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Premium Member
2006 Yellow SSR
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well at the dealer and they checked the draw again and now came to conclusion that power top module is bad, Thay had a draw and pulled its fuse and no draw, now they are looking for module, sound right? If it is, which top worked great does any one know where to find one? They are looking but nothing so far. I told them to check ignition by play and perhaps door latch, they are sure it’s the top module. Praying that’s it. Dave
 

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Premium Member
2005 aqua blurr
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1,637 Posts
Check with Mike byers in works for Chevrolet in Texas you can go to the parts section and find one of his listings , and get his contact info.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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6,323 Posts
Power top module as in the RDM (Roof Door Module)? Or something else? Did they provide a part number?

There are quite a few signals that run through the RDM, the door latch signals are one that come to mind. I have never heard of the RDM causing a power issue (doesn't mean it can't) but I have heard of the door lock switches causing an issue and the trunk switches. I would ask them if they could disconnect the door wiring behind the kick panels to isolate the signals and make sure that they are not causing the issue with the RDM. While watching the amp meter draw, if they disconnect a door connection and it eliminates the draw your issue is most likely with that door and not the RDM. Same for the trunk area..... Swapping the RDM is pretty quick and the part is usually not too expensive so it might be the easier solution to just swap it if you can find one.

Note that if you are looking for an RDM, the 03-04 have a different part number than the 05-06 but all of them are interchangeable according to Dick.

Glad you/they are making headway......

Usually there are one or two used on EBay but I don't see any now, if I see one I will let you know.
 

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Premium Member
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Dragon
I am struggling with any door latch causing a constant drain. I say this because after taking some pictures of relays, I turned on ignition with CD playing I shut off ignition. I opened passenger door and radio turned off. I then turned on ignition from the open window with radio on. I then turned off ignition and radio continued as it should. Three beach boys songs later radio shut off. Seems to me like if door latch was defective the draw would still shut down when RAP (retained accessory power) from BCM timed out after about 10 minutes. (Three songs)?
What about battery warning light.
I am not saying anybody is right or wrong just trying to understand how this could create these symptoms.
I realize that when a module fails it can fail in numerous ways.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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6,323 Posts
Dragon
I am struggling with any door latch causing a constant drain. I say this because after taking some pictures of relays, I turned on ignition with CD playing I shut off ignition. I opened passenger door and radio turned off. I then turned on ignition from the open window with radio on. I then turned off ignition and radio continued as it should. Three beach boys songs later radio shut off. Seems to me like if door latch was defective the draw would still shut down when RAP (retained accessory power) from BCM timed out after about 10 minutes. (Three songs)?
What about battery warning light.
I am not saying anybody is right or wrong just trying to understand how this could create these symptoms.
I realize that when a module fails it can fail in numerous ways.

Well, in the door mechanisms that I have taken apart, the lubrication has sometimes hardened, there is corrosion on some internal sensor areas, and sometimes metallic particles are embedded in the lubricants from the metal breaking down due to corrosion. So my theory, right or wrong, is that on the devices that get similar wear, door and trunk latches, the signals needed to tell the related computer to time out or that they are on or off, does not occur. Could be crossed signal, loss of a signal or an always on signal, etc depending on how and where the damage is. Maybe a combination of ignition and switch issue??? Maybe closing the door lightly versus hard or leaving keys in the ignition causes something different? Since I have never had a truck in front of me with the issue and troubleshot it to this problem I am only guessing. I normally just get the suspected bad part, clean and repair it to the best of my abilities and return it.

It's just a theory, as you noted above, the RAP should shut things down in a timely manner. These trucks are an electrical nightmare for a handful of users though, much more than anything else I have ever encountered but maybe not so much when you look at percentages of ownership. A few years ago I installed a bluetooth unit under the dash due to someones advice it worked well. Afterwards, I experienced intermittent uncommanded top retractions, pump motor running, and door lock issues while in motion. I relocated the BT unit to several locations, build a shield around it to reduce output and improve ground. Nothing worked but removal. Some people here purchased the same unit with no ill effects, others had similar problems. I finally found a better alternative that did not cause problems.

You have much more expertise in the automotive world with your teaching and seem to dig into the schematics deeper, thoughts? Plausible or busted?
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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12,786 Posts
AutoProf, I agree with Mike aka Dragon2U about Door Latch/Lock drain.

In fact you and I discussed Multiplex wiring while in Maggie and you said "It will and can do strange things".

The communication/data link ties all the Modules together, including Door Latch/Lock Module.

Because of corrosion in the Door Latch Module, when you close door, connection does not shut RDM/BCM off, system things key is ON.

Been there! Done that!

Dicktator
 

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Premium Member
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Dragon, Dicktator
Thank you for the replies. I was totally forgetting that the switches used as inputs to the RDM from the inside and outside door handles for window indexing are part of the door latch module. :banghead . I was focusing only on the latch itself -- that would explain why no constant door ajar light!

I can believe that if the RDM will wake up and lower the window slightly when it sees one of the handle switches move to the open position that it may stay awake if it continues to receive that input. I am going to have to go home tonight and hook up the TECH 2 and try the Class 2 message monitor. I have never tried to use it to see if module would stay awake - I have used it according to the book to see if a module is active and if not try to ping it as an attempt to awaken it. I hope to watch the RDM message while moving/holding the door handles -- I want to see if it stays active. I would think that the next step would be to monitor the door switches using the Tech 2 or equivalent to ensure ALL door switches are turning on and off and this would be a simple matter of watching data for the RDM. Can't wait to home home and try this :hyper:

I would think that this would effect the window indexing and he would notice that the window indexing on one window doesn't work correctly - maybe because he is new he doesn't know that it does this or hasn't tried passenger door. I wonder if the window is down slightly if this would allow the RDM to go to sleep :confused -- another thing to try.

One of my old bosses was always getting after me early in my career to increase my production. He said that I was wasting time trying to backward engineer or reverse diagnosis problems. Whenever one of our techs put a part on a car and it fixed the problem but he didn't know why, I would spend as much time as I needed to learn how it worked, why this fixed it and how to diagnosis this more quickly in the future. I guess that is why in a few years we were known to be able to fix all the "weird things". You need to realize that this was when they first started putting computers on cars in the early 80's. I've been fascinated with them ever since. :nerd:

Dicktator - Yes we did discuss weird things can occur when there are problems within the multiplex circuits. The latch module does not communicate on the multiplex circuit -- it communicates to the RDM , the RDM then communicates on the class 2 network. However if what I think is happening is correct - then its not really that weird and makes sense to me. The computer is only trying to do whats is supposed to do. It doesn't know any better, after all the aren't really smart - that are just fast - really really really fast. Its the battery light being on that I will then have to monitor.
 

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Premium Member
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OK, I'm still at a loss. I won't say it can't but I could not get a stuck open handle or door (not circuit)to keep any module active or cause battery light to come on. Slight movement of ignition switch (with key in) did cause battery light on. Mine also illuminated the gearshift indicator because I have auto, I believe his is manual. This caused most modules to show active . It also displayed "unlock" on tech 2 power mode screen. I even checked for voltage drop across RDM fuse. I showed 0 with door open or with handle held open after a few seconds.
I am not saying that it couldn't happen, I am saying that it might be RDM. But it still doesn't explain battery light.
Dave if you did in fact notice that battery light was on, then my money is on ignition switch.
Took a few pictures, but didn't have enough hands.

First three show key moved just enough to cause battery light on, next shows power mode as unlock - not off as it should be or accessory if you move it just a little further. Third shows most modules displayed active.
Last two show modules inactive but input screen shows drivers door handle active. I was holding door closed and inside door handle open during both of these.

Attention Dave if they replace rdm AND it fixes it, I will pay shipping plus extra for handling, to get old one so I can plug it in and recheck my diagnosis, data from my tech 2 and tests I performed. I want to figure this thing out and an easier way to recommend finding this problem in the future
Thanks, keep us posted.
 

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Premium Member
2006 Yellow SSR
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Today ignition switch arrives, we will see if in a day it starts, hoping this is it, next probably door latch. The top module was unavailable, and dealer read this thread and thinks as stated the switch. I will keep all informed, thanks Dave
 

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Premium Member
2006 Yellow SSR
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Well the dealer read over all the forums I sent him and came to the conclusion that it is the ignition switch, well new one installed and 4 days later still starts. ?, thanks for all the groups help. ?
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
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28,462 Posts
Well the dealer read over all the forums I sent him and came to the conclusion that it is the ignition switch, well new one installed and 4 days later still starts. ��, thanks for all the groups help. ��
You need to ask them to buy you a Lifetime Supporting Membership for doing their research for them.0:)
 

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Premium Member
'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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:amen::amen: :agree:agree trade it for the refund for the Battery. Glad It's STILL GOOD!!!

Nick
 
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