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A couple of weeks ago I posted that I had gotten a Wester tune at Brian Koontz's place in Dallas (search using "Wester" on this board). I also mentioned that although the throttle response and smooooothness of the engine had improved a lot as a result, I could not do fuel mileage checking as the weather here in Austin has been VERY hot and VERY humid. Well, the weather has subsided a bit, and so I got a chance yesterday to do sokme formal testing, and the results are GREAT!

I did the fuel mileage testing using the same precise methodology as I have used on all previous fuel mileage testing. THat procedure involves multiple 3-mile segments in two opposing directions on divided rolling highway, to ensure accuracy and real world applicability. To get the details on that procedure, do a search earlier threads using "fuel mileage" and "gas mileage".

To refresh everyone quickly on the history of my 04 SSR:

With stock gearing, it was getting 22.8 mpg at 60 mph.

In February 2005, with 4.56 gearing, it was getting 21.1, a loss of 7.4% due to the gearing change.

In testing on 5-27-05, after instalaltion of the Supermaxx headers and true dual exhaust and Rush filter, and dyno tuning for best power, it averaged 19.6 mpg.

In testing on 6-02-05, after a PCM reflash by Reese Cox at MTI Racing, that refined A/F ratio and improved throttle response, it delivered 22.6 mpg - basically restoring the original fuel mileage, despite now having both more power AND the stiffer 4.56 gearing.

In August, just before the SSR Homecoming, Reese and his crew at MTI installed the MTI answer to the LS6 cam, Z06 valvetrain, double timing chain, and 25% underdrive engine balancer pulley (to compensate for the 22% stiffer 4.56 gearing that increased engine accessory speeds). Power increase rather dramatically from 273 hp at the rear wheels to 331 hp at the rear wheels. So, now my SSR is delivering 35% more power than stock (it was around 245 before the original Lamar Walden dyno tune follwoing the gear swap), and I probaby should not expect "great" fuel mileage.

But, I am getting it anyway.

My testing yesterday shows an average of 20.8 mpg at 60 mph, under less than ideal early morning Austin conditions that started at 68 degrees / 62 degree Dew Point / 81% humidity, and changed to 79 degrees / 62 degree Dew Point / 58% humidity within an hour.

Now we can speculate all day on how much of the great fuel mileage is due to Reese's tuning done on an actual dyno, and how much is due to Lyndon Wester's remote programming, and I have NOT yet done a mileage test with Reese's tune in there instead of Lyndon's (you can NOT just quickly reflash and re-test - the fuel tables need as much as 200 miles to fully stabilize).

However, Wester's tune made my SSR's engine notably smoother and stronger at lower revs, and we now know that the fuel mileage is impressively good, especially considering the huge increase in power! Some instrumented performance testing done right after the mileage testing shows that the 30 to 90 mph time is now 2.14 seconds quicker than it was with only the gearing change and original dyno tune. (Yes, my 04 SSR is now in total about 3.7 seconds quicker 0 to 90 than it was when stock, even with a "granny" start)

All this conforms for me that a Wester tune is a great idea from every perspective, and so I recommend getting one!

Jim G
 

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Jim,

Now that you have gotten all this done, what is your 0-60 time now?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looking4anSSR: I really don't have ACCURATE 0 to 60 or 1/4 mile times for the following reasons:

- Since I have to do a lot of testing to get data for the book, and don't want to fry my tranny, I do NOT preload the torque converter for a proper "racing" start like a magazine road tester or dragracer would use. I simply disable traction control, shut off the AC, stage the G-Tech RR, take my foot off the brake, and smoothly depress the gas pedal. This keeps the wear and tear on the transmission and entire driveline sensible, and even more importantly ensures that all the G-Tech data is ACCURATE (wheelspin or any sideways motion or jerks destroy the accuracy of the data - Unilke the more sophisticated Veypor unit on my test motorcycle, the G-Tech does not intelligently compare accelerometer-deduced speed to actual measured drive wheel speed and use the CORRECT one). You simply cannot get an accurate 0 to 60 or 1/4 mile under these restraints.

- Doing quarter mile testing on a public street is unacceptable when the 1/4 mile speed is going to be about 100 mph, from both a safety perspective and the difference in traffic fines and insurance surcharges between "20 mph over" and "reckless driving". My test areas are posted at 70. I need to do a lot of testing, so trips to the drag strip each time are logistically impossible. Furthermore, by the time the drag strips open for the day here in Texas, the temperature in the summer is already 90 to 100 degrees, with high humidity, and testing under those conditions is a waste of time, as the high underhood temperatures of the SSR give you ONE pass, and even that one will be awful due to hot air ingestion.

- The heavy weight of the SSR, coupled with the very low true stall speed on the torque converter (reputed to be 1600 rpm when measured accurately), makes quick starts a joke unless you are willing to abuse the torque converter and the brakes. The SSR needs a troque converter with at LEAST a 2400 rpm true stall speed (NOT "flash" stall or "brake" stall speed) if you want to be "competitive", but that higher stall speed has other tradeoffs too. More info my book on this.

The above restraints result in a really humorous 60 foot time = 30 mph time that WAS around 2.24 seconds, but WORSENED to 2.31 to 2.37 seconds after we souped up the engine with the cam (You evidently lose some power at rpm below the 2500 minimum that the dyno allows you to apply WOT at). Remarkably, I am amazingly consistent with this "granny" technique (Looks like 0.06 second variance between runs), but also VERY slow.

This is why I only talk about 30 to 90 mph times. Those I can measure accurately. Anything below, I can't measure accurately, and anything above I am unwilling to measure anywhere outside of a dragstrip.

My quarter mile time with current gearing would be not that wonderful anyway. My souped up 5.3 liter now makes peak power from 5900 to 6500 rpm, which even with my 4.56 gearing means 113 to 124 mph. Realistically, I should be hitting about 100 mph in the 1/4 mile if I use proper technique, so for best results, I should be regearing to 5.15 gears if I want to go racing! :)

But, that would mean 2484 rpm at 60 mph, and even more ringing from the silly thin gauge aluminum driveshaft we all have and love.

For what it's worth, my current 30 to 90 mph time is 9.86 seconds.

My 0 to 60, including the retarded 0 to 30 result, is 6.02 seconds.

Some comparisons, using data from media road tests:

The zero to 90 mph time for a stock 04 is about 15.9, and that's with a proper dragracing start technique. Even with the retarded 0 to 30 time included, my time to 90 mph is 12.2 seconds.

Stock 60 to 80 mph for an 04, per Autoweek magazine, is 6.0 seconds. Mine is 3.75 seconds.

All my numbers are also with 1/2 to 2/3 tank of fuel aboard, and a 235 pound driver, both of which have a significant impact on results.

I'm not building a dragracer (No one in his right mind builds a drag racer starting with a 4700 lb weight penalty!).

The engine sure feels good in normal driving. :)

Jim G
 

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Ok.....didn't expect a book....oh wait I did ask Jim a question :lol :lol

I use a G-Tech and I just move my foot off the brake and jam the gas. I only do 0-60 because I don't want to be flying by a cop at 100 for the 1/4 mile either.

I guess I just wanted a comparison of yours and mine (which currently runs 6.3). I just want to do mods that get me from 0 to the speed limit as quick as possible. :) Since you are not building yours for a faster 0-60 it would not be a fair comparison.

I will be using the Predator this weekend to see what more I can get out of mine.

Later,
John :seeya
 

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tuning

Hey Jim, I live in Maryland and I see Westers is in Texas, How do they accopmplish the flash? Do you buy a handheld or send in your computer?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
53wanab: Wester has dealers all over the U.S. Brian Koontz in Texas is just ONE of Lyndon Wester's dealers. There are more. Call Lyndon Wester at
1-888-WESTER1 (888-937-8371)

There are multiple ways to et the reflashing done, depending on what model year of SSR you have, etc.


Jim G
 
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