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Discussion Starter #1
As promised, here are the measurements for the "do it yourself" SSR wind baffle. I may have to post this in two threads's due to size limitations...

Get a piece of cardboard and cut a rectangle that is 43 1/2" wide and 14" high.
Make sure you get good straight edges on the bottom and top and true right angles on the corners. Also, to make sure the right and left cuts you will make are the same on each side, I suggest you just fold the cardboard in half when making your cuts.

The opening for waterfall is 10" wide and 5 1/4 high, with a curved cut at the top, rising 1" higher. So, if you were to measure the opening at the center point, it would be 6 1/4 high. Come in 16 3/4" from the side and, from the bottom, cut upwards 5.20". Then cut a gradual curve to the center, rising 1"

To get the right curve for the cuts to the upper right and left sides, hold the cardboard up against the back of the seat, flush with the top of the roll bar and the side of the seat. Trace the curve. The part you will remove on the right and left won' be alot. Cut the curve for the top of the seats.

Now you should have a good template, without the holes for the studs.

Remove the bumpers and save the OEM caps and nuts.

The studs need to come through the cardboard exactly 2" up from the bottom edge of your template. The outside stud will be about 8 3/4 from the outside and the inside stud will be about 4 1/2" from the inside of the waterfall cut. Move the seats full forward (REMOVE THE CUPHOLDER FIRST!) Put the template in position and press firmly until the studs pop through. Put the OEM nuts back on to hold the template in place and raise the roof. Check for clearence on the upper left and right sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Measurements continued.

It all should clear with at least 1/2" on each side, if not trim as necessary. Replace the bumpers and caps. Take the template to Tap Plastics. You can use lexan or plexiglass. Have them drill the holes 3/8".

Now you need to go to the hardware store. You have two choices of securing nuts. They are called 1/4" to 3/8" rod coulping nuts and the length is either 3/4" or 1". I used 3/4 length but I used a dremel tool to grind off the 1/8" nipples on the end of the studs. Use a shopvac to catch the sparks and filings. (I don't recommed a regular vacuum as it may start a fire in the bag!)
Now, I know some of you will agonize over grinding anything on your SSR, so try the 1" coupling nut and see how they work. I chose to grind so the cap screw will get a better seating against the stud where they will meet inside the coupling nut.

The studs are 6mm. You have to tap the 1/4" side to 6mm. Easy, get a 6mm thread tap, T-handle, stick the coupler in a vice (or vice-grips) lube with oil and tap the new threads. Clean out debirs. They will fit exactly where the OEM nuts were so the bumpers say in place!

Bill of Materials:
Hand tap
6MM tap, regular thread
4 coupling nuts (could be in the electrical section)
4, 3/4" long, 3/8 cap screws, regular thread
4, 3/8 lock washers
8, 3/8 fender washers, at least 1.5" in diameter.
8, 3/8 rubber washers, at leat 1.5" in diameter.
4 black plastic caps that will fit snugly over the head of the cap screws. Look in the section where the casters and protective feet for tables and chairs are.
Get a piece of pipe insulation for inside the waterfall cutout. (Plumbing)
1 (or 2) SSR Decals from E-Bay

Go pick up the plastic and finish the installation. Remove the OEM caps and nuts and SAVE, but leave the bumpers on. Screw the caps screws all the way down into the coupler nuts, but not too hard cause you're going to take them out. Screw on the all coupler nuts to all studs. When seated, remove the cap screws. It is easier to start securing the L/R inside studs first.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Wind Baffle measurements (final)

Finishing the install is fairly straight forward. This will be easier with two people.
Put the insulation foam around the inside of the waterfall cutout and cut to fit. Put the baffle in position and on the back side of the baffle, on the coupling nuts closest to the waterfall, hold your fender washer and rubber washer, which should be up against the plastic, in place. Take the cap screw and put on the lock washer first, then fender washer, then rubber washer up against the plastic.

Screw the cap screw into the coupler until you get a good bite. The do the same for the outer positions. Once you get them started, cinch down all of them equally with a rachett until they are pretty tight. The plastic baffle should be very secure and no play around the cap screws. Finally, trim the height of the black plastic caps and pop them over the cap screw heads. Put the roof up again to be sure all edges clear. Slap on your decals and you are done.

Now, take out your SSR with the top down, get up some speed and notice the difference. I hope you like it... At least I don't have to turn the stereo up until is waffles out the speakers. You should be under $100 for materials, less your time.
 

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Not a good idea!!

1Badassr ---- A word to the Wise
Having worked with windblockers since 1989 and patenting the WINDBAFFLE in 1990 we have made clear windblockers for all roadsters and convertibles.
I do not reccomend that you attach your wind blocking panel* as you describe. The lower points of attachment will either pull through the panel or worse your SSR bulkhead, unless you plan to drive under 55 mph all the time and not go in reverse too quickly.
The back pressure on that large panel will cause damage very quickly.
Just trying to be helpful to you guys, we all love our wheels.
Sincerely, Bob S. Soc. of Automotive Engineers :flag
*Note: a porous mesh panel will not develop as large a back pressure (less stress at points of attachment.)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wind blocking panel stress Problems

Bob,
I, and our fellow members I expect, appreciate your warning based on your years of experience in the field. I have little experience with design (lots with driving fast). My main purpose here was to solve the problem for the short term (for me) until something better comes along (and just for the fun of it as well).
While I expect that most members won't resort to building their own baffle, I'm sure they are amused by my efforts.

That said, I seldom drive less than 80 and was also concerened about the long term effects the vibration would have on the mounting studs. While the vibration isn't really bad, over time, it will probably create stress on the studs and could lead to some type of failure, like bending a coat hanger back and forth will eventually cause it to break at the main stress point.

Not one to give up easily and since I have come this far, I will work on some flat mounting brackets that might use the same studs, but are secured at the base of the stud rather than the end. This should transfer the energy from bending the stud from the end, and be absorbed by the brackets at the base of the stud instead. God (GM and every SSR owner) forbid that I simply drill new holes for a really secure mounting.

Do you own an SSR? Perhaps you could come up with a design for the SSR that does the job but does not tie the seats together, as in the Windbaffle(r) product.

In one thread I read, it sounded like GM was coming forth with a mesh type solution that used the same studs but utilized brackets that attached to the panel and allowed the seat bumbers to remain and do their job, which is really what I would prefer.
 

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Baffle vs. Wing?

I was watching a show that said that the PT cruiser convertible has a 'wing' between the front and rear seats. They said that this wing was put in just for styling, but it had an unexpected benefit of smoothing the air flow over the vehicle. Would anyone know if instead of putting in a solid wind baffle, putting in a 'wing' attached at the same points would also provide a wind dampening effect, yet not put as much stress on the mounting points?

(If so, anyone up for creating one? Cruzned, would your plasitcs guy be able to make one?)
 

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Tall Order?

look,

This sounds like a stretch to me. As you stated, the Automotive Engineers, with all their expertise, wind tunnels, and computer analysis, did not expect air flow to be affected this way. I think this kind of thing is more an art than a science. Some aerodynamic studies on shapes are very surprizing to testers. Figuring out a wing or spoiler shape that would have the desired effect and fit the space seems like a very tall order involving a lot of trial-and-error.

That having been said, if someone went to the trouble to design a suitable shape, I'll bet there would be a lot of takers on this site.

I personally prefer the look of the mesh baffles over plexi. It seems like clear plastic would gather dust, scratches, and might yellow over time. Maybe a high quality material and the understanding it would have to be replaced every few years would make the less visible clear acrylic a good option for some.
 

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"WAIT" for the 05 Wind Break Option!

I have to agree with Bob; don't add anything that might cause problems down the road. Why not wait for the 2005 model year to go to SPO and order the stock mesh windbreaker. (You want your SSR to be as close to orginal as it can be.)

VERY COOL LOOKING and it is designed to fit on the seatback bumpers. [see attached photo]


If you can see the SSR logo it is on the mesh right bottom side.
 

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Tall order

Yeah, I thought it was a bit of a reach....but I don't like the looks of the GM wind break. And while I like the looks of what other people have made here, I guess I would be concerned about the back pressure mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's always something..

The PT design would be hard to do considering the clearance problems one would have when the roof goes up or down. I'm sure it could be done but I wonder how really effective it would be and it would alter the looks somewhat

The proposed GM design looks good and probably uses the same studs for mounting, but the bar cuts right through your rearview sight line. If they were to modify that bar to look more like llogers design where it dips down between the seats, they might have something that works and is not annoying.

I still have mine in place and have to say that it doesn't vibrate very much at all and will leave it as it is until I come up with some new bracket design. Bear in mind that I only take it out on the weekends as I won't leave it at the commute station all day while I'm working, so there is not a lot of strain being put on it.

So far, Llogers design is the best of all worlds... I am curious about the modification he had to make to the underside of the seat bumper.. I hate to alter anything but would rather work within the confines of the existing set-up.
 
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Windbaffle Storage

Vinyl Suit Storage bags protect the Windbaffle panel if you choose to "get blown" coming home from the beach. Just detach the headrest straps, stow away and go in seconds.
:thumbs
Nostoc- the MR-Lexan of the Windbaffle has a scratch resistant coating and it hasn't yellowed even after several years. ( Acrylic or Plexi will yellow and become brittle with sun exposure). WB is invisible and does not detract from your cars lines or disturb rearward vision like the mesh does, especially at night. :thumbs
It is also flexible and unbreakable and you can tip or adjust each seat without any problem. :flag
 

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:yellow:
Marc NY said:
I have to agree with Bob; don't add anything that might cause problems down the road. Why not wait for the 2005 model year to go to SPO and order the stock mesh windbreaker. (You want your SSR to be as close to orginal as it can be.)

VERY COOL LOOKING and it is designed to fit on the seatback bumpers. [see attached photo]


If you can see the SSR logo it is on the mesh right bottom side.
 

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WOW... An OLD Thread Indeed!

BTW: This thread is over 2 years old. :eek

FYI: For those that might think I don't like anything but stock accessories might be shocked to hear me say that I do like a number of custom products that are out there right now. Especially Eric's products along with Ray's WindsuppreSSR which is certainly one of those great after market products to have.
:thumbs
 
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