[howfisher]

My SSR is new to me so I don't want to break anything when I check for no parking lights or side lights. So, how do I remove the headlight switch to check it.
One more thing, I would love to get access to a silver icon of the aggressive SSR that I see on some threads. Is that possible?:silver:

 

[Dinerman]

Well you're in luck... there are some great SSR Fanatics in Florida that can help you and will most likely chime in. I would check the fuse box behind the passenger seat. Just wait some good help is coming.

 

[howfisher]

Dinerman, I think you are right. I have already checked all the fuses and bulbs. I think it has to be a connector or loose wire. So, I want to start at the switch.

 

[BlueStreak]

Dinerman, I think you are right. I have already checked all the fuses and bulbs. I think it has to be a connector or loose wire. So, I want to start at the switch.

The side markers are accessible from the back. You should be able to unplug the fixture and see if there is power there when you turn the switch on. The parking lights in the front require the removal of the spear across the front but in the rear they are accessible from the back. All should come on if you turn the switch to the parking light or headlight position. Sorry I cannot help you get the switch out.

 

[Autoprof]

Typically the lights in front are called park lights.
Do the taillights work?

This information could help rule out possible problems.
How did you determine fuses are good?

Visually, voltmeter or test light?

I am sorry if I seem picky, but knowing this information can be a valuable clue. I don't mean to insult anyone, I am just making sure we understand the entire situation.

 

[Autoprof]

More information.
Rear fuse box shows 4 fuses for park lights. Check with voltmeter or test light to good ground with headlight switch on. Headlight switch activates the relay that supplies power to fuses, switch does not directly supply power to lights.
No power at any the of fuses problem could be headlight switch OR parklight relay. Parklight relay Should be the same as defrost relay. If you are sure rear defrost works -- swap relays. Easier than testing switch. (Could be switch)

Power on only one side of a fuse indicates a blown fuse.( if any fuse has power - SWITCH not at fault)

Power on both sides all fuse indicates further problems.(again switch not at fault)

I need to know results from this post along with previous post before I could provide more information.

If you don't have a voltmeter or test light and front and rear lights don't work.
Swap relays and respond with these results also. But please indicate if you have the test equipment. It will vary how I can help.

 

[Foodman]

could a lose ground wire cause this problem

 

[howfisher]

Hi and thanks to all of you. I checked all the fuses with an ohmmeter. Every park light front and rear(taillights) and side lights do not work. The dash lights do go on and adjust. I just need to know how to remove the headlight switch, so I can start to check the problem from the source.
Thanks,
Howie

 

[howfisher]

Autoprof---I did not know they have a relay for park lights. So, I obviously did not check that. I think you got it! I can't look at it until tomorrow afternoon. But I still would like to know how to remove the headlight switch.
Thanks again,
Howie

 

[Mike in AZ]

To remove the headlight switch, you need to:

Pull the small satin/chrome trim part above the switch. This is done by slipping a smooth or soft prying device under it and pulling straight out. Small plastic pry bar or even a Popsicle stick will work.
Remove the screws that you find under the trim and that hold the bottom of the panel onto the dash. They take a 7mm socket. This should let the small panel come "loose".... You will then have to pull the panel away from the joint under the steering column. It is not hard fastened, but is typically caught in the alignment tabs.
Once the panel is loose, you can unplug the switch assembly and then take the panel and switch to the workbench where you can unscrew the fasteners (7mm hex) that hold it into the panel.

Regards,

Mike

 

[ED in FL]

My SSR is new to me so I don't want to break anything when I check for no parking lights or side lights. So, how do I remove the headlight switch to check it.
One more thing, I would love to get access to a silver icon of the aggressive SSR that I see on some threads. Is that possible?:silver:

If you are having an issue with parking or side lights - removing the Headlight Switch is not going help.
The Body Control Module controls all lighting. The headlight Switch is just gives inputs to the Body Control Module
Go to the rear fuse box, remove the outer and inner covers, tighten the 3 bolts that hold the electrical connectors in place - I have seen loose connector bolts cause the issue you have.

 

[howfisher]

Thank you again Autoprof. The problem was the relay. In this case the relay was missing entirely. I swapped in the defogger relay below it and everything worked. You guys are fantastic. And Mike in Az. gave me the process for removing the switch, that I will someday need. If you were here I would hug each of you, and I am not a hugger. Anyway, keep up the good work, and God bless.
Thank you so much,
Howie
P.S. What about that cartoon SSR (silver) I really need one to jazz up stationery, cards, this page ect. That is the coolest way to portray these trucks.

 

[Dicktator]

Thank you again Autoprof. The problem was the relay. In this case the relay was missing entirely. I swapped in the defogger relay below it and everything worked. You guys are fantastic. And Mike in Az. gave me the process for removing the switch, that I will someday need. If you were here I would hug each of you, and I am not a hugger. Anyway, keep up the good work, and God bless.
Thank you so much,
Howie
P.S. What about that cartoon SSR (silver) I really need one to jazz up stationery, cards, this page ect. That is the coolest way to portray these trucks.

Glad you got it fixed. Ed Borland aka ED in Fl is our electric Guru.

You could have dropped down to Dicktator's, put Tech2 on and save a lot of time.

Welcome to Florida Chapter, 180 strong.

Here is some reading: SSR How to Library now 83 presentations.

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator
cell 727-460-6038

 

[Autoprof]

Howfisher
I glad you got it fixed -- I would still follow Eds advised to prevent future problems -- tighten screws but not too tight.

I would also recommend you start testing fuses with your meter set on voltage instead of ohms. Testing fuses with a test light or voltmeter is quicker, more accurate and provides more information than using an ohmmeter or visually.
See the following You tube for more information https://youtu.be/gKgmIcmp7eo

Dictator and Ed are also correct that the headlight switch provides a command signal to BCM which then grounds relay -- In your case the tech 2 would have been able to retrieve a code B2585 -- Prk light relay control circuit malfunction.

Enjoy - you live in a region of a lot of assistance and year round top down driving ( I can handle the heat but, not the snow or the below 0 wind chill )

Once again -
Welcome to the site

 

[xoxoxoBruce]

If you were here I would hug each of you, and I am not a hugger.

Refreshing beverages are an acceptable hug substitute when you do run into them, and you will, after all you're family.:cheers

 

[howfisher]

Bruce, your truck color combination is my favorite, I think. I need to see it in person for sure.

 

[xoxoxoBruce]

Some day you probably will, lord willing and the creek don't rise. :thumbs