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2004 SSR. Can not remove key. Restart a few times and key will sometime come out other times no. Throwing code P2761, P0758, P0740, P0785, P0753. Runs and shifts perfect. Ignition switch changed 3 years ago. Could this be a bad ignition switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I let SSR sit for two weeks while I had heart surgery Battey ran down. Put battey tender on it and truck started fine. Wife drove to work check engine light came showing above codes. Jiggled shift handle and key came out. Wife drove it today and key came out first time. Restarted and could not remove key. Drove around yard and key came out.
 

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If your battery is low the Key will not come out I think is correct too
I think I agree with this analogy. The key will get stuck with a low battery. Sounds like if there is a battery tender on it or a long drive it is okay but short distance or sitting in garage is an issue. If battery is over 4 years old I would swap it out or at least have it tested properly. If it tests good then start more troubleshooting.
 

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:agree I agree weak battery or loose connection on the battery cables !!!!!!!!
 

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I have been reading all of the IGN SWITCH posts for over 3 years. Burnt connections in the switch seems to be the problem????????? I assume why the switch [was] changed and up graded........IMWO It is starting the truck with less than proper current???? I keep a very inexpensive meter in the Cig. socket. Meter sells on ebay and other sites for $4 to $6 dollars and also has an inside temp guage in [C]. If the gauge reads less than 12 volts I charge the battery before starting the truck. A bad ground could also make a low voltage problem? You really want the meter to read 12.5 or higher......? Most of the time the truck is hooked up to a tender.......The trucks will probably start down to aprox.......10 + volts........But I think that is what is damaging the IGN. switches????????? I also have a 2002 Chey Avalanche. Aprox the same set-up. The truck is still on the original switch. I keep one of the inexpensive meters in the Avalanche. Much easier to buy the inexpensive meter than have the problem and keep changing Ign. Switches..........

BIRD............Old but not done yet?
 

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Meter

I have been reading all of the IGN SWITCH posts for over 3 years. Burnt connections in the switch seems to be the problem????????? I assume why the switch [was] changed and up graded........IMWO It is starting the truck with less than proper current???? I keep a very inexpensive meter in the Cig. socket. Meter sells on ebay and other sites for $4 to $6 dollars and also has an inside temp guage in [C]. If the gauge reads less than 12 volts I charge the battery before starting the truck. A bad ground could also make a low voltage problem? You really want the meter to read 12.5 or higher......? Most of the time the truck is hooked up to a tender.......The trucks will probably start down to aprox.......10 + volts........But I think that is what is damaging the IGN. switches????????? I also have a 2002 Chey Avalanche. Aprox the same set-up. The truck is still on the original switch. I keep one of the inexpensive meters in the Avalanche. Much easier to buy the inexpensive meter than have the problem and keep changing Ign. Switches..........

BIRD............Old but not done yet?
Bird, the meter sounds like a great idea....could we get a little more info....nomenclature...thx...an ole grunt
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Checked voltage of battery, it is 12.5. Would trying to start when the battey was dead damaged the ignitation switch. I installed a ignitation switch 3 years ago when I put in a new battery.
 

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After checking the usual ground connections ( frame rail near battery, also corrosion at battery terminals), and the one under driver door(on frame rail) , I would have the battery tested (cca,ca, state of health) and look into getting another ignition switch.
Time, you say 3 years, really has nothing to do with the switch. How often it was cycled, and what current was feeding it, over that period, may have burned the contacts inside.
These codes it has seem to follow poor voltage to the TCM. Ignition switch is cheap enough to change and rule out as culprit.( I know, I know, it sounds like a parts changer statement and not a clinical diagnostic procedure).
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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Ignition switch MUST see 9volts for everything to work properly. EVERYTHING goes thru ignition switch.

I change battery/ignition switch every 4 yrs if I need to or not.

Once battery runs down, yes, can and usually does cause damage to switch.

Like said above, check grounds, change switch and I would put in NEW battery.

SSR How to Library: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator

1. FIVE points on switch, like our old distributor points that "Burn", we would file, gap and try again.
2. Make sure switch has one WHITE cover. A/C DELCO D1426D There are CHEAP switches out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks to all fo the information. I have a 24 year old Engeering student coming over tomorrow to change it out. I had heart surgery three weeks ago and my doctor will not even let me sit in the car. Lost a lot of weight but I can not recommend heart surgery as a diet. What I do recommend is life line screening to prevent heart attacks as these bypasses are not fun.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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Thanks to all fo the information. I have a 24 year old Engeering student coming over tomorrow to change it out. I had heart surgery three weeks ago and my doctor will not even let me sit in the car. Lost a lot of weight but I can not recommend heart surgery as a diet. What I do recommend is life line screening to prevent heart attacks as these bypasses are not fun.
I am going in for Open Heart Surgery soon. If we ever get paper work done.

Calcified Valve but Heart is very strong and is not laboring.

They caught it early.

Dicktator
 

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I am going in for Open Heart Surgery soon. If we ever get paper work done.

Calcified Valve but Heart is very strong and is not laboring.

They caught it early.

Dicktator
Ice cream and Capt' Jack , good for the ticker.
 
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