[Hatterhead]

Lately when I start the truck it cranks very slowly at first and then fires right up. Suspected a bad battery (which it was) so I put in a new one. Still does the same thing. Thinking maybe the starter motor is going bad and should be tested. Need to remove the starter to get it tested. My question is, how hard is it to remove the starter motor if I don't have a lift? Any suggestions on how to do it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Autoprof]

Most places cannot bench test the stater under a load - only free speed test. Which can be ok for a starter that is completely dead - but not very conclusive for a starter that works inefficiently.

I would do a starter current draw -
if too high -- mechanical binding or bad starter
if too low I rule out high external circuit resistance by doing voltage drop before replacing starter

If i am someplace I cannot test starter current draw I do the starter circuit voltage drop test first.

Watch the flowing you tube for some information regarding how to test starter circuit voltage drop
You should disable so engine will not start - pull fuel pump fuse or injector fuses. There will be 0 volts of voltage drop with 0 amps of current - this is why you test it with engine cranking -- current flowing!

https://youtu.be/U0OtjG4bwJg

Starter circuit voltage drop SUMMARY:

Positive side test
Connect Red lead of voltmeter to battery POSITIVE -- black lead to battery cable on starter
then crank engine while observing voltage - any thing higher than appox. 0.5 volts indicates high resistance (loose/ bad connections) on positive side of starter.

Negative side test
Connect red lead to starter case-- black lead to battery NEGATIVE
then crank engine while observing voltage - any thing higher than appox. 0.5 volts indicates high resistance (loose/ bad connections) on ground side of starter.

If either reading is too high -- remove ONE lead only and place at the next connection closer to the other lead -- repeat test
If the voltage reading is now good the part you skipped over contains the bad part/connection
If voltage reading is still too high then the bad part/connection is still between the meter leads -- move one lead again or replace the cable.

I hope this helps __ I do not use a remote starter - I just have someone else crank it for me or I use two long jumper wires with alligator clips on each end. I clip one end to test location and the other end to meter lead. The jumpers are long enough that I can place volt meter in car with me while I crank it.

Let me know exactly what your test results are I will try to help.

If you do not have a voltmeter??? then clean and tighten grounds. If you still have a problem either buy/borrow a voltmeter or start replacing parts until you get lucky.

 

[SWT RYD]

I would also check ground cables. SSR's are noted for loosing ground.

 

[river_rat]

Check the battery cable connection at the starter (solenoid). Been loose on several of my GM vehicles which was making me suspect a bad starter until I checked the cable on each vehicle having issues.

 

[Autoprof]

SWT RD and river rat are definitely correct.
I may have incorrectly assumed that as a member for some time you were aware of these common problems.
Thanks guys.

 

[Dicktator]

Do some research on my SSR How to Library:

It's there. https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Starter, Ground, Cable.

Dicktator

 

[Dragon2U]

I would not pull it out before you test it. You should be able to have it tested in the truck at Autozone or Advance or ...... They should be able to test the load that the starter has on the system and tell you if it is heading south.

 

[flynSS/R]

Years ago I experienced something similar with my starter. I had to have the R towed to the dealership because non of my bag of tricks to make a stuck starter to turn, did not work.

The shop called me later that day and informed me that it was my wiper motor that failed. The motor had filled up with water and shorted out a primary wire to the starter, thus not allowing the proper voltage to engage the starter.

The shop I believed installed a new improved wiper motor with the cable connector on the bottom of the motor so it would not fill up with water again and then sealed it with silicone type sealer.

No problems since then, and still have the original starter.

Good luck on finding your problem and let us know what you find out.

 

[Guzzi Guy]

Wow, now that's a weird story. Who'd initially guess the wiper motor could play a part in the starter not functioning. Thanks for passing that along.

Dave