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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to buy my first SSR and am curious if there are any red flags to watch out for when buying?
I did drop the top (25* in Green Bay) and drove it back to the dealership which was about 5 miles away. I liked that the wind buffeting wasn't bad at all compared to Ragtop Corvettes.
I am currently looking at an 03. Besides being a 5.3 are there any problems associated with the first year?
 

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Slingshot Rules!
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WELCOME, Hippy . . . from Southern Arizona

Slingshot Yellow = the Fastest and Sexiest SSR.

! :cheers ! :00000732: ! :cheers ! :00000732: ! :cheers !​
 

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2005 aqua blurr
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Welcome hippie from Fountain Colorado
If this is a low-mileage car check the tires because of the age if their original they should be replaced good time to have the dealer replace as part of the deal
 

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"Hip" you've just got to put your big boy pants on and don't look back. You know you're lookin' at a 15 year old vehicle. Now keep in mind a big percentage of SSR's have been taken care of by mature individuals. What's the CarFax say ... how many owners and where are they or what region of the country do they live in. Even the 06's are teenager's as some of them are 13 year's old. Several things to look at ... "Tars" Engine Maintenance, Paint, Interior, Cargo area, Curb Rash on the Rims, Dings on the Front, Runnin' Boards. Hey as they say "go over it with a fine tooth comb" but ... keep in mind the are one fun vehicle to have fun in !!! Like I said you just got say "I'll take it" and don't look back. tennesseecozydog :ssr
 

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BAD BOW TIE
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03 and 04 Have a 5.3 Liter engine which is equivilent to a 327.
May have door panel problems.
A prop rod that holds up the hood.
A few other small things.

05 and 06 Have a 6.0 Liter Corvette LS2 engine. About 100 horse more.
Gas struts hold hood up.
A few other improvements. Both are good.

Others may chime in here.
Welcome from Sunny Sturgis South Dakota and good luck.




Some things to look for.

1. Is the vehicle still for sale?
2. How long have you had it?
3. What is the mileage on the vehicle?
4. The exterior color?
5. How many previous owners?
6. Is it a non smokers car?
7. Does it have a good CarFax report?
8. No accidents, floods, body damage?
9. Everything works good and it runs good with no apparent problems?
10. Was it serviced properly?
11. Good tires?
12. Steers good, doesn't pull?
13. Good brakes?
14. Any extended warranty?
15. No rips or tears in interior?
16. No paint scratches or dents or nicks or chips?
17. Top goes up and down good?
18. Air conditioning, lights, wipers, all work good?
19. No apparent problems with the car, engine, transmission, rear-end, etc.?
20. Does it have a clear title?
21. Kelly Blue Book lists cars as, FAIR< GOOD<VERY GOOD< and EXCELLENT. Which category best describes this vehicle?
22. Does the CarFax have a buy back guarantee if it is not as advertized?
23. Is an extended warranty available?

What is you very best price for a quick, no trade-in, no hassle deal?
 

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I think private owner R’s are a safer bet, especially the Fanatic owned R. Members of the SSRFanatics usually keep up to date on important maintenance and modifications. Lots of sorry buyers of some R’s because they did not know what they were looking at or the cost to repair/replace parts.

OLDxR
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
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Welcome form one of the SoCal Nuts. Just in case you did not know because you are new to the site, that red print in Post #2 is a link to another post. You really should look at it seriously. It is a bargain.
 
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Auggie pretty much covered it all.
1) I would first check the top. Make sure it works properly and see if it falls the final couple inches. Will need lift struts if it does. Not a big thing but another $100.
2)How does the bed cover lift and stay up? Again lift struts and you guessed it another 100.
3)Drive it and check the heat and AC system do the vents have all the flaps in place? These are common problems.
4)And by trying the heat ac system see if the actuators are making noise. This can be frustrating and expensive if you have to pay someone else to fix them.
5) Wheels check them over closely if they are scraped on the edges they can be repaired fairly easily if they are satin. I checked with a company that does it for the dealers and it was 150 per wheel.
6) Check the seats work all the functions front back up down and the HEATERS. Again the can be fixed. Look at the covers for wear. My truck has higher miles but the seats look like new.
7) Look at the cooling fan. That should have been replaced by now if not it should be high on priority list.
8) Visual inspect all the suspension, check bushings and struts and shocks for leaking. Mine needs front struts so I took that for a reason to lower it while I have it apart.
9) Look at the windshield. If it is cracked or rock chipped keep in mind they are not cheap for a factory original and some of the aftermarket don't fit well.
10) If it is at a dealer and has been raining or is going to in the next couple of days go back after it has rained and check the floor boards for wetness and open the roof compartment so just the lid is up then stop opening and go look in the roof well is it wet in there?
11) Look at all the seals around the roof and bed cover. Some of these are no longer available new. Make sure they are still flexible and no rips or tears.
12) Look at the side glass for scratches in the glass. Open both doors several times to see windows are indexing properly.
13) Where did it spend its life at and how was it driven? Was it a Midwest truck where they use road salt but never driven in the snow. Salt has a habit or eating up the fuel and brake lines on mid west vehicles.

While this sounds like a lot and may scare some people away, keep in mind this is a unique vehicle and it has things other trucks don't. Like a convertible top. They are fun to drive and draw attention. If you like to tinker then they can be easy to find one with some of these things needing attention and buy it right and fix them as you go along. Look around and compare prices, options and upgrades.

Also one other thing to keep in mind and it is what got me to buy my truck. If you wanted to build a hot hotrod with similar options like an LS engine over drive transmission and good brakes you will spend more than what you would pay for an SSR.
 

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03 and 04 Have a 5.3 Liter engine which is equivilent to a 327.
May have door panel problems.
A prop rod that holds up the hood.
A few other small things.

05 and 06 Have a 6.0 Liter Corvette LS2 engine. About 100 horse more.
Great response @ Auggie Doggie. Covered the bases well.

Was interested in your comment that 03 and 04's may have door panel problems. Sorry for hijacking the thread, but could you elaborate?

Know that I can't get my hand on the electric seat switches with the doors closed on our 2004, but is there something else meant by your comment?

Thanks



Ken, Vancouver Island
 

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I have an 04 with the 5.3. Don't shy away from one because of the 5.3 engine. They can easily be made to run quite well and are considerably less $$ than an 05 or 06.

No issues with door panels. Just a tight fit to get your hand down to adjust seat. Simple solution... adjust seat with door open.

As with any 15 year old vehicle, condition is everything. You'll never know the whole story on any any vehicle so just pick the best one you can within your price range and enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was looking for specifics that plague these cars, if any. I'm not worried about buying a used car, I've owned plenty over the years. As far as the 5.3, I thought it was a bit of a pooch but I really just want it for work. So far there aren't any replies that bother me, I do my own work so labor is cheap, and the stuff listed is pretty minor. I would put it on a dyno though and tune it just to squeeze what I can out of the 5.3.
I have a C6 ragtop that I plan to keep so I don't need the 6.0L 05/6 SSR.

Thanks for the replies.
 

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'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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hippy, I would say check the ones for sale on this site. The few issues and UPGRADES most likely have been taken care of!!
Welcome from Forney Texas!!! BUT-----Consider going to "Tools" in the red banner, click on "User CP" go to "Your Profile" then click "Edit Your Details". Then, whenever you "post" it will show in the left column under your name, like the rest of us, and we will know where you are and what you drive. Then if you have a problem, someone close by might be able to help out. Someone might also me you and have a "show and tell" of the upgrades suggested!

Nick & Kathy
 

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BAD BOW TIE
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Great response @ Auggie Doggie. Covered the bases well.

Was interested in your comment that 03 and 04's may have door panel problems. Sorry for hijacking the thread, but could you elaborate?

Know that I can't get my hand on the electric seat switches with the doors closed on our 2004, but is there something else meant by your comment?

Thanks



Ken, Vancouver Island
The hand thing is one thing I was talking about but also if the truck was in very hot climate for extended period of times the door skin can come loose and wrinkle which an upholstry shop can repair. Another thing I missed was the wiper blades and squirters are not as good as the newer ones but that can be converted also.
 
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ONE OWNER !!!!
2004 Smokin' Asphalt #11150
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Welcome From Western Pa !!!!!!!!!! :00000732: Good luck with your search, I have a 5.3 with a tune and very satisfied with it. :grin2:
 

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hippy ... let me tell one thing, you have received some very excellent advice from some great SSRfanatics who even after you purchase your SSR will be more than willing to advise you on any problems you might have. Dictator in Florida knows more than the engineers who designed the SSR, Mike in AZ is another excellent advisor as is Dragon2U. Can't them all but I can assure these guys are among the best.

Auggie Doggie's post is really great ... hats of to the "A D" in Sunny Sturgis, South Dakota !!! tennesseecozydog :ssr
 

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I think private owner R’s are a safer bet, especially the Fanatic owned R. Members of the SSRFanatics usually keep up to date on important maintenance and modifications. Lots of sorry buyers of some R’s because they did not know what they were looking at or the cost to repair/replace parts.

OLDxR
Very well stated "oldie" ... take note hippy !!! tennesseecozydog :ssr
 

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Ex SoCal Nut
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Welcome to the Family!
I agree with the above thoughts about windshield wiper arms. The '03-'04 had an oblong "squirter" attachment which is going to self destruct. It's Plastic, afterall. The '05-'06 had an "improved" squirter. Both of them are No Longer Available, from the dealer. Suggest the change be "Very Careful" and just change the rubber Insert and Not the Whole Blade Assy, No matter what year.... The seat adjuster button clearance changed with the '05 year. They made the door panel thinner (for hand clearance) and Shorter, front to back. '03-'04, you HAD to Adjust the Seat Before closing the door, the '05/06, you could get a fatter paw in there with the door closed. Check for a "clicking" noise after turning off the ignition switch. That May be a $2,000 out of pocket fix. Possibly the re-circulate door actuator, a known pain to change out.
 
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