[twentygallons]

well, this is my first try to see what this community can do....
2 things,....... one, took the SSR to get new tires on it today, (All 4, same size as the originals)....watched them put them on, when I got back in the car and left I noticed the Speedo had stopped working, stopped at a parking lot, restarted the car speedo needle does the flop around bit like all the other gauge needles do but then goes to below zero. and does not even quiver while driving.. I KNOW that it was working just before I pulled into the lot of the store because I noted to my wife that we were doing 50 in a 35 zone... so, my question would be does the speedo drive off of a wheel? or did it just pick this time to die? and What do I do with it now?
second thing.... when goosed up to around 4000RPM (and I do not mean stomp on and hold the pedal) it makes a funny buzzing rattly sound. After driving it the 3 times I have, it smells like burning rubber. (NO, not the tires and was there before tires were changed) checked the alt belt, it was hot but not loose. OK Fanatics. help me diagnose the problems

Jay:blue:

 

[Dicktator]

SSR How to library: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

OEM stepper motors C5x168, JUNK!

Replace with X27-168, I did two clusters last week.

Dicktator

 

[Mike in AZ]

Wow, Jay.......

Let's separate the problems a bit.....

The speedo not working is coincidental to the tire change. All of the gauges are mechanically moved by individual small stepper motors. It's about the size of 3 quarters stacked up. Soldered into a circuit board and the indicating pointer is on a very small pivot driven by the motor. There are 5 of them on the board..... one under each pointer. All SSRs built before about May of 2005 are in the suspect population. I'm sure yours is in the group... There is no rhyme or reason for failure of the motor..... they just stop being what they should be.

Second issue..... If your bet is exceptionally hot, I would suspect that something is binding. Twist the tensioner and unhook the belt from the alternator. Spin each of the pulleys and accessories by hand to see if you find one that has a binding bearing. My first suspicion would be either the tensioner or the idler. Alternator should be heavy feeling, but free of binding. So should the water pump. The P/S pump will have the resistance of the pump, but should not be binding.

If all of these are OK, I would ask about the age and health of your battery. Perhaps it is loading the alternator a lot and creating heat. This is possible, but not very probable...

Let us know what you find,

Mike

 

[twentygallons]

Thank you for the answer, so please understand, I spent most of my life building OLD cars, I understand what it is that is needed here, but Not being in the Later model crowd other than this SSR, I have to ask....

Where do I get x27-168 stepper motors? dealer? any parts house or do I order from someone here on Fanatics?

I have a feeling I am going to be learning a whole new spread of terminology and work methods.

Thank you Dicktater and Mike in AZ I will be doing' the repair and checking the pulleys as soon as the Rain goes away, My storage garage is not big enough to work in. so it will have to wait till either the '54 BelAir is out of my main garage or till I can work outside.

 

[Mike in AZ]

Dick and I both have stepper motors on hand, since we both do repairs on speedometer clusters.

It's not difficult to replace them. You just have to be careful that you get the pointers back in the right spots...

Mike

 

[twentygallons]

send?

Ok, so lets try this. what if I pulled the cluster and sent the whole thing to you, would that work? I do not know if I have a steady enough hand anymore to manage to not fling solder all over the place. If so, where do I find addresses and costs? if we are going to replace stepper motors it seems prudent to replace all 5 at the same time?

thanks.
:blue: Jay

 

[xoxoxoBruce]

Mike is at Simple Engineering, You can PM Dick.
I had Dragon2U do mine, he's quick and cheap, you can PM him too.

 

[Mike in AZ]

Mike is at Simple Engineering, You can PM Dick.
I had Dragon2U do mine, he's quick and cheap, you can PM him too.

Right on target, Bruce......

I buy stepper motors from US Speedo for about $5 each. Dick and Mike (Dragon2U) get theirs from reliable sources as well...... I'm sure. I think we all do it for almost nothing, except for the cost of the parts and the return shipping.... If you do the math, it should be at least $50.... $25 for stepper motors and $25 for return shipping. Tips are always welcome :flag

Regards,

Mike

 

[Dragon2U]

Replacing the steppers is not a problem if you are careful with a soldering iron. Many many helpful tips on Youtube and many sources of parts on EBay, Amazon and elsewhere.

And as Mike, Dick and others pointed out, there are a quite a few locals and Fanatics that offer repair services as well :nerd:

Make sure you get the white case units, the black have known issues, one of many vendors, uslaully run $15 to $20 for 5-6 steppers.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-FITS-AZT...ash=item3f4152ba0c:g:vlgAAOSweWVXdT7~&vxp=mtr

 

[Shadowman]

Alternator clutch

"smells like burning rubber" There are two alternator types, one with a clutch that allows the alternator to free wheel when you nail it and engage during normal acceleration/operation. The old type without a clutch will allow some belt slippage when you nail it, thus possibly causing your burning rubber smell. If its not the tensioner or the idler, then I would look at possibly upgrading your alternator depending on which type you have and it's age (and your pocket book) . Regards

 

[Dicktator]

Thank you for the answer, so please understand, I spent most of my life building OLD cars, I understand what it is that is needed here, but Not being in the Later model crowd other than this SSR, I have to ask....

Where do I get x27-168 stepper motors? dealer? any parts house or do I order from someone here on Fanatics?

I have a feeling I am going to be learning a whole new spread of terminology and work methods.

Thank you Dicktater and Mike in AZ I will be doing' the repair and checking the pulleys as soon as the Rain goes away, My storage garage is not big enough to work in. so it will have to wait till either the '54 BelAir is out of my main garage or till I can work outside.

I too, worked on old cars, my first was 1938 Ford!

IF you can do electronic soldering then you should be OK. Heat, Tip, play big roll plus type of solder.

Dicktator

1. I was sent PC board from a DIY that was very damaged
2. Not good soldering.
3. So Bad, had to take it my local Speedometer Shop and he said "I'll try to save it".
4. He was able to save it.
5. That is me soldering PC board.

 

[twentygallons]

Yeah, That looks like what I would end up doing nowadays, hand is just not nearly as steady as it used to be, I used to be able pull a pinstripe the entire length of a body without even a single weave
but nowadays I would need to disguise it as 'modern art'. lol

I will most likely send the panel to Mike in AZ just have to get a day or so to get it out.

Thank you for the reply.
Old cars? I have most likely built over 500 cars in the past. All customs or hot rods. Been doing old cars, Customs and Hot rods for over 50 years. ever watch A&E channel? ever watch a program called BAD INK? I built and painted the original intro car for my son in law, he rented it to the producers for the first 3 episodes, Black '61 thunderbird, used to be a hardtop, but changed it to a Roadster, All metalwork. I have cars in Australia, Alaska, Norway, Dubai, ALL over the USA, last 3 years I built 3- 54 belair hardtops, a 49 chevy, 2 -47 chevy sedan deliveries, a '27 T roadster. very tired of working on stuff, so That is why the SSR, first day and I have to replace the stepper motors, had to replace all 4 tires, and I am getting a Hot rubber smell when I drive it, no, not rear tires, advisors think it may be one of the belt driven accessories, oh, and I need to find out why it will not accept fuel very well. all said and done, I am glad I have the SSR. and will enjoy putting miles on it this coming year, putting down my wrenches and welder and dragging the camera and equipment out of storage, think I will go back to photography.

 

[xoxoxoBruce]

There are just enough optional upgrades to keep you from getting bored.
Any changes, updates, or repairs you do make to your truck, you have the skills and equipment to document properly to help others. :cheers

 

[AquaBlur05]

I'm about to remove my cluster because my speedometer is only working when it wants to, lol. Any tips on how to remove the 3 gauges attached to the center console? I would like to get those speedo motors replaced as well since my battery volts reading is crazy occasionally as well.

 

[sweet34]

Wow.....Nice work twentygallons. I was in old street rods and customs myself. Never did body and paint but I did all the mechanicals and wiring. I know what you mean by not having that steady hand anymore.

I still own and drive my chopped '34 Ford 3-Window Coupe.:smile2:

Check out my Garage photos on the left.

 

[AquaBlur05]

Any advise on how to remove the gauge cluster from the center console?

 

[Dicktator]

On my SSR How to Library, FREE!!

Link: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Look up "CLUSTER REMOVAL"

Dicktator

I just repaired a cluster for Dimmitt Chevy, Ultra Violet they sold with 16,000 miles, nice truck.

 

[AquaBlur05]

POD removal

Thanks for the instructions, but I am referring to the POD that is located on top of the center console. Any tips?

On my SSR How to Library, FREE!!

Link: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Look up "CLUSTER REMOVAL"

Dicktator

I just repaired a cluster for Dimmitt Chevy, Ultra Violet they sold with 16,000 miles, nice truck.

 

[river_rat]

Double up a towel and lay it over the pod to protect it and the ash tray door above. On the 03-05, the pod is held down by two clips and two tabs. The tabs are located at the back of the pod (toward the front of the truck) and hold down that portion of the pod. You don't have to worry about the tabs other than know they are there when you reinstall. The clips are located about in line with the actual gauge faces. Slip your fingers under the pod on both sides in line with the gauge faces and pull directly upward. I generally use my thumbs to push downward on the tunnel while lifting upward with my fingers. The clips can be stubborn and difficult to release. Do not pull upward near the tips (ears) of the pod as you can break them. Once released, slightly lift and pull the pod toward you out from under the two tabs. Release the connector.