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My 05 Black Asphalt 6 speed should arrive later this week. Any technical guys out there with some sound advice?
Thanks Steve
Thanks Steve
Recommended Engine Break In
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Now, I'm sure there will be folks that will disagree with the following, but here is what I would do....
For the first five hundred miles, take it easy. No WOT blasts or revving the engine up at 5k or more on the tach.
Drive at various speeds and conditions; don't use cruise control for extended periods. The real key here is variablility.... some steady cruising and daily driving in traffic under a variety of conditions is best. Running errands is also real good as it heat cycles things real well. If you are going to do most of your miles on the highway, then vary your speed alot and don't use the cruise control.
After 500 miles, do an oil change. Now, your engine is broken in and you can do some WOT blasts and drive it however you want.
At 3,000 miles, do another oil change. From here on out change at about 6,000 miles OR when your oil starts to look a medium brown color (like stained oak).
I'm sure some will say this is overkill, but I prefer to err on the conservative side....
For the first five hundred miles, take it easy. No WOT blasts or revving the engine up at 5k or more on the tach.
Drive at various speeds and conditions; don't use cruise control for extended periods. The real key here is variablility.... some steady cruising and daily driving in traffic under a variety of conditions is best. Running errands is also real good as it heat cycles things real well. If you are going to do most of your miles on the highway, then vary your speed alot and don't use the cruise control.
After 500 miles, do an oil change. Now, your engine is broken in and you can do some WOT blasts and drive it however you want.
At 3,000 miles, do another oil change. From here on out change at about 6,000 miles OR when your oil starts to look a medium brown color (like stained oak).
I'm sure some will say this is overkill, but I prefer to err on the conservative side....
B
bayou runner
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break in
The first 500 miles you need to take it easy no WFO and no one steady speed then you can get down on it more and more as the miles add up, to say around 1500/2000... That a bunch of BS about break it in like you want it to run later(break it in fast and hard and it'll be fast or baby it and it'll be slow) thats a bunch of crap, the motor needs it break in time so everything seats good.....
The first 500 miles you need to take it easy no WFO and no one steady speed then you can get down on it more and more as the miles add up, to say around 1500/2000... That a bunch of BS about break it in like you want it to run later(break it in fast and hard and it'll be fast or baby it and it'll be slow) thats a bunch of crap, the motor needs it break in time so everything seats good.....
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1960???
I was not even a thought in my parents eyes in 1960 . However, I like your advice. I may wait a couple of hundred miles, but yea WFO sounds good. I can't wait to get up in the morning and actually look forward to driving again. I had a Porsche (volkswagon) 914 2.0 when I was 17. My dad said, "son, you can't afford that foriegn car. " Dropped every penny I had saved in my youth. WFO everywhere. With the exception of almost killing myself when I totalled it and absolutely going broke a year later in MX costs, it was worth the memories I have today. Then for the next 32 years, I drove suvs and trucks, flew really big airplanes and now at 40 I am almost dead of boredom. Called dad yesterday and told him of my dive back into speed with a little muscle. He said, "Son, its about time, you can afford it" Gotta love Dad. Anyway, SSR should be shipped here this weekend. And by the way, the old retired marine fighter pilot was very pleased I bought American.
Thanks for the advice
Steve
I was not even a thought in my parents eyes in 1960 . However, I like your advice. I may wait a couple of hundred miles, but yea WFO sounds good. I can't wait to get up in the morning and actually look forward to driving again. I had a Porsche (volkswagon) 914 2.0 when I was 17. My dad said, "son, you can't afford that foriegn car. " Dropped every penny I had saved in my youth. WFO everywhere. With the exception of almost killing myself when I totalled it and absolutely going broke a year later in MX costs, it was worth the memories I have today. Then for the next 32 years, I drove suvs and trucks, flew really big airplanes and now at 40 I am almost dead of boredom. Called dad yesterday and told him of my dive back into speed with a little muscle. He said, "Son, its about time, you can afford it" Gotta love Dad. Anyway, SSR should be shipped here this weekend. And by the way, the old retired marine fighter pilot was very pleased I bought American.
Thanks for the advice
Steve
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1,783 Posts
Read the Manual!
I know that is against our nature, but GM does have a reccommended break in procedure that must have some kind of engineering princple behind it. Remember that you have a hard ring material trying to seat in against a softer cylider wall. Break it in fast and it may run fast, run through oil fast that is. And don't forget the brakes. Same reasoning applies. I read the manual and did what it said and yes, the first 500 mi were torture since I was on a road trip from Auburn, IL to Northern Calif. But I have the peace of mind that just maybe the rings, rod bearings, and other moving parts had a chance to get used to each other in a friendly environment. For what it's worth. John317
P.S. now I run it up to 6000 in 1st and power shift into 2nd every chance I get because I love to hear those Goodyears bark!!
I know that is against our nature, but GM does have a reccommended break in procedure that must have some kind of engineering princple behind it. Remember that you have a hard ring material trying to seat in against a softer cylider wall. Break it in fast and it may run fast, run through oil fast that is. And don't forget the brakes. Same reasoning applies. I read the manual and did what it said and yes, the first 500 mi were torture since I was on a road trip from Auburn, IL to Northern Calif. But I have the peace of mind that just maybe the rings, rod bearings, and other moving parts had a chance to get used to each other in a friendly environment. For what it's worth. John317
P.S. now I run it up to 6000 in 1st and power shift into 2nd every chance I get because I love to hear those Goodyears bark!!
Drive it like you stole it! These motors come assembled and "burnt in" before installation into these vehicles. While I woouldn't do WOT the first 500, thats about about the length I would baby it.
Drove 750 miles the day I bought mine...drove another 750 two days later...WOT at least once an hour! I now have 11k miles...it's been a fun 4 months. 25% oil life left, guess I'll schedule a change next week.
Drove 750 miles the day I bought mine...drove another 750 two days later...WOT at least once an hour! I now have 11k miles...it's been a fun 4 months. 25% oil life left, guess I'll schedule a change next week.
Pretty much the exact same method I usually use on my cars. But... if you can't resist temptation and drop your foot in it a few times, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it either. Most guys who put new LS6 motors in their SCCA T1 class Z06s just take them straight to the track with zero break in.Donna & John said:
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Thanks for the tips, I am following the recommended break in for 90% of my driving. The other 10% I consider "training irregularities" for the advancement of 6-speed training and mental health science!
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Drive the hell out of it, it is meant to be run right out the box. The break-in recommendation was published by GM back when the first LS1's came out and they were having trouble with the rings not sealing. They changed the ring material and the way the bores are honed so it isnt a worry anymore.
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