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In preparation for upcoming Rallies, I'm gathering up tools and parts for that (just in case) scenario.

I need some clarification regarding the ignition switch PDF file. I have a spare switch and if/when I needed to swap it in, I have a couple of questions.

1. Is removal of the tilt lever simply by tugging on it (press fit?) or is there something that has to come out first to get that lever out. My brief peek showed no screw/clip or other.

2. Picture on page one and two and last page, all ref. an automatic. There is NO groove on the key switch on a six speed. There is a button. Alll those pics show the (grooves lined up) and the switch obviously in the "off" position..........while the text suggests the key should be in the "run" posiltion.

A little help here as to which position during the procedure with a six speed ignition.:wink2:
 

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Premium Member
2006 Automatic
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902 Posts
Yes, I replaced my ignition switch when I got the truck and it failed so I am on my second one. Mine is a late 06. I keep the original one as a backup since it was working when it was replaced.
 

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Replaced mine too. After all the horror stories it just seemed like the thing to do.

Yes. the tilt lever just pulls off. Grab and tug.

The grove on the key switch is just to give you visual location in my experience. It helps you know where the cylinder is. I didn't find it had anything else to do with the process. The biggie is to be sure the cogs on the plastic gear are in the right orientation. If you have the key in the run position, which I did, the gear on the switch need to be set the same. You can move the gear on the switch if you need to.

Hope that helps.
 

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Daily Driver
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8,980 Posts
I also changed mine and kept the original as an emergency backup.
The reason I did that is I figured the first time I changed it I'd rather do it in the driveway on a pleasant day, instead of when I had to at 3 AM on the side of an unlit road in a sleet storm.
 

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Premium Member
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In preparation for upcoming Rallies, I'm gathering up tools and parts for that (just in case) scenario.

I need some clarification regarding the ignition switch PDF file. I have a spare switch and if/when I needed to swap it in, I have a couple of questions.

1. Is removal of the tilt lever simply by tugging on it (press fit?) or is there something that has to come out first to get that lever out. My brief peek showed no screw/clip or other.

2. Picture on page one and two and last page, all ref. an automatic. There is NO groove on the key switch on a six speed. There is a button. Alll those pics show the (grooves lined up) and the switch obviously in the "off" position..........while the text suggests the key should be in the "run" posiltion.

A little help here as to which position during the procedure with a six speed ignition.:wink2:
I agree with you, about the key position, don't know about the groove line up, mines an auto.

The tilt lever just pulls out. Take a pic with your phone before you remove it, or draw a pic in your manual. If you have to do this, late at night or in bad weather, it would be nice to know how it goes back.
You may want to put a cloth(handkerchief) over it and use pliers to pull it.

If you leave the key in the run position and then push the teeth on the new switch until it springs back, it will roll forward and then sort of spring back with some resistance, they will be set up alike. I did put one in one time and I could see the PRNDL all the time. I think I was one tooth off. I took it out and did it again and all was well.

I did not have any screws holding my cover on. But now I need them, it does not stay snapped together. If someone knows what size screw holds it on, I would like to know. I need to put some in mine.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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13,182 Posts
I will do a How to for the 6 speed owners.

I thought it would be easy, Key out, no lights on, should be OK.

Key out Acc lights on, in wrong.

Dicktator

1. Key off
2. Key out
3. Key Acc. position
4. Remove detent
5. I have steering column 6 speed on my bench.
 

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Cantankerous SSR CaretakR
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2,305 Posts
Also, unlike the automatics, both 6 speed columns that I have changed ignition switches on have had the two Torx screws holding the column shroud together from the factory.
 

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257 Posts
Self Tapping Screws

I agree with you, about the key position, don't know about the groove line up, mines an auto.

The tilt lever just pulls out. Take a pic with your phone before you remove it, or draw a pic in your manual. If you have to do this, late at night or in bad weather, it would be nice to know how it goes back.
You may want to put a cloth(handkerchief) over it and use pliers to pull it.

If you leave the key in the run position and then push the teeth on the new switch until it springs back, it will roll forward and then sort of **** back with some resistance, they will be set up alike. I did put one in one time and the DIC light stayed on all the time, I could see the mileage or in my case PRNDL all the time. I think I was one tooth off. I took it out and did it again and all was well.

I did not have any screws holding my cover on. But now I need them, it does not stay snapped together. If someone knows what size screw holds it on, I would like to know. I need to put some in mine.
Don't remember what size but I checked the hole sizes and used self-tapping screws. Worked well but take your time not to strip them. I did run a tap through to clean it up.

Paul
 

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542 Posts
Don't remember what size but I checked the hole sizes and used self-tapping screws. Worked well but take your time not to strip them. I did run a tap through to clean it up.

Paul
I hate to pull it off again, but since it doesn't fasten, I guess it's no big deal. I can take the cover off, bring it in and see if I can match the holes up with a screw.
 

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Daily Driver
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8,980 Posts
Wolfpacker, the holes in the plastic are oversized, check the holes in the metal.

gaindian, no need to freak out, but having a spare is a good idea. It's not a difficult job. They all come with screw holes but very few came with screws in them. They are a back up in case you mess up the tabs that hold the plastic cover on, which takes a lot of worry out off disassembly.

I changed mine to see how it's done in case of a problem, but there was nothing wrong with the factory switch(kept as a spare), and have been running the replacement switch for 10 years without a problem.

Keep in mind there are probably still over 20,000 SSRs running out there and quite often owners only come here when they have a problem. That can appear like the SSR is trouble prone but that's an illusion.

Don't worry, be happy. If you do have a problem there are people here, smarter than me, who can tell you the best and cheapest way to fix it.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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2,240 Posts
The covers or housing that fits around the steering column were still available new last year when I split mine to check the ignition switch component and found that a couple of the plastic "hooks" broken on disassembly. I think I paid $65.00 for the new housings which I thought was pretty reasonable.

Dave
 

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2,072 Posts
ZIP Ties

2 small zip ties on the rim next to the steering wheel. Trim the ends, they disappear. If you have to take the cover off again, just pull the ties toward the steering wheel. Mine have been on there for 8 years and no one has noticed them.

Jack
 

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Premium Member
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892 Posts
The covers or housing that fits around the steering column were still available new last year when I split mine to check the ignition switch component and found that a couple of the plastic "hooks" broken on disassembly. I think I paid $65.00 for the new housings which I thought was pretty reasonable.

Dave
I bought one as recently as a couple of months ago for a similar price. They’re sold as a set with both the upper and lower.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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13,182 Posts
Also, unlike the automatics, both 6 speed columns that I have changed ignition switches on have had the two Torx screws holding the column shroud together from the factory.
Yes they are torques screwed on!

Two screws each a different size torque! How about that GM?

Still set KEY at RUN position, switch also at RUN position, slide in, all done.

Dicktator
 

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Premium Member
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227 Posts
My 2 cents. Place a piece of tape on the column where the tumbler is. Mark exactly there the line is on the tape. Then if it moves when you replace the switch, you have a good starting point. When I did mine, I dropped the switch and the key tumbler moved at the same time. I wish I had had a reference mark
 
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