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Enjoying life as it comes
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Discussion Starter #1
In regards to Blastfromthepasts' question in another thread about attaining the silver satin finish for grill bars.

Yes, it can be attained useing base clear techniques. Once you've come up with the proper satin stainless color, you need to apply a particular matte finish clear. I know that Sikkens has this clear available (part number escapes me at the moment). Many times this matte clear will need to be mixed proportionately with glossy clear to achieve the exact finish results. This may take numerous attempts to get it right. I use small test panels (6X10) to see which direction a color or clear matteness is proceding, while writing down the mixture and results of each test. After you have accomplished the correct results write them on a small piece of paper and attach it in the glove box with clear tape covering the entire piece of paper (good reason to write small and legible, or just type it). Make sure product info is also on it. That way if there is any reason to refinish that area you can accomplish it in a lot less time.

This process works well for the Chrysler products I've restored with the matte black hoods and fenders. These are not actually black, but are in fact a dark charcoal color. I recieved the original formula from Dupont (which happens to be a laquer product that is no longer available in the US, and possibly anywhere else either), and reformulated it for urethane base clear sytems. The correct matte finish was the most difficult to attain. Straight matte was too flat and 50/50 was too glossy, so yuo work onnjudgemnent of how far is it from too flat or too glossy and procede away from the closest one.

What I like about this matte clear is that it has the semi flat/gloss finish and if you get some wax/polish on it, you can wipe it off as you would the rest of the painted surfaces. Unlike some of the restoration shops that just apply it as a dry sprayed finish trying to attain the flat look. IMO it looks like an amature painted the black areas. Very rough, dry and textured to the point that if you get wax/polish on that surface you can't easily get it out of the texture. Not to mention that some paint companies that attempted to duplicate this matte black color used seven differant colors (yes, I have their formulas to) to achieve what the original color did with just three. Old nitrocellulose laquer (and acrylic laquer)sprayed and layed smooth even with a flattener additive. To achieve the same finish you have to use certain products. I know I'm picky about exact finishes on restorations, but some are not, and you can tell the differance when you set them side by side or even one end of a show to the other.

Enough of the paint seminar for today.

No matter what you drive, make it your own, and enjoy it. :cool :cheers :thumbs
 

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Las Vegas Mob
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1,371 Posts
Great info from a true paint "Guru"! Thanks FUZZY! :thumbs

Blast
 

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Premium Member
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9,381 Posts
Damn, Fuzzy

Wish Wisconsin wasn't so far away - I think I'd commission you to turn my SSR into the purple/tangerine beast I want to build.

We're doing great on this site - Fuzzy can do the paint seminars, Jim G takes care of the mechanical stuff, and the rest of us fill in with wheels, exhausts. chrome goodies, etc.

Ray
 

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Las Vegas Mob
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1,371 Posts
Flassh said:
Wish Wisconsin wasn't so far away
Boy, isn't that the truth! Someone with FUZZY's obvious skill AND dedication to quality is a rare commodity indeed! (I think I'll PM him and talk him into moving to Las Vegas - no hail, and paint dries like crazy at 115 degrees!) :thumbs

Blast
 
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