Lowering an SSR?
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Mike in AZ is working on a replacement system.
Otherwise, see if Ground Force has anything available. They were the other major supplier for SSR lowering springs.
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363 Posts
Mike at Simple Engineering has the rear springs I believe.
I have a brand new set of the front Eibach lowering springs still in the box if you are interested. Either PM me or send me an email [email protected]
David
I have a brand new set of the front Eibach lowering springs still in the box if you are interested. Either PM me or send me an email [email protected]
David
04 Black, 05 Black, 05 Aqua Blur, top secret can't say anything about another one
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7,058 Posts
Lowering with a set of springs is not changing the weight or pressure of the front end or rear end for that matter. When you change the springs you are taking apart the front suspension and it is advisable to have the front end realigned after doing to. I think that when lowering the fronts of the SSRs more than what the spring kits do, then the upper ball joint can be in a different angle and some one came up with a set of upper control arms to fix that problem. I think that is when you get to more of a drop than 2".
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9,466 Posts
Talk to Left Coast 32 for the proper a arms.
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443 Posts
I used the Belltech rears with their shocks. Leveled out the truck and rides fine. I also changed to the tucked running board brackets so I could get the boards even with the ground and body since lowering the rear lifts up the front of the running boards. Mike has those brackets s well.
I used BellTech 796SP, adjustable shocks in front 1" down should have went 1 1/2, rear about 2" with shocks and springs.
Aligned the front end as per Dictators specs and good to go, looks great, rides great and tracks perfectly down the road.
I might also add that if you plan on adding Mikes stiffening Plate and LC32's front end bars that you do that first or you may have to have it realigned. You will notice a huge difference in handling with all the above.
As others have said if you only do the rears the front end will raise.
Aligned the front end as per Dictators specs and good to go, looks great, rides great and tracks perfectly down the road.
I might also add that if you plan on adding Mikes stiffening Plate and LC32's front end bars that you do that first or you may have to have it realigned. You will notice a huge difference in handling with all the above.
As others have said if you only do the rears the front end will raise.
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2,482 Posts
Camber........
Be aware a lot of SSRs wear the inside of the front tires because of negative camber. (Negative camber is when the top of the wheel is tilted in.) OEM spec for camber is -.05 to +/ -0.5. That setting wore a bunch of tires out on the inside. (Chev did that spec to improve handling, my Jaguar had the same tilt spec to "improve handling". It also wore out the tires on the inside in short order.)
Dicktator recommends change the Toe spec to (0), (OEM is +0.1 +/- 0.2) to stop wear due to scuffing. And to change Camber to zero (0). If you lower the truck you will increase neg. camber and probably run out of adjustment to correct it.
I had my truck lowered in front 1 1/2". New set of Continentals everything great, no excessive wear. After the International I noticed I had inner tire wear. Took it for alignment. best they could due was -1.5 on both sides. My truck is an '05 with 63000 miles and the top A arm bushings were starting to fail letting the weight of the truck push the top of the wheel in.
By changing the bushings to Prothane from Mike and raising the truck 1/2" I got the Camber back to -0.4 both sides.
Not great but I want to keep the front lowered and am waiting on Mike to proceed with his upper A arms which will move the top of the wheel out and correct the angle of the ball joint which is tilted too much if you lower more than 1".
Sooooo, if you are going to lower the truck you may have to replace the front bushings (based on age and miles) if the caster is out too much and/or replace to the upper A arm with after market if you want to get to (0) camber to stop wearing the inside of the front tires.
Jack
Be aware a lot of SSRs wear the inside of the front tires because of negative camber. (Negative camber is when the top of the wheel is tilted in.) OEM spec for camber is -.05 to +/ -0.5. That setting wore a bunch of tires out on the inside. (Chev did that spec to improve handling, my Jaguar had the same tilt spec to "improve handling". It also wore out the tires on the inside in short order.)
Dicktator recommends change the Toe spec to (0), (OEM is +0.1 +/- 0.2) to stop wear due to scuffing. And to change Camber to zero (0). If you lower the truck you will increase neg. camber and probably run out of adjustment to correct it.
I had my truck lowered in front 1 1/2". New set of Continentals everything great, no excessive wear. After the International I noticed I had inner tire wear. Took it for alignment. best they could due was -1.5 on both sides. My truck is an '05 with 63000 miles and the top A arm bushings were starting to fail letting the weight of the truck push the top of the wheel in.
By changing the bushings to Prothane from Mike and raising the truck 1/2" I got the Camber back to -0.4 both sides.
Not great but I want to keep the front lowered and am waiting on Mike to proceed with his upper A arms which will move the top of the wheel out and correct the angle of the ball joint which is tilted too much if you lower more than 1".
Sooooo, if you are going to lower the truck you may have to replace the front bushings (based on age and miles) if the caster is out too much and/or replace to the upper A arm with after market if you want to get to (0) camber to stop wearing the inside of the front tires.
Jack
04 Black, 05 Black, 05 Aqua Blur, top secret can't say anything about another one
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7,058 Posts
Thanks for the info. My truck has had one of the upper control arms replaced before I bought it. I will check out the other side and see what the condition is on it. I have my "list" of updates and lowering it and new shocks are the number 1&2 things to do. Next up is the front support brace. All of which need to be done and then have it aligned. I have new tires on the front and want to keep from setting the wear pattern in before I can get all these things done.
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