[ssrsp]

Install cargo light-wiring
I have a 2003 SSR and would like to put a cargo light in the truck bed. There is a wire by the left hindge and a plug on the end of it. Numbers 0 32 1 Amp and 206434-1 are on the end of the plug.
Can I just order a cargo light and wiring harness to hook up to this plug? I don't know what else this would be for.
Trying to get out of the dark!

 

[yellow bear]

You have a highly sought after connector there! It appears that you don't have the factory dome light. It would have come with the ' carpet kit' for the upper trunk lid. There is a 'second half" of that connector which has a separate circuit board to operate the cargo light, it is part of the liner. You'll be making some changes there to adapt what you have there.....

 

[jackatg450]

adding cargo light

I would recommend adding LEDs down both sides just above the rails, using this switch that RiverRat recommended EZ Switch Electrical Accessory On Orr & Orr, Inc. and tying into the hot wire to the plug next to the top right tailgate. I would also wire in a 1 amp inline fuse next to the plug.

Jack

 

[SSR290]

Bed Light Connector

:smile2:
While searching today, I came across what appears to be the Plug and Base Receptacle for the BED LIGHT.



Plug: 206434-1 - AMP - TE CONNECTIVITY - Circular Connector, CPC Series 2, Cable Mount Plug, 8 Contacts, Thermoplastic Body | Newark element14

Receptacle: 206433-1 - AMP - TE CONNECTIVITY - Circular Connector, CPC Series 2, Panel Mount Receptacle, 8 Contacts, Thermoplastic Body | Newark element14


This may help somebody repair a damaged or melted connection.

If you look on the technical data sheet it gives you info on the Pin Connectors.
Not sure if the 20-DF or 20-DM are the ones to use.


:|:|

 

[ED in FL]

The Cargo Bay Light Cable/Connector you found in your "R" has a very high failure rate.
Go to the Rear Fuse Box and remove fuse #40 - in your case it is a 15 amp fuse.
The fuse does not blow when the connector fails.
The Body Control Module controls all lighting and limits the amount of fault current in this circuit.

A standard factory light draws 1.3 amps - so a 2 amp fuse will work fine.
A LED light draws less than 1 amp - so a 1 amp fuse will work fine.

The Orange wire is the HOT +12 Volts from the BCM
The Black wire is a permanent ground.
The Red/Black wire is a switched ground that is grounded when the Cargo Bay Cover is unlatched.
You can identify these using a VOM.

The parts listed by SSR290 will be a big help to those who had connector failures.

Go to the "HOW TO LIBRARY", Bed Light Fix for more info.

 

[jackatg450]

First of all.......

First of all I guess we should have asked if your truck has the "carpeted" cover on the underneath side of the bed lid. If not you would be much better off going with a strip of LEDs.

Jack

 

[river_rat]

Correct part numbers were posted in the thread linked below several years ago. See post 31.

http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/cargo-cover-elec-connection-92818/

The circuit board is nothing more than a relay board. If you don't have the carpeted bed and want to use the factory wiring harness, you could use the cable end version of the female Amphenol connector instead of PC mount and hardwire the single version of the relay inline (GM only used one side of the dual relay) and wrap it in a larger piece of heat shrink. With a single LED cargo light, the relay is really overkill but does isolate the LED.

 

[Dicktator]

Here it is:

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5&id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!938&parId=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&o=OneUp

Dicktator