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RetroCarGuy530
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been hearing some interesting roof rattles from the passenger side of my 05 SSR since purchase. In the past week or so the roof has started producing some metal-on-rubber style squeaks from the same side of the roof.

I tried lubricating the roof seals with a silicone spray, as I have done on all of my other cars/vans. The noise would decrease for a very short time and then get MUCH worse.

I went to the Chevy dealership in Folsom CA (not the local one in Shingle Springs due to the bad blood I have with them over my former 03 SSR) and purchased some silicone lubricant in a 2oz jar. I applied that to the seals last night and the metal-on-rubber squeaks were virtually eliminated. I still had a small amount of metal-on-rubber movement.

I read ALL of the threads again this morning relating to roof noises. I examined the seals and rubber bumpers for the roof and tonneau cover over the roof storage area and I found two interesting things. The rubber stopper on the passenger side for the main roof hinge did not have any real contact with the grease that I applied to the other side (where the white plastic shim piece is attached). I also found the small round rubber stopper for the roof tonneau cover on the passenger side (near the front of the bed cover) had zero contact with the cover (no grease was on the cover nor was the grease moved on the top of the rubber stopper.

Out came my 13mm wrench and I adjusted both rubber stoppers so contact was being made by both stoppers just like the ones on the driver's side of the roof.

I drove my SSR to the bank this morning and this time there appeared to be NO metal-on-rubber squeak nor was there any roof metalic roof rattle.

OMG, I'm so freakin happy at this point since the service department at the selling dealership stated they wouldn't even look at the rattle since "hardtops make noises"...
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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1,610 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I just returned from a 180 mile round trip in the SSR. It was quite enjoyable this time since the roof did not produce any odd knocking noises nor any metal-on-rubber squeaks. I could never get my 03 SSR to be as quiet as my 05 SSR was before my adjustments and now my 05 SSR is whisper quiet while driving (as much as any truck is quiet while driving).

I'm looking forward to speaking with the service tech manager I demonstrated my roof noise to so I can "pass along" the knowledge on how to repair noises in those pesky "hardtops that always make noises". :thumbs
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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1,610 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Here's what I did:

1) Put the roof down (fully) but leave the roof storage bay tonneau cover open

2) Apply silicon based lubricate to small rubber stopper (dime sized) near the very back of the roof tonneau cover opening (very long threaded bolt with a dime sized rubber bumper on the top of it)

3) Locate the 50 cent piece sized rubber stopper inside of the roof storage area that is present on the front "wall" of the roof storage area. The rubber stopper is present on the front side of a hinge that folds when the roof is lifted to its upright position. The corresponding piece to this rubber stopper will likely be a place on the opposite side of the hinge where a white plastic piece (shim) is present (glued). Apply the lubricate on the rubber stopper in an amount where you can place some small swirls into the lubricant for contact testing.

4) Raise the roof to its fully up and locked position including the closure of the roof storage tonneau cover to its fully down and locked position (wait for the two chimes).

5) Put the roof down again so the roof is stored in the storage bay but the roof storage bay tonneau cover is still left open.

6) Examine the lubricant on the rubber stoppers. You're looking for changes in the appearance of the lubricant on the rubber stoppers that would indicate contact.

7) The dime sized rubber stopper (rear) should show some small amount of smearing due to contact with the roof storage bay tonneau cover. Look at the tonneau cover (on the bottom side / near where the hinge mounts to the tonneau cover / at the rear of the hinge). You should see a small amount of lubricant that has rubbed off on the metal. If no contact has been made (lubricant fully untouched on the rubber stopper), use a 13mm wrench to loosen the lock nut at the based of the long threaded bolt. Screw the bolt 1/4 turn (for each test) counter clockwise to raise the rubber stopper. When the rubber stopper lubricant has been transfered during the test, STOP at that height. Make sure to use the 13mm wrench to lock the bolt/rubber stopper in the correct place. SMALL adjustments are best to avoid excessive pressure on the roof storage bay tonneau cover. The objective is to make initial (light) contact.

8) Examine the lubricant on the 50 cent sized rubber stopper (front of the storage bay) for contact with the white plastic shim area on the corresponding side of the hinge. In theory, this was adjusted in the factory for proper contact so it's VERY unlikely you'll need to move this one at all. I found no contact was taking place between the rubber stopper and the plastic shim (no lubricant transfer taking place when the roof was put into its fully upright and locked position). My situatuion must be considered an unusual and abnormal one. Again, the objective here is to make light contact between the rubber stopper (50 cent piece sized, approx.) and the white plastic shim. If you decided no contact has been made, use a 13mm wrench to loosen the lock nut (on the front side of where the stopper screws into). The wrench will need a slight bend in it (boxed end of the wrench) to properly get on the nut. Loosen the locknut and then turn the rubber stopper in 1/4 turn increments (mark your rubber stopper with a grease pen or similar to note its original position) in the counter clockwise direction. Tighten the lock nut for each test. When there is notable lubricant transfer from the rubber stopper on the plastic shim STOP at this point. The objective is to obtain light contact between the rubber stopper and the plastic (white and very thin) shim.

9) Make sure you use the 13mm wrench to once again tighten anything you've loosened during this procedure.

10) As with any repair statements: you do this at your own risk.

11) If you are not comfortable with these instructions then do not perform the tests and adjustments.

I was very amazed that I had both rubber stoppers making absolutely no contact at all on my SSR (passenger side). The same rubber stoppers on the driver's side were making contact without any changes. For my SSR, it took about 1/2 turn on the rear rubber stopper and about 1/3 of a turn on the front (large) rubber stopper before they made any sort of contact (light lubricant smearing was observed).

The only time my roof makes any sort of noise (now) is if the bump I'm driving over is EXTREMELY rough. Before I made these adjustments, a simple ripple in the road would produce a very annoying "knock" noise from the passenger side.

Remember, small changes are best when making these adjustments!!

I hope that helps.
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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1,610 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Here are some pictures relating to the rubber stopper adjustments I outlined above. The fourth picture is of the felt padding that I added to the mat at the bottom of the roof storage bay to help protect the roof since the mat had been cut by the roof.
 

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Mine rallteld in the same manner. Thre is any earier fix, that the dealer did. The rubber dognut on the alignment pin was pulled off and turned over. It gets sandwiched to hold the latche mechanism. As it gets compressed it lets the latch have a little play. Mine has been quiet for 3 months since it was done.
 

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Well we had high winds today and I had her out and all of a sudden I got a whistle coming from the driver side in the forward pillar area that sounded like an Oscar Meyer weener whistle, it was THAT loud in the cabin. Im going to check the rubber for dirt and lube it up or its off to Mr Goodwrench.
 

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Rattle noises

shiftz33 said:
Here are some pictures relating to the rubber stopper adjustments I outlined above. The fourth picture is of the felt padding that I added to the mat at the bottom of the roof storage bay to help protect the roof since the mat had been cut by the roof.
Hey shifts,
Thanks for the investigation into this problem. Mine is making that type of noise and with your detailed instruction, I am going to check this out.
Good job! :thumbs :cool
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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Discussion Starter #12
More info

With the heat of the last few days in the Sacramento area, I started to put the top up to avoid being cooked during the mid day sun.

The roof did not make any noise until it was baked a bit in the hot sun. I once again heard an occasional "knock" noise from my 06 SSR's roof. I had heard this "knock" noise before but only on very warm days. (I can only take so much direct mid day sun without getting a sun burn no matter how much sun block I put on).

I had already performed the adjustments noted earlier in this thread, but with the heat of the last few days, it seems some more adjustments were necessary to get rid of the "knock" noise on warm days.

Before going into the heat of the day, I used one of my point gap feeler gauges and found that my driver's side fifty cent sized rubber stopper had a 0.005 inch gap for 90 percent of its surface area. I could not insert the same thickness gauge on the passenger side.

I ended up backing off both rubber stoppers and adjusting them both until they once again contacted the roof hinges. I then adjusted them just a bit tighter to close down the gap over their entire surface area. I drove the SSR in the heat a bit and checked again and sure enough a small (sub 0.005 inch) gap was present. I adjusted them again (another 1/8 turn) to eliminate the gap again. I checked/observed the roof operation to make sure there was no additional stress on the front section's latches (no odd noises heard).

I drove around in 102+ heat again yesterday without one knock noise.
 

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I am getting continuous vibrating noise from the secondary tonneau cover that is tucked in the roof compartment when the the hardtop is up. I checked and there is no definite mechanism to stop the cover from vibrating. Any solutions are welcome.
 

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RetroCarGuy530
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Discussion Starter #15
I am getting continuous vibrating noise from the secondary tonneau cover that is tucked in the roof compartment when the the hardtop is up. I checked and there is no definite mechanism to stop the cover from vibrating. Any solutions are welcome.
There's not much you can do to hold it in place, but I have put some felt padding on the bottom side of the this cover (in the grooves where the lid contacts the metal brackets it touches while stored). That seems to help reduce if not eliminate some noises.
 

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I am getting continuous vibrating noise from the secondary tonneau cover that is tucked in the roof compartment when the the hardtop is up. I checked and there is no definite mechanism to stop the cover from vibrating. Any solutions are welcome.
When was the last time you had an front end alignment and all four wheels balance? Wouldn't surprise me if the rear wheels are off balance.
 

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Here's what I did:

1) Put the roof down (fully) but leave the roof storage bay tonneau cover open

2) Apply silicon based lubricate to small rubber stopper (dime sized) near the very back of the roof tonneau cover opening (very long threaded bolt with a dime sized rubber bumper on the top of it)

3) Locate the 50 cent piece sized rubber stopper inside of the roof storage area that is present on the front "wall" of the roof storage area. The rubber stopper is present on the front side of a hinge that folds when the roof is lifted to its upright position. The corresponding piece to this rubber stopper will likely be a place on the opposite side of the hinge where a white plastic piece (shim) is present (glued). Apply the lubricate on the rubber stopper in an amount where you can place some small swirls into the lubricant for contact testing.

4) Raise the roof to its fully up and locked position including the closure of the roof storage tonneau cover to its fully down and locked position (wait for the two chimes).

5) Put the roof down again so the roof is stored in the storage bay but the roof storage bay tonneau cover is still left open.

6) Examine the lubricant on the rubber stoppers. You're looking for changes in the appearance of the lubricant on the rubber stoppers that would indicate contact.

7) The dime sized rubber stopper (rear) should show some small amount of smearing due to contact with the roof storage bay tonneau cover. Look at the tonneau cover (on the bottom side / near where the hinge mounts to the tonneau cover / at the rear of the hinge). You should see a small amount of lubricant that has rubbed off on the metal. If no contact has been made (lubricant fully untouched on the rubber stopper), use a 13mm wrench to loosen the lock nut at the based of the long threaded bolt. Screw the bolt 1/4 turn (for each test) counter clockwise to raise the rubber stopper. When the rubber stopper lubricant has been transfered during the test, STOP at that height. Make sure to use the 13mm wrench to lock the bolt/rubber stopper in the correct place. SMALL adjustments are best to avoid excessive pressure on the roof storage bay tonneau cover. The objective is to make initial (light) contact.

8) Examine the lubricant on the 50 cent sized rubber stopper (front of the storage bay) for contact with the white plastic shim area on the corresponding side of the hinge. In theory, this was adjusted in the factory for proper contact so it's VERY unlikely you'll need to move this one at all. I found no contact was taking place between the rubber stopper and the plastic shim (no lubricant transfer taking place when the roof was put into its fully upright and locked position). My situatuion must be considered an unusual and abnormal one. Again, the objective here is to make light contact between the rubber stopper (50 cent piece sized, approx.) and the white plastic shim. If you decided no contact has been made, use a 13mm wrench to loosen the lock nut (on the front side of where the stopper screws into). The wrench will need a slight bend in it (boxed end of the wrench) to properly get on the nut. Loosen the locknut and then turn the rubber stopper in 1/4 turn increments (mark your rubber stopper with a grease pen or similar to note its original position) in the counter clockwise direction. Tighten the lock nut for each test. When there is notable lubricant transfer from the rubber stopper on the plastic shim STOP at this point. The objective is to obtain light contact between the rubber stopper and the plastic (white and very thin) shim.

9) Make sure you use the 13mm wrench to once again tighten anything you've loosened during this procedure.

10) As with any repair statements: you do this at your own risk.

11) If you are not comfortable with these instructions then do not perform the tests and adjustments.

I was very amazed that I had both rubber stoppers making absolutely no contact at all on my SSR (passenger side). The same rubber stoppers on the driver's side were making contact without any changes. For my SSR, it took about 1/2 turn on the rear rubber stopper and about 1/3 of a turn on the front (large) rubber stopper before they made any sort of contact (light lubricant smearing was observed).

The only time my roof makes any sort of noise (now) is if the bump I'm driving over is EXTREMELY rough. Before I made these adjustments, a simple ripple in the road would produce a very annoying "knock" noise from the passenger side.

Remember, small changes are best when making these adjustments!!

I hope that helps.
hope this makes it into the library
 

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Premium Member
2006 Redline FPR 6 Speed
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1,010 Posts
Here's what I did:

1) Put the roof down (fully) but leave the roof storage bay tonneau cover open

2) Apply silicon based lubricate to small rubber stopper (dime sized) near the very back of the roof tonneau cover opening (very long threaded bolt with a dime sized rubber bumper on the top of it)

3) Locate the 50 cent piece sized rubber stopper inside of the roof storage area that is present on the front "wall" of the roof storage area. The rubber stopper is present on the front side of a hinge that folds when the roof is lifted to its upright position. The corresponding piece to this rubber stopper will likely be a place on the opposite side of the hinge where a white plastic piece (shim) is present (glued). Apply the lubricate on the rubber stopper in an amount where you can place some small swirls into the lubricant for contact testing.

4) Raise the roof to its fully up and locked position including the closure of the roof storage tonneau cover to its fully down and locked position (wait for the two chimes).

5) Put the roof down again so the roof is stored in the storage bay but the roof storage bay tonneau cover is still left open.

6) Examine the lubricant on the rubber stoppers. You're looking for changes in the appearance of the lubricant on the rubber stoppers that would indicate contact.

7) The dime sized rubber stopper (rear) should show some small amount of smearing due to contact with the roof storage bay tonneau cover. Look at the tonneau cover (on the bottom side / near where the hinge mounts to the tonneau cover / at the rear of the hinge). You should see a small amount of lubricant that has rubbed off on the metal. If no contact has been made (lubricant fully untouched on the rubber stopper), use a 13mm wrench to loosen the lock nut at the based of the long threaded bolt. Screw the bolt 1/4 turn (for each test) counter clockwise to raise the rubber stopper. When the rubber stopper lubricant has been transfered during the test, STOP at that height. Make sure to use the 13mm wrench to lock the bolt/rubber stopper in the correct place. SMALL adjustments are best to avoid excessive pressure on the roof storage bay tonneau cover. The objective is to make initial (light) contact.

8) Examine the lubricant on the 50 cent sized rubber stopper (front of the storage bay) for contact with the white plastic shim area on the corresponding side of the hinge. In theory, this was adjusted in the factory for proper contact so it's VERY unlikely you'll need to move this one at all. I found no contact was taking place between the rubber stopper and the plastic shim (no lubricant transfer taking place when the roof was put into its fully upright and locked position). My situatuion must be considered an unusual and abnormal one. Again, the objective here is to make light contact between the rubber stopper (50 cent piece sized, approx.) and the white plastic shim. If you decided no contact has been made, use a 13mm wrench to loosen the lock nut (on the front side of where the stopper screws into). The wrench will need a slight bend in it (boxed end of the wrench) to properly get on the nut. Loosen the locknut and then turn the rubber stopper in 1/4 turn increments (mark your rubber stopper with a grease pen or similar to note its original position) in the counter clockwise direction. Tighten the lock nut for each test. When there is notable lubricant transfer from the rubber stopper on the plastic shim STOP at this point. The objective is to obtain light contact between the rubber stopper and the plastic (white and very thin) shim.

9) Make sure you use the 13mm wrench to once again tighten anything you've loosened during this procedure.

10) As with any repair statements: you do this at your own risk.

11) If you are not comfortable with these instructions then do not perform the tests and adjustments.

I was very amazed that I had both rubber stoppers making absolutely no contact at all on my SSR (passenger side). The same rubber stoppers on the driver's side were making contact without any changes. For my SSR, it took about 1/2 turn on the rear rubber stopper and about 1/3 of a turn on the front (large) rubber stopper before they made any sort of contact (light lubricant smearing was observed).

The only time my roof makes any sort of noise (now) is if the bump I'm driving over is EXTREMELY rough. Before I made these adjustments, a simple ripple in the road would produce a very annoying "knock" noise from the passenger side.

Remember, small changes are best when making these adjustments!!

I hope that helps.
shiftz33:

On 11-12-05 your authored a step by step How To for adjusting the [4] stops on the tonneau cover for the roof. I want to THANK YOU for taking the time 9 years ago to provide these instructions. I am a 6-month newbie owner of a 2006 Redline FPR 6-speed. Since getting it a rattle or rattles coming from the tonneau cover area have been my companion on all rough roads. BUT NO MORE, thanks totally to you and your instructions.

Only [2] things I varied from, I used handcream instead of grease, wipes right off! And I made the adjustments with the top completely up, stopping the moment it locked so the tonneau cover remained open. I was concerned I would hit the backside part of the top with a wrench, scarring the paint, since the working space is less with the top down.

I coated the [4] stops with handcream, closed the cover, letting it "chime" to be certain it was closed entirely, opened the cover, stopping before the top unlatched; looked at the stops and none had smear marks! Loosened the stops and raised them 1/4 turn each as you suggested. Test closed/opened the tonneau & the small stops were perfect. No smear on the 50 cent stops though. Continued to adjust them numerous times and finally got contact but only on the front forward edge of the black metal hinges. BTW, my R does not have white plastic pieces as the contact-point for the 50 cent stops. The [2] parallel steel black hinges on each side make direct contact with the 50 cent stops. I made 2-3 more 1/4 turn [out] adjustments and finally got total contact. Wiped off the handcream and went for my first-ever "quiet" ride in the R. Makes it a completely different experience for me.

If YOU are at the International Rally in Springfield in 2015, you along with TrucknRod get the biggest Diet Pepsi's on me! His "find & fix" for a Dash Rattle that is actually a Hood Rattle [Link Attached] that radiates through the cabin of the R as is loose stuff is in the dash, is equally awesome information for every R owner.

http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f4/dash-rattle-101353/#post1942377

Roof Rattle/Seal Squeaks & Dash Rattle should be Sticky and also included in the How To Do It Yourself posts.

I appreciate your research and cure! Bill
 
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