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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Please note that this is not the current design.... This was an early prototype. Other threads have photos of the current version.

A new Air Dam Design

I picked up the first sample off the vacuum mold today. It's not quite ready for a production run yet. My remaining to do list is:
1) Reverse the material to have the textured side showing.
2) Go to thicker material to overcome thinning in the molding process.
3) Add about 1/2" of material across the top and a notch for the condenser tank on the driver's side. This will sufficiently raise the top edge above the front fascia.
4) Provide a drilling template to the plastic shop so they can get the holes in exactly the right spots.

Once we get these done, it should be ready to present as a finished product.

I have attached comparative photos of this prototype and the stock unit. They both have exactly the same clearance to the floor. The additional material is actually above the lower radiator support. This forces the air through the condenser.

I need a little constructive criticism on the shape of this prototype. I like the forward turned lower lip and the upward curve of the side wings, but it still doesn't feel quite right.... I have considered raising it another 1/2" or so to trim it in a little better and get a slight bit more parking curb clearance...... opinions?

Comments please......


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Wildcat,

This is intended as a replacement for the $72.00 GM part that looks like an afterthought. If you are installing a 3G Chin Spoiler, this part (or the stock one) will need to be removed. This new air dam will be a part included in the Auxilary Fan Kit (pusher, in front of the radiator/condenser) that I am working on. It will also be available to anyone who wants to replace their ugly, expensive stock part with something about 1/3 the price. I'm trying to optimize the design at this point......

Mike
 

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I DO WINDOWS
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...

If someone wanted to buy an air dam to replace factory one do to damage, or for better looks with out a spoiler, it will show. I would suggest Mike you look at the flow of the bars and lower facia ….. (Sweep back look “genital V shape”)…. I would look at the possibility of matching the lower lip of the air dam to the same sweep line of the bars. The factory air dam stands out do to the flat line square shoulders...... Just something for you to think about … yours looks better already.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good Morning Rebel.

I would really like to do away with it altogether, but it affects mid-speed airflow too much to do that. I had looked at a design that stayed in line with the profile (side view) of the fascia, but it just doesn't grab enough air.

I'll try to tuck it up higher into the front to reduce the "stuck on" look, but I am limited in how far I can go without degrading the air flow that GM designed it for. The forward turned lower lip helps a lot.

Thanks for your comments,

Mike
 

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Looking good

Like I've said ......if you can't buy what you want.....then build it.....and get what you want......It's looking good for the first shot outa the bag....... I need to find a plastics molding company here as I need to mold an apron on to the molded peice in front of the air intake ...to take advantage of the added air since the grill bar is gone.....Your part is sure an improvment over the original....Any better refinement and you won't need a chin spoiler......Good going :seeya
 

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The wording in my last post was not good, Mike. The first sentence was answering wildcat about being visible. I realize it must hang down to catch air…. I was looking at the lower edge as being straight VS contoured to match the rest of the front end because it is in view. (Just thinking shave the lower edge to match grill bars flow)… maybe ½” diff, center to outside in length to form the gentle v)
 

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rub?

Hi Mike, looks good does away with the sharp definitive edges on the ends, but it is hard to tell from the photos on the new design, do or would the pointed ends rub the paint on the bottom of the grill? Or with greater air flow, would they buffet and vibrate and move to where they would rub the bottom? Or are they set back behind the grill bottom and the photo is just an optical illusion?

Does this make sense, cause now I'm confused.....
 

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screws

I would also recommend that if this is going to become a replacement offer possibly, that we do away with the plastic keepers and replace with s.s. bolts and locking nuts, obviously in black to blend.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
REBEL said:
I was looking at the lower edge as being straight VS contoured to match the rest of the front end because it is in view. (Just thinking shave the lower edge to match grill bars flow)… maybe ½” diff, center to outside in length to form the gentle v)
I understand now. I'll look at that and talk to the guys at the plastic shop who cut the mold. Good input, thanks
 

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Mike in AZ said:
A new Air Dam Design

Mike

Man am I glad you posted this. I bought my SSR a few weeks ago and it was a repossession. Upon opening the bed cover I find this piece of black plastic in the bed and the salesman said he had no idea what it was and neither I. I hadn't noticed the lack of an air dam under the grille. Now seeing these pictures I know where it goes. Again thanks and what do you think you will be asking for the new designed piece. Sounds like a good idea since the transmission in this vehicle is notorious for overheating.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
OP said:
Hi Mike, looks good does away with the sharp definitive edges on the ends, but it is hard to tell from the photos on the new design, do or would the pointed ends rub the paint on the bottom of the grill? Or with greater air flow, would they buffet and vibrate and move to where they would rub the bottom? Or are they set back behind the grill bottom and the photo is just an optical illusion?

Does this make sense, cause now I'm confused.....
Pointed ends are above and behind the painted surfaces. Air loading is a concern and I am planning an additional keeper on the side wings. If I raise the spoiler about 1/2", it will be much less likely to get curbed. In doing that, I am also considering replacing the plastic keepers with black hardware. The plastic keepers are the weak link in the system and if you do hit a curb, they should shear before you break the lower radiator support.

Good Input.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Old Biker said:
Again thanks and what do you think you will be asking for the new designed piece. Sounds like a good idea since the transmission in this vehicle is notorious for overheating.
I am looking at the $25 to $30 range, based on an order of 50 from the vendor. I have not finished NRE costs yet and that is my primary variable.

Glad I could help.

Mike
 

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curbs

I will say this about the OEM dam. I have had NO problems with curbs or parking stops (now that I've said that, I've jinxed myself). I am very happy with the ground clearance and dam clearance on this vehicle. If Gm planned it this way, then great, but it could have just been a lucky mistake.
 

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Mike in AZ said:
Pointed ends are above and behind the painted surfaces. Air loading is a concern and I am planning an additional keeper on the side wings. If I raise the spoiler about 1/2", it will be much less likely to get curbed. In doing that, I am also considering replacing the plastic keepers with black hardware. The plastic keepers are the weak link in the system and if you do hit a curb, they should shear before you break the lower radiator support.

Good Input.

Thanks
Mike did you consider making this air dam with hinged hardware. The C-5 Vette I had seemed to scrape when I hit a bump in the road, or when I entered a driveway. The air dam on it seemed to be hinged so that it "gave" when it was struck. Maybe some type of a spring clip bolted where the plastic bolts are! Just a thought. :thumbs
 

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I think SSR owners just have to train themselves

to stop short of those parking curbs. I have done that and I find the rear end does not stick out nearly as far as (for instance) an extended cab pickup. As far as the shape of the air dam, I think it looks very good, but have a question. At the bottom, is the vertical to forward - horizontal transition rolled, or is it a right angle? Seems if it were rolled it would be better, letting the air flow more easily up into the radiators. Your pics were good, they just didn't reveal whether rolled or not. ;)
 

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Sorry, got another question

Are you saying this "scoop" will have to be discarded if a 3G spoiler is added later? I have placed an order for a chin spoiler and would hate to buy your part only to have it collect dust on the shelf because I couldn't use it. :confused
 

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Mike:

If you are going to the Laughlin run in January bring your prototype with. I am sure you would get plenty of input from the group. I think there would be a great deal of interest in anything that improves airflow here in the desert southwest. I am very interested in doing something with the electric fan system to lower operating temps in stop and go traffic down to around the 200 degree mark. All kinds of possibilities, additional fan, rewire existing fan to new temp sending unit, a fan shroud to improve flow. . I havn't had my SSR long enough to get started on any of this yet but would be happy to work with you on it. Hope to meet you in Laughlin.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yaller Dog said:
to stop short of those parking curbs. I have done that and I find the rear end does not stick out nearly as far as (for instance) an extended cab pickup. As far as the shape of the air dam, I think it looks very good, but have a question. At the bottom, is the vertical to forward - horizontal transition rolled, or is it a right angle? Seems if it were rolled it would be better, letting the air flow more easily up into the radiators. Your pics were good, they just didn't reveal whether rolled or not. ;)
Yeah, after years of driving 4x4, stopping short of curbs definitely takes training.

The air dam has a direct bent angle. I'm looking at modifying the mold already and the idea of a rolled lower lip has merit. I'll talk to the shop about how much that change to the mold will cost me too.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yaller Dog said:
Are you saying this "scoop" will have to be discarded if a 3G spoiler is added later? I have placed an order for a chin spoiler and would hate to buy your part only to have it collect dust on the shelf because I couldn't use it. :confused
When you install the 3G Spoiler, you will have to remove the air dam, regardless of who made it. The spoiler uses the attach points on the lower radiator mount. In your case, I would put the $72 stock air dam on the shelf in a safe place and not worry about my replacement unit.

Mikey
 
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