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Premium Member
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well went to the dealer, just purchased my 2006 SSR and had them do a check on battery dieing overnight. They said battery was not putting out sufficiently and needs replacing. I asked them to replace it and keep it overnight to see if it starts and to do another draw test on next morning. They called and did it was fixed started and no draw. Two days later in my garage went to start and dead. When at the dealer they did a history check, seems like 7 years ago a alternator and also a ingnition switch was installed? But that was 7 years ago and 15,000 miles ago. I just returned it to the dealer last night and they are baffled. Still think ignition switch?
 

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Premium Member
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429 Posts
dead

Did they check for the ignition indexing that Mike mentioned.
Remember that most of the techs were not around in 2003-2006, and are also pushed to make sales without doing a lot of work.
 

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Premium Member
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I’ll call the dealer on Monday and tell them, just wierd that for 7 years after replacing it is acting up. You would think going dead in 1-2 days completely it would show a draw.
 

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RedHotSSR
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605 Posts
Electrical System.

The electrical system on the R is a little more than complicated to trouble shoot. Is this a GM dealer? Many dealers don't have mechanics who have ever worked on a R electrical system. Most likely there is a ground that is not secured. Hang in there some one will be able to provide more info.

I do recommend that you look in the Tech section of the forum and also the "How to Library" Please read as much as you can about the R, becoming knowledgeable will make your ownership experience much better. The ignition switch could still be the source of the problem many owners have replaced theirs several times.


NOTE: Please look into replacing the Ignition switch, shift cable bushing, installing a heat shield for the ABS control board, along with the plastic radiator support. These are also common problem parts on the R.


Hang in there the Forum family will help you through this problem.:smile2:
 

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Premium Member
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1,832 Posts
You other thread states you just purchased this truck. Realize the service records they could find only indicate work performed by a dealer. The ignition switch could have been replaced recently by previous owner or an independent repair shop.
The electrical system itself on the SSR is less complicated than some of today's cars. Our system has only 12 modules that may be communicating on only two networks. Today's cars can have over 4 times as many modules communicating on over 4 different networks, including one the utilizes fiber optics. Some of the operating systems like the electro-hydraulics of the top are unique, but that is not where your problem exists.
The tech assigned to your truck May not have been one of the dealerships best electrical guys. This is why I asked the questions I did in previous thread and provided suggestions for finding a draw.
Just some things to consider. It may be that ignition switch is off on tooth and slight movement of switch makes draw come and go. I would ask them to test for draw (using low current amp probe) while slowly wiggling ignition with key out.
Just a thought based on your previous statements.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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11,577 Posts
My guess! Door Latch/Lock Module!

Check to see if radio, curtesy lights go off when you close door.

Door Latch Module leaves radio and inside lights on, it forgets to tell BCM (Body Control Module) to shut off lights/radio.

It would be intermittent some times OK, sometimes NOT.

Also check/change Neg. Battery Cable, bad ground, bad charge from alternator.

See How to Library for more information:

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator


1. Detent for windows. Water gets in.
2. Apart for rebuild, note electric motor, little rusty. I rebuild and have in stock.
3. Connection for security/radio/curtesy lights. Water get in.
4. Neg. Battery cable, at body connection, has two on "Y" cable, one body, one Frame.
5. Neg Cable at Battery, I change cable and battery every 4/5 years.
 

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Premium Member
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, calling dealer Monday and going to email the link, I think that is the problem as the red battery light remained on as theirs did also. Never wiggled switch, will tell them to try also. Will keep all posted on results.
 

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Ret. Air Force
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3,645 Posts
Thanks, I really love the SSR, hope I can get this behind us. Great info from some nice SSR owners.
Dave,

Please consider letting others know the City and State where you park your SSR?

Help could be a lot closer than you think!! I've seen on this forum where people who didn't live all that close would just get in their vehicles and drive for a couple of hours to help another SSR owner out!! We are a family...you'll find that out very quickly.

Sorry you're having this problem, congrats on your :yellow:purchase and welcome to the family.

Alex
 

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Premium Member
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429 Posts
information

I leave my keys in all my cars including the R's as long as they are in storage and otherwise. Never had a dead battery. But then again, during storage there is a tender on board. Daily driving, the keys are in the ignitions at night an over weekends. Maybe I should change my habits.
 

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BlueStreak
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26,585 Posts
In my travels around the USA I have found. in a few cases, that if you talk with the service writer and let him/her know that you have this family as a source of information and are willing to share it, they are willing to listen and look at what you can offer. I have also found just the opposite and have gone looking for another dealer. You can get a better education on the SSR here than many dealers staff have because many of them never saw an SSR until you drove in the driveway. Some will admit that and others will not.

I leave my keys in all my cars including the R's as long as they are in storage and otherwise. Never had a dead battery. But then again, during storage there is a tender on board. Daily driving, the keys are in the ignitions at night an over weekends. Maybe I should change my habits.
As long as your address is not out there on the WEB somewhere I guess you have nothing to worry about, living in the middle of the country. Those of us on the coasts near shipping terminals need to be much more concerned. Good luck with your practice. I have a set of keys for each member of the family for each vehicle. It is cheaper than new vehicles, but then I look the doors on my house, too.
 

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Premium Member
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1,372 Posts
I leave my keys in all my cars including the R's as long as they are in storage and otherwise. Never had a dead battery. But then again, during storage there is a tender on board. Daily driving, the keys are in the ignitions at night an over weekends. Maybe I should change my habits.
:|
I don't leave my key in the ign. I toss it in the shifter boot well, I guess so I don't hear the ding ding when I get out.

But I'm waiting to hear exactly what is left "on".......with the key in the ign. that would run the battery down.:nerd:
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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11,577 Posts
Dave, I change my battery, battery cable and ignition switch every 4/5 years, need to or not.

WHY?? Battery, because it is getting OLD, Battery Cable because SSR depends on GROUND, Ignition Switch because EVERYTHING goes thru ignition switch and MUST see 9 volts to work properly.

Had one NO start, 13 years, at Post Office because Starter "quit", not battery, ground or switch.

No, I don't think this is a great expense or time divided by 4 years.

And it is not good practice to leave key in ignition, security system draw.

Dicktator
 

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Premium Member
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780 Posts
Okay I was having this problem as well and mine turned out to be a very easy fix. Open your tail gate on drivers side is a emergency release wire sticking out pull it out completely then slide it back in all the way. Someone had pulled mine out just a little bit so it looked like it was where it should be but was not. It was driving me and my mechanic crazy before some one mentioned it on the forum. Give it a try no cost involved and maybe source of problem. Good luck
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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11,577 Posts
Okay I was having this problem as well and mine turned out to be a very easy fix. Open your tail gate on drivers side is a emergency release wire sticking out pull it out completely then slide it back in all the way. Someone had pulled mine out just a little bit so it looked like it was where it should be but was not. It was driving me and my mechanic crazy before some one mentioned it on the forum. Give it a try no cost involved and maybe source of problem. Good luck
Interesting! Could have actuator stuck part way out on bed release. Actuator is electric OUT, Clock Spring back.

Not sure it would draw while key is off/out but worth a try.

Dicktator
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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5,740 Posts
I seriously doubt parts replaced 15 years ago have anything to do with your current problem. Is the truck 100% stock or has there been some aftermarket equipment installed anywhere? Could be a ton of things that can cause this. Everyone that has mentioned a part is correct, it could be that part or this part. The problem is, if the dealer cannot replicate the draw on the system you will be hard pressed to find the underlying cause. You can start replacing parts until the cows come home and spend a ton of money on it but you need to pinpoint the problem to repair it effectively. Door switches, computer, tailgate, glovebox door light, key switch, sensor a, sensor b, etc.....

If the battery is new then I would write that one off. They need to start, stop, open and shut doors and tailgate, turn radio on play with ignition switch, etc all the time recording the amperage draw on the battery when things are turned off. The one thing that is shut off that leaves a draw on the system is the culprit. If the dealer cannot properly troubleshoot it you need to either go to another dealer or find someone who is willing to spend time on it to figure things out.

If you have some time and a few dollars you can likely pinpoint the problem as well. Get a good voltmeter with an amps setting or just get an ampmeter. Take off your red battery cable from the red box in the truck engine bay. Connect one end of the tester to the cable and the other to the other wire it was connected to. If you get a high draw right away then you can start pulling fuses until the meter shows no more draw on the system. The system that is related to the fuse you pull to release the draw is related to your problem. Fuse boxes in engine bay and behind passenger seat. You can then start to eliminate things from there. If there is no draw ......

Take a reading with the truck completely shut down with all doors closed for 30 minutes, tell us what it is.
Open a door, shut a door, take a reading. Do it for all doors several times. Record when you shut door and after a few minutes after system should be asleep.
Turn the key off, wiggle the key in the switch, what does the meter read?
Press the brake pedal and release, take a reading
Open the tailgate and close it, take a reading.
etc......

Something you close or actuate will leave a lot of amps on the system after it is closed or shut off. You need to find it by testing over and over again until you get it to repeat.

The dealer will likely not take the time to do it correctly unless the tech spends a lot of time playing around with it. It will likely be costly if it is a very intermittent issue. If you can get it to replicate every time you drive it but they cannot, you must be doing something different then they are. Closing a door lighter, leaving keys in ignition, etc.......
 

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BlueStreak
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26,585 Posts
Interesting! Could have actuator stuck part way out on bed release. Actuator is electric OUT, Clock Spring back.

Not sure it would draw while key is off/out but worth a try.

Dicktator
The key does not have to be on for the release to work so the power source is not disconnected when the key is off. If the actuator is stuck It might be because of friction but might also be stuck because the emergency release is in such a position that it is activated which would be a continuous draw.
 

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Premium Member
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780 Posts
The key does not have to be on for the release to work so the power source is not disconnected when the key is off. If the actuator is stuck It might be because of friction but might also be stuck because the emergency release is in such a position that it is activated which would be a continuous draw.
I now recall if was DOOPHUS who was kind enough to share this with me years ago and all I can say is it work! My mechanic just shook his head when I told him it solved the problem that he and his team had worked on for days trying to figure out why it was happening. One just can't argue with success.
 
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