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Just put on the MagnaFlow cat back system that I bought from one of our supporting vendors, HHP.

Most probably know but for those that don't....the install is pretty straight forward but unless you want to take off the Panard Rod you will need to make two cuts in the factory pipes to get them off. A chain cutter or recip saw works fine.

On another thread a saw that one pipe stuck out farther than the other. On moine the pass. side was 1/2-3/4 in. out farther than the dr. side. To make it right I took 1/2 in off the exhaust pipe where it enters the muffler. Now it is perfect. Since the rear valance is not "true" I bet each case might be a little different. I recommend trying them and adjusting accordingly.

I have no idea what the Hp. gain is and don't really care. I do know that the sound is great and there is a noticeable difference in SOP. MagnaFlow says 20 hp and 20 fp of torque but I think that is on the high end. Just let me say that with the pipes, the Green Filter and the VaraRam velocity stack there is a very noticeable difference and it squawks the tires when shifting now....did not before.

For those concerned about noise....they are very quiet at a "cruise" with no resonance at all. BUT....when you get on it it wakes up and really raps.

They appear well made and worth the money...


Rick
espdixie
'04
 
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I recently installed a Flowmaster on my '05 and just love. It was their first-ever install on a 6-speed. Slightly louder but with a very sweet mellow sound that is easy to adjust to. I am very satisfied. Install was straightforward, but we did have to remove the Panhard rod.
 

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Cat Back

SSRReverend said:
I recently installed a Flowmaster on my '05 and just love. It was their first-ever install on a 6-speed. Slightly louder but with a very sweet mellow sound that is easy to adjust to. I am very satisfied. Install was straightforward, but we did have to remove the Panhard rod.
Did you install the cat back or just the muffler?
 

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SSRreverend: I have heard that if you remove and re-install any rear suspension components while on a lift that supports via frame versus tires, that you need to then later loosen the bolts while the vehicle is on the ground (or tires supported on a tire-type lift) and RE-TIGHTEN to correct TORQUE, or the suspension will not work correctly.

Just what I heard . . .

Jim G
 

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JimGnitecki - What happens when the suspension is tightened at full droop is that the bushings are preloaded at that setting. When the weight of the vehicle is then put on the suspension the bushings twist from the point at which they were torqued. The suspension should always be tightened at the static height with the full weight on the suspension.
 

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2005SSR6Speed said:
JimGnitecki - What happens when the suspension is tightened at full droop is that the bushings are preloaded at that setting. When the weight of the vehicle is then put on the suspension the bushings twist from the point at which they were torqued. The suspension should always be tightened at the static height with the full weight on the suspension.

2005SSR6Speed and Jim not trying to be funny but could you explain that so that a layman might understand just incase they run into this problem?
 

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I will try explain it here so it is simplified. Think about the angle of all the suspension at full droop, the tires are hanging real low as the body is supported by the frame. If you tighten the suspension system with all the control arms at this angle the bushings are compressed and the rubber or urethane wants to hold memory in that positition. Then when you lower the vehicle back down on the suspension the bushings are trying to return to the postion that they were tightened in, this is the memory.

Think about it this way, take a control arm that is tightened in a position that is at a 45 degree angle in relation to the ground. Grab that control arm and try to force it into a position which is perpendicular to the ground. The control arm will want to return to the angle at which it was tightened at.
 

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2005SSR6Speed said:
I will try explain it here so it is simplified. Think about the angle of all the suspension at full droop, the tires are hanging real low as the body is supported by the frame. If you tighten the suspension system with all the control arms at this angle the bushings are compressed and the rubber or urethane wants to hold memory in that positition. Then when you lower the vehicle back down on the suspension the bushings are trying to return to the postion that they were tightened in, this is the memory.

Think about it this way, take a control arm that is tightened in a position that is at a 45 degree angle in relation to the ground. Grab that control arm and try to force it into a position which is perpendicular to the ground. The control arm will want to return to the angle at which it was tightened at.
So if you had your car on a rack for an oil change and it was hoisted by the frame then do you have to get your suspension tightened?
 

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SS My R: No!

The only time you have a problem is when you do BOTH of the following SIMULTANEOUSLY:

1. Have the vehicle supported by jacks or hoists that are under the FRAME (as opposed to under the tires)

AND

2. Disassemble the suspension, or loosen the mounting bolts, WHILE the vehicle is supported as in 1. above.

When you disassemble or loosen those bolts, 2005SSR6speed is saying that the flexible bushing material loses the position it was in, and "springs" back to "no tension". Now you tighten those bolts again with the bushing material in this "wrong" position.

Then, when you remove the jacks or hoist that was supporting the frame, all the suspension members MOVE to a new position, because they are again supportig the vehicle. When they do that, they TWIST the bushing material to a "pre-stressed" position. Now, the suspension won't work as freely as it is supposed to.

Jim G
 

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Great review Rick! How's the system still? Any noticeable changes around teh 500 mile mark, yet? Have you even put on 500 miles yet? Some customers claim to be able to hear a slight increase in sound around the 500 mile mark as the packing material settles in. I did on my own car with the Magnaflows.

Glad you're enjoying the system!

Joshua, HHP
 

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Discussion Starter #15
500 miles on Magnaflow

OH yeah, 500 plus...

At a steady cruise they are not much louder than stock but the sound is different...deeper. It seems a little deeper now than initially but I would not say "louder".

There is a noticeable difference in midrange power. It is more so now than when first went on. It took 50 - 100 miles to "learn" I guess.

I am real pleased with them. There is no resonance or drumming at any speed but when you jump on it it "wails". You will definately turn heads with this system.

Rick
'04
 

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Hey Rick........Wanted to let you know before I leave tomorrow the guys who did the dynamat install was Gary of 5th Dimension Auto Services on Duval St. (Off Racetrack)in FWB. Good guys and know what they're doing.

The Magnaflows really spice up your crusin'. Have about 12000 on mine and they are really mellow now. My wife swaers they are louder at highway speeds than when first installed. I just turn the radio up louder.

P/P

Peace:flag
 
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