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Fail-Safe thermostats

Freezer:
Would you happed to know if the thermostat is of the "fail-safe design" if not I know they should be. I remember back in the 50's when they did fail closed and really caused some problems. It looks like our units may be failing closed, at least from several recent posts.
 

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On the contrary to electric water pumps, corvette owners have run them for a long time. They do increase horsepower and the amount of wiring needed is minimum. The great thing is you can run the pump after shutdown plus you can keep a more constant flow of water through the engine unlike a mechanical pump which varies output with engine speed.
 

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the corvette waterpunp is not electric it is driven off the front of camshaft
 

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I know the corvette is driven off the camshaft for the LT1 and LT4 engines, I'm on my second vette 04 Z06 with the Z16 option. Prior to this I had an LT4 in a 96 Grandsport. Meziere makes a kit for the engine which converts it to an electric water pump. Do a google search for "electric water pumps for corvette" and some of the articles will describe the HP gained from the pumps, 9.1 RWHP on the site. Additional information:

Our most popular street and strip pump.
Fully polished or anodized in your choice of 4 colors.
Efficient direct drive electric motor combines light weight (only 5½ pounds) and efficient hydrodynamic design that delivers 35 GPM free flowing rating (55 GPM in high flow version).
All stainless steel hardware included.
Inlet adapters available for 1¼, 1½, 1¾, #12AN, #16AN, and #20AN.

Amperage draw:
Under normal use the pump will draw 6-7 amps.


Now do we think this could circulate more water and not add a lot of weigh to the SSR or have massive HP draw??? I am not sure if they have one available for the SSR but if they do it might be a very good investment for the people with cooling concerns.
Just my .02 worth.
The website by the way is www.meziere.com if you want more information on the pumps.
 

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And at the full 7 amps this would relate to .11 hp AND only when and if the engine needed cooling. No cooling needed at start-up and perhaps very little above 50 mph. What a free lunch if it were not for the costs of this little cooler.
 

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Retired GM Program Manager/ Chief SSR Engineer
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Per the question to me, I am not sure what type thermostat is used, but I am sure it is the same type as used by all the Chevy small blocks. We did not do a special thermostat for the SSR. I am 95% sure that most of the people with temp problems are having fan electrical problems.
 

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Whats a good way to check the fan out ourselves to see if its coming on and off when its suppose to?
How about starting the engine up in the driveway with the hood up and watch to see if the fan starts and stops. I noticed mine started climbing up pretty good at the Woodward Dream Cruise in the bumper to bumper cruise traffic. It was only in the mid 70's that day!


Scott 0168
 

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Just watch your temp gage, should run very close to the center marker (210). When it gets up to the fourth marker (235) ,it should start down since the high speed fan SHOULD turn on at that point. :flag
Nomadkenn
 

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Running Hot

As someone pointed out, these new engines are built to run hot. If you're not in the red and smoking under the hood....all should be OK.

Messing with thermostats and radiator additives can screw things up pretty well.

Remember, this isn't the first aluminium block that GM has designed. They typically do things based on "need".

If you think you're smarter than all the engineers at GM.......go ahead and make changes that make you feel more comfortable. But remember, you are tinkering with proven systems. Just my two cents. CARNUT
 

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Im with you CARNUT.
:thumbs
 

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I second that CARNUT. I was in a parade on Labor Day weekend. THe temp would climb to 240 and then drop back down to 210. As long as the needle stays out of the Red Zone I don't think you are going to have an issue. It was too bad the '57 Bel Aire driving behind me in the parade had to drop out midway through due to overheating. I guess they have improved the design over time.
 

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temp

RISSR said:
I second that CARNUT. I was in a parade on Labor Day weekend. THe temp would climb to 240 and then drop back down to 210. As long as the needle stays out of the Red Zone I don't think you are going to have an issue. It was too bad the '57 Bel Aire driving behind me in the parade had to drop out midway through due to overheating. I guess they have improved the design over time.
I used to have a '59 TR-3. Lived in So. Calif and that bugger was definitely NOT designed for anything but the fog in England. Managed to find an original owners manual - hard bound and everything - actually cautioned owners not to participate in parades.
 

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Short run

Last saturday I took a 225 mile ride in 90+ degree heat at between 75-90mph. Had no temp probs, even after getting stuck in stop n go traffic 4 30 mins on I-95. She jus stayed rite below the 210 mark. SWEET :)

:cool
 

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It's not a matter of thinking one is "smarter than the engineers at GM". It's just that often a major auto manufacturer has different prioritys than some owners do during design and manufacture. Emission levels and fuel economy are big prioritys with vehicle manufacturers. I am willing as an owner, to give up a little fuel economy and smog in exchange for increased LONG TERM DURABILITY. Make no mistake about it - heat is the enemy of engine/transmission durability. Will the SSR's engine and trans last an "acceptable" period of time past the warranty period? Absolutely! Will they last longer and perform better long term if temps are kept lower? Absolutely! What are your prioritys?
 

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Overheating

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Glad to read the threads about the heating issue with the SSR. I noticed yesterday that my 2004 was running over way over around the 225-235 mark. I just drove it from Terre Haute to Sacramento and had no problem. Seemed like it always ran around 210... Even in the hot Oklahoma, Texas weather. Came home and yikes it appeared to be over heating. I parked it in my driveway, opened the hood and noticed that the electric fan was not working.... More yikes! I opened the fuse panel and took the fuse from the ABS system and put it in the fan system. The fan came right on! The fuse appeared to be ok so I put it in the ABS slot.... Could be coincidence that the fan came on but seemed strange to me. Will drive it tomorrow and see if I still have the over 210 problem. Whats with these guys with 210 anyhow. What ever happened to 180? Glad to have warrantee but sure do hate the thought of warping something with that extreme heat.... Guess they know what they are doing.... But be sure to check to see if your fan is working.

Love my SSR - Love the attention it gets - Love the ease in converting to a convertible - Will love it more when I get another 150 hp with a Whipple Supercharger!
 

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ron dickson

after adding 200+ hp to my truck it became obvious i needed some cooling help we took the trans coolng lines off that helped a lot but the long haul fix was i put a corveete dual fan/shroud assembly and had BECOOL make a special double row radiator . i sent them a stock ssr rad so they could do this for me i have no cooling issues. we run a 160 degree thermostat we turn the fans on at 195
 

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The 160 thermostat will do no good since the fan(s) will not turn on until 195, that is the temp it will run at, if you turn on the high speed fan. BUT you may not pass the next smog test! GOOD LUCK>
 

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ron dickson

I drove 500 miles yesterday starting in atlanta with the ambient temp of about 60 degrees to fla with a ambient temp of about 91 degrees At the beginning of the trip the temp gage was reading about 180, at the end in fla i was about 200, thats not bad with approx 525/540 hp up front besides everbody says you don't want to run these motors too cold
 

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What did you use to reprogram the fan(s)? Do you have the low speed fan with an on/off range and the high speed with an on/off range? Let's have the details.
 
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