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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:oops:
Found an old 12V door latch puller from my streetrod days. So was experimenting with building an extension off the latch that I would use to connect said latch to 12V puller.
While bending/shaping my latch extension, I took apart the latch which allowed that damn spring to come out also.
Now I can determine in the picture here that the long arm of the spring is captured/held by the stub sticking up below the hole and above the middle painted part.
Question is where exactly does the short end of that spring reside. It appears it pushed up against inner edge of chrome part on right in picture.
Very hard to get both ends closed enough to get it all back in place.
Can someone validate where short end goes and how might I have better luck getting it back in place.:unsure:
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The short side rides on the pawl the inside has a nub that it pushes against
I'm guessing the "nub" you refer to is the (ridge) that runs at a slant along left edge of right hand chrome part shown in pic above while the left part of spring rides against the stub sticking up as described above. I managed to get the spring installed as mentioned here, but when I do, there is no spring tension on the mechanism and/or handle release.
My screwup not to have looked closely at how it went together before I unscrewed the latch itself.
Tried other orientations of that spring and still cannot get spring tension. Obviously have something set up wrong but can't figure it out and find no exploded view of what is known as the (endgate) latch mechanism.
Anyone got a pic of it by chance while working on your own.:rolleyes:
 

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Hey Ash all I have is a picture of the outside door handle it’s the same piece with just an added section on it for the other rod on the tailgate piece but the arrow is pointing to the nub where the small part of the spring goes The large part of the spring goes up and over the straight piece that is sticking out from the door handle bracket or hinge hope this helps as I am getting ready to leave to go on vacation for 10 days
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
:oops:
Hey Ash all I have is a picture of the outside door handle it’s the same piece with just an added section on it for the other rod on the tailgate piece but the arrow is pointing to the nub where the small part of the spring goes The large part of the spring goes up and over the straight piece that is sticking out from the door handle bracket or hinge hope this helps as I am getting ready to leave to go on vacation for 10 days View attachment 614711 View attachment 614712
:oops:

While I appreciate your trying to help me solve this, it has now made me crazier than even before. I have no such thing as what I see in your top photo. Here is what comprised the total parts that came out of my latch bracket. Those three parts, the spring, the bolt and the latch bracket itself. None of which resembles what you show above. So now while I was clueless, I'm now very clueless.:cry:
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I found two more pictures don’t know if you can see but the short length of the spring faces out toward the head of the bolt side the long leg of the spring lays inside against the bracket or door handle hinge and that goes up and over the piece that protrudes straight out
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
(y)
I finally managed to get the spring oriented as it should be. Then I was able to add my homemade bracket on top of it and hook up an old power door latch that I got years ago when I removed the door handles from my streetrod.
I hooked the rig up to my 12V battery charger pack and it works.
Tried to make a video, but have been unable to figure out how to get in on the forum. Created another post on that problem.
Next day or two, i hope to complete the project except for adding (door poppers) to upper part of tailgate so that when I push the remote button that I will mount in the cab, the tailgate should fall open on its own.:)
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One of the SoCal Nuts
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Video must be hosted elsewhere as far as I know. You then post a link to that.
 

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(y)
I finally managed to get the spring oriented as it should be. Then I was able to add my homemade bracket on top of it and hook up an old power door latch that I got years ago when I removed the door handles from my streetrod.
I hooked the rig up to my 12V battery charger pack and it works.
Tried to make a video, but have been unable to figure out how to get in on the forum. Created another post on that problem.
Next day or two, i hope to complete the project except for adding (door poppers) to upper part of tailgate so that when I push the remote button that I will mount in the cab, the tailgate should fall open on its own.:) View attachment 614757
Put it on YouTube. Then link it here. Or if you have Clipper, copy it there and then link it. Interesting to see how the poppers work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Put it on YouTube. Then link it here. Or if you have Clipper, copy it there and then link it. Interesting to see how the poppers work.
OK, did run into a couple of glitches this afternoon. First of all, the pic above shows the (door latch gizmo) too far to the left and thus it binds up with the link to the drivers side tailgate latch. So I had to shorten that length to avoid the bend in the drivers side linkage. Now that it would now all fit, I put it back together and gave it a try.
Turns out that while my 12V source will operate the tailgate latch itself without a problem, there seems to be additional (pulling power) needed to overcome the spring loaded latches in each side of the tailgate itself.
When I zapped it with 12V, it would pull, but not enough to overcome the spring tension in the tailgate latches themselves.
So, tomorrow I will explore getting a more potent 12V power source and try again.
 

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OK, did run into a couple of glitches this afternoon. First of all, the pic above shows the (door latch gizmo) too far to the left and thus it binds up with the link to the drivers side tailgate latch. So I had to shorten that length to avoid the bend in the drivers side linkage. Now that it would now all fit, I put it back together and gave it a try.
Turns out that while my 12V source will operate the tailgate latch itself without a problem, there seems to be additional (pulling power) needed to overcome the spring loaded latches in each side of the tailgate itself.
When I zapped it with 12V, it would pull, but not enough to overcome the spring tension in the tailgate latches themselves.
So, tomorrow I will explore getting a more potent 12V power source and try again.
I got tailgate latches to release, am working on something to push it away from deck lid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I got tailgate latches to release, am working on something to push it away from deck lid.
That will be next on my agenda too after I get the new more powerful latch device put in. Should get here later this week. I plan to consider using (door poppers) one on each side to kick out the tailgate enough for it to fully open on its own.
What are you using to do your setup
 

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I tried the door popper for shaved doors. I found you need a lot of amperage to make that popper work. I am using a deck lid actuator to release the tailgate latches. Here is what I found at the top of the tailgate you need to move the tailgate 4" at the bottom, inch and a half to get the tailgate to go into free fall than gravity takes over. The other problem you have is the seal on the deck lid creates a vacuum so you need something strong enough to push it away from that. I have an idea but it won't look good. I put this project on hold because I got too many other things going on. Keep me informed on what you come up with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
:unsure:
OK, lets first get in (sync) with terminology. Door poppers are just (one part) of an available overall "kit" to open shaved doors and/or shaved trunk lids. Once my more powerful "actuator" that should handle unlatching the tailgate arrives, I will be dealing with the wiring scenario (would appreciate any suggestions as to routing to cover the whole deal as I really don't want to get out my floor jack and add jack stands, etc. to route wiring all the way into the cab and back to the battery as well. Recognize it has to end up that way, just looking for the easiest "clean" and "hidden" wiring scenario.

As to the door (poppers) themselves alone, here is what I likely will go for and install.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
:unsure:
OK, my more powerful door latch type gizmo (popper if you like that term better) has arrived. Testing on the work bench with my 12V battery charger pack, it has definutely more power than the prior unit I tried.

So, I attached it to the tailgate and hooked every thing up for a test to see if it would overcome that (extremely strong) tailgate latch.
It didn't even come close, but I'm inclined to think it may be more due to the small gauge wiring I was trying to use instead of lack of power.
In order to route the tailgate wiring via the hinge at the bottom, I was trying to use extra small gauge wiring. What most would consider as (door bell wiring) also known as about 22 gauge. Is the fact that more "juice"/power/ maybe translated as AMPS can't do the job cause of my small wiring.
I pulled the tailgate latch framework out again and connected some shorter but more like 18 gauge wiring and it seemed to work again as I expected. Although, that was (not) with the connecting rods hooked up to the actual tailgate latches.
Gotta try it again tomorrow, just looking for someone that better knows if my 22 gauge wiring just might have been the real problem.:rolleyes:
 

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What kind of current are you required to use? The 22ga. may support it once or twice but not on a regular basis.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
(y)
OK, that brings about some more questions. Can you show a pic of your wiring (routing) exiting the tailgate itself. Which ever side you chose to use, you gottal exit by the hinge and I had pulled off that plastic formed piece that slides over the curved hinge and on the drivers side covers the wiring to the 3rd brake light. So, I was trying to do the same thing only going thru the right side and putting my 22 gauge wiring under that plastic cover.
Were you able to run your `12ga under the plastic cover or just along side to get back into the cargo bay area.

Also, where were you able to find a smaller diameter spring that matches the stock tailgate latch spring. In a related post, I saw where Swt Rd and mentioned different springs. Maybe same as what you have. A weaker spring might be the deal even though this actuator I got is supposed to have 60lb. pull.

Also, I see you are using a relay. I'm debating whether or not I will need to use one as I'm planning to go with a "remote" triggered switch and I think that switch acts as its own relay too. It hasnt arrived yet so need to review directions when it gets here.
 

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OK Mo... Here is some food for thought:

If you're running a big solenoid like pictured below, you need to run big gauge wire on the power side, including a ground, and both to the battery. My power is fused, using the square FMX Bussman type fuses you'll find in the under-hood fuse box. The micro fuses won't handle the quick spike in amperage the solenoid will draw (even out to 40a).

You need at least one relay depending on how you want it to operate (with cargo cover or independently).
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Getting the wires properly configured
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Just before running under the cover:
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If you do it "right" it should look like nobody was there, and everything is properly taped and split loomed underneath as well.

Here are a few pics of some of my early work.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
:unsure:
Neatly done running those wires as shown. Looks like you might have "starched" them for them to hold that curved hinge shape like they appear. Did you place the wiring bundle as wrapped (on top) of the hinge itself and then add the plastic cover or is the bundle on the bottom side of the actual hinge and then add the plastic cover to hide them???

As to that square fmx fuse, not very familar with those. Can you get those as (stand alone) that is not just the fuse alone, but the female part of it too so it could be wired in line. Assume you added it between outgoing power on relay and the actuator.
 
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