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Discussion Starter #1
Strange occurrence for me. Gauge up to now had been pretty steady around the 210 range. I checked it with Torque several times over the first few months of ownership(Mar, '17), and it was showing 200-205 , so the gauge was reading slightly high. In the warmer temps of Vegas, it was holding OK around 210 with the New Mikes AZ fan, but would occasionally go up to 225. I assumed it had the 195 Stat.

Had an upper radiator hose failure while on a trip last week, and had to go to the dealer to get it fixed ( UGH!). Now, the gauge reads pretty steady on the line to the left of the 210 ( maybe 180 line?). In traffic, it might go up a couple of needle widths, and I can hear the fan cutting on ( temps were lowered on fan settings due to supercharger, around 200), so I know the engine is hotter than the gauge, but feel that the fan is compensating OK, as it goes on and off in traffic.

Checked it with Torque on the way home yesterday. It was running on the freeway at the 180? line. As soon as I plugged in Torque, the gauge came up to just below the 210 line. Torque was reading 185-192 on the freeway at 70, outside temp around 70. As soon as I removed the Torque and adapter, the gauge came back down to the 180 line again.

Do you thing the stepper motor on the gauge is going out? Problem with the Stat? As far as I know, the dealer did not mess with the Stat ( not on the bill), but I was surprised to see the low running temps on the Hwy- thought a stock 195 stat would keep the temps around 200. Could it be that I have a 180 stat, and just didn't know? Anything that could have been compromised by changing out the upper radiator hose ( wire pinched, etc?). New Coolant working better?

Looking for a good starting point, or maybe some confirmation that the gauge is OK?
 

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Strange occurrence for me. Gauge up to now had been pretty steady around the 210 range. I checked it with Torque several times over the first few months of ownership(Mar, '17), and it was showing 200-205 , so the gauge was reading slightly high. In the warmer temps of Vegas, it was holding OK around 210 with the New Mikes AZ fan, but would occasionally go up to 225. I assumed it had the 195 Stat.

Had an upper radiator hose failure while on a trip last week, and had to go to the dealer to get it fixed ( UGH!). Now, the gauge reads pretty steady on the line to the left of the 210 ( maybe 180 line?). In traffic, it might go up a couple of needle widths, and I can hear the fan cutting on ( temps were lowered on fan settings due to supercharger, around 200), so I know the engine is hotter than the gauge, but feel that the fan is compensating OK, as it goes on and off in traffic.

Checked it with Torque on the way home yesterday. It was running on the freeway at the 180? line. As soon as I plugged in Torque, the gauge came up to just below the 210 line. Torque was reading 185-192 on the freeway at 70, outside temp around 70. As soon as I removed the Torque and adapter, the gauge came back down to the 180 line again.

Do you thing the stepper motor on the gauge is going out? Problem with the Stat? As far as I know, the dealer did not mess with the Stat ( not on the bill), but I was surprised to see the low running temps on the Hwy- thought a stock 195 stat would keep the temps around 200. Could it be that I have a 180 stat, and just didn't know? Anything that could have been compromised by changing out the upper radiator hose ( wire pinched, etc?). New Coolant working better?

Looking for a good starting point, or maybe some confirmation that the gauge is OK?
What is Torque you are referring to? Where does it plug in?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Torque is an Android App that can read engine data and codes via a bluetooth adapter, ELM327. Torque is free, torque Pro is just a few dollars, and the adapter is available on Ebay or Amazon for less than $10.
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
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Torque is an Android App that can read engine data and codes via a bluetooth adapter, ELM327. Torque is free, torque Pro is just a few dollars, and the adapter is available on Ebay or Amazon for less than $10.
Thanks. I am still in the flip phone world so do not know of such things.:frown2:
 
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Genuinely SSR Obsessed
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Thanks. I am still in the flip phone world so do not know of such things.:frown2:
=========================================
Hold on there!!!! What's wrong with a "flip phone??!!?

images-28.jpeg

Hellfire....Look at mine....it's the "Cat's Meow"!!!


:surprise::glol:glol:glol​



================
David :black:






 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
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=========================================
Hold on there!!!! What's wrong with a "flip phone??!!?


Hellfire....Look at mine....it's the "Cat's Meow"!!!


:surprise::glol:glol:glol​



================
David :black:






Nothing wrong but the screen size is too small to see anything.
 
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Strange occurrence for me. Gauge up to now had been pretty steady around the 210 range. I checked it with Torque several times over the first few months of ownership(Mar, '17), and it was showing 200-205 , so the gauge was reading slightly high. In the warmer temps of Vegas, it was holding OK around 210 with the New Mikes AZ fan, but would occasionally go up to 225. I assumed it had the 195 Stat.

Had an upper radiator hose failure while on a trip last week, and had to go to the dealer to get it fixed ( UGH!). Now, the gauge reads pretty steady on the line to the left of the 210 ( maybe 180 line?). In traffic, it might go up a couple of needle widths, and I can hear the fan cutting on ( temps were lowered on fan settings due to supercharger, around 200), so I know the engine is hotter than the gauge, but feel that the fan is compensating OK, as it goes on and off in traffic.

Checked it with Torque on the way home yesterday. It was running on the freeway at the 180? line. As soon as I plugged in Torque, the gauge came up to just below the 210 line. Torque was reading 185-192 on the freeway at 70, outside temp around 70. As soon as I removed the Torque and adapter, the gauge came back down to the 180 line again.

Do you thing the stepper motor on the gauge is going out? Problem with the Stat? As far as I know, the dealer did not mess with the Stat ( not on the bill), but I was surprised to see the low running temps on the Hwy- thought a stock 195 stat would keep the temps around 200. Could it be that I have a 180 stat, and just didn't know? Anything that could have been compromised by changing out the upper radiator hose ( wire pinched, etc?). New Coolant working better?

Looking for a good starting point, or maybe some confirmation that the gauge is OK?
First off, you do not have a 195* thermostat. The SSR and all other LS engine powered vehicles use a 186* thermostat that is located in the lower hose to water pump connection. You are assuming a 195* t- stat like when it was located on the water outlet top hose. GM went to the lower hose water pump location because there is less thermo shock to the engine, as the water in the radiator is now heated before entering the engine. Where as before the cold/cool water would be well below operating temp.
A engine will have a 10* rise from water intake temp to water outlet temp. This applies to all thermostat controlled cooling systems. So now knowing this, with a 186* t-stat and a 10* rise through the engine. You have a outlet temp of 195-196*

To rule out the stepper motor, does it sweep like the other gauges? If so it should be good.

Next if you have never replaced the t-stat and it could be the original, it could be failing and opening too early. I would start with a new 186* AC Delco t-stat.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I checked the sweep of the gauges today, and they sweep all the way to the right EXCEPT the coolant temp gauge, which only goes about 75% of the way before coming back. Sounds like maybe that one may be going bad??
 

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I checked the sweep of the gauges today, and they sweep all the way to the right EXCEPT the coolant temp gauge, which only goes about 75% of the way before coming back. Sounds like maybe that one may be going bad??
I'm a so/so fair less than great mechanic, but I am pretty good at math
210 is 87.5% of 240
If your temp gauge is reading at 87.5% I expect the gauge is the first place I would start.

(I expect I have mis-read this so waiting for the guys that tell me I know nothing!) HaHa!
 

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I checked the sweep of the gauges today, and they sweep all the way to the right EXCEPT the coolant temp gauge, which only goes about 75% of the way before coming back. Sounds like maybe that one may be going bad??
It should sweep the same as the others. So it sounds like the temp gauge stepper motor is giving up. Replace all of them when you go into the cluster, as the others are just waiting to out too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, based on all your inputs, it sounds like the stepper motor is going out. I've ordered parts ( and a new gauge faceplate too:grin2: ). I'll post back after the repair with an update.
 

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I'm a so/so fair less than great mechanic, but I am pretty good at math
210 is 87.5% of 240
If your temp gauge is reading at 87.5% I expect the gauge is the first place I would start.

(I expect I have mis-read this so waiting for the guys that tell me I know nothing!) HaHa!
:surprise: To be honest with you, I never did think you knew anything. You asked for an opinion ... so you got !!! tennesseecozydog :ssr
 

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A couple of other thoughts (or my 2 cents worth). Change out all the cluster illumination bulbs while you are in there as well. If you are changing the face plate to a light color; white, silver, yellow, the OEM white needles do not show up very well against those faceplates. Consider changing to Red, Orange or possibly Blue or Green needles depending upon what color of gauge face you change to.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
A couple of other thoughts (or my 2 cents worth). Change out all the cluster illumination bulbs while you are in there as well. If you are changing the face plate to a light color; white, silver, yellow, the OEM white needles do not show up very well against those faceplates. Consider changing to Red, Orange or possibly Blue or Green needles depending upon what color of gauge face you change to.
The "Kit" I bought includes new bulbs, so I am going to change them as well. Dragon2U responded also to my question on needle color in another post, so I will be changing them to Flourescent Orange. Thanks.
 

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Cantankerous SSR CaretakR
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If you plan to paint the needles yourself, make sure you get the details from Mike (Dragon2U). The needles are actually illuminated at night thru the back of the center hub of each needle. Mike may be just painting the back-side (closest to the faceplate) of the needle, possibly just the front side or light mist coating them. If you paint too thick, you could reduce the illumination of the needle making them difficult to see at night.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update. Replacing the drive motor fixed my problem with the temp gauge ( I think- only 1 short drive so far). Replaced the driver motors yesterday and bulbs, and while I was at it, I replaced the gauge face with a white one, and painted the bottom side of the needles with Fluorescent Orange ( after removing white paint that was there). Also painted the centers of the needles white, so the needle would look like it was floating, and the press in rubber plugs. I found the speedometer motor had already been changed by a PO. Don't know whey they just did it and not all of them, but it had the newer motor, so I left it as is.

I am a little disappointed with the intensity of the replacement bulbs. They just don't look as bright as the stock bulbs, and I may have to go back in and replace them. Anyone have any specific recommendations on brighter bulbs? I've done some searching, but found nothing concrete as far as part numbers, etc to order. I did have 4 burned out when I started.
 

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I'm just starting to experiment with LED for cluster.

Superbrightleds.com #NEO3-WHP Voltage 9-14 VDC Cool White

This unit with small base, first ones I bought, base was to large to install properly.

Built in resisters and VERY bright. You can turn them down if need be.

I tried LED's years ago and they were not as bright as our OEM bulbs.

But LED's have come a long way.

I installed the LED Marker lights from Joshvette, AWSOME! Easy install and resisters are built into bulb.

Check out SSR How to Library:

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Dick. Probably going to pull it all out and re-do, while I can remember how! Seems like a good time to play around with it...

Did a little research today as well, and came up with several thoughts and questions.

Did you directly solder the T3 Wedge LED's with the twistlock holders to the board. Looks like the little wires bent at the bottom of the wedge holder are about at the right width. These indicate use of a single 3428 LED.
Have you compared the brightness yet? Are you happy?
Will they dim?

For a white gauge face, with Orange needles, would you use the bright white bulbs (6000K), or would you think about using the Red or Blue colors.

Would you consider these direct solder bulbs as options? Couldn't find direct LUMEN's quote, but info below was somewhat helpful:
1) LED 4.7MM bulbs ( same size as stock). single LED- output may be less than the one you are trying.
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BY1SLYA/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2ZW7HGAH7O2FH&colid=QB3N3WYQHMZL&psc=1[/ame]
These come in other colors as well ( blue, red, etc)

2) LED SMD 4.7 ( 3ea 3014 LEDs vs 1ea 3428 LED on the one you are trying) Output should be considerably higher
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011E8T4GW/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2DR7V6CUKLDOJ&colid=QB3N3WYQHMZL&psc=1[/ame]
These come in other colors as well ( blue, red, etc)

Some info I found on Lumens of various LED's.
https://www.saving-star.com/smd-led-comparison/
 
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