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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I’m having a problem that’s familiar to many, and I’ve read the relevant posts and installed the relevant fixes, but still having issues. Wondering what to try next.

TL;DR = 2005 SSR with automatic trans won’t crank. Shift lever stuck in park, button won’t depress, turning key powers up the dash and windows, but turning key results in only the relay click from engine compartment and no cranking.

Long version = About a month ago our 2005 SSR with automatic trans suffered a failure of the bushing at the connection of the shift lever cable to the actuator arm on the transmission body. This occurred while out and about, car was not cold. As expected, this resulted in the shift lever being stuck in park and the car would not crank. When the flatbed driver arrived, he found half of that little white bushing on the ground, half still hanging on the end of the shift cable. He attempted a roadside fix but no luck, so car was taken to our local big Chevy dealership. They replaced the bushing (and installed a new battery) and said all was well.

It was not.

A couple of weeks later, with car sitting in driveway (cold), she wouldn’t crank. Turning the key resulted in the dash powering up as normal, and the power windows and door locks all worked, but when turing the key to the start position all we got was a relay-sounding click from under the hood and no cranking. Shift lever stuck in park, couldn’t even push down on the shift lever button. Brake pedal seemed very hard as well.

I should note that the wife always depresses the brake pedal when turning the key, even though the service techs said this was not actually necessary as the SSR does not check brake pedal position before allowing the starter to engage. When we experience the “won’t crank” scenario she described the brake pedal feel as “very stiff, very hard to depress” when the car is off and cold.

I should also mention that we had the dreaded "Check Brake System" alert on the dash display a while back, and managed to have the ABS computer module replaced with a reman unit as new ones were unavailable from GM. This was before any of this shift lever business started, but I mention it in case failures of the ABS module could interact with the start procedure in any way.

So I read all the threads I could find on this forum relating to this issue, and purchased The Dicktator’s upgraded shifter cable bushing kit from the Simple Engineering website. I also got the ABS module heat shield and some other goodies. In addition, I purchased OEM ignition switch, brake pedal position sensor / switch, and shift lever solenoid modules online, just in case any of these were failing and causing the problem. With all these parts in hand, the SSR decided to start that day, so we took it back to the dealer and described all that we had learned.

Dealership installed The Dicktator’s shift cable bushing kit and the ABS module heat shield, and found a vacuum leak in our brake master cylinder, which was replaced with a reman unit. They also installed the brake pedal position sensor / switch that I had brought, but did not install my replacement ignition switch or shift lever solenoid. They said all was well.

It was not.

The SSR drove fine for a week or so, and then yesterday refused to crank, just like before. Brake pedal feels hard, shift lever stuck in park and unable to depress the button, although dash powers up and door locks and power windows all work as normal from battery power. Turning the key results in dash power-up and that single click from under the hood that sounds like the starter relay closing. But she won’t crank.

In the past, when this problem first started cropping up (but before the initial failure of the shift cable bushing that left us stranded), the wife has managed to get the SSR to crank by leaning heavily on the brake pedal, as if getting it closer to the floor would somehow close the circuit. The service techs explained that the brake pedal does not need to be depressed to allow the starter to engage, and even if it did, the brake pedal position sensor / switch is designed to actuate as soon as the pedal is depressed just a tiny bit, so the brake lights come on as soon as you touch the brake pedal - (and they do, even when the SSR won’t crank) - and that there is no “secondary switch” that only actuates when the pedal is pressed further. But the wife maintains that pressing hard on the brake pedal in the past would get the SSR to crank, so who am I to argue?

So - now we’re right back where we started. Even with The Dicktator’s shift cable bushing kit, a new battery and reman brake master cylinder, and new OEM brake pedal position sensor / switch installed - the SSR is stuck in park and won’t crank.

We’ll have it dragged back to the dealership again, but it would be great if I could point them at the problem so that they don’t stand there scratching their heads and saying, “I dunno, man…. that’s weird.”

At this point this will be the third trip for service of the same problem, and the wife is ready to call in an air strike on the dealership!

And so I’m reaching out to you, the sage wizards of SSR innards, to see if anybody has any suggestions about what to look for next?
 

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'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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ClouserYellow, Hang on, the smart ones will offer ideas shortly. Mean time---Welcome from Forney Texas!!! You will discover that you have found the BEST FORUM ever!---Consider going to "Tools" in the red banner, click on "User CP" go to "Your Profile" then click "Edit Your Details". Then, whenever you "post" something, it will show in the left column under your name, like the rest of us, and we will know where you are and what you drive. Then if you have a problem, someone close by might be able to help out.

--Also if you haven't yet, go to "FORUMS", "SSRFanatics News & Polls", "New Member section" and introduce Yourself!!

Nick & Kathy
 

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I have folks work on mine but I think I would have that new battery tested just to rule that out
 

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Tech Support/Research
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Shifter Solenoid

I would try to rule out things like loose grounds, loose connections at the battery and starter and the starter itself before jumping too far into other repairs. If the simple checks are OK, and since you have a new shifter solenoid on hand, I recommend you replace it. I recently had intermittent "Stuck in Park" events in my SSR over the course of a week with no other symptoms and replacing that solenoid solved the problem. In my case, I was able to deduce that the solenoid was at fault by pressing the solenoid release button with the ignition on and listening for a click. When it stopped clicking after a few tries I knew it was defective.

If you turn the ignition on and step on the brake, can you move the shifter out of park? Don't do this before understanding that the truck will move if on any incline! This indicates if the shifter solenoid, brake stop switch and ignition switch are all synched electrically.

The solenoid can be replaced without any major disassembly of the console in less than an hour the first time, and in about half that time once you understand how it's done. See this thread:

https://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5...acement-without-taking-interior-apart-184690/
 

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Damn, ClouserYellow, what a way to be welcomed to the SSRfanatic Family !!! But let me :00000732: you to our great Nation of SSRfanatics. I assure you "Help is on the way" from some very knowledgeable SSR guys, namely Dictator, Dragon2U, Mike in AZ and several others. I can't help you cause I'm just a driver not a certified Tech, like a lot of our SSRfanatic guys and gals too !!!

Again :00000732" and hope you get "her" fixed soon and are able to enjoy your Slingshot Yellow "little truck" tennesseecozydog :ssr
 

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I recently had intermittent "Stuck in Park" events in my SSR over the course of a week with no other symptoms and replacing that solenoid solved the problem. In my case, I was able to deduce that the solenoid was at fault by pressing the solenoid release button with the ignition on and listening for a click. When it stopped clicking after a few tries I knew it was defective.

If you turn the ignition on and step on the brake, can you move the shifter out of park? Don't do this before understanding that the truck will move if on any incline! This indicates if the shifter solenoid, brake stop switch and ignition switch are all synched electrically.

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Question, I was too tired last night to try this and running a little tight on time this morning.
Will the shift interlock prevent you from being able to depress the button - I never really thought about it until after seeing this post. My thought was to try and push button without key or brake pedal.
 

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Question, I was too tired last night to try this and running a little tight on time this morning.
Will the shift interlock prevent you from being able to depress the button - I never really thought about it until after seeing this post. My thought was to try and push button without key or brake pedal.
Sorry, I don't recall if my foot was on or off the brake when I had the solenoid connected and in hand while testing it. When loose and disconnected there is no resistance to depressing the override button.
 

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Sorry, I don't recall if my foot was on or off the brake when I had the solenoid connected and in hand while testing it. When loose and disconnected there is no resistance to depressing the override button.
I was actually questioning the shifter button. The poster said "shifter stuck in park, button won't depress" I am assuming they are discussing the shifter button.
 

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Shifter Interlock

I was actually questioning the shifter button. The poster said "shifter stuck in park, button won't depress" I am assuming they are discussing the shifter button.
The shifter button won't depress until the ignition is on and the brake pedal is depressed.
 

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@snomuncher
Thanks for the replies - like I said, I never really tried or thought about it.
@ClouserYellow -- I hope they find the problem -- please let us know what the find so we can all learn from this.
I would also like to add that the brake light switch actually has 3 circuits -- brake lights, cruise control/ TCC solenoid and lastly - shift lock actuator signal. The fact the brakes lights come on does not say the circuit for shift indicator works - if the top tries to cycle down with brake pedal depressed then the brake light circuit for the shift lock is functioning. - most likely shift lock solenoid, I would do more testing before replacing the part.

If the top does not work.
1. test underhood fuse (#2 on 03 and 04, #25 on 05 and 06) for voltage on both sides of fuse -- if ok on both sides, check voltage at proper terminals of brake switch. If no voltage on either side go tot step 2
2. test fuse (#19 on 03 and 04, #26 on 05 and 06) underhood fuse box If no voltage on either side - I would suspect and test ignition switch. If voltage on both sides I would suspect bad or out of adjustment P-N-P switch --- this could have gotten rotated or damaged if too much force was used trying to repair shift cable - or tow truck drive trying to do emergency repair. This would also explain the no crank -- and maybe even your wife getting to start sometime by pushing hard on the shifter.

At the transmission position sensor (park- neutral switch) Pink wire should have power when key is turned to run (engine need not be running) this is fed from fuse #19. Light green wire should have power when switch senses park. (This feeds voltage to fuse #2. Loosen bolts rotate sensor until power on green wire, tighten bolts and see if you can move shifter and the check to see if it starts.

Hopefully the shifter issue and the no start issue are related to this problem --

Best of luck I hope this helps
AND
WELCOME TO THE FORUM
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@Dicktator - You are the MAN. A while back, when we first started having problems, I downloaded and printed out your entire How-To Library, and have all the PDF's stored on all my devices. Amazing work, thank you so much! And thanks for creating your shifter bushing upgrade and door handle reinforcement kits - I bought both from Simple-Engineering.
@snomuncher - Thanks, there's lots of good info in your replies. Makes me think I should swap in the replacement shifter solenoid, and also rigorously inspect and test the fuse box and fuses. I sure hope it's not the corroded-wire situation inside the fuse box as detailed in The Dicktator's Fuse Box Repair document in the How To Library - that does not look like fun to repair, or cheap to replace!
@Autoprof - Very illuminating answers, thank you! I did not know exactly how the brake pedal position switch interacted with the rest of the system, and your posts made things a bit more clear. As we delve deeper your info on the three elements of the brake pedal switch will make it easier to troubleshoot.

Keep the ideas coming - I'm gonna wait a day or two until this thread dies down before I crack open the center console, but I'll report our findings as we go.

What a great community!
 

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HobbyBob
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I had the same problem and solved it by replacing the shift solenoid,pn#88967140. I probably could have saved a lot of time by checking the under hood fuse box. The 15 amp fuse in slot # 26 was blown. Just be logical and chech the easiest stuff first.
 

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I had the same problem and solved it by replacing the shift solenoid,pn#88967140. I probably could have saved a lot of time by checking the under hood fuse box. The 15 amp fuse in slot # 26 was blown. Just be logical and chech the easiest stuff first.

This makes perfect sense

@3yello I owe you a big THANKS!

I screwed up:mad2: --- I was looking at the diagrams for an 04 not an 05 I glad you brought this to my attention! :banghead


I knew that they were the same setup - but I didn't pay enough attention to the year!

Fuse # 26 on an 05 is the same as fuse #19 on an 04.
Fuse #25 on an 05 is the same as fuse #2 on an 04
see the attached diagrams

That is what happens when I get in a hurry on a busy Monday after a long weekend.
Sorry again :banghead, I should have looked closer at the post from @ClouserYellow

Picture #1 is 04
Picture #2 is 05

I guess the real lesson learned is to check ALL fuses FIRST using test equipment NOT VISUALLY first!
 

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RedHotSSR
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Ok

This makes perfect sense

@3yello I owe you a big THANKS!

I screwed up:mad2: --- I was looking at the diagrams for an 04 not an 05 I glad you brought this to my attention! :banghead


I knew that they were the same setup - but I didn't pay enough attention to the year!

Fuse # 26 on an 05 is the same as fuse #19 on an 04.
see the attached diagrams

That is what happens when I get in a hurry on a busy Monday after a long weekend.
Sorry again :banghead, I should have looked closer at the post from @ClouserYellow

Picture #1 is 04
Picture #2 is 05

I guess the real lesson learned is to check ALL fuses FIRST using test equipment NOT VISUALLY first!
It's OK, This along with you many other helpful post are greatly appreciated. 0:) Thanks for ALL you do to help the R family.:grin2: Your OK in my book.
 

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EDIT -- I have edited my previous posts to indicate the different fuse numbers for the two different fuse boxes (03-04 and 05-06)
In case somebody does a search in the future who has this problem
 

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I too experienced a problem with the shifter solenoid which wouldn’t allow me to shift or start the engine.

So after a new solenoid install, I located the emergency release button which is covered up by top console panel, then I drilled a 3/8 hole on the passenger side of the side council which now allows me access to push the release button and now I can move the shifter.

In my case I was able to start the engine in neutral, shift gears, and continue my drive.
 
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