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Discussion Starter #1
The gauges light up, but do not ping-flip back and forth. The top will not disengage, which is where my extra switch is:surprise: The shifter will not move.
My digital volmeter was showing 7.2. Not sure why, I've had a trickle charger on it and drove it some the last two days. I was planning on taking it to Savannah Saturday so we could take it to the Daytona Rally. The grounds look good and clean.

I have digital gauges, they run off of the OBD2? or something like that. The place techs use to check scans. The gauges are all out.

The battery has a full charge but all is still the same.

I guess I'll get a new switch tomorrow.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #2
I checked fuse 46 and relay 43, they are good.
Boosting the battery made no difference.

Will be headed to town to get the switch.

The interior lights come on but not the headlights ===with the key on. I can turn on the headlights and when switched to start, they do not dim.

The search engine on this site gives a very, very broad response sample. But, I did find some helpful info. Maybe it is the switch, that was my first guess, will know soon.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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6,449 Posts
How old is the battery? Even trickle charging does not mean the battery is good. Do you have a handheld voltmeter? If it really is 7 volts on the battery it would lead me to work that issue first. Even with 12 volts you need some good amps to get things going. Good luck with the switch, if that does not help I would try getting some cables and "carefully" jump it off and see if it helps at all.
 

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Just for grins, try unplugging your OBDII adapter. I had one installed that gave me fits. Many of the same symptoms you described. I finally bought one that will automatically "sleep" (OBDlink LX or MX). Costs a lot more, but peace of mind....
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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13,164 Posts
Just for grins, try unplugging your OBDII adapter. I had one installed that gave me fits. Many of the same symptoms you described. I finally bought one that will automatically "sleep" (OBDlink LX or MX). Costs a lot more, but peace of mind....
I agree and I know that if you plug in some of Insurance Company devise that tract your activity, it can cause your PCM (03/04) or ECM (05/06) to do crazy things.

I urge you NOT to plug and leave devices plugged into Diagnostic Port.

Dicktator
 

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Premium Member
04 SSR
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3,293 Posts
I agree with the others try their suggestions first - Unplug from data link connector first - easy thing to try!

I believe from previous posts you only own a test light - so while in town picking up a switch you should also pick up a digital voltmeter as Dragon suggested. You can use this to test the ignition switch

I would check voltage in battery first (connect both leads right to battery) - should be just over 12v

You can then move on to testing the ignition switch for a possible problem by testing for voltages (DO NOT use a test light -- you need over 10 volts - the light might be somewhat bright but still not enough voltage) so you need to read the actual amount of voltage.
SEE diagram as a guide: it shows which fuses "feed" the ignition switch and which fuses the ignition switch "feeds"

Connect black lead to good ground - confirm good ground and good battery by testing voltage at underhood junction box (under the red cover) place red lead on this connection - should read 12v if good move red lead to following test locations
Both side of fuses without removing fuse 47 and 48 (underhood fuse box) -- if 12 volts both sides continue testing
Test at rear fuse box with ignition in run position fuses 31 or 33 // 50 or 47 // 51 or 39.
If anyone of these is less than 12 volts ( or close to what you read at underhood battery cable) suspect bad switch
If ok -- test crank fuse underhood #5 with ignition in crank position - if less then voltage at battery cable suspect bad ignition switch --- I have bypassed the start side of a bad ignition switch by using my ammeter as a fused jumper wire and supply current to fuse #5 with the key on and started the car.

Best of luck - let us know
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone. I had already gotten the voltmeter. I checked a few things all seemed good.

Just put a new switch in. Everything works great.

The switch that failed is black with a gray cover on the back side.

It has these numbers T16 004 002

Between the teeth or prongs I see a Y2
 

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dead car

hey gang,
my car is dead. put in a new battery and still dead. keys won't come out of the ignition. the windows don't go down a little when you pull the doorhandles. checked all fuses....all good. please help if you can
 

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Premium Member
04 SSR
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3,293 Posts
Joseph
Welcome from central Ohio.
Do you have anything working?
Check battery ground cable where it bolts to frame.

Do you have a voltmeter?

Need more information.

Suggest you start a new thread
Be sure to state model year and your location.
Help will be on the way. And maybe even close enough for someone in person.
 
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