[omg_its_al]

Hi Gang,

FIrst up... THANK YOU, even for the insults. Here's the problem, "she's dead"... ok the SSR not the wife :grin2:
Went out to the garage, to fire up the R, and got "silence". The radio works, lights, alarm bing bonging... nothing from the ignition.

I knew the battery wasn't doing all that well (I had her on a voltage dribble) so I figured (1) bad battery, or (2) bad ignition switch. I went to my trusty NAPA parts store, picked up both. Put in the new Optima red top, tried her out, nothing. So, followed all the great instructions that everyone posted on Ignition Switch replacement, finally got that steering wheel cover off, replaced the switch (yes I checked the gears, and yes the key was in RUN), put her back together, (left the cover off just in case), and gave her another try.

Sounds of Silence (and an whimpering SSR amatuer mechanic)... nothing again.

One side note, the CHECK ENGINE idiot light is on... I don't have an analyzer so I can't tell what the code is, probably 666.

Any ideas??? Besides the stick of dynamite ... Thank you.

Al
[email protected] if you need to email me.

 

[ssrtruck]

Assuming you checked the grounds at frame by battery.
Next would be try turning key on, and move shift lever from park thru the gears and back, while holding the key in start position. ( make sure you have your foot on the brake pedal.
If that does not trigger the starter to turn, then it may be the starter relay. Also check the main fuse in the fuse block.

 

[ssrtruck]

You say check engine light is on. Was it on the last time you had it running ?
It is normal for it to be on if the key is in run position, but not running.

 

[omg_its_al]

Just checked the fuse box, everything appears to be honky-dory. Tried to start her up again, now the shift lever is locked in PARK (i moved it earlier to get access to my battery in the a$$ of the truck, funny place to put a battery). Anyways, the check engine light was NOT on when I parked her in the garage (last time she ran, in December). I think I'm going to have to go find an engine analyzer to grab a code.

I'll need to check the starter relay next.... gotta find a diagram, thank god for Google.

 

[jackatg450]

First things first.

Put a voltage gauge + on the bolt in the red box on the rt fender, - on the alt. bracket and have someone try to start and see if voltage varies. You might have a connection problem at the battery or grounding problem.
Doesn't cost anything to check.

Jack

 

[Dragon2U]

Now that you have proper battery power source, I would try removing one of the cables to let everything settle down for 5 minutes, then reconnect and see what you have.

 

[PokerGuy]

Emailed copy of wiring diagram - good luck.

 

[omg_its_al]

I don't think its the battery cables or connection from the battery as I'm getting plenty of sparks each time I touch (zaapppp) the terminals to the post, plus there's the radio (lord knows I've put too much stereo into this truck, the neighbors whine and complain about the racket she makes when I come roarin in with ZZ Top blaring away). Back to the thread... just my luck NAPA sold me a bad ignition switch, wish I could do a simple check on that, not the first time I got a replacement part that didn't work... the whole TURN the key and NOTHING results has me really thinking it was the switch... I looked at the other threads, seems like a few of us have had this experience... but what's the magic elixir? What did it take to fix her? Hammer to the starter? Bottle of my best whiskey to someone who can come up with the answer.

Thanks again!

 

[pug man]

Check and see if your shift cable came off of the shifter. That just happened to me when I was moving my R out of the shop. The cable came off of the shifter and I could not move it. I turned it off and when I went to start it again, NOTHING. I had to jack it up and get under there and do a temp fix so I could shift it and get it back in the shop and investigate further. Come to find out this is a common problem with the R's and Trailblazers. I'm just guessing mind you but hopefully that might be it and i get that bottle of your best whiskey...lol good luck......

 

[Auggie Doggie]

Couple things to check. Don't know how much knowledge you have so here goes.
1. There are 6 or more grounds on the vehicle and they give people fits.
2. This happened to me. Came into garage and turned it off then wanted to check something and it would not start. Checked everything and finally noticed the gear shift was not up into park far enough. So ran shifter back and forth and pushed all the way into park and it started right up. There is a neutral safety switch and it will only start in park. Also could be shift cable as mentioned before and trans is not all the way in park.
3.If you are checking fuses some folks don't know there are two major fuse boxes. One under the hood and one behind the passengers seat.
4. There are about five onboerd computers and they all have to be functioning and talking to each other to work.
5. Several folks had similar problems and it was a thin copper wire melted in the fuse box. Very hard to see. Several folks have provided a repair kit.
6. Last advice. When I bought my new battery I went to the battery store and asked for their best Yellow Top or Red Top battery and the owner said he would sell me one but they had recently changed manufacturing techniques and he was having a lot of trouble with them coming back so I got the best Interstate they made instead. Could be you got a bad or low new battery. SSR's are very finicky about having a full charge of about 15 amps to start.

If you check some of these things out hope it helps. Otherwise contact Ed Dicktator in Florida. He knows how to fix most anything. Good luck.


Let us know what fixes it. Thanks.

 

[jackatg450]

NAPA switch.

Mike, Dicktator and most of the experts have posted that they do NOT recommend using the NAPA switch. Use only AC/Delco D1426D Make sure that it is the new one, one black cover one grey cover. You can get for about $30 from Dicktator, Mike in AZ, Byers at Classic Chev.

Jack

 

[xoxoxoBruce]

Check all the wire connection at the starter also.

 

[mtr317]

You joked about a hammer to the starter, I had a problem with mine when I turned the key to start it the lights dimmed the radio volume went down just like it wanted to start but nothing. I got under the truck and tapped the starter with a hammer and wouldn't you know it started. I did replace the starter after that.

 

[FUZZY]

I see you've checked everything the others have mentioned.

I would check the shift cable at the trans under the truck as that will cause your situation (it will pop off due to a dry rotted and cracked plastic bushing). It happened to my wife when she pulled into work one night and I ended up driving 8 hours down to put it on the trailer and tow it home to fix it. Simple fix especially if you have it in the garage already.

Secondly, one that no one has mentioned is, there is a wire inside the center console which is actually a signal wire for the shifter. If this was eaten by a critter it will cause the no start problem. I've repaired two other SSR's with that very problem. Another simple fix, but you have to find it. Pull the shift plate off the console and you'll see the wire going to the shift mechanism. Follow it and make sure it's all in good order.


Good luck on the fix.

 

[Dicktator]

05 SSR some had problem with connection to starter I know of about 5.

Check SSR How to Library on STARTER PROBLEM 05

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator

 

[omg_its_al]

The NAPA switch did come with one Grey, one Black cover. I talked to Mike last night, thought maybe it was the "amatuer auto-mechanic syndrome" AKA "not paying attention to details" so I went back after the switch this morning. Mike suggested that I align the key to the OFF position (rather than RUN), make sure the switch gears were set to "off" and try again... I did this four times, thinking maybe I screwed something up... still no luck. However I'm still not convinced that the switch is in "working" condition - why, I can turn the key completely to RUN and there is little to no resistance, no current is running into the switch, BUT gauges & lights go thru all the actions that I'm attempting to start the engine. When I attempt to retrieve the key, sometimes it doesn't completely return to OFF, taking me several tries before it will release. According to Mike I've got the car thinking its been stolen, so the stick (auto) is now stuck. (Damn this would make a great Dr. Seuss poem ).

Next step, pull out the volt meter and start checking current at the engine fuse box. I might order up a switch from Mike...

Stay tuned.

 

[WillieMacG]

I had this problem about two years ago. Did most of the same "diagnostics," with same result. Turned out to be a dead starter motor. YMMV.



:yellow:
Willie

 

[omg_its_al]

I'm off to check the starter now... had a brain fart, that in Dec when I put the SSR to bed in my garage I had just finished washing her off... bing bong.. I live at 5800' its been in the 20-40's for weeks now, what do you think the odds are that water got into the starter motor and she froze? Stay tuned Bat Friends... start the music.

 

[omg_its_al]

Ok which engineer decided to place the starter motor in a location that is completely inaccessible unless you're midget with triple jointed arms? You got to be kidding me! I've got the R up on a floor jack, crawled under that beast that wants to crush the life out of me, and I can barely put a screw driver up against her to "tap tap tap". Me thinks she's gonna have to wait for the spring thaw my dears. This is getting to be over my head. Anyone wanna buy an SSR? Sigh.

 

[Guzzi Guy]

The only thing I could suggest is getting it to an auto service business that has a lift and would charge you a small amount to look/feel for 10-15 minutes just to see if anything is out of place or suspicious. Working on your back underneath the R and trying to contort your body, arms and fingers to get at something can be tough. Never mind that cold arse floor!

Dave