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Hi Ed,
Newbie to Florida and SSR. Got a 03 that has problems with locks and mirrors. Can I pay you to fix these problems? In Port Orange.
Thanks
Gary B
 

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Hi Ed,
Newbie to Florida and SSR. Got a 03 that has problems with locks and mirrors. Can I pay you to fix these problems? In Port Orange.
Thanks
Gary B
You should consider coming to our tech day on October the 18th. You will learn a lot about the R. The Dicktator, Alex and a dozen more very knowledgeable Fanatics will be on site to help us as we work on various problems.
 

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Been out for a while fella's. My SSR has been sitting about 8 months with battery tender. 13+ volts coming off battery direct and jump box under the hood. All I get is tic-tic-tic when I try to crank. I haven't looked at all 5 grounding locations yet. Hoping someone has some words of advice first. TOPHAT YOU THERE!! On a second note is it possible a "semi" bad ground will give off intermittent readings at all locations? Thx for any help. I need to fire up this LS-6 engine and get some oil moving around in the motor.
 

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Yep I should have added more. I tried he jump start first...no go. I have 12+ volts coming out of the battery terminals and at the jump point under the hood. I guess the main thing I'm concerned about is the "almighty" ignition switch and wondering if that could be the culprit? I've never changed the original (never had any problem before). Been caring around a spare for over 4 years. I sure don't want to crawl under to clean off all the grounds if the possibility/probability lies elsewhere. Thx all.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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Discussion Starter #29
Yep I should have added more. I tried he jump start first...no go. I have 12+ volts coming out of the battery terminals and at the jump point under the hood. I guess the main thing I'm concerned about is the "almighty" ignition switch and wondering if that could be the culprit? I've never changed the original (never had any problem before). Been caring around a spare for over 4 years. I sure don't want to crawl under to clean off all the grounds if the possibility/probability lies elsewhere. Thx all.
I have heard of several poor/bad connection at the starter on 05/06 years. Nut loose. May want to try that.

Dicktator
 

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Thx Dictator: Looked at it...not the issue. I can build a motor but boy do I stink at electrical issues. I guess I have no choice but to clean every ground point and see where that gets me. I'm tempted though to go ahead and change the ignition switch out.
 

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Ok change 1: I am able to jump the car from the battery location but not the jumper box. Now I'm starting to think "cranking amps at the battery".
 

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HOORAY!!! The problem was my brand new battery drops the cranking amps when I tried to start the R. Battery tested at 13.10 volts and they wouldn't refund until I showed the amp drop on cranking. Well outside of established limits. Something definitely internal to the battery. This battery was a 78Ext Ever Start battery with 940 cranking amps. Ok so nobody helped but that's ok I really like this forum anyway. And TOPSPIN if you are late to the fight...problem solved.
 

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2006 ssr Started having a battery drain a couple of months ago. Bought a Interstate Battery (always have without any problem for years) about 7months ago. Car was sitting about 2 weeks. Took it back to Interstate and guy ran a check and said the meter showed a drain somewhere but kept battery for a week to check.(installed a loaner) Thought the back bed cover didn't close completely. Got the original battery back from Interstate and didn't have a problem for over a month. Had the car sitting in the garage for 2 days and now today when I went to start it the battery was dead (quick charger to start). Read about ignition switch but from articles it said there would be some play in it and this one seems fine? This car has been driven less than 400 miles in the past 2 1/2 yrs and never had a drain before. That drain test seems costly since one guy needs to take out each fuse while another guy has the meter on the battery/cable to watch the light.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Thank you...
 

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Hello Ed,
2006 ssr Started having a battery drain a couple of months ago.
Bought a Interstate Battery (always have without any problem for years) about 7months ago. Car was sitting about 2 weeks when I first had gone to start it when it was dead. Took it back to Interstate and guy ran a check and said the meter showed a drain somewhere but kept the battery for a week to check.(installed a loaner)
I thought the back bed cover didn't close completely and the reason. Got the original battery back from Interstate and didn't have a problem for over a month. Had the car sitting in the garage for 2 days and now today when I went to start it the battery was dead (quick charger to start).
car has 28k miles and owned since 06. Live in Havasu, AZ and sometimes over 120 in the summer/car garaged. Batteries never lasted more than 2yrs here.
Any comments appreciated; hated to bring it to Chevy/GM and get charge $150 or more and be told nothing or some bs.
Car has not been driven very much over past couple of years do to personal illness/back surgeries(less than 500 miles over 2+yrs).
Thank you
 

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I have a 2005 SSR chassis that I'm putting under a 1954 Chevy pickup. I have a friend doing the electrical and has run into a problem hooikng up the factory heat/ac unit. The chassis came with all the modules except the roof. Here's his question. "2005 SSR electrical system uses a 12 volt signal from the HVAC control head to the roof/door module where it's converted into a serial data message. From there is sent to the ECM through the data lines where the data signal is converted into a ground output request to the A/C relay for compressor operation, if the ECM see's that the pressures in the system are within operating range. My problem starts with the roof/door module not being used in his "54" because it would serve no purpose, until I learned recently, to drive the A/C function, as far as my research indicates. I figure my options are either A; wire in a relay using the positive request from the HVAC control head, through the evap. fin temp sensor circuit as designed, to drive a ground request to the A/C relay bypassing the ECM. Option B; find and wire in a control head that uses a serial data message with the correct binary code language that the ECM and the HVAC door motor signals can communicate with. Option C; wire in a roof/door module just for the A/C signal operation. I was hoping you could recommend an optional HVAC control head that's compatible for option B. For option A, if I bypass or even T-in the A/C request signal to the relay, will the ECM still run the cooling fans and the compressor through the pressure sensor signal returns which I assume, is normal operation? Mike and I both would appreciate any assistance or thought you can offer." Does anyone have any suggestions for solving this problem? Thanks much
 

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anyone know where I can find the Wiring Harness Female plug, that plugs in under the center console too control the Power Windows, Door Locks, an opens an closes the roof.
 

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Where are you located=? There may be someone near by that can show you how to get the waterfall off and get to that connector. If yo fill in the information in your profile under User CP it would help us know where to find you and someone could be of more assistance. Good luck. someone might try to/ explain it here but often it is eassier to show than write.
 

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anyone know where I can find the Wiring Harness Female plug, that plugs in under the center console too control the Power Windows, Door Locks, an opens an closes the roof.
The center console connector assembly is OEM: 174910-2.
20-way 04 series multilock I/O (Black)
Check with the local Chevy dealership & on-line GM parts vendors.

The console switch assembly has 4 clips holding it in place, just pry it up & out.
Removing the waterfall is not needed.
 
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