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Chris and I recently purchased an aluminum 18 ft Shadow ( by Forrest River) trailer to tow Little Red to events where we don'rt want to place all the mileage on her like going to the International in Branson Mo in October.

What type of tie downs are the best for flat trailer use . The over the tire wheel type or the type that hooks on to the frame or undercarriage. If it the frame or undercarriage type where are the best suggest tie down points on the SSR underneath.

I have towed "farm Tractors" but have always used heavy log chains and binders for that job. What do you suggest for the SSR

Thanks in advance for your reply's

Layne12gun
North Florida..
 

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Over the tire much easier for sure I went to northern tool and bounght the yellow straps with loops on each end to use
 

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Layne make sure your hold downs on the trailer are up to the weight of the SSR and use good quality straps. Weather you go with straps that go over the tires or straps over the axles or to the frame make sure they are good quality. My personal preference is axle straps on the rear pulling right side to the right rear most point left rear to left rear most point and the front are criss crossed off the front control arms normally. That is how I tie down all my cars. I have never towed my SSRs I also leave my winch hooked to the vehicle and snug for a back up even if I drove the car on the trailer I will hook the winch cable for added security. Straps will flex a little and not damage a vehicle where chains can rip a frame or cause damage to the trailer. I also will load up, tie everything down then travel for a short distance then pull over and check my straps again. I also check my straps, tires and safety chains every time I stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Layne make sure your hold downs on the trailer are up to the weight of the SSR and use good quality straps. Weather you go with straps that go over the tires or straps over the axles or to the frame make sure they are good quality. My personal preference is axle straps on the rear pulling right side to the right rear most point left rear to left rear most point and the front are criss crossed off the front control arms normally. That is how I tie down all my cars. I have never towed my SSRs I also leave my winch hooked to the vehicle and snug for a back up even if I drove the car on the trailer I will hook the winch cable for added security. Straps will flex a little and not damage a vehicle where chains can rip a frame or cause damage to the trailer. I also will load up, tie everything down then travel for a short distance then pull over and check my straps again. I also check my straps, tires and safety chains every time I stop.

What brand or manufacturer of tie down do you choose to use. Thanks Pretty much the same way I tie down my tractors. The Trailer is a Forrest River shadow. Tie down are mounted in deck via bolts and recessed .
 

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I will check when I go out side but it is snowing and cold outside so it may not be today. I bought mine at the speed shop years ago and take good care of them. I have 2 complete sets. One for each trailer. I bought plastic tool boxes that I keep them in so that keeps them safe and together. The sun does the most damage to the material of the straps so try to keep them out of the sunlight when not in use. I see some people with keep them tied across their trailer when they are not in use and that is what does the most damage to them. The nylon breaks down from the UV rays.
 

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BAD BOW TIE
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There was a post years ago where a guy actually tore a hole in the frame using chain tiedowns.
 

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If I remember correctly it was towing or winching on a flatbed that tore the frame when they hooked into an un-reinforced lightening hole.

When trailering if you tie down the wheels or axles, the truck is still riding on it's suspension. That motion added to the movement of the trailer on it's suspension adds up. I've trailered '50s cars that got pretty wild, pitching side to side on uneven roads.
That said, the SSR suspension is pretty stiff and if the trailer suspension is also stiff it shouldn't be a problem.
 

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Hey Layne I got around to checking my tie downs and there is no name on the metal parts but the straps have tags sewn on and only one was still legible but there was no name only made in USA. I looked at Jeg's and there are some made by Simpson and All Star like what I have. I use a pair of the ones with the axle straps built in and a pair with just the hooks on each end. But my primary use is hauling race cars, which are a lot lighter. My cars depending on which one is barely 3,000 pounds. The SSR is closer to 5,000 I think.
 

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I DO WINDOWS
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Drag car guys worry about shock wear do to heat from bouncing on trailer. CROSS STRAPS ON FRONT and on back, STRAPS GO BACK NOT CROSSED. Block under frame and pull frame down. The truck will be held tight to blocks with no suspension movement. Also the weight is fixed with trailer, no slosh like water in tank because the truck is not in motion on suspension, if tied down as I stated. Make sure you have three full wraps on each binder spool. Used straps over frame no hooks to frame. hooks to straps only.


Also, you need to lock down the blocking so it can not move out from under the frame.
 

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According to the manufacturer the proper way to tie the vehicle down is with T hooks. That's what is used when the cars are delivered new they say. The frame has slots made to accept these specialty hooks then use heavy straps from there to tie downs on the trailer. Just make sure the straps don't make contact with anything in between or they will cause damage to the truck or sever the strap. I had to install more D rings on my last trailer to avoid this. I used this set up from California to Oklahoma with no issues. Just check for tightness periodically.
 

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Drag car guys worry about shock wear do to heat from bouncing on trailer. CROSS STRAPS ON FRONT and on back, STRAPS GO BACK NOT CROSSED. Block under frame and pull frame down. The truck will be held tight to blocks with no suspension movement. Also the weight is fixed with trailer, no slosh like water in tank because the truck is not in motion on suspension, if tied down as I stated. Make sure you have three full wraps on each binder spool. Used straps over axle and front frame no hooks to frame. hooks to straps only.
I've used this method on other vehicles and it works just fine. Did mine over the axle and A arms though, better over the frame. Not that it probably matters but my wife following me has said that the vehicle bobs up and down over bumps though because the suspension is free to float with the weight of the truck. I now use T hooks to the frame even on other vehicles too.
 

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I DO WINDOWS
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vehicle bobs up and down over bumps though because the suspension is free to float
This is why I say to block under the frame and then pull frame down. So (trailer blocking and truck) are all solid as one with no suspension travel. I use 4"x4" posts with what every 2x4s needed to fill the gap under the frame to the trailer. The big buck boys buy special rubber bladers that pump up with air under the framework. But I am a poor boy.

https://timmcamis.com/shop/chassis-stabilizer.html
 

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Rachet type binder has a spool ... the picture shows a black spool that the webbing wraps around as it tightens. A good three wraps ensure the tail of the webbing will not slip out of the spool. You're just joking with me, aren't you?
 

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Those bladders are nice and when you compare the price of coil over shocks and springs they are cheap compared to what some drag racers spend on shock tuning. Towing has come a long way compared to home made tow bars to stacker trailers and totter homes. I thought I was doing good when I could afford a open trailer and a half ton pick up truck. When I got to an enclosed trailer and a diesel 3/4 ton crew cab I realized racing costs more than this poor boy wanted to spend.
 

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Got my T hooks on line for about ten bucks each from what I remember. Never too old to learn a new trick. After watching the video link from Rebel I now know that a bouncing car is not good at all. Even with tie points to the frame the car can still bounce without air bags or blocks. Probably why I have to retighten the straps for the first few hours of towing. Air bags are now on my wish list. And yea I admit... mine is sometimes a trailer queen, but mainly cause we prefer to travel in the motorhome with the R in the trailer.
 
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