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2005 aqua blur 114k miles with the ball joint blues....bringing it back from the dead.
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Is testing the high speed relay on the car normal for a standard relay? Jump the two teminals with the resistance symbol and check for continuity on the others? The resistance symbol is throwing me off
 

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04 SSR
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Yes, The 125 amp fuse is in the underhood fuse box with the 60 amp relay, it is near the front. Held in with screws.

That symbol is actually representing the coil windings, and yes should have some resistance. Most relays would be between 50-75 ohms.
The other two terminals on this type of relay will have continuity only when the relay is energized. Most times you can use a fully charged 9 volt battery across the coil terminals to energize the relay if trying to bench test a relay.
 

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2005 aqua blur 114k miles with the ball joint blues....bringing it back from the dead.
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118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Wow thanks ...so bench testing with 12 volts could burn it out?
 

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04 SSR
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No you will not burn it up. I use a transistor battery because it's easier.

Also if you want to get it working correctly maybe someone nearby has a working stock fan in storage they can part with. I have one in Ohio with a bad ground plug that I bypassed. A year later I upgraded to a SE fan. I will gladly send for cost of shipping. Just thinking if anyone in Texas has one, it would be less expensive and quicker.

EDIT,
Additionally, you might check your lower radiator support to see if stock plastic one shows any signs of damage. If it does, I have one of those I could also send you at same time.
 

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2005 aqua blur 114k miles with the ball joint blues....bringing it back from the dead.
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118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Ill let you know later tody if the fans work when I get over there.
 

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2005 aqua blur 114k miles with the ball joint blues....bringing it back from the dead.
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118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Fans work, hook up harness correctly let engine run both fans come on with a/c on..but overheats...maybe thermostat? Do you have an oem rad fan laying around?

I'd like to put in a t state, but also put in the standard two speed single fan if you got one.

BTW 125 amp fuse was also blown...so accessories now function. Looks like right side vent aren't blowing though...is there an actuator for the right side...oh boy...other problems are happening but are double. Engine was running smoothly up until the overheat. Should those double fans do the job? Or is t-stat not opening?
 

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2006 S/C Silver & 2006 Pac Blue 6spd
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Fans work, hook up harness correctly let engine run both fans come on with a/c on..but overheats...maybe thermostat? Do you have an oem rad fan laying around?

I'd like to put in a t state, but also put in the standard two speed single fan if you got one.

BTW 125 amp fuse was also blown...so accessories now function. Looks like right side vent aren't blowing though...is there an actuator for the right side...oh boy...other problems are happening but are double. Engine was running smoothly up until the overheat. Should those double fans do the job? Or is t-stat not opening?
A normal SSR will keep itself cool without the fan at > 30mph. At 30 the computer cuts the fans off. If all is working well, the fan will switch from low to high and keep the R from overheating while sitting still.. If there is an issue/concern, may folks keep their A/C on with the recirculation button on. This will help keep the R cool, as the software will automatically switch the fan on high when the A/C reaches the proper pressure. Our R’s will sit at 210 indicated, all day long with the A/C on recirculate in Houston heat.

With your R, it is very hard to say what has been changed or not and what is working or not. I agree with Mike, sketching the wIring schematic is important jump off point, then I’d suggest migrating the cooling system to stock form, with Mike’s replacement fan as it works better and is more reliable.
 

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04 SSR
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Hard to tell what's causing overheating as we don't have a lot of information. Could be a thermostat, could be a few others things as well.

What temperature did it get to when you shut it off and said it's overheating.?

When did it overheat?
Idling or driving.
If driving how fast?

I have a stock fan that requires a new connector. I won't be able to get it shipped out until maybe Friday. Perhaps someone else could get one to you sooner.
 

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2005 aqua blur 114k miles with the ball joint blues....bringing it back from the dead.
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118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
I already edited the schematic and wired the fans appropriately and they are working normally as stated, those fans are too tiny and its at idle not moving. The A/C should be able to run any which way without pegging the gauge. Considering getting an oem fan setup and thermostat and take it from there, its good insurance, the connector is wired correctly now and both relays are good. EVERYTHING IS FROM IDLE. and yes the car blue led message on the dash says its overheating.


UPDATE: solved electrical issues, corrosion in the fuse box may have contributed to a defective ignition switch and whatever else that circuit entails...fans though small seem to be working normally, but I went ahead and ordered Mike's ultra fan so that issue will be more than resolve, car rides very smooth...now to the sticking driver window....
 

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2005 aqua blur 114k miles with the ball joint blues....bringing it back from the dead.
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118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
BTW the mystery wire is the Aftermarket Amplifier...which should have been wired to the front positive connector along with a big fuse....so may have to redo that...
 

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2005 aqua blur 114k miles with the ball joint blues....bringing it back from the dead.
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Yes I have taken care of my electrical motor problems now I have a sticking driver window regulator
 
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