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Discussion Starter #1
The 4 wire connection to the roof pump has a large black and red wire and a small black and purple wire. I have power to the large wires but not the small wires. Can anyone tell me if those small wires are supposed to have power or are they for some kind of signal. Thanks all. 馃槑
 

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The small wires are for the thermistor, used to sense pump temperature. The purple should read some voltage with a voltmeter. I am not sure if a 5 volt or 12 volt reference voltage. The only time you would read 5 or 12 would be with it unplugged. Other times it will be lower.
Do not use test light, use high impedance meter.
The polarity of the other two reverses as the pump motor reverses, like a window motor and should not have power unless button is depressed. Depending on up or down will vary if red is power with black serving as ground path or black is power and red serves as ground path in opposite direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The small wires are for the thermistor, used to sense pump temperature. The purple should read some voltage with a voltmeter. I am not sure if a 5 volt or 12 volt reference voltage. The only time you would read 5 or 12 would be with it unplugged. Other times it will be lower.
Do not use test light, use high impedance meter.
The polarity of the other two reverses as the pump motor reverses, like a window motor and should not have power unless button is depressed. Depending on up or down will vary if red is power with black serving as ground path or black is power and red serves as ground path in opposite direction.
Thanks. Looks like I鈥檒l be sending my pump/motor to Top Hydraulics to be rebuilt. i have power all over but no pump. 鈽
 

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@Groceryman101 , You stated you had power to both large wires. Yet, you asked what small wires were for?
You did not ask how to test pump circuit.

The pump is not a common failure component.
I am not sure of your test procedures for power, as both wires can't be powered at same time and expect motor to work.
As a second test i recommend my students test power window motor circuits by connecting a 12 volt test light (or larger light) in place of the motor. The see if light comes on in both directions of the switch. If light does not illuminate as pump is commanded up and down problem is not in pump.
So i would suggest with connector to pump still plugged in, back probe into large wires with a 12 volt light. It should illuminate as switch is moved both up and down. If you are sure you have good connections and it does not light the problem is most likely NOT the pump. You cannot disconnect the connector to perform this test as the thermistor circuit would be open and this may prevent pump operation.
Its fairly easy to perform this additional test to be sure your diagnosis is correct.

EDIT
you could also backprobe with your voltmeter. Connect red lead to red wire and black lead to black wire. Observe meter as you command top up and down. If circuits sre good you should see 12 vdc in one direction and -12vdc the other direction, anything else suggests circuit problems not a pump problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
DO NOT throw away old pump.
I will gladly pay postage for your old one.
I still have it. Wanted to make sure the replacement worked. I may need to swap one of the solenoids. The one that works the main roof hydraulic. Everything else is moving/ working but that. Will need to double check the connection first and check to see if it is leaking or maybe I didn鈥檛 tighten enough the piece that holds all the hoses to the pump. 馃槑
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Groceryman, hope this is letting you see light at the end of the tunnel. Where is the leak located?
Not sure. Maybe the passenger main hydraulic cylinder or the manifold on the pump itself. but I do see the light at the end of the tunnel. 馃槑
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Maybe I get lucky and the wires aren鈥檛 snug on one of the solenoids. Does anyone know which one pumps the main cylinders ? 馃槑
 

Cantankerous SSR CaretakR
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The hydraulic system is a fairly complicated system. Both solenoids 1 & 2 are used to control the main lift cylinders. However, not in the way one would think. These two solenoids control both the roof tonneau AND the main roof. During actual raising of the roof both 1 & 2 are energized sending pressure to both ends of the main cylinders. Because that pressure is working on different piston areas, the main cylinders extend. Also there are pump reversals occurring during roof operation. Solenoid 1 is top right, solenoid 2 is bottom right.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The hydraulic system is a fairly complicated system. Both solenoids 1 & 2 are used to control the main lift cylinders. However, not in the way one would think. These two solenoids control both the roof tonneau AND the main roof. During actual raising of the roof both 1 & 2 are energized sending pressure to both ends of the main cylinders. Because that pressure is working on different piston areas, the main cylinders extend. Also there are pump reversals occurring during roof operation. Solenoid 1 is top right, solenoid 2 is bottom right.
Thanks. 馃槑 I believe I鈥檓 getting closer to figuring this out. Today I had the top down. I pushed the button to open the cover and flapper and the top closed. 馃槑 but, trying to put the roof down is another story. The cover and flapper open, the roof unlatches but then the cover and flapper start to go down and the roof timeouts. So I鈥檓 guessing there is some kind of timing mishap. Thoughts everybody ? 馃
 

BlueStreak
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Sounds like you need a trip to @Dicktator 's where you can do a side by side with someone who has done this a few times before. I am not volunteering Dick, just asking him to check this thread, again.
 

Cantankerous SSR CaretakR
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Since the roof is unlatching, it appears that the tonneau extension HES is signaling to RDM that the extension is fully open. It is weird that the tonneau starts to close. What is your fluid level? Have you purged all the air out of the system since replacing the pump? Are you getting any DIC warnings. Getting a scan tool on your truck would be prudent to troubleshoot. As Bluestreak states above, your best bet would be to make a trip down to Clearwater.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks guys. I鈥檒l check the fluid level again and sensors / magnets and exercise it a few times and see if I get lucky 馃槑
 

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Groceryman, should be fairly easy to distinguish from where the fluid leak is coming. If a cylinder, then fluid will be pooled on whichever side is leaking (along the sidewall). If fluid is pooled under the pump, then I would first suspect the reservoir is misaligned/loose and leaking from the mounting point. Get a small mirror and look around the base of the reservoir to ensure it is mounted flush with the base and that the clamp is snugged down as well (not too tight or you may damage the reservoir). Did you check the reservoir and O-ring condition when you replaced the pump?
 

SSR Pit Crew
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The 4 wire connection to the roof pump has a large black and red wire and a small black and purple wire. I have power to the large wires but not the small wires. Can anyone tell me if those small wires are supposed to have power or are they for some kind of signal. Thanks all. 馃槑
Autoprof is correct, it is for the Thermister.

Just plug it in.

Dicktator
 

SSR Pit Crew
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You need to read all the information (FREE) on SSR How to Library on ROOF.


Electric motor runs pump, yes they go bad, seen 3, can be rebuilt. Pump, never seen one bad!!

Cylinder leaking? Sure, it was designed for 10yrs!

Like Carl Bush said, small mirror under reservoir will tell. Reservoir PLASTIC be careful in checking or removing.

Need to be rebuilt.
Cabriolet Hydraulics
3007 62nd Avenue
East
Bradenton, Fl 34203
Phone
941-756-1300

or

Top Hydraulics
[3101 - 3199] Pacific View Dr,
Florence, OR 97439

Replaced pump/motor, need to operate to get "air" out of "self" purging system.

The Florida "R Gang" is in Winter Garden (Orlando), drive over, get expert advice, they have lots of training and parts from Dicktator.

Call Ambassador Tom Sorenson, aka Soren703 Cell 770-568-8092

Dicktator
 
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