leopard spot result even with so-called good factory matches. It's not the paint that is the problem. It's the application. It needs to be sprayed to get even metallic distribution.

"SJA"
 

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Caution: You can obtain good touch up results with solid colors, but high metallic like silver will give you a leopard spot result even with so-called good factory matches. It's not the paint that is the problem. It's the application. It needs to be sprayed to get even metallic distribution.

"SJA"
When ordering they need your OEM paint code. Ours is Aqua Blur Metallic - 26U/WA-214M. It has a serious amount of metal flake in it.

The touch-up kit came with a little mixing tool attached to a card noting that the paint in the bottle needed to be shaken upside down for about a minute first and then the tool should be inserted to the bottom and brought to the top several times to distribute the metal flake in it and shaken once more. I followed the directions and again, even the larger repaired areas are almost invisible. For touch-up paint it's about a perfect match for our Aqua Blur Metallic.

There are several threads and posts here indicating that others were pretty satisfied with the color match as well. Not sure about silver though, can only speak for our color in this case.

Of course professional spray paint jobs are always going to be better than any touch-up. But for the small dings in life, the Dr. ColorChip product worked wonders for our R. :smile2:
 
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