Chevy SSR Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I need you guys help. I have a 2005 SSR, It has been a great car and I have did alot of the updates to keep her going. This week end I jumped in and I had no response turning my key, I then moved the tilt wheel down and it started up and was able to get it home and into the garage, BUT, the top will not go up, the key will not come out of the ignition and it will not start again. (No response when I turn the key) When I move the tilt wheel up and down I here a clicking sound and the lights on the dash go on and off. Is it my ignition switch? It was replaced 3 years ago and I put a fresh battery in this spring, (I did not replace the ground cable, it looked fine) Any help would be much appreciated, THANKS

TeeDub
 

·
One of the SoCal Nuts
Joined
·
28,398 Posts
I need you guys help. I have a 2005 SSR, It has been a great car and I have did alot of the updates to keep her going. This week end I jumped in and I had no response turning my key, I then moved the tilt wheel down and it started up and was able to get it home and into the garage, BUT, the top will not go up, the key will not come out of the ignition and it will not start again. (No response when I turn the key) When I move the tilt wheel up and down I here a clicking sound and the lights on the dash go on and off. Is it my ignition switch? It was replaced 3 years ago and I put a fresh battery in this spring, (I did not replace the ground cable, it looked fine) Any help would be much appreciated, THANKS

TeeDub
If it will not start and it will not give you the key then it is a voltage issue. I would start with the ignition switch connector since it seems to be affected by the tilt wheel. It might also be a bad wire in the steering column that makes and breaks as you move the column. Good luck. Maybe @Autoprof will check in and give some suggestions.
 

·
HobbyBob
Joined
·
641 Posts
It could be the dreaded ignition switch, but now you have to troubleshoot the system for the short that brought your battery down. Good luck.
 

·
Supporting SSR Hobbyist
Joined
·
10,072 Posts
Check your battery voltage.... I’ll bet it is really low...... in fact, I’ll bet its so low that you cant get the headlights to turn on either.

If you have a dead battery, you will NOT be able to rotate the key to the “off” position and remove the key from the ignition switch. I suggest that you hook up a battery charger and give it a few minutes to bring the battery back up to a “normal” voltage range. The key should then be able to rotate all the way to the off position and be removed.

Once you have your truck back to an “operational” status, you can troubleshoot the parasitic drain.

Regards,

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
battery volts are 12.6, headlights do come on but key will not turn back to come out. when I tilt steering wheel up and down dash lights go on and off (like I am cycling the key but I am not)

TeeDub
 

·
SSR Pit Crew
Joined
·
12,669 Posts
battery volts are 12.6, headlights do come on but key will not turn back to come out. when I tilt steering wheel up and down dash lights go on and off (like I am cycling the key but I am not)

TeeDub
To remove Key ANYTIME drop lower half of steering column, below key, brass "button" push, KEY comes out!

Ignitions switch should be changed, R is 13yrs old and probably has not been changed from the defective OEM switches with BLACK covers. Switch MUST see 9 volts for everything to work right!

New ACDelco Switch D1426D will have one GREY cover and one BLACK cover.

Go to SSR How to Library look up IGNITION SWITCH.

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5


Dicktator
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
It does seem like something maybe something happening inside the ignition switch
Does anything else appear to come on while moving steering wheel - radio? try turning on wipers -- shut ign off leaving wipers on
see if they also move as the dash lights come on -- they are fed from Ignition circuit A - hot in ACC and run along with an input to BCM. If yes defiantly in switch or switch wiring.
If no I would still check for possible ign circuit A or E being powered up with steering column movement.
This can be done using a volt meter at rear fuse box. Black lead to known good ground. Confirm by testing fuses 31 and 33 red lead at the top of ether side of the fuse with key in accessory position. Once you read 12 volts with key on acc turn key off while maintaining connections with meter -- then move steering column while watch meter --- if reading flashes on problem in switch of wiring
circuit A. To repeat for circuit E use meter at fuses 47 or 50 of rear fuse using same procedure.

Attached is a rear fuse box chart I put together for this type of test procedure. (i.e. checking the ignition switch for voltage outputs)

I also attached a under hood fuse box reference as this is where you could test other outputs of the ignition switch.

Sorry a little blurry - tried to resize to fit limit
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
As a thought sitting in a boring meeting.
I not sure how it could effect key not coming out. But, I also realized your voltmeter May be too slow to pick up the problem. Try the same procedure using a 12 volt test light while looking for bulb to flicker. Again check your ground connection first by checking the light comes on when key is turned on or at other fuses.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
As a thought sitting in a boring meeting.
I not sure how it could effect key not coming out. But, I also realized your voltmeter May be too slow to pick up the problem. Try the same procedure using a 12 volt test light while looking for bulb to flicker. Again check your ground connection first by checking the light comes on when key is turned on or at other fuses.
Ok so I figured out why it will effect key coming out of ignition. This also leads me to believe the ignition switch or wiring seems to be the most likely the culprit.
Previous post I mentioned that circuit E from Ignition switch feeds fuse 47. Well looking at wiring diagram, fuse 47 provides power to the ignition lock cylinder actuator though the park lock switch. So by tilting the steering column you are opening and closing the power feed to the lock actuator causing it to energize and de-energize. This is the clicking in the column.

Bottom line -- do what blue streak mentioned in the first place -- inspect ignition switch connector and wiring - if ok replace switch.

Best of luck - let us know how you make out or what you find.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I installed a new ignition switch and ALL is well, thank you guys for your comments and help. I am going to do as many have suggested and keep a new one (ignition switch) on board along with the few tools and instructions it takes to change it. The help I have received from this forum and the knowledge I have gained from reading others posts have been PRICELESS, Thanks again!!

TeeDub
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
I installed a new ignition switch and ALL is well, thank you guys for your comments and help. I am going to do as many have suggested and keep a new one (ignition switch) on board along with the few tools and instructions it takes to change it. The help I have received from this forum and the knowledge I have gained from reading others posts have been PRICELESS, Thanks again!!

TeeDub
Great job :banana

Thanks for letting us know what solved your problem!

Its PERMA GRIM time again! :party
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top