[BassClef3]

Took two days to unmount my driver's side lift cylinder and only 30 minutes for the passenger side. This included having to slightly deform the interior side of the lower pin travel path even after removal of the thick foam. I now have two cylinders to get rebuilt but still attached to the pump via the affiliated hydraulics. I may have missed them but I have not seen any detailed video(s)/posting(s) that describe the disconnect at cylinder process. I do see the spring "horseshoe: clips but how do I release them to allow removal?

My understanding is they have to be slid back and then the hydraulics can be pulled directly out from their 0-ring connection point.

BassClef3
2004 Slingshot Yellow

 

[Mike in AZ]

slide the clip way from the hose fitting. They are seated pretty tight, so you need to be patient, but firm. Lots of different tools can be employed to do this. My own preference is a pair of small needle nose pliers (with good tips) with one leg on the rounded part of the clip and the other on the body of the cylinder. DON’T LOOSE THE CLIP!!!!

 

[BassClef3]

Mike,

Thanks for the quick response.

So there is no locking mechanism on the clip beyond the tight fit into the slide rail? I don't want to force the clip if I need to release it somehow before sliding.

Just making sure before I apply the needle nose pliers.

 

[Mike in AZ]

No, there is no locking mechanism. Usually, there is a little bit of yellow paint that acts as a locking mechanism. You can also use a small flat blade screwdriver to “push” from the open side of the clip to get it started. You have to be careful to not booger up anything, though.

Once the round part of the clip comes clear of the end of the cylinder, you can also use a small 90 degree end of a scribe to pull the clip off by the rounded end.

Patience and perseverance……. Nothing else prevails……..

 

[Stlhotrod]

I use a small flat bladed screw driver on one end and the other I can get in with a small pick that has the end bent at a 90 degree angle. Each person probably figures out what they have in their own tool box to work best for them, so your results maybe different due to what tools you have.

 

[Firetruck]

Make sure you mark your upper or lower hose with some painters tape so it goes back in the right location. The same for the magnet switches on the passenger side.

 

[Dinerman]

I use a pair needle nose modified.

 

[Mike in AZ]

I use a pair needle nose modified.


View attachment 613123
View attachment 613122

I like it……. I have a “donor” set of needle nose that will be joining the other “special tools”……. Thanks Frank.

 

[Stlhotrod]

Thanks a lot to people like Mike and Frank. They have done more than a few sets and are passing along their knowledge to those of us who are learning or maybe learning on their first set. 2 Things I learned was patients and take your time. Walk away from it and come back later if you need to. I ended up pinching a O ring on my first set because I did not have it lined up straight when I put the line in. I will be more careful on the next set.

Again thank you to those who pass along their tips tricks and experience

 

[Firetruck]

Thanks a lot to people like Mike and Frank. They have done more than a few sets and are passing along their knowledge to those of us who are learning or maybe learning on their first set. 2 Things I learned was patients and take your time. Walk away from it and come back later if you need to. I ended up pinching a O ring on my first set because I did not have it lined up straight when I put the line in. I will be more careful on the next set.

Again thank you to those who pass along their tips tricks and experience

Here's another tip I learned from the R gang.... Put the O ring on a toothpick, them put the toothpick to tip into end of hydraulic line. Simply roll the O ring onto the end of the line then. Easy peasy!