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Premium Member
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2,316 Posts
Has anyone seen,herd of, or used anything like this ??:nerd:


https://www.zzplus.shop/index.php?r...HwwYl_J-eLFu5RagYGG0iSMEGmLfw9ugdFVxw-Xun69ow

I hope it works...
:surprise:
I'd hold off on trying this till some time passes and you have more feedback. I just clicked on the site and they can't even spell words correctly on their site. Which leads me to believe the source is off shore/ overseas and what ya see is not at all what ya might get.:frown2:

To me, any reputable business would edit/review their on line site and ensure it was beyond fifth grade spelling level.:frown2:
 

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Premium Member
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682 Posts
Well Silly PUDDY, I did not know PUDDY rusted??????????????????????????. And especially a SSR. All kidding aside, You guys have a great XMAS, Buy more goodies for your R.
 

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RedHotSSR
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605 Posts
Chemical encapsulation

There are industrial products that you apply right over rusted metal. The product encapsulates / bonds the rust to the metal and after hardening the parts can be primed and painted. We used these on Commercial A/C/ systems where the frames of the evaporators could not be dismantled or completely cleaned to cover the rusting metal. Last for many many years. Severl manufactures not sure what I used it's was a long time ago.:smile2:


"Long may you run RUST free":grin2:
 

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Premium Member
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91 Posts
There are industrial products that you apply right over rusted metal. The product encapsulates / bonds the rust to the metal and after hardening the parts can be primed and painted. We used these on Commercial A/C/ systems where the frames of the evaporators could not be dismantled or completely cleaned to cover the rusting metal. Last for many many years. Severl manufactures not sure what I used it's was a long time ago.:smile2:


"Long may you run RUST free":grin2:
I just finished spraying any parts of my R's undercarriage that showed rust or just needed refreshment with an inexpensive product at your local ACE hardware store. "Rust Stop" comes in black satin, 15 oz. can & is easy to apply. I only wire brush loose rust or dirty areas & just spray. Did a beautiful job on my rear differential/axle area. Now, the really good news; It's around $5.00 a can & your labor rate is affordable. Goes a long way. Get a couple cans & you'll probably have some left over for other projects

Hope this is helpful,
"SJA"
 

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Premium Member
2006 Pacific Blue 6 speed Custom
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3,584 Posts
I know that @Mr. Bill addressed some rusting issues on the under carriage of his truck. He is one to do plenty of research first before doing anything to his truck! He seemed very happy with the end results. Perhaps he will chime in... Haven't seen him on the site lately however...
 

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Premium Member
2006 Redline FPR 6 Speed
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1,014 Posts
I know that @Mr. Bill addressed some rusting issues on the under carriage of his truck. He is one to do plenty of research first before doing anything to his truck! He seemed very happy with the end results. Perhaps he will chime in... Haven't seen him on the site lately however...
EVAPORUST will do the trick, biodegradable, magical stuff! Amazon for $19.60/gallon, auto parts stores have it also, maybe Harbor Freight. Depending on the amount of rust on the chassis, you will need 2 gallons. Must be patient and let it work. Severe rust areas will require much longer to remove but it will remove it. Easy to use, rust area must be kept "wet" with EVAPORUST for it to work. I used plastic grocery bags to cover the wet area, just tying them to each piece of the frame, rear end, wherever. Just follow the directions. Bill
 

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Premium Member
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230 Posts
Well sillyputty here is a site for your information. Locate the THREAD STARTER ON TIPS AND TRICKS. Scroll down to Post 18 and it will describe
complete instructions for a GREAT job. One you can walk away from and not look back. The only problem is, it requires manual labor. LAZYONE
 

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Premium Member
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960 Posts
Being an old aircooled VW fanatic years ago I always used POR15= Paint Over Rust. Sold by Eastwood Products in PA. This stuff is brush on right over rusted metal and absolutely works. I would wire brush or wire wheel VW floor pans, blow it off with compressed air and paint this on. Wear Gloves! Do Not get it on your skin and let it dry. Once hardened nothing will cut it. You will wear it for days or weeks. Seriously. I once laid on my creeper to brush it on my truck frame, I rolled around under the truck to cover any rust not knowing my belly was getting dripped on. It dried before I realized it was there.
I had a black belly for many days, I was just happy to be able to get the shirt off. also be very careful with the lid seal area on the paint can. If you get the paint in the recess and pound the lid on, you'll have to cut it off. Last tip if you use it, once you are all done and you're ready to put the can away gently fill the can with acetylene gas to displace any oxygen in the can and seal. This way you won't grow a skin on the top of the liquid while stored.
 

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Registered
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245 Posts
Being an old aircooled VW fanatic years ago I always used POR15= Paint Over Rust. Sold by Eastwood Products in PA. This stuff is brush on right over rusted metal and absolutely works. I would wire brush or wire wheel VW floor pans, blow it off with compressed air and paint this on. Wear Gloves! Do Not get it on your skin and let it dry. Once hardened nothing will cut it. You will wear it for days or weeks. Seriously. I once laid on my creeper to brush it on my truck frame, I rolled around under the truck to cover any rust not knowing my belly was getting dripped on. It dried before I realized it was there.
I had a black belly for many days, I was just happy to be able to get the shirt off. also be very careful with the lid seal area on the paint can. If you get the paint in the recess and pound the lid on, you'll have to cut it off. Last tip if you use it, once you are all done and you're ready to put the can away gently fill the can with acetylene gas to displace any oxygen in the can and seal. This way you won't grow a skin on the top of the liquid while stored.
I had to destroy the lid just to get it open. When I was finished I poured the remainder in a quart sealer jar and used propane -butane to displace the oxygen. Works for me and I can see whats inside and it's condition.
 

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245 Posts
Sillypuddy, that thing looks dangerous, you might need a firearms license to legally operate it. Laser beam and all, straight out of a SiFi movie. Just joking of course but I think Moscooter has the right idea. I've used POR 15 on a number of items and was very satisfied every time. Available in many colors and satin, gloss, or flat.
 

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Daily Driver
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8,949 Posts
The tool is real - it's a laser that literally burns the top surface off. Made by Clean Laser in Germany. But I can guarantee it's not cheap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEWKAMY0xsU

But that website is a scam.
Yeah, the website linked in the first post says $39 plus $10 shipping, then right under that it says free shipping on orders over $30.
Don't think it's the Clean Laser machine, the comments in your link says $80,000.
 

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Premium Member
2006 Redline FPR 6 Speed
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1,014 Posts
Sillypuddy, that thing looks dangerous, you might need a firearms license to legally operate it. Laser beam and all, straight out of a SiFi movie. Just joking of course but I think Moscooter has the right idea. I've used POR 15 on a number of items and was very satisfied every time. Available in many colors and satin, gloss, or flat.
Agree! Forgot to mention I put 2 coats of POR15 as directed and a top coat of satin Rust-Oleum, The POR15 is very toxic but rock solid. Frame looks like new, Also de-rusted the rear end as well. Touch stuff. Also, once you see how well Evaporust work you will find other things to use it on that are rusty. Will not work on anything other than rust. Bill
 

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Slingshot Rules!
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73,708 Posts
RUST is definitely an "aging" Vehicle's worst nightmare.

The Lookie Lous are a constant whenever The Bummer ('86 Jeep CJ-7) heads out for exercise. One of the first questions is concerning his background so when I respond, "Never been out of Southern Arizona." . . . the interest and even the offers to buy increase significantly. Prior to adopting The Bummer, I was absolutely clueless to the extent of the body damage directly related to Rust.

There has gotta be a solution for all the SSRs "up there" when it comes to the damage by Road Salt and/or Rust.

MY TWO CENTS WORTH . . .

! :banghead ! :nodno ! :banghead ! :nodno ! :banghead !
 

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Premium Member
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483 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thank goodness the inquire on this tool is not for Old Yella. It is for my old 94 Ford 1 ton that got into salt water sometime in it's early life. The info you guys have shared is priceless, Thank you, from Sillypuddy !!

:yellow::liebe011::seeya
 
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