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i was wondering if anybody out there has found a way to bring down the temp she seems to run real warm i would like to cool her down?
 

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Check post

You may want to look at the "160 Thermostat for 2004 + trucks" posts to check what others have said about the temperatures for our engines. :flag
 

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unless you are loosing coolant in a boil_over why change any thing todays engines are designed to run at higher temps
 

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Running Hot?

Mine runs hot (supposedly?) like everyone else's. I've always assumed that it's supposed to be that way. Last weekend, I took the trip from Flagstaff to Sedona and back with the high temperature at about 88 degrees in Sedona. On the way back up the hill, even the slightest grade (at 25 to 45 mph) caused the temperature gauge to head on up toward 260+. It would do this in no time at all, and would drop back down to 215 as soon as I would hit a level stretch.

This makes me wonder if the cooling system is adequate at lower speeds? Weeks earlier on the way to Flagstaff across the Mojave desert, the 108 degree heat didn't seem to bother it at all (at 82 mph).

Could you folks, that know more about this than I, educate me as to what is going on? Is it just as simple as more air across the radiator at higher speeds cools it better, even though it's 20 degrees hotter air? Is it really supposed to run this hot, or is it because of a compromise with an electric fan and radiator that are undersized since that's all they had room for?

I remember reading a post a while back from someone who upgraded his cooling system with larger components (from a vette, I think). If he could do this, why not the factory? Or maybe it just doesn't need to be bigger? :confused
 

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Some temp is good

Chevrolet must feel temps up to 226 must be good since they do not turn, even the slow speed fan, on until 226. The high speed portion then turns on at 235 at which time it should start cooling off (with the A/C OFF.) :flag
 

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Runnin' hot

Ours (serial #286) runs hot. One evening coming back from a car show running on a flat road with no traffic in 70 degree temperature it 'cooked'.... basically pegged the temp needle and put the engine into the 'limp mode'. The dealer spent 2 days on the phone with Detroit and found (he says) that the thermostat was defective and replaced same. I don't know what it's rated at.

These things run hot all the time as the posts above noted. I'm really sensitive to it like when you get in traffic where there's road construction on the freeway, the needle really spikes up.

At the Woodward Dream Cruise in Detroit, the SSR Team said that it's okay (???) but the new '05's with the 390 HP 6 liter Corvette engines all had very 'Rube Goldberg' type foam blocking all around the top of the radiator to keep air from going over it and missing the radiator. That may be something that needs to be retro-fitted on the '03 & '04's.

By the way, my wife has just over 7000 miles now.
 

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You're going to have to trade you wife in before she gets "miled out" :lol :lol :lol
 
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To add to the problem. I picked up my SSR two weeks ago. It has the added dial pack infront of the stifter. That gives the trany temp. Talk about HOT. We took her down the strip in vegas and both temp gages were pegging. I see by the abve messages that seems to be a common thing. However the trany temp stayed pegged even after we got it back out on the 15 and cooled it down. I was worried and pulled her off to a station and let her sit for a while. I guess I have to agree to a point that the high temp must not be an issue since the fan did not stay on after we shut her down. I would think it would keep running if it was truely HOT. Thank goodness for extended warrenties!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
By the way, I had it a week when some fool backed it to it at the far end of a parking lot in Pamldale :mad . No note, No Nothing, not even a kiss.
 

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Thermostat

Toy Truck said:
Ours (serial #286) runs hot. One evening coming back from a car show running on a flat road with no traffic in 70 degree temperature it 'cooked'.... basically pegged the temp needle and put the engine into the 'limp mode'. The dealer spent 2 days on the phone with Detroit and found (he says) that the thermostat was defective and replaced same. I don't know what it's rated at.

These things run hot all the time as the posts above noted. I'm really sensitive to it like when you get in traffic where there's road construction on the freeway, the needle really spikes up.

At the Woodward Dream Cruise in Detroit, the SSR Team said that it's okay (???) but the new '05's with the 390 HP 6 liter Corvette engines all had very 'Rube Goldberg' type foam blocking all around the top of the radiator to keep air from going over it and missing the radiator. That may be something that needs to be retro-fitted on the '03 & '04's.

By the way, my wife has just over 7000 miles now.
The thermostat should begin to open at 188 and be fully opened at 206, therefore I would say this is a 206 thermostat. The coolant should stay between 206 and 235 when the high speed fan kicks in. Good luck. :flag This is the high temp world we live in. It seems to work for me. :flag
 

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The keep running feature

USAF First Sgt said:
To add to the problem. I picked up my SSR two weeks ago. It has the added dial pack infront of the stifter. That gives the trany temp. Talk about HOT. We took her down the strip in vegas and both temp gages were pegging. I see by the abve messages that seems to be a common thing. However the trany temp stayed pegged even after we got it back out on the 15 and cooled it down. I was worried and pulled her off to a station and let her sit for a while. I guess I have to agree to a point that the high temp must not be an issue since the fan did not stay on after we shut her down. I would think it would keep running if it was truely HOT. Thank goodness for extended warrenties!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
By the way, I had it a week when some fool backed it to it at the far end of a parking lot in Pamldale :mad . No note, No Nothing, not even a kiss.
Hey Sgt:
The keep running feature, for the fan circuit, is NOT built into the schematic of the SSR since both cooling fan relays are controlled from the Run/Start switch. The high speed fan does have a direct B+ connection BUT the controlling relay does NOT. :flag Good Luck, I can relate to the no message though since the Manson Crew stoled my 57 Nomad and dumped it over a cliff in Hope Ranch, But I did recover it and rebuilt it to better then new with a LT1 engine. :flag
 

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re: some temp is good

As Nomadkenn said "Some temp is good"

Reason is, without enough heat, the oil will not vaporize water that has condensed in it.

This bit of wizdom came to me from an old auto shop teacher when the class was asking why not just use a really low thermostat.
 

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You are right on. I have lived with this problem since 1954, but now we have the smog to contend with. :flag !
 

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Nomadkenn said:
...but now we have the smog to contend with. :flag !
I was recently reminded how much better things are now. Last month, in Pleasonton, the cruse on Main St, was quite noxious at times. I haven't smelled so much unburnt hydrocarbons coming from traffic since I was a little kid.
 

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Nomadkenn said:
Hey Sgt:
The keep running feature, for the fan circuit, is NOT built into the schematic of the SSR since both cooling fan relays are controlled from the Run/Start switch. The high speed fan does have a direct B+ connection BUT the controlling relay does NOT.
Why run the fans after shutdown?

With the water pump stopped, continued cooling dosen't do much for the engine.
 

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Water Pump

Hence the need for an electric water pump, which would help out with the HP needs of this little engine that could. :flag
 

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TASTAAFL revisited.

Nomadkenn said:
Hence the need for an electric water pump, which would help out with the HP needs of this little engine that could. :flag
Water pumps run from the accessory belt because it's simple, reliable and proven. Adding an electric motor just adds weight, wires, fuses, relays, switches... More things to break. Besides, "There ain't no such thing as a free lunch." An electric dirven pump would actually rob more power than the pully driven. The only reason I can think of, for adding an electric pump is if there just wasn't space to have a pump in the normal place.
 

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If your temp gages peg, you have a problem that needs fixing. During development, the only time these vehicles got hotter than nominal on the gages was when you were pulling a mountain during hot weather. Pulling a trailer up a hill would also cause a rise during hot weather. These conditions would not peg the gages. If the gages peg, usually there is an electrical problem with the fan or fan controller. This could be a problem with the fan itself or more likely with the electrical supply to the fan.
 
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