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SSR Pit Crew
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Discussion Starter #1
I was at Sinister Kustoms, in Plant,City i.e. Lonnie's Garage on Wed.

Changed oil, 8,567 miles, I run Amsoil and larger oil filter.
(K&N HP-2006 for 5.3 engine any Advance Auto).

Changed brake pads, although they still had about 20K left on them.

Also lowered rear by changing springs. Dropped rear two inches and raised my chin spoiler about 1/2". Now I have 5" clearance on the chin/curb feeler!

I really like the look but it does ride more firm then it did, must be stiffer spring.

Dicktator
Pictures
1. New "Lowering Spring".
2. Have to cut down stop bumper
3. Replace shorter bumper
4. Sits level
5. Other view.
 

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I like the look of the rear being lowered, as well. I did mine a year or so ago and have long lost that difference in the ride feeling. It may just be that the springs 'settle out' after a short while, too. And, best of all, my chin spoiler is less likely to be peeled away when I hit those parking stops.

Don't forget to adjust the headlights!
 

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I was at Sinister Kustoms, in Plant,City i.e. Lonnie's Garage on Wed.

Changed oil, 8,567 miles, I run Amsoil and larger oil filter.
(K&N HP-2006 for 5.3 engine any Advance Auto).

Changed brake pads, although they still had about 20K left on them.

Also lowered rear by changing springs. Dropped rear two inches and raised my chin spoiler about 1/2". Now I have 5" clearance on the chin/curb feeler!

I really like the look but it does ride more firm then it did, must be stiffer spring.

Dicktator
Pictures
1. New "Lowering Spring".
2. Have to cut down stop bumper
3. Replace shorter bumper
4. Sits level
5. Other view.
Great pictures Dick, did you use Eibach springs?
 

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I thought that replacing the brake pads was easy until I had trouble getting those little springs on top of the pads back in place. I ended up calling for emergency assistance (again) from my gearhead neighbor. What are they for and are they necessary?

P.S. Changing the rear springs is so easy that even I did it without assistance. The fronts required professional assistance.



Brake Pads.

Picture.
1. Remove calipers
2. Depress wheel cylinders
3. New pad
 

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I was at Sinister Kustoms, in Plant,City i.e. Lonnie's Garage on Wed.

Changed oil, 8,567 miles, I run Amsoil and larger oil filter.
(K&N HP-2006 for 5.3 engine any Advance Auto).

Changed brake pads, although they still had about 20K left on them.

Also lowered rear by changing springs. Dropped rear two inches and raised my chin spoiler about 1/2". Now I have 5" clearance on the chin/curb feeler!

I really like the look but it does ride more firm then it did, must be stiffer spring.

Dicktator
Pictures
1. New "Lowering Spring".
2. Have to cut down stop bumper
3. Replace shorter bumper
4. Sits level
5. Other view.
Where exactly did you cut the bump stop Dick. I'm getting ready to do mine next week and don't want to cut it wrong. Thanks
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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Discussion Starter #10
Where exactly did you cut the bump stop Dick. I'm getting ready to do mine next week and don't want to cut it wrong. Thanks
Cut it right here. Just under Lonnie's finger, so it looks like it did only one ring gone.

The first ring, make sure it is flat like the top.

Dicktator
 

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Cut it right here. Just under Lonnie's finger, so it looks like it did only one ring gone.

The first ring, make sure it is flat like the top.

Dicktator
I was hoping that you had taken a picture of that view, and you did'nt let us down. Your "THE MAN" Dick.
 

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Hey Dicktator, now all you need is some hotchkis anti sway bars and a cross new 4 bolt box cross member. I put on eon mine and it took all the cowl shake out when the top is down.Really stiffens things up.
 

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Where exactly did you cut the bump stop Dick. I'm getting ready to do mine next week and don't want to cut it wrong. Thanks
The bump stop has three lobes. You will be removing the top lobe to create the same shape on the second lobe. This will let the second lobe grip into the frame holder just like before. Good photos Dick.

Be sure to get a fresh front end alignment and re-adjust your headlights and foglights after the change. It's amazing what that rear spring change does up front.

Regards,

Mike
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Hey Dicktator, now all you need is some hotchkis anti sway bars and a cross new 4 bolt box cross member. I put on eon mine and it took all the cowl shake out when the top is down.Really stiffens things up.
Your back a long way on my R.

I have Steel Radiator Support, Frame Stiffener, LC32 Cross Brace and channel crossbar.

My R is REAL tight!!

1. Mike's Steel/Powder Coated Radiator Support (Recommended for ALL SSR)
2. Mike's Frame Stiffener, really improves handling and takes the small squeaks, rattles out.
3. Joe DeLano's LC32 for the ultimate in handling.
4. Channel Cross Member (Trailblazer)
5. All the flimsy and Heavy "Stuff" I dropped off my SSR.

Dickatator
 

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