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2006 SSR
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
Fairly new member, we bought our 2006 SSR last year (46K miles) and since been reading all the outstanding information on here. You all have a Great site and community here and I really appreciate being a member! Recently I've had an intermittent problem. The ABS light, Brake light, Traction Control ight, Service Brake System message (and dinging), speedometer goes dead, top stops working, and car goes into limp mode. I've read the numerous articles and so far have cleaned the EBCM and engine grounds, and replaced the negative battery cable. I pulled the ECM fuse to reset and car runs for awhile, maybe 20 to 30 miles before it all happens again, so I took the car to O'Reilly's to get the codes read. The codes thrown are Left Rear Wheel Sensor Signal Missing, Erratic Wheel Sensor Signal, and Lost Communication with Transmission Control module codes. I've seen a lot of posts pointing to the EBCM, but I was going to try and replace the left rear wheel sensor first. The problem is, although a left rear wheel sensor is listed in the parts store, I don't see anything on the rear hubs that look like a sensor. The only sensor I can find is the "VSS" sensor at the right rear of the transmission. The parts store lists both the "VSS" sensor and left and right rear wheel sensors for my 2006, although the service manual only shows the one on the transmission. My initial question is; Are there left and right rear wheel sensors on my 2006? For the life of me, I can't find them. Hopefully someone can help with locating the left and right rear wheel sensors. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Pete
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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No sensors at wheels for the rear, only at the transmission.

Do these errors happen all at once or are they not really connected to one another and all random? Sounds like you are saying everything happens at once?




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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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The SSR is a three sensor system. Left front, right front and transmission sensors. No individual rear wheel sensors. This goes along with the ABS and braking system..... it is a three line system. Left front, right front and rear (Both are teed together) lines.

If you have a top that stops working and the instrument cluster goes dead, you may have a failing 125 amp fuse in the engine fuse box. It’s a known problem and really simple to replace.

This does not preclude the possibility of a bad EBCM. I actually think you have a couple problems happening at the same time. You will need to sort them out, one by one. The secret to it all is a good diagnostician.

Regards,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Mike! I was concerned/confused as the GM Parts Store and O'reilly lists both the transmission and rear wheel sensors. I'll be heading to Oreilly's this morning to pick up the VSS sensor. Hopefully this simple fix will cure the "light show".
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Thanks Mike! I was concerned/confused as the GM Parts Store and O'reilly lists both the transmission and rear wheel sensors. I'll be heading to Oreilly's this morning to pick up the VSS sensor. Hopefully this simple fix will cure the "light show".
Replace the 125 amp fuse first. Eliminate that confusion. The transmission sensor is a low probability failure. Don’t remember the last time we saw one....
 

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If you find that you are getting EBCM failures that turn on all the brake system lights....... Dragon2U is extremely good at re-soldering the relays on the EBCM circuit board and getting all that settled down.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you find that you are getting EBCM failures that turn on all the brake system lights....... Dragon2U is extremely good at re-soldering the relays on the EBCM circuit board and getting all that settled down.

Mike
That will be my next step. The EBCM and connectors look good. Looks like it might have been changed out (probably no re-soldered) previously since it is pretty shiny and clean.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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With all those symptoms at once, as Mike in AZ stated (y), the 125 amp main fuse under the hood is suspect. To verify, check your door locks or marker lights to see if they are working when you have the problem.

They are all tied to the 125 amp fuse as well. But..... it could be you have low but not total loss of the 125 amp supply that only affects sensitive components, just something that might assist the troubleshooting. Good luck!
 

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ALL great advice from Mike and Mike. Also snug (do not overtighten) the bolts holding rear fuse panel together.
 

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I had a similar issue and turned out it was the Transmission Control Module (TCM). In addition to the very same indications you list, I had the DIC indicate the transmission shifting from "D" to "P" on its own with the vehicle moving and the door locks jump up/down on their own when the DIC indicated "P". Cost me $600 ($240 for new TCM / $310 labor / $50 misc fees/taxes). The TCM has to be coded to the SSR, not just a swap-out part.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I replaced the rear wheel sensor and the 125 amp fuse. I was able to drive 30 miles until all the ABS, Brakes, TC, speedometer, limp mode started again (also the transmission indicator shows in 1st gear). I did notice that my voltmeter sometimes drops from around 14.5 to 13 for a few seconds every so often. It is something I hadn't noticed until recently when it got hot out and had the A/C fan on high. When the volts drop to 13, the fan speed slows, until the voltmeter jumps back up. Could this be an alternator issue causing havoc? Another thing that happened today was while I was on the highway and right before all the lights came on, it sounded like the doors locked and unlocked. Never did that before! One final interesting thing happened today. Normally to clear the lights and limp mode I would have to pull the ECM fuse to get everything back to normal. Today, after 5 miles of limping along, everything went back to normal; no warning lights, speedo started working and the truck had full power. Another 3 miles later, and back to limp mode with warning lights. RIght before I got back home (around another 5 miels) truck was back to normal. This is getting weirder. Any additional help/insight is greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had a similar issue and turned out it was the Transmission Control Module (TCM). In addition to the very same indications you list, I had the DIC indicate the transmission shifting from "D" to "P" on its own with the vehicle moving and the door locks jump up/down on their own when the DIC indicated "P". Cost me $600 ($240 for new TCM / $310 labor / $50 misc fees/taxes). The TCM has to be coded to the SSR, not just a swap-out part.
Hi Carl, How did you determine it was the TCM?
 

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With doors locking it sound like @carlbush is right on money. i think @tennesseecozydog had similar with his old SSR.and someone else more recently, but i don't think he every reported back.
I would bet there is a U code for TCM. But you may slso have to monitior TCM inputs/outputs while driving. NOTE some "code readers" like at Advance may not be able to read this.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
With doors locking it sound like @carlbush is right on money. i think @tennesseecozydog had similar with his old SSR.and someone else more recently, but i don't think he every reported back.
I would bet there is a U code for TCM. But you may slso have to monitior TCM inputs/outputs while driving. NOTE some "code readers" like at Advance may not be able to read this.
Yes, I did get a U0101 code "Lost Communication with Transmission Control Module". I also got the "Left rear wheel speed sensor code. Figured a bad wheel sensor would throw a transmission code, but no joy. New sensor, same problems.
 

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Yes, I did get a U0101 code "Lost Communication with Transmission Control Module". I also got the "Left rear wheel speed sensor code. Figured a bad wheel sensor would throw a transmission code, but no joy. New sensor, same problems.
Now that i reread your orginal post i see that.
You Need to check power and ground at TCM, if ok replace TCM. Must be programmed for your vehicle.
Replacement doesn't seem too difficult. May be places that preprogram with VIN.
Others will chime in.
 

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Now that i reread your orginal post i see that.
You Need to check power and ground at TCM, if ok replace TCM. Must be programmed for your vehicle.
Replacement doesn't seem too difficult. May be places that preprogram with VIN.
Others will chime in.
:unsure:

"You Need to check power and ground at TCM, if ok replace TCM. Must be programmed for your vehicle. "

WHY..........must the TCM need to be programmed to work with the car/truck. :oops:
 
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