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I am getting set to modify the exahust system. The question I have is this Magnaflow product. This muffler has an internal cross chamber that appears to work like a X-pipe. What I was thinking was to run two pipes after the cats, removing the Y section, and connecting to this muffler (duel input, duel output) without a X-pipe. Then I planned to use the stock pipes after the muffler. Will this muffler act like a X-pipe? The other alternative is to do something like what vettegirl did with seperate mufflers. Any information would be helpful.
 

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Silver6 said:
I am getting set to modify the exahust system. The question I have is this Magnaflow product. This muffler has an internal cross chamber that appears to work like a X-pipe. What I was thinking was to run two pipes after the cats, removing the Y section, and connecting to this muffler (duel input, duel output) without a X-pipe. Then I planned to use the stock pipes after the muffler. Will this muffler act like a X-pipe? The other alternative is to do something like what vettegirl did with seperate mufflers. Any information would be helpful.
I have the duel in/out Magnaflow + a "X" pipe & no, the muffler does not act as a "X" pipe. Run seperate pipes out of the the cats & you'll see a "BIG" difference in low torque & a truely cool sound.

Good Luck, TOM :ssr
 

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Use a 14568

I split my "Y" section into two pipes and installed a Magnaflow 14568. There seems to be an increase in low/mid range torque. Exhaust note is definitely more throaty at WOT, but only slightly more noticeable at cruise. Idle didn't change hardly at all.

The speed shop that installed the muffler looked at their documentation and indicated there was an x-pipe installed in the body of the muffler. Your e-mail caused me to question this and I just called Magnaflow.... Their their tech support confirtmed that the 14568 definitely has a built-in x-pipe. Glad I checked, thanks.

Even though the 1500-2000 RPM cabin resonance is increased slightly ( especially with the top down), I highly recommend this muffler.

The attached photos are after the install. You might note that we still had a spacer on the front cross-member to set the pipe clearance. We also had to cut off the stock aft flange of the cat and weld on a new one with a new O2 sensor boss installed in the same location.

I saved the stock heat sheilds and re-installed them with Stainess steel tie-wraps, similar to the original installation. The "Y" pipe shield will need to be flattened to cover both pipes, bit it will work OK. You will have to put a slit in the aft edge of the shield to put a tie wrap on the back end around at least one of the pipes to hold it still. If you don't put the heat shields back, your passenger will end up with really hot feet.

Mike

Oh, by the way, I know the "bling on the bottom" doesn't show, but I know it's there.........
 

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Thanks all

Thanks for the info TC and Mike. Looks like I need to install a X-pipe with this system. The heat shield idea sounds great. Is there any products that is avaliable that I can use as a replacement heat shield if during the modifications it gets damaged?
 

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Heat Shield & Ties

I have not come across any source for the stainless and fiberglass sheilding that GM uses yet. It is probably made to GM spec and there is surely a supplier involved, but I have not searched.

When they are modifying your exhaust, have them cut the factory stainless tie-wraps off and save the heat sheild (or shields) for you. You can purchase replacement stainless ties at:
buycableties.com

Order the 10 pack of 250lb 26" stainless steel units. They are an overkill, but are almost exactly the same as the OEM stuff. The mechanism that secures them is neat and you do not really need special tools to install them. You will have to reshape the heat shield a little with a mallet and your hands, but the important part is that the shield be kept between the pipes and the floorboard. OH, by the way.... do not let the kids get hold of these tie wraps!!!! They are a one-time use device that cannot be removed without snips!!!! Very bad on wrists....

I have located another company that makes aerospace grade, aluminum and fiberglass shielding with "agressive" adhesive on the back. They are sending me samples and data sheets. We may be able to use it on the bottom of the floor above the exhaust and cats. I'll post a fresh thread after I evaluate it.

Good Luck with your new system, I love mine.

Mike
 

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Mike: I'd be interested in more information on the adhesive-applied heat shielding material. That sounds really slick.

Jim G
 

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Thanks, Mike.

Things are actually pretty far from ok, but by the grace of God we are somehow miraculously still in the house and still paying bills five months after becoming unemployed! It all defies logic so I know there is supernatural assistance.

Jim G
 
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X-Pipes function

Thanks Mike for your information. And thanks Jim for your work on the drive shaft issue. When I went in to get an oil leak fixed, oil pan gasket the service department found. I asked them about the noise I was hearing on the tink sound. I guess GM has acknowledged that this is a problem and I am getting a new drive shaft that is foam filled. The tech stated that there is a spring inside the shaft that sometimes gets loose. The shaft is always to be in tension. Not sure how that works.

While I was thinking about the X-pipe function, it occurred to me that the pipes from the input sides need to be the same length or that they have to be timed (in length) so that the hot gas arrives at the correct cycle. Because the exhaust system is on one side, is there a formula that can determine the proportions of pipe length? Or is my thinking wrong on the operation of the X-pipe system? This would be handy to know.

Thanks
Bob
 

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Bob,

Your thoughts about the input lengths to the x-pipe being equal is exactly correct. The timing of pulses into the x is critical and you could actually hurt your performance if the timing was exactly "wrong".

With the left system crossing over to the right side, there is no doubt that the pulses could be out of sync. This is where I wish we had an exhaust engineer to assist. I am, however, pretty sure that I am close on my system...... because........ The relationship that GM chose for the length of pipes into the "Y" section was maintained. I figure that GM designed optimum timing into the "Y" section for the same reasons you would want the timing to be right in an "X" section. I cut off the "Y" and added exactly equal lengths of tubing into the Magnaflow.

With the x-pipe inside the Magnaflow, the left bank exhaust actually comes out mostly on the right side of the truck and the right bank mostly on the left. This kind of balances out the overall length of both sides of the duals in a shared sort-of way.

Again, I am trusting that GM engineered the position of the "Y" and the length of the left crossover pipe to get the timing just right. I hope my trust is well placed.

Generally speaking, splitting the duals feels like I added more than just a few HP. It does really make a difference.

Mike
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks.

Thanks Mike for the info. I will work with the shop to get the lengths correct from the Y section.

Bob
 

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Finally got mine done.....

:thumbs
Mike in AZ said:
I split my "Y" section into two pipes and installed a Magnaflow 14568. There seems to be an increase in low/mid range torque. Exhaust note is definitely more throaty at WOT, but only slightly more noticeable at cruise. Idle didn't change hardly at all.

The speed shop that installed the muffler looked at their documentation and indicated there was an x-pipe installed in the body of the muffler. Your e-mail caused me to question this and I just called Magnaflow.... Their their tech support confirtmed that the 14568 definitely has a built-in x-pipe. Glad I checked, thanks.

Even though the 1500-2000 RPM cabin resonance is increased slightly ( especially with the top down), I highly recommend this muffler.

The attached photos are after the install. You might note that we still had a spacer on the front cross-member to set the pipe clearance. We also had to cut off the stock aft flange of the cat and weld on a new one with a new O2 sensor boss installed in the same location.

I saved the stock heat sheilds and re-installed them with Stainess steel tie-wraps, similar to the original installation. The "Y" pipe shield will need to be flattened to cover both pipes, bit it will work OK. You will have to put a slit in the aft edge of the shield to put a tie wrap on the back end around at least one of the pipes to hold it still. If you don't put the heat shields back, your passenger will end up with really hot feet.

Mike

Oh, by the way, I know the "bling on the bottom" doesn't show, but I know it's there.........


I finally took the time to get mine installed since I'm halfway settled at home in Fl. now........L & M did a great job........And the sound is great......and the responce is even better than expected.....Now that I have it done I'll add more shielding where needed........Wolfie.:thumbs :black:
 

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I covered the entire passenger floor on the exterior with a great product that looks to be the same as GM used on the firewall near the exhaust. I priced it several places and ended up getting it from Summit, I think. I bought the 050503 for about $100. It was enough to cover the entire floorboard above the pipes and muffler.

Here's the link.

http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=27

Regards,

Mike
 

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Same Thing

I had the same muffler set up done on mine about a little over a year ago. The only problem I have encountered is that when the shop I had do the job when they ran the rear pipe split over the rearend it wasn't high enough to clear the housing when the truck was loaded with luggage and two passengers, I had to have them move the pipe to allow for more clearance.:purple:
 

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Just a short Addendum to this thread..........

If you are going to copy my exhaust routing, you should install a disconnect of some sort (I think a pair of “3-bolt flanges” upstream of the muffler would be best) so that you can remove a portion of the exhaust system for engine / transmission maintenance. If you don’t, you will be forced to cut pipes in the event of a maintenance need.......

Regards,

Mike
 

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Just a short Addendum to this thread..........

If you are going to copy my exhaust routing, you should install a disconnect of some sort (I think a pair of “3-bolt flanges” upstream of the muffler would be best) so that you can remove a portion of the exhaust system for engine / transmission maintenance. If you don’t, you will be forced to cut pipes in the event of a maintenance need.......

Regards,

Mike
Mike in your pictures it looks like you took out the main catalytic converter and are only running the pre cats. Do you have any issues with codes from the O2 sensors. I am guessing you only have to do an OBD scan for an inspection or don't have one in AZ? I want to split my Y pipe but to pass our visual inspection I would have to run both the two pre cats and then two regular cats in the dual pipes going to the mufflers.
 

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Mike in your pictures it looks like you took out the main catalytic converter and are only running the pre cats. Do you have any issues with codes from the O2 sensors. I am guessing you only have to do an OBD scan for an inspection or don't have one in AZ? I want to split my Y pipe but to pass our visual inspection I would have to run both the two pre cats and then two regular cats in the dual pipes going to the mufflers.
There are only two cats in the system. One on each downpipe from the exhaust manifold. There is no third (main) converter....... just a muffler.

Mike
 

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There are only two cats in the system. One on each downpipe from the exhaust manifold. There is no third (main) converter....... just a muffler.

Mike
Brain fade on my part I was thinking it had a main converter after the Y pipe. This happens when its too cold to be able to go out and look under the truck and try to go by memory thanks.
 

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Finally got mine done.....

:thumbs



I finally took the time to get mine installed since I'm halfway settled at home in Fl. now........L & M did a great job........And the sound is great......and the responce is even better than expected.....Now that I have it done I'll add more shielding where needed........Wolfie.:thumbs :black:
Where in Florida is L & M
Thanks
 
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