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Discussion Starter #1
As you know from my recent post I've decided to flame the front of my Slingshot Yellow '05. As you can see my painter came round last night and between us we got the lining tape and the Scotchbrite out. My problem is he's such a perfectionist, (and remember he's got to match this colour over here in the UK), he wants me to see if I can find out the paint manufacturer and the codes!? Can anybody help me on this or should I phone Chevrolet over there? :confused

P.S. I've also decided to have the running boards painted Slingshot Yellow and chrome the front "headlight bar" and the "Chevrolet" plate. I believe these are plastic but "my man" says they can be chromed!? (Is this what they've done for the '06 model?) In fact he reckons his plater can chrome an apple !!! :skep :lol

Any help or comments would be more than welcome guys :thumbs
 

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'Chroming'

Have fun with your flame job!

To chrome your grill bar, you can go one of two routes: 1)Vacuum metalizing 2)Silver nitrate

Vacuum metallizing is the most popular method for production. They put clean parts in a vacuum chamber and then bring two electrodes together with a metal (usually zinc). The metal vaporizes and gets deposited on everything, everywhere in the chamber, due to the vacuum. After this process, parts are carefully clear coated to keep the metal from oxidizing. If you want a shiny part, it must be shiny to start with, so yo may want to have them clear coat your bar prior to metalizing so that the metal is as shiny as possible. There are of metalizers in industrial areas. I remember one that was called Vacuum Metalizers, Inc.

Silver nitrate can be applied to anything. Smae rule, start off with your part as shiny as possible. Silver is actually applied over the part in a spray liquid that has the silver in suspension. After drying the part is rinsed with distilled water to bring the silver out of suspension and.. liek magic, in a matter of seconds, the part goes from funny looking to ridiculously shiny silver! It must be clear coated immediately to prevent tarnishing and removal of the thin silver coating. This is how mirrors are made. Applications are done using standard spray equipment. Peacock Industries sells the stuff.

Have fun!

Jeff
Tucson, Arizona
 

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Chroming again

You should be able to have zinc plated onto the plastic at a knowledgable plater, then have copper plated on top of that, then chrome on top of that. I think you can get away with no clear coat this way.
 

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Suggestion

Mad-dog said:
As you know from my recent post I've decided to flame the front of my Slingshot Yellow '05. As you can see my painter came round last night and between us we got the lining tape and the Scotchbrite out.......
Any help or comments would be more than welcome guys :thumbs
Hey Mad-dog,

Looks good so far--Brings back some memories of when my Slingshot was "flamed."

Couldn't help but notice the thickness of the tape used for the pattern (and visible creases). Fuzzy or Rebel might be able to comment, but from what I know, usually a 1/8th to 1/4th inch tape is used for the initial layout pattern. The goal being to eliminate any possible cracks that the paint could seep through. The thinner tape buckles less easily, and the wider tape is used to fill in the pattern.

I like your overall pattern. Are you goint to fade from the front of the hood to the flame color? You could also consider a "negative flame" pattern starting from the edge of the hood that stays the original (slingshot) color to add some contrast to your flames.

I think you have had plenty of help with the chroming questions. Looks like a fun project.
 

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I DO WINDOWS
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Usually layout with thin line tape 1/8", it’s easier to turn tighter corners with. And then go back, and overlap that with the wider 1/2" tape to hold the 1/8 tape from crawling and lifting. Or better yet is to use Transfer tape sheets that the vinyl guys use for vinyl graphic application. Put the sheet down over top of the fine line tape 1/8" layout. Then cut out what you want to paint by cutting on top of the 1/8" tape and transfer tape sheet. Just do not cut though the 1/8” tape all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks again guys!!

Thanks for all your comments and help as usual :thumbs The wider masking tape is just "infill" tape. We used proper 3mm lining tape to actually form the flame lines. So what you see in the picture is just before my man will mask the infill areas, but of course you're comments are correct. I have every confidence in him but like I said that's why myself and a friend actually lined out the flames as he is technically an excellent painter but by his own admission he "ain't no artist"!! :)

And that brings me back to my original and most important question regarding the paint manufacturer and codes as he wants to match the colour perfectly. So any ideas guys or do I phone Chevrolet on Monday :confused We're going to spray the bonnet first then put it back on so that we can line up the fender flames exactly. The whole of the lower front is gonna be purple fading up into orange and possibly reds but we're gonna experiment on an old bonnet first. She should look good for the TV cameras on the Cannonball 8000 run in September :cool
Corsa exhaust system should get over this side of the "pond" this week as well!! :cool

So how about the paint info fellow fanatics :confused :thumbs :flag
 

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Jeff & Terri
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The paint code # is 79U for Slingshot Yellow. I don't know the manufacturer.
 

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I DO WINDOWS
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Originally Posted by SSR290
The paint codes for the SSR:

Color Name.............Order Code................Touch up Paint Code

Aqua Blur......................26U...........................WA-214M
Smokin Asphalt..............41U...........................WA-8555
Ricochet Silver...............67U............................WA-994L
Redline Red....................70U............................WA-9075
Slingshot Yellow.............79U............................WA-423G
Ultraviolet......................21U.............................WA-245E

AS FAR AS PAINT FOR ARTISTIC WORK ... It's your choice, base it on your painters local supplyer. Use what he is comfortable with. :seeya
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks

Thanks Rebel :thumbs He's ordered "House of Colour" materials for the flames but just wanted to see if he could find out the Slingshot Yellow manufacturer to match the bonnet/fenders up and the running boards. Apparently it's got something to do with the original manufacturers "plate colour" and then other manufacturers using lighter or darker shades that are still within tolerence but may not match exactly ? :confused :yawn

We'll get there :)
 

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I DO WINDOWS
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Now I see what you’re after, you’re a perfectionist … your going above and beyond the norm! :yesnod Cheers! Post pictures when done Please.
 

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Hey Mad-Dog!

I see you are trying to corner the market on American made vehicles! SSR, Mustang, Harley, etc.! Nice collection!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
And tucked around the corner is a 2003 Harley-Davidson supercharged F150......... I love your stuff !! :) (So much so I'm about to buy a holiday home in Florida) ..... Cheers y'awl :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Forgot!!

Oh!!..........nearly forgot my daily driver..........2005 Lincoln Navigator Ultimate :cool :thumbs :flag
 

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I DO WINDOWS
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Thats what I like about this site .... everyone has more money than poor little old me. :mad
 

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All of the chrome on the vehicle is chrome plating and not some sort of vacuum metalizing. Plastic is chrome plated everywhere by an initial special treatment of the plastic. After the chroming, there is a post treatment to achieve the satin finish. In '06 models there will be a pure chrome package for all the plated parts. Get some of there parts to replace the satin chrome where you want.
The yellow paint is the same as used on the Corvette.
 

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REBEL said:
Thats what I like about this site .... everyone has more money than poor little old me. :mad
But you have more talent!

What about those of us with no money or talent?
:lol :lol :lol
 

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Rebel the entreprenuer?

REBEL said:
Thats what I like about this site .... everyone has more money than poor little old me. :mad
Rebel,

If you could somehow find a way to mass produce those hoods as an aftermarket option (or even sell them to GM to help with the know temperature issue), I think you would be the one laughing all the way to the bank!
 

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I DO WINDOWS
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I think G.M. knows what they are doing. The hood was just for looks for me. But I do think the under hood heat levels will be lower at speed and after I get the fans in the hump at gridlock also. Like I said earlier, if any company wants to pop a mould in DEC. JAN. FEB. They are welcome to it.
 
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