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Premium Member
2006 Pac Blue 6-Speed
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1,336 Posts
@richsadams Thank you for the diagram with the locations of the fuses to remove if a jump start ever becomes the only option. I have a relatively new battery and use a Battery Tender, but if I end up stuck someplace by chance I will be sure to take a few minutes to remove these fuses.
 

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Lost In The 50's
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1,361 Posts
We're cut from the same cloth Eddy. I know it's a fairly rare problem, but it is concerning and why I've been following the threads on the topic for a couple of years now. I confess that I would have been one of those folks that would have bought one and squirreled it away when they were selling for <$500 had I known what I know now. Since they've crested $2200 or more (when they do show up) I'm a little less likely to do that. :sneaky:

I received this advice from a well-known expert here when I went to replace my battery recently:

"Remove two fuses, #28 for the RDM and #40 for the TBC to prevent any damage; both located in the interior fuse console behind the passenger seat."

I've never had to jumpstart our SSR and hopefully never will since it has a brand-new battery and is always kept on a Deltran Battery Tender... but if I DO, I plan on removing those two fuses to be safe.

I printed out the attachment and keep it in the portable jump starter case I have in the back of our SSR.
I would like some of our electrical gurus to comment on removing the two fuses suggested to be removed. @Autoproof and others.
 

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SSR Believer
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3,623 Posts
I would like some of our electrical gurus to comment on removing the two fuses suggested to be removed. @Autoproof and others.
The guidance came from Mike Moro. I try not to add the @ because he's up to his rear in alligators (orders). More here:

 

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Registered
2004 SSR: Slingshot Yellow
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55 Posts
Of note is the RDM is working whether the windows, roof, hatch, etc are physically moving or not. The RDM is constantly running through its routines checking for Hall effect sensor failures, reference voltage values, interlocks, push-button status while managing comms with the other processors within the vehicle's network. EXAMPLE: A roof in its UP and latched position is actively reporting TRUE status from the roof latch switches, TRUE status for an extended condition from the main lift cylinder's Hall effect sensor amongst many other process signals that would be TRUE despite the roof not moving. Even the FALSE status signals are processed and compared to their required state. Invalid state of these signals would cause an alarm on the console and actually inhibit movement. Unless disconnected and/or failed the RDM is running if the vehicle is in RUN/ACC mode. I am lucky my vehicle's RDM is functional but I definitely will take heed of the warnings read here to be especially cautious/protective when jumping and such as described by those who have more experience, (Thanks).

Of course there are many mechanical and electro/hydraulic "wear" items that some might think will last longer with minimal usage while others claim Use-it or Lose-it. There are probably many conversations and experts within the SSR Fanatic Community who can give insights.
 

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Premium Member
05 aqua blur, the Blur 06 blue over silver the Streak
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756 Posts
I believe the only difference is that an 03 and 04 will not read the outside temperature for the console gauge in the 05 and 06.
 

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Premium Member
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115 Posts
We're cut from the same cloth Eddy. I know it's a fairly rare problem, but it is concerning and why I've been following the the threads on the topic for a couple of years now. I confess that I would have been one of those folks that would have bought one and squirreled it away when they were selling for <$500 had I known what I know now. Since they've crested $2200 or more (when they do show up) I'm a little less likely to do that. :sneaky:

I received this advice from a well-known expert here when I went to replace my battery recently:

"Remove two fuses, #28 for the RDM and #40 for the TBC to prevent any damage; both located in the interior fuse console behind the passenger seat."

I've never had to jumpstart our SSR and hopefully never will since it has a brand new battery and is always kept on a Deltran Battery Tender... but if I DO, I plan on removing those two fuses to be safe.

I printed out the attachment and keep it in the portable jump starter case I have in the back of our SSR.
I also remove the two relays 01 and 02. Was actually able to "reset" or reboot the RDM by pulling and replacing them. That only worked a couple of times before the RDM finally crapped out for good.
 

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22 Posts
So you just keep the top up, since the RDM doesn't work... How long does it take to manually raise or lower the top.. or is that not recommended.. My R came with a little tool..
 

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Premium Member
2006 Pacific Blue 6 speed Custom
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5,708 Posts
There is a guy in Florida that manually lowered and raises his top all the time. I watched him do it and it seems to work well but you do need two people. Maybe one of the Rgang has some info about it. I don't recall ever seeing a thread about it.
 
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