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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Recently had new engine installed. Everything worked fine until one day I was at a stoplight and flipped my Fog Lights on. This caused the engine to stall. I flipped the Fog Lights off and all ran well but no AC (the condenser wouldn't engage). Turned the Light switch off Auto Lights and AC worked without problem. Along with what I described my Driver Side lights and somewhat dimmer and my Left Turn signals are blinking rapidly (this sounds like a short someplace). So I'm limping along with daylight driving only. Anybody got any ideas where I should start looking? Thanks, in advance, for any help provided.
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
2006 Pacific Blue times 23198 & 21474
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Recently had new engine installed. Everything worked fine until one day I was at a stoplight and flipped my Fog Lights on. This caused the engine to stall. I flipped the Fog Lights off and all ran well but no AC (the condenser wouldn't engage). Turned the Light switch off Auto Lights and AC worked without problem. Along with what I described my Driver Side lights and somewhat dimmer and my Left Turn signals are blinking rapidly (this sounds like a short someplace). So I'm limping along with daylight driving only. Anybody got any ideas where I should start looking? Thanks, in advance, for any help provided.
I think I would start with a long talk with the engine installer and see what was changed in the wiring harness, and why?
 
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Anytime you see "weird" items going on in your electrical system you need to check the grounds. Sounds like the grounds were compromised between the body and the battery, and the engine and the frame / body. Should be a simple fix.
 

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Daily Driver
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You're right there Andy, a lot of folks look at grounds like they are just the dump after the electricity has been used. That's sort of right, but what happens when your sewer backs up? Lots of shlt you don't want.
 

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Got similar stuff going on with my house. Lights acting up, microwave going nuts... Contractor said... bad grounds.
 

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Daily Driver
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♫ Will the circle be unbroken
♪ By and by, lord, by and by
♫ There's a better home a-waiting
♪ In the sky, lord, in the sky

The ground is part of the circle.
 

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There are a few possibilities that come to mind on this one........ Here’s my best guesses in order of likelihood:

1) Engine-to-chassis ground at the bottom front of the engine did not get connected.

2) Loose connection at the battery.

3) Body and chassis ground connection between the right rear wheel and the right tail light is loose.

It’s easy to diagnose the ground issue...... connect a digital voltmeter between the alternator bracket (forward outboard corner marked “GND”) and chassis ground lug near the windshield washer bottle on the inside fender. Should not be any voltage difference with the engine running and various electrical loads....... You might see a few millivolts with high current usage, but nothing significant.

Let us know what you find.

Regards,

Mike
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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There are a few possibilities that come to mind on this one........ Here’s my best guesses in order of likelihood:

1) Engine-to-chassis ground at the bottom front of the engine did not get connected.

2) Loose connection at the battery.

3) Body and chassis ground connection between the right rear wheel and the right tail light is loose.

It’s easy to diagnose the ground issue...... connect a digital voltmeter between the alternator bracket (forward outboard corner marked “GND”) and chassis ground lug near the windshield washer bottle on the inside fender. Should not be any voltage difference with the engine running and various electrical loads....... You might see a few millivolts with high current usage, but nothing significant.

Let us know what you find.

Regards,

Mike

Here are some pictures of Grounds.

SSR How to Library has Grounds information also.

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

1. Body/Frame Negative Battery Grounds, behind rear tire passengers side.
2. Frame Ground Negative Battery Cable.
3. ECM Ground.
4. Ground/Wiring Diagrams
5. Ground/Wiring Diagrams


Dicktator
 

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There are a few possibilities that come to mind on this one........ Here’s my best guesses in order of likelihood:

It’s easy to diagnose the ground issue...... connect a digital voltmeter between the alternator bracket (forward outboard corner marked “GND”) and chassis ground lug near the windshield washer bottle on the inside fender. Should not be any voltage difference with the engine running and various electrical loads....... You might see a few millivolts with high current usage, but nothing significant.

Let us know what you find.

Regards,

Mike
I agree with all that mention bad ground -- and Mike's diagnostic technique for an bad ground, specifically engine to chassis ground.
However I don't believe that is where you are have a ground issue otherwise it would effect alternator output and possible cranking speed.

I looked this up a few years back for a fanatic that had a stalling problem when AC was turned on, and driver's side lights acting funny. All which occurred shortly after having a supercharger installed.

The driver's side lights, AC clutch relay and fuel pump relay all ground at G100 (#13 in the diagram) and is shown as located at the bottom left side of engine block.
To check with a meter you would need to BACK PROBE (you CANNOT disconnect the connector) ground wire on one of your lights with one lead of meter and connect the other lead to the alternator ground as Mike mentioned. With the lights on you should read less than about .2 -.5 volts --- anything higher shows you have a bad ground for the lights.

To try and explain what is happening: The circuits are working somewhat by finding an alternative path to ground through the other "shared" ground wires until you try to use those ground wires as an actual ground by turning those circuits on! Example -- fuel pump relay cannot find a ground so some of the electrons travel though the ground wire of the headlight, then thru the headlight filament across the headlight power wire then over to the passenger side headlight and uses its ground while other electrons are doing the same thing though the other lights. This actually provides enough of a ground to energize the relay, UNTIL the power wire has current and the electrons cannot use it to find a ground though the lights on the other side. Now that circuit can't find an alternative path it works in a diminished capacity, if at all. This could also cause a slight glow in the other lights - you might notice the driver's side marker lights have a slight glow to them when turned off with engine running
We call this "Back feeding"

Sorry for the long winded reply - its raining and so I am doing school work from home computer and the teacher side of me kind of took over.

Best of luck and let us know what you find
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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Thank you Mark!!

As you said to me in Maggie Valley, "Don't mess with Multiplex wiring" unless you really know what you are doing, funny Ed Borland says the same thing.

Grounds are SO important to complete circuit for the Data Link.

Dicktator

1 Data Link aka Comunication Link
2. Under dash drivers side
3. Data Link Comb (What is a comb?)
4. Lots of fun looking for which module has bad Ground or Connection.
 

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Yes I'm the one having a issue with driver side turn signals blinking fast when lights are and blinking normal when they are off. Very interested in your findings.
 

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I am probably the last guy that should be commenting on this but I am learning"a little" as I go along
I am experiencing a Relay problem, but think I have it narrowed down to one faulty relay.

I think I am sort of piggybacking on Autoprof
What I would do, which is probably the easiest thing to try (I love easy!)

In the fuse box, Mini fuse #11 is Fuel Pump - #12 is fog lamps.
It seems #12 started the problem
Try swapping #12 and say #22 - Horn (just make sure you swap 15 amp for 15 amp)

It will only take 5 minutes to try this - but it is really a bit of a guess
If it doesn't work, crawl around for a couple hours finding the grounds
 

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Damn u all are all over this. Good job ?. Also don’t rule out loose power wires as well take a good long look at everything around the engine and you might even have to raise it up and craw underneath. Also as a past shop older I would’ve been more than happy to have done all that for you and I’m sure whoever you had do the work may as well if you just mentioned to him your having some issues maybe there something loose. Believe me he sees that all the time. I could always tell by who had worked on it what possible mistakes they could’ve made.
 
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