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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
SUPRISE! CONTINUED.
I have one of the new "modified poppers' installed and it seems to be working. The old ones worked but there was a problem with the springs bending. The tube on the new ones only purpose is to keep the spring straight and keep the spring in place. I took the popper apart, discarded the small spring and tube. I cut the end off of the body in order to have the proper length of tube extending out of the base for the spring to go around. The length of tube extending out the base is determined by the length of the fully compressed spring and bumper. I flared the end of the new tube to keep it in the body. I used this popper Auto Locked Shave doors Spring Loaded Door Popper each Billet | eBay . I used a 2 2/4" spring with the bumper from the popper trimmed of it's skirt. I wrapped Gorilla Tape around it to build it up to the proper diameter to fit the tube. I drilled a small hole thru the tube and bumper and inserted a small cotter to hold the bumper and spring in place.
I went in the back yard and found the proper size alum. tube to replace the tube I discarded. I had 5 or 6 making up a windchime. Dictator uses Home Depot for parts, I use the back yard. Whatever works. I have been using this spring cut to 2 3/4" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07232PFK5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details It is 080 diameter wire.
This set up with the strength and length of spring will fit in the space between the lip of the tailgate and the body of the truck. I installed the passenger side 3" from the bottom and the driver side 2 1/2" from the bottom. With the old poppers I could move them around and this seamed the best placement to get the tailgate away from the lid seal and then push it far enough for gravity to take over. It works on my truck with the lid open or closed.
And now for the installation and it is a bitch. I placed the body of the popper as far to the outside as possible in order to clear a body panel that can be in the way if installed too close toward to the center of the truck. Another surprise! When I drilled a small exploratory hole I discovered another panel about 3/4" behind the panel
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I had to drill thru this one also. When I put the body of the popper though the hole there was not enough threads to install the nut. I found the nut had a relief before the threads so I ground it down to the threads and was able it install it. The fun part is if you do not have long skinny arms do not even attempt to put the nut on. You have to go in from the bottom , through a hole and then up to reach the back of the housing. You may want size the hole to fit the treads and put a small keeper screw head at the bottom to snug it up or make a metal overlay with a hole in it and secure it with a screw on each side.
The pictures have the dimensions on them.
Jack
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:)
Some good info there, and it brings about a couple of questions. The "slots" (vertical channels) where the poppers themselves go, is fairly narrow and the choice is how high up or low to place them. For some reason, you said you staggered yours for best results. Also, cannot figure out comment regarding "placing the body of the popper as far out, etc. to avoid another panel"
Can you give further info on that.
Also you mention another panel 3/4" behind first panel which I would take to mean the vertical channel slots. That could mean the poppers I have coming on order could be a problem. Hopefully a solution being using a hole saw to get the popper lower part all the way in place.

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Theie is a panel about 5/8" to 3/4" behind the panel that you will install the poppers in. You have to drill thru it to install the popper. There is a vertical panel (side of the bed) very close to the popper.
I also have these poppers coming. They may be a better answer.
I found that were I installed the popper worked best for these springs.
Jack
 

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@moscooter Don't want to hijack Nick's thread, but here is the hole he is talking about. Your popper is 11/16" in diameter. A stepper bit will work for the outside hole but you need a 11/16 drill bit or metal hole saw for the inside one.
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That is the info and picture I needed to see. I have a series of sizes of hole saws and should be able to match that size OK. My set should show up in next couple of days.
Since it appears you have your set now installed, how does it work..........Does it pop the gate open enough for it to fall on its own to wide open.:rolleyes:
 

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That is the info and picture I needed to see. I have a series of sizes of hole saws and should be able to match that size OK. My set should show up in next couple of days.
Since it appears you have your set now installed, how does it work..........Does it pop the gate open enough for it to fall on its own to wide open.:rolleyes:
Yes and no. You also have to put a spacer between end of popper and tailgate. Will send picture later. It opens with lid up but I'm trying to get it to open with lid shut.
 

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Yes and no. You also have to put a spacer between end of popper and tailgate. Will send picture later. It opens with lid up but I'm trying to get it to open with lid shut.
:rolleyes:
Well, that is exactly the mode I want to have too. My GMC Sierra pu has a button on the dash that pops open the tailgate. When I use it to go to the golf course, i pull up to the (bag drop), put it in park and that allows the button to work and the bag guy can extract the golf bag easily.
When I go to the course with the SSR, the "drill" has always been I pull up to the bag drop and then I shut down the motor as I extract the key and hit the cargo lid button. I instantly get out of the truck to go back and manually open the tailgate as I do NOT want the attendant trying to extract my golf bag up and over the tailgate while it is closed.
With this new setup, I would expect to pull up to the bag drop and hit the tail gate button and the gate would drop and they could easily remove the bag. No need whatsoever to pop up the cargo lid.
The bag guy could then close the tail gate or I could do it once parked in the lot.:)
 

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:unsure:
Did you consider placing the poppers higher up that channel. The further away from the hinge, the poppers would have an easier "push" to open the gate. Plus I assume you have to use the spacer cause when the popper is fully extended it's not making contact with the inside edge of gate???
 

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At the top The tailgate has to move 4 in before it goes into free fall/gravity. Down at the bottom it's about an inch and a half. That's my observation maybe Nick has another theory.
 

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Here is another thing I'm finding out. You're putting these poppers on and it has pressure pushing outward on the tailgate which in turn puts pressure on the latches to release making them harder to move. If you look at the seal on the deck lid and look at the lip on your tailgate which has an upward curve, that makes it's hard for the tailgate to move away from the deck lid. Jack's video of the deck lid going up and then the tailgate falling down is ideal. But that's not what my goal was. Which brings me back to my post several months ago, Is it worth it.
 

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Here is another thing I'm finding out. You're putting these poppers on and it has pressure pushing outward on the tailgate which in turn puts pressure on the latches to release making them harder to move. If you look at the seal on the deck lid and look at the lip on your tailgate which has an upward curve, that makes it's hard for the tailgate to move away from the deck lid. Jack's video of the deck lid going up and then the tailgate falling down is ideal. But that's not what my goal was. Which brings me back to my post several months ago, Is it worth it.
Here is another thing I'm finding out. You're putting these poppers on and it has pressure pushing outward on the tailgate which in turn puts pressure on the latches to release making them harder to move. If you look at the seal on the deck lid and look at the lip on your tailgate which has an upward curve, that makes it's hard for the tailgate to move away from the deck lid. Jack's video of the deck lid going up and then the tailgate falling down is ideal. But that's not what my goal was. Which brings me back to my post several months ago, Is it worth it.
:)
Hey, it seems at least one guy has got it working where he can pop the gate without popping the cargo lid before. That being the case, we will somehow figure it out too. I should have my poppers in next day or two. Don't want to make those channels look like swiss cheese with multiple large holes in them, but I for sure will take into account the larger movement you mention at the top end versus the bottom. Gotta be a happy medium where the push is sufficient to overcome the seals and get beyond the (gravity/fall line).
 

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Hey, it seems at least one guy has got it working where he can pop the gate without popping the cargo lid before. That being the case, we will somehow figure it out too. I should have my poppers in next day or two. Don't want to make those channels look like swiss cheese with multiple large holes in them, but I for sure will take into account the larger movement you mention at the top end versus the bottom. Gotta be a happy medium where the push is sufficient to overcome the seals and get beyond the (gravity/fall line).
We can share are ideas and hope we get a solution. I don't recall seeing anyone get it to fall with the deck lid closed. Who was it?
 

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We can share are ideas and hope we get a solution. I don't recall seeing anyone get it to fall with the deck lid closed. Who was it?
:unsure:
Per this quote.........."
I now have three options of access to the bed, remote control opens lid and tailgate, small switch at driver door opens lid and tailgate, another small switch at the door fully opens the tailgate only.
Check TXNSSR post for Video link. 2nd post down."

That suggests Jack has his working althought the video a post or two down (SURPRISE), does not show just the tailgate opening but both together.
 

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Why not put a popper at the top and one toward the bottom? The top one to push the tailgate away from the tailgate seal and the lower one to get the tailgate far enough out for gravity to take over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
This is what I found works on my truck. I have tried all kinds of configurations of springs and lengths. The spring has to be strong enough to overcome the lid seal and long enough to push the tailgate to over the center. Too weak and it won't push far enough, too strong they put too much pressure on the hinges, latches and solenoid release mechanism. Fully compressed it cannot exceed the space available between the tailgate and the body. I have found the springs I am using listed above positioned where I have them works.
Jack

 

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This is what I found works on my truck. I have tried all kinds of configurations of springs and lengths. The spring has to be strong enough to overcome the lid seal and long enough to push the tailgate to over the center. Too weak and it won't push far enough, too strong they put too much pressure on the hinges, latches and solenoid release mechanism. Fully compressed it cannot exceed the space available between the tailgate and the body. I have found the springs I am using listed above positioned where I have them works.
Jack

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My set of poppers just showed up this afternoon. Hope to get into it more in next few days. A preliminary look has shown me there are multiple factors to consider as you have obviously run into and overcome.
 

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Was able to bench test my remote switch setup today. It works fine. Still waiting on weaker spring that Swt Rd is sending to me. Also like he and the others involved in this mess, the "popper" part itself remains a head scratcher. As I see it while trying to measure how far out the damn gate needs to go to fall on its own, the poppers I got lack maybe an 1 1/2" even if I shim the popper body outboard as far as can be.
Hesitate to bore any holes till I have a real sense of gaining that extra distance.
I've researched some on "telescoping" PVC pipe as to a way to build a two or three stage popper. keep running into problems with that idea so far.

At least I won't have to deal with running/snaking wires from the back all the way into the cab. Just hit the remote.


 

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Glad to hear you are bench testing.
If you look back at my pictures, in the other thread TAIL GATE LATCH SPRING, you'll see that I'm using a waterproof relay. Its totally sealed. Its a bit of overkill considering it is inside the tailgate, but condensation where I live is a consideration. Further, I used stainless hardware, aside from the solenoid and the wheel which are both cad plated. Did you notice my wheel has an "actual" bearing? o_O

On mine, opening both works on the factory fob, pushing a wired button in the cab for either both or just the tailgate seems pretty straightforward and less to carry in your pocket or carry in the truck.

The "popper" or springs sort of comes down to "how hard do you want to push the tailgate to shut it (and what looks pleasing and melts into the background)?" With the current setup, I think what you really need is a push solenoid/actuator mounted behind "everything" so it just pushes out and then retracts. That said, at the moment it is a bridge too far for me as I've got other fish frying.

Is this bouncing back and forth between the threads some sort of forum aerobics? :oops::p:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
MUCH BETTER!
UPS finally found the other set of poppers I had ordered. They are much better than the larger aluminum with the inside nut that was so hard to install. These use 2 screws to install. I removed the spring and short tube from the base and cut the end off to the same dimensions I used on the other one and used the same replacement tube and spring. A trial worded just like the other aluminum one. I will convert the other one and install them today.
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