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Discussion Starter #1
My indoor flapper motor seems to be broken as outlined in the technical data sheet. The fellow guesstimates the job will require pulling the dash and AC coil. Is that true? He estimates a 2k bill for this job?
Part #
ACDelco 15-72794/1572794 HVAC Air Inlet Door Actuator
This look bad. Anything else to replace if the dash needs to come out?
Live in Las Vegas any recommendations who would attempt this?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Has anybody tried this?
The HVAC door calibration must be performed after a HVAC door DTC has been repaired or a HVAC door actuator has been replaced. Refer to the following procedure:

1. Turn OFF the ignition
2. Press and Hold the following HVAC control module switches:
  • A/C Request switch
  • Recirculation switch
  • Rear Defrost switch
3. While depressing the switches turn the ignition to the RUN position.
4. Wait 5 seconds
5. Press the Recirculation switch
6. Observe the A/C Request switch LED and the Rear Defrost switch LED. The LEDs will flash slowly to indicate calibration mode.
7. When the calibration is complete, the LEDs will flash quickly.
8. Turn OFF the ignition.
9. Restart the truck, place the recirculate switch in both positions to see if the problem still occurs.
 

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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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Has anybody tried this?
The HVAC door calibration must be performed after a HVAC door DTC has been repaired or a HVAC door actuator has been replaced. Refer to the following procedure:

1. Turn OFF the ignition
2. Press and Hold the following HVAC control module switches:
  • A/C Request switch
  • Recirculation switch
  • Rear Defrost switch
3. While depressing the switches turn the ignition to the RUN position.
4. Wait 5 seconds
5. Press the Recirculation switch
6. Observe the A/C Request switch LED and the Rear Defrost switch LED. The LEDs will flash slowly to indicate calibration mode.
7. When the calibration is complete, the LEDs will flash quickly.
8. Turn OFF the ignition.
9. Restart the truck, place the recirculate switch in both positions to see if the problem still occurs.
You are spot on....... This has saved many SSRs.... but sadly, not all.

A number of SSR owners have also learned to live with a failing actuator. Some have found that leaving the fan on “1” keeps things OK. Others have found that leaving the air selection in fresh air (not using recirculate) to give relief..... but sadly, not all....

Thanks for posting highrider
 

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You can certainly attempt to recalibrate the door with that procedure or just remove power to the truck by removing the battery cable or pulling a fuse. Every time power is removed, the doors perform a self calibrate routine. All the problems I have incountered are the result of a plastic tooth on the gear being broken, and the door starts flapping because it is trying to close and it never can due to the missing tooth. Recalibrating will not help this problem. Motor thumping happens when the (blend door) recirculate or fresh air is selected correct? There are 3 motors in the system, the air is the most common failure but I have replaced the other as well. The other 2 are not hard to get to.

Yes, the book way to repair it is to remove the dash, quite expensive, and the $2000 bill is not out of line.

I and a few other members have replaced that motor without removing the dash. It is VERY tight in there due to the motor that the recirculate motor is about a 1/4 inch from the fender wall. Getting your hands and tools in there can be hard, but not impossible if you take your time and are good with thinking about alternative solutions on the fly when you get stuck. You'll need a 5.5 mm wrench, maybe a really thin one that has ratchet capability. There are only 2 screws holding in the motor, the front one is not hard to remove, the rear one is hard. Some trucks seem to have smaller room than others and I have had to unscrew the rear one as far as I could and then snap it off. No worries, there is a plastic positioning pin in the bolt pattern for the motor that will help hold the motor in place, so just reinstalling the single screw is like having 2 in there. I have not had an issue doing this.

Lastly, you can just remove the plug or cut the wire to the motor so that it does not move any more or add a switch inline with the wire to control it on and off You will just need to decide on if you want it in the fresh air or recirculate position before you cut the wire because it will stay in that position for the future. If you take out the glovebox, there is a cable bundle just behind the airbag large metal plate. There is a pink with white stripe wire there, if you cut that one you can stop the signal to the motor.






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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Guys, I unfortunately will need to have the motor replaced, I did the recalib 2x last night to no avail. I guess the best way to look at this is I have owned the car since new and the only issue was replacing the inside door handle , a couple of batteries and 1 set of tires. ( The car only has 15k on the clock) So my overall maintenance costs are still pretty fair even with this kick in the pants ( lol)
I just hope when they reassemble, it comes out with no rattles
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Well today, as someone explained, I just left the unit on recirc air and everything else worked fine. So until an opportunity time comes up will I live with that.
Went for a 200 mile ride today, and didn't change the air switch and the flapper stayed stationary for that position. I will get the part to have on hand for down the road.
 

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Well today, as someone explained, I just left the unit on recirc air and everything else worked fine. So until an opportunity time comes up will I live with that.
Went for a 200 mile ride today, and didn't change the air switch and the flapper stayed stationary for that position. I will get the part to have on hand for down the road.
It is a shame to do all this just because a cog on a cheap gear. But it is what it is.

Dave
 

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'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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Well today, as someone explained, I just left the unit on recirc air and everything else worked fine. So until an opportunity time comes up will I live with that.
Went for a 200 mile ride today, and didn't change the air switch and the flapper stayed stationary for that position. I will get the part to have on hand for down the road.
I keep all our cars on recirculate. To me it's just like in the house, recirculating the air for efficiency. You would never hook your AC/Furnace return duct to suck in outside air !!! :cool: Just saying---

Nick
 

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It is not a motor, it is actuator.

Four of us spent 4 hours trying to change actuator, ended up just unplugging actuator and putting "flapper" door in one position and leaving it.

Some have been successful, like Mike aka Dragon2U but we just gave up because of location.

Oh, it is 5.5mm socket or wrench for actuator bolt.

Dicktator
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It is not a motor, it is actuator.

Four of us spent 4 hours trying to change actuator, ended up just unplugging actuator and putting "flapper" door in one position and leaving it.

Some have been successful, like Mike aka Dragon2U but we just gave up because of location.

Oh, it is 5.5mm socket or wrench for actuator bolt.

Dicktator
Thank You
 

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My indoor flapper motor seems to be broken as outlined in the technical data sheet. The fellow guesstimates the job will require pulling the dash and AC coil. Is that true? He estimates a 2k bill for this job?
Part #
ACDelco 15-72794/1572794 HVAC Air Inlet Door Actuator
This look bad. Anything else to replace if the dash needs to come out?
Live in Las Vegas any recommendations who would attempt this?
Thanks
I did this myself. It took about 16 hours. I had owned a body shop in the 80s. Had all of the tools. Pulled the seats, pulled the steering column and removed the whole dashboard. There is one bolt that goes through the firewall at the top center. You will have to remove the nut from the engine side. The little motor has a plastic gear inside that cracked and the motor would continue to turn and it just had a clicking noise in the recirculating position. After replacing the motor, putting the dashboard back in
and recharging the A / C and getting it all back together, it lasted about 60 days and started doing it again. I put it in the recirculating mode and cut the pink wire. If I decide to do it again, I will order the motor and take it apart and have a gear made out of aluminum or brass.
Its a tough job but I’m really anal about having everything working as it should.
Hope this helps.
Good luck
 

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I did this myself. It took about 16 hours. I had owned a body shop in the 80s. Had all of the tools. Pulled the seats, pulled the steering column and removed the whole dashboard. There is one bolt that goes through the firewall at the top center. You will have to remove the nut from the engine side. The little motor has a plastic gear inside that cracked and the motor would continue to turn and it just had a clicking noise in the recirculating position. After replacing the motor, putting the dashboard back in
and recharging the A / C and getting it all back together, it lasted about 60 days and started doing it again. I put it in the recirculating mode and cut the pink wire. If I decide to do it again, I will order the motor and take it apart and have a gear made out of aluminum or brass.
Its a tough job but I’m really anal about having everything working as it should.
Hope this helps.
Good luck
All that work, only to have it fail again on you. I'd probably sit there and go through a box of Kleenex.

Dave
 

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Seriously! Like my 05’ Escalade with leaking heater core. Spend 50K + on something and a $5 part ruined the world.
please!
 
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