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Discussion Starter #1
:frown2:

Upon our return from Maggie Valley, the truck has sat for several days without me using it at all. A few days ago, was trying to get it "debugged" from all the stuff that stuck to it on the return trip.

Now, it seems I have a new (debug) challenge. Went to back out of the garage a few days ago to complete a wax job and zip/nada........with the switch.

No "click" or anything with the key turned to start. No cargo lid pop up as a result of hitting the key fob button. The battery was "tits up".

Put a charger on it and was thinking that just maybe the "drain" may have occurred from me leaving the led lights under the hood on by mistake.

What ever the reason, I got it re-charged and knew I had likely lost any memory stuff. So I
plugged in my drivers seat setting as it was already where I wanted it. Decided I would deal with radio (selected/favorite) station settings later.

So, today I took it out and once on the road, I tried to tune in the radio............zip/nada.

It seems I'm not gonna be able to look into it until Sunday due to other commitments. But thought I would see if anyone had some ideas in the meantime.

I do have the Service manuals. One potential "hint" (or maybe not)............Since returning home and finding the battery dead, when I get in the cab......I'm smelling what to me seems to be an electrical "smell".......like a burned wire or "short". Have yet to check any fuses, but with the smell and no radio power, I'm zeroing in on a blown fuse maybe.:puzzled:
 

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For the smell check your lite in bed and soon for the radio my battery went dead once changed it out after seeing it would barely start the ssr when I put in fully charged new battery radio was working
 

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Discussion Starter #3
For the smell check your lite in bed and soon for the radio my battery went dead once changed it out after seeing it would barely start the ssr when I put in fully charged new battery radio was working
:smile2:

Clearly not a problem with my cargo lid light. It's non functional since I got the truck. cable from lid light just hangs down in mid air. Someone cut the wires and I've not yet pulled back the left side cargo wall carpeting to locate just where/how I could get it re-wired.

Meantime, the radio glitch is no more. Via the owners manual, I found out where the radio fuse was located. Pulled it out to check it and it looked good to me, (no corrosion either) as when I re-inserted it, I could hear the CD changer doing it's thing.

This clued me in to I now had power back to the radio. Got behind the wheel and turned on the switch and bingo, all radio function back..........didn't even lose my pre-selected stations either.

Why it did not function after the dead battery issue and just pulling and re-inserting the radio fuse fixed it..................I have no clue.:surprise:
 

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I think I remember reading where there is constant power to the wiring for the cargo lite in the bed which cause a short and or fire in that area. I may be wrong and am sure one of the electrical guru's will chime in on this. You should check the wiring to be on a safe side replace the fuse for that area with a smaller one and install an led lite to be on the safe side. Just a passing thought like a fart in the wind they come and they go.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think I remember reading where there is constant power to the wiring for the cargo lite in the bed which cause a short and or fire in that area. I may be wrong and am sure one of the electrical guru's will chime in on this. You should check the wiring to be on a safe side replace the fuse for that area with a smaller one and install an led lite to be on the safe side. Just a passing thought like a fart in the wind they come and they go.
:smile2:
Thanks, I'm aware of the cargo light "problem" as described. I'm relatively sure whomever (terminated) the connection, must have addressed the power source within the left side cargo area as it's been that way since I got the truck.

Once I decide to tackle removing the wall carpeting and sourcing where the damn wires come out and where the switch is or should be........I'll see about reconnecting it all and at the same time going with the recommended LED lamp and also the smaller amp fuse too.

Meantime, now that my radio function has returned, all electrical systems (minus cargo lid light) seem to be working as they should.:wink2:
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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Lets see, fuses/relays have been in fuse box for at least 12years. Electrolysis set in, louses contact.

Suggest you tighten 7 mm bolts on rear fuse box. Bolts "pull" Harness Contacts onto pins.

I loosen two turns and then retighten, do that when ever I change battery, which is every 4/5 years need to or not. I also change Negative cable on battery to frame/body when I change battery.

Bed light! Burnt! Yellow wire still "HOT" when ever truck is on! Bed Cover metal, no insulation, can take out RDM and has, then Roof doesn't work. Up to you.

Dicktator

SSR How to Library.

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

1. 7mm bolts that PULL connectors onto pins/fuses/relays.
2.Burn't Bed Light wires. Yellow HOT!
3.Body Ground, Negitive Cable
4.Frame Ground, Negitive Cable
5. Ground Cable ONLY at NAPA. Part# on SSR How to Library
 

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:smile2:

Clearly not a problem with my cargo lid light. It's non functional since I got the truck. cable from lid light just hangs down in mid air. Someone cut the wires and I've not yet pulled back the left side cargo wall carpeting to locate just where/how I could get it re-wired.

Meantime, the radio glitch is no more. Via the owners manual, I found out where the radio fuse was located. Pulled it out to check it and it looked good to me, (no corrosion either) as when I re-inserted it, I could hear the CD changer doing it's thing.

This clued me in to I now had power back to the radio. Got behind the wheel and turned on the switch and bingo, all radio function back..........didn't even lose my pre-selected stations either.

Why it did not function after the dead battery issue and just pulling and re-inserting the radio fuse fixed it..................I have no clue.:surprise:
Even though you saw no corrosion you obviously had a weak connection. Pull each fuse and clean all your contact surfaces on fuses and box or you may have more gremlins show up. I believe Dictator was the first to recommend this maintenance to avoid issues just like the one you had. Regards
 

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Discussion Starter #8
:smile2:
Thanks guys for the "tips". I'll be getting into the cargo light deal fairly soon and see how or if the yellow wire was stowed after being cut. I want to get the whole deal working again.

Dictator.......I agree with your maintenance steps regarding the battery connections and replacing the ground cable as it appears to be quite exposed where it is located. I would however, recommend one additional step to add "insurance" to your cable replacement.

As I've done for many years with my old streetrod battery (located just behind right front wheel) I always when replacing the battery would add liquid electrical tape to the whole battery post(s) and cable ends once all were in place. Once that stuff hardens up, it makes your connections pretty much protected from the elements.:wink2:

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Spe...MI2-jM3MK12wIVTgOGCh3uTg_mEAQYAyABEgLjOfD_BwE
 

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LED under hood.

A few years ago I left the LEDs under the hood on after demo of them in the daylight. I decided to fix that. I ordered a pin switch, but it was neg- ground only, could not find a pos. so went with rely, poor decision, power drain for the relay. I had a mini toggle switch for the positive, so routed direct to the LEDs and ran negative- wire from each LED to the neg_pin switch. So now if I forget to turn the toggle off, the pin switch breaks the neg_ to the lights when I close the hood.

Jack
 

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:smile2:
Thanks guys for the "tips". I'll be getting into the cargo light deal fairly soon and see how or if the yellow wire was stowed after being cut. I want to get the whole deal working again.

Dictator.......I agree with your maintenance steps regarding the battery connections and replacing the ground cable as it appears to be quite exposed where it is located. I would however, recommend one additional step to add "insurance" to your cable replacement.

As I've done for many years with my old streetrod battery (located just behind right front wheel) I always when replacing the battery would add liquid electrical tape to the whole battery post(s) and cable ends once all were in place. Once that stuff hardens up, it makes your connections pretty much protected from the elements.:wink2:

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Spe...MI2-jM3MK12wIVTgOGCh3uTg_mEAQYAyABEgLjOfD_BwE
Yes, Thanks, I already do that but not same material.

Dicktator
 
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