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What exactly does it do? First thing is best to have engine running foot on brake and then push the button on the center console. When you do that what does it do? Sounds and where from?
 

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Look in the fuse box behind the passenger seat. You will see two aluminum fuses on the top row. The one on the left controls the windows and the top among other things. They are 30 amp circuit breakers and not fuses. Try swapping one for the other. Mine quit on me down in Texas. Couldn't find any at the local parts place and I got by with a 30 amp fuse. Try it it can't hurt and just may be the problem. Hope so.
 

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@Country boy garage, Welcome from Forney Texas. Consider clicking on the round Letter/Picture, top far right corner, go down to "Account Settings", click, and fill in your information. Especially your LOCATION, so someone close by might be able to help, and the year of your SSR. Then go the the left side and click on "Signature". Also put the year of your SSR in your "Signature", and anything else you want to show in your posts, then we can help you better if you have a problem. When you finish click the "SAVE" box.

Nick & Kathy
 

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Is there anything else that does not work?
Radio, power seat or front wiper motor?

If these items are also not functioning try check the 125 amp fuse in the under hood fuse box - be sure to test with a test light AND while the key is on and the switches for the radio, wiper motor and rear window defroster are turned on ---- these large slo blo fuses can fail with a "partial open" meaning they will test ok with test equipment and the amperage required to operate them. However the fuse will not allow enough amperage past it to operate the large loads that it supplies current for, such as the windows, roof, power seats etc.!!!!
 

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Everything works
I assume you mean everything else works (except the windows and roof)
So it is possible you have a bad RDM (roof door module) or still possibility that the console switches are bad.

Does the traction control and the door lock switches on console work?
Are the windows stuck in the closed position? If yes, do they index properly when opening and closing the doors, (drop down when opening and then lift up after closing) ?
 

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Traction control works but the window don't index
First -- Did you have the BCM you replaced programmed to fit your SSR?
Were all these things also not functioning BEFORE you replaced the BCM.
What about the power seat?

So I assume windows are stuck in the full up position which means you have trouble opening and closing door because window is binding on weatherstripping. If window are not all the way up - they will not try to "index" and this would then be normal.
This might sound like RDM may be at fault - but you need to check fuse for RDM in rear fuse box. (#28) However your latest post below adds more valuable information

Door lock don't work or the ac
GEE --- That's not quite "everything works" ---
When you say AC doesn't work - is it just the ac compressor or is it the blower motor?
Because I can't be there to test everything and your description is not real complete, I will take another stab at it.

You never said if all of these problems occurred at once or if first it was the AC and then the windows and then the door locks! I will assume they all stopped working at once.

Really good possibility that the 125 amp under hood fuse is blown -- testing can be tricky you need to test with test light WHILE some of the high current draw items (loads are activated)

Because of this it might be easiest to just replace the 125 amp under hood fuse - you should be able to get one from Advance, Autozone or O' Reillys fairly inexpensively. For safety I would disconnect negative battery cable BEFORE replacing the fuse. The cables to the fuse are powered up at all times and can carry enough current to create electrical burns and arcs which could potentially cause injury or vehicle damage if your wrench touches the fuse bolt and something that is grounded!

Testing the fuse would be done easiest with two people. Key on engine off check for a bright test light on both sides of the big fuse while also doing the following --- rear defroster on, blower motor switch to high, and trying to operate the power windows. If close to 12 volts or a bright light on one side and less than about 11 volts or a dim or no light on the other side - fuse is blown and needs replaced.

If you still have problems the test every fuse in both fuse boxes with a 12 volt test light connected to a good ground -- any fuse that lights the test light on only one side is blown and needs replaced.
Also make note of any fuse that does not light the test light on either side of the fuse - this will be normal for some fuses but could also indicate problem - Let me know which fuses are dead and we can go from there.
 
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