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If you are wearing the inside of your front tires and your front end alignment guy says that he cannot get the setting to 0 deg. camber like Dicktator sez, you probably have worn and/or failing upper and lower control arm bushings. They are 11 to 14 years old regardless of miles. You need to replace them.

Negative camber is when the top of your wheel is pushed in, or the bottom is pushed out past vertical. As the bushing fails on the bottom control arm, the bottom of your wheel moves out. The adjustment to stand the wheel vertical (or 0 Deg. camber) is accomplished by loosening 3 big bolts on the underside of the frame and moving the forged bracket that the lower control arm is attached to.(yeah, I know, don't end a sentence with a preposition). Those 3 bolts are in slots in the forged bracket, but when the bushing is failing/worn you run out of adjustment (sliding the bracket in using the slots) and the guy says he cannot get to 0 deg.

My truck is lowered 1 1/2" in the front. It has been lowered about 3 years without any problem with the front end, no tire wear. I checked the tires before I went to the International, no problem. I checked them the other day and I had significant wear on the inside of both tires. I took it to the alignment shop, could not align to 0 deg. caster, best he could do was -1.6 deg. He said the problem was caused by lowering the truck and that I would have to raise it back up. NOT AN OPTION! I called MIKE!

Mike told me I could probably get to 0 deg. by changing the bushings. But I would not have much adjustment later. He told me what to do to increase the camber adjustment (a simple engineering fix ) if your truck is lowered.

So I ordered front and rear Prothane Bushings from Mike. I figured if the front are bad, so are the rear. Also I am off to the machine shop for that simple fix.

Long Story Short, if your truck is stock in front and you can't get to 0 deg. camber, replace with Prothane Bushings from Mike. If your truck is lowered in front and you can't get to 0 deg.camber, order the Prothane Bushings from Mike and ask him what to do to increase camber adjustment. And he said since the upper ball joints work harder on a lowered truck to replace them also. I am, with Moog.

All of the leaves have fallen off of my shade tree and the wind is blowing, so I moved inside the garage.


Jack
 
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I had a similar problem with alignment on my 2006 with the 1" front 1.6" rear drop of an Eibach spring set. Bushing wear didn't seem like the issue with less than 25000 miles on the truck.

I spoke to Tony at Norcal SS about his custom SSR upper arms from DJM, and decided that was the answer. Seeing as the front end was coming apart, I ordered the prothane bushings from Mike, and replaced the lower arm bushings with those.

Link to his thread on SSR Fanatic. http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_151261364960814&key=5d3b3992a4a32401e7cf4748f073acad&libId=javv3keo01000b1j000DAdym15kl8&loc=http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/gtsearch.php?q=norcal&v=1&out=https://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f99/custom-norcal-ss-ssr-tbss-specific-arms-68313/&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwiNrN3u7PbXAhUS3GMKHU9QBtgQFggKMAM&client=internal-uds-cse&cx=partner-pub-7865546952023728:c7euwaaepbp&usg=AOvVaw0slfqlOJNdRVxLmtZOgLGa&ref=http://www.ssrfanatic.com/&title=Chevy SSR Forum - Search Results for norcal&txt=Custom <b>NORCAL</b> SS SSR/TBSS specific a arms - Chevy SSR Forum


I didn't do an accurate measurement comparing the two but I'm comfortable saying the DJM arm moves the upper ball joint outward approximately 1/2", which provides ample room to adjust the front suspension. No problem getting to a 0 camber with the new setup.

The only downside of installing the DJM upper arms was needing to cut out an area in the gusset on the inner fenderwell to allow the arm to move without bottom out on the metal. The stock arm just clears, and the extra depth of the DJM makes the cutouts necessary.

My recommendation after doing the job is to install the DJM upper arm loosely, mark the area needing to be cut, and check occasionally to make sure the cutout is progressing as needed. Although I was told to cut 2" out of the area, I needed to increase the cutout area to a height of 3" after I bottomed out a few times with the cutout at 2"
 
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Mine seems to be lowered about 2" both front and back when measured against the "stock" height at the wheel wells per the James G. book. It was lowered when I bought it from KGB and I believe he got it that way from the first owner.

Per KGB, both he and original owner are in same Nevada/Arizona area and so with just over 20,000 miles on it, I think my return trip from Vegas to No. Carolina coast was likely the longest trip the SSR has made. I believe the tires are the originals with some reasonable wear still left.

Just took a hard look and all of them, and do not see any significant inner tire wear on the fronts. Seems to be fairly even across the treads. I will be replacing them sometime in the Spring and then get an alignment too.

I have no clue as to if the original owner made any changes to the front end for alignment purposes when it was first lowered.
 

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Thanks Jack. When I return from Afghanistan I plan to have my truck aligned and set to Dicktator's recommendations once again. It's been some time since I had this done. I noticed some bounce on my way back from National and don't believe it was fully caused by bad Louisiana roads.
 

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Alignment Specs.

Caster 4.25 +/- 0.5 Set to max and equal both sides

Cross Caster 0.0 +/- 0.3

Camber -0.5 +/- 0.5
(CHANGE CAMBER TO ZERO (0)

Toe +0.1 +/- 0.2
(CHANGE TOE TO ZERO (0)

Change Camber to 0 and change Toe to 0 to eliminate inner scuffing.


Wheel lug nut torque 110 lbs MAXIMUM

Best to do AFTER you change Plastic Radiator Support to our SSR STEEL Radiator Support.

See: Suspension / Frame


Dicktator
 
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