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RetroCarGuy530
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1,603 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a "new"/odd behavior with my 2004 SSR.

I was out getting new tires for the front of the SSR and running other errands on Saturday. No problems of any kind happened on Saturday.

This morning I startup the SSR and the passenger side window indexes downward as I place the key to the engine "start" position and it indexes upward again about 2 seconds later with the engine running.

I have a spare/new 03/04 RDM so I installed that and indexed the windows and ran a full roof cycle. Shutdown the engine and started it again and the same passenger side window indexing took place. I reinstalled the original RDM with no change in behavior.

I have some spare rear fuse panel fuses/relays for the RDM and roof pump so I swapped those out. No change.

I checked the 12v power lead into the rear fuse panel and it's connected tightly. I checked the engine bay fuse panel and looked at the 125 amp block fuse and it looks good and everything is tight/fully connected. I re-seated all of the fuses/relays. No change.

I used my code reader and found no pending or stored DTCs.

I replaced the ignition switch about 9 months ago.

Only the passenger side window is behaving in this manner.

I've searched on the site and I didn't see any similar posts.

Thoughts?
 

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Daily Driver
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8,937 Posts
Sounds like the RDM is getting a signal the passenger door is open, then closed, on startup.
 

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Premium Member
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2,806 Posts
Both previous responses seem plausible however according to the service manual the index down is the handle switch input and the index up is the door ajar switch (latch). The following is copied from manual.

Power Window Indexing Feature Operation

This feature is used to lower the driver and passenger power windows down approximately 9 mm when the door is opened . This is necessary to allow the top edge of the window to clear the window weather-strip. This feature will also raise the window to the fully seated position once the door is closed.

This feature is enabled in the down direction by a switched ground signal to the RDM from the door handle switch when it is lifted. The RDM will then supply power and ground to the appropriate window motor control circuits to lower the window.

This feature is enabled in the up direction by a switched ground signal to the RDM from the door jamb switch when the door is closed. The RDM will then supply power and ground to the appropriate window motor control circuits to raise the window.
END Service manual quote

Does the window operate correctly every time you open and close the passenger door? EDIT - (I was researching when you posted your response)
Does it do it consistently when you start the truck?

Does the courtesy lights on the mirror turn on and then off. You will have to sit in truck and wait for lights to time out after climbing in, then insert key and crank. See what happens?
Does your code reader display BCM and/or RDM data?

You will want to monitor the status of the handle switch and the door ajar switch.

If no access to read data then you could try, Unplugging the three wire connector to the door latch (be sure to have window down part way - close door and then close window) the start truck, if problem continues you know it is not a switch inside the latch.
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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1,603 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The cabin lights fade out after their timeout period. There are no door ajar messages.

I pulled the three wire connector from the door latch assembly and the window does not move at engine start time. I plugged the connector in again and the indexing event returned at engine start time.

I have a spare passenger door window regulator, so I plugged that one to test the startup issue. That window regulator also performed the index down/up at start time.

I used my code reader to pull any Chevrolet extended codes and I found a U1301 "Class 2 Data Link High Voltage" one current and one in the history.
 

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Premium Member
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2,806 Posts
That U code indicates that the class data line voltage is too high for over 3 seconds. Should be a varying voltage that changes too quickly to see unless you have a lab scope.Numerous things can cause this. Service manual states all modules revert to default values while this is occurring. Not sure it's related to your problem.
As a long shot try clearing codes with 3 wire connector unplugged and then start truck see if code resets.

I was told to ignore U codes if all modules are working. Because stuff happens quickly and a glitch could cause a U code but no problems. Does anything else not work?

If someone has a latch assembly you could try, that would be my thought. Not sure how it could fail this way.

Of course check grounds, loose ones can do wierd things
I personally would watch scan tool data or use a dual trace lab scope on the switch input terminals to rdm, First at latch then at rdm. And a voltage drop of ground side of switches.
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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1,603 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I cleared the "U" codes and tested the window indexing at startup again. The problem is still present.

I tried several engine restarts and then left if running for about 10 minutes.

I checked for any new codes and none were found, but the window indexing problem still occurs.

I had a CarChip/Ex plugged into my OBD-II port on this SSR. I've used it for years with this SSR, but I unplugged it this weekend to download data and reset its internal clock. I've removed the CarChip/Ex unit for now. I had one of those units plugged into my wife's former 2004 Ford Thunderbird. One day the tranny started shifting oddly, so we removed CarChip/Ex unit and the problem went away. The U codes could be from the CarChip/Ex or the Pioneer/PAC Audio interface module.

I'll see if the U codes reoccur. I'm searching for a used door latch now to test.

I did a ground check on the entire SSR about four months ago and everything was good.
 

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Premium Member
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2,806 Posts
I personally think you're on the right track.
I am not familiar with the carex but I am sure it is on the class 2 data stream and also Realize the radio does communicate on the class 2 serial data stream.

Hopefully you will find a door latch reasonably priced.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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6,223 Posts
Pretty sure you will not get a code with this issue.

Problem is possibly at the door lock mechanism. Can you wiggle the passenger door or handle just a little with the key on to make the window index? I would think it is either the lock or the RDM. If you cannot duplicate the problem by playing with the door components and the door works properly when opened then I would suspect a bad RDM. Sounds like when it is getting power to the circuit at startup it is commanding a window index.

I agree that getting a used latch or removing and cleaning yours would be a good fist step before going the RDM route. I can rework it in a day turn around if you desire but they are not hard to do on your own, I posted some info about it awhile back.
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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1,603 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Pretty sure you will not get a code with this issue.

Problem is possibly at the door lock mechanism. Can you wiggle the passenger door or handle just a little with the key on to make the window index? I would think it is either the lock or the RDM. If you cannot duplicate the problem by playing with the door components and the door works properly when opened then I would suspect a bad RDM. Sounds like when it is getting power to the circuit at startup it is commanding a window index.

I agree that getting a used latch or removing and cleaning yours would be a good fist step before going the RDM route. I can rework it in a day turn around if you desire but they are not hard to do on your own, I posted some info about it awhile back.
Thanks for the additional info.

I already tried a new RDM as my first test. With the new RDM installed, it still indexed the window at engine start time.

I reinstalled the original RDM after the new RDM did not make any difference in the problem.

I tried opening/closing the door with the outside door handle pulled to allow me to push inward on the door in small increments to observe the indexing of the window while the door was being pushed to a fully closed position and then opened again. The door open/close window indexing all worked as expected.

Only when I removed the three wire connector from the door latch did the window indexing at engine start time stop occurring.
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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1,603 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Hey, bud.....

I have a brand new door latch mechanism that I can send to you to substitute as a "test"........ You could plug it into your harness without disconnecting all the mechanicals. All you have to do is call......

Mike
That's very kind of you!

I have purchased a used passenger door latch from Cleveland Power & Performance salvage yard. It should be here by middle of next week. I plan on testing the window indexing with that plugged in as you suggested.

If for some reason they don't send the unit to me in a timely manner, I may take you up on your offer.

Thanks again Mike!
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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12,545 Posts
Here are some pictures of what your Door Latch/Lock Module is probably looking like.

Every time you drive, you have to open door, Module wears out and/or gets wet. Water from Rain, Car Washing, ect. Runs down inside of window.

Dicktator

1. Inside poor conductivity
2. Detent switch, full of water.
3. Disassembled, electric motor for detent, all rust from water.
4. I install New motor, cleaned repaired and tested..
 

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Registered
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77 Posts
Here are some pictures of what your Door Latch/Lock Module is probably looking like.

Every time you drive, you have to open door, Module wears out and/or gets wet. Water from Rain, Car Washing, ect. Runs down inside of window.

Dicktator

1. Inside poor conductivity
2. Detent switch, full of water.
3. Disassembled, electric motor for detent, all rust from water.
4. I install New motor, cleaned repaired and tested..

Do you offer instructions on how to rebuild yourself? I'd love to give it a try, but I can not find those little motors like you have :grin2:
 

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RetroCarGuy530
Joined
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1,603 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I received the used replacement latch. I started the SSR and the window behaved correctly before changing anything. I plugged in the replacement latch and the window behaved correctly.

I found the rubber seal on the three wire connector was oddly rolled over on the top side. I examined the original latch's connector end and found corrosion. I cleaned the latch side of the connector and I cleaned the wiring harness connectors. I also applied some dielectric grease, corrected the way the rubber seal is positioned on the connector and reconnected everything.

It's working correctly for now. It looks like water may have made its way into the connector during the rainy Saturday I was driving the SSR just over a week ago. The SSR has been sitting in the garage for the past eight days waiting for the used latch to arrive. The water may have had a chance to dry out.

I'll drive the SSR the next two rainy days and see if the problem reoccurs.
 

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Premium Member
'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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4,250 Posts
It's working correctly for now. It looks like water may have made its way into the connector during the rainy Saturday I was driving the SSR just over a week ago. The SSR has been sitting in the garage for the past eight days waiting for the used latch to arrive. The water may have had a chance to dry out.
Hopefully you solved it---------and now have a spare latch

Nick
 
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