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Discussion Starter #1
When closing the top on the SSR the header latch closes and then the roof slips back 3/8 inch after cycle completes or if you release the top button with the top tonneau cover up and turn the ignition switch off.

Reservoir fluid level above the minimum mark with top up.
No leaks and no fluid in the top compartment.
No bottom out clunk indicating struts.

Searched a lot of roof problem threads but did not see a thread with the same issue.
I Won’t to fix the issue but not by just throwing new parts at it.
Any trouble shooting ideals.

YouTube Video at https://youtu.be/LksrMe-b588
 

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Adjust the linkage

It doesn't look to me like the latch moves all the way to the right of the slot.
May need to adjust the linkage.
Contact the Dicktator . The Florida guys have much more experience with the top.

Jack
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I didn't hear the chimes at the end of the cycle?
That's next on the list. Apparently a previous owner disabled the chimes because the DIC was showing roof ajar and had a pull wire on the emergency cargo release. After adjusting drivers side micro 3 position switch, it dose not show roof ajar and the cargo cover works from the remote and the glove box switch. From the looks of the dusty roof seals the problem has been going on for some time.
 

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Daily Driver
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I doubt it's dusty seals. When the roof pulls back it's lifting that latch hook, or the latch hook relaxes allowing the roof to pull back. Either way, it shouldn't do that, there's something amiss with that latch.
 

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Tech Support/Research
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Roof Adjustment

What is the gap between the front of the roof panel and the windshield header on the exterior? Specs call for it to be between 7-9mm (approx. 9/32"- 11/32"). Also, the header latch rods can be adjusted at their ends if they are not fully pulling those roof latches tight.

I suggest checking all of the gaps between panels to be within spec for spacing, parallelism and flushness before making any adjustments. This will preclude making only one adjustment and then having to chase others that might change as a result. Note that adjustment of the top front roof panel, if necessary, can be made by loosening the side rail fasteners. I also suggest checking and ensuring the header and front latches are correctly adjusted before adjusting the roof panels.

Additional note: In your other, previous thread on this topic you noted that you re-indexed the sprocket at the header motor connection. Since then, have you checked the end of the latch rods- where they connect to the circular latch plate- to ensure the circular plate travels its full distance to the index stop at the center of the header? The center of the header is not visible in your video but a close look at the one latch you highlight appears to show that the travel is short of full in the slot. One of the index tabs is visible in the attached photo.
 

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Is this the car you got from Tnhillbilly? With the way it was hit and repaired this may be something you pull your hair out trying to figure out. Frame or body may be off a fraction at one point and lot more at another. Just my .02.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Back in the shop this morning testing. It appears the issue is from cutting the power to the hydraulic pump. Cycle the top up until the header latch locks, leave the ignition switch on, get out of truck and walk around checking the gaps. Everything looks good. Turn the ignition switch to off and the top shifts back about a quarter of an inch. Same results if you go full close cycle, shifts back at the end of the cycle.

Does the Hydraulic Pump or Hydraulic system have a check valve?

Could it be the top cylinders (no leaks)?

Could it be the struts (no clunk when you cycle the top open)?

Adjusted both Header Latch locks to the maximum close limits and re-indexed with circular plate all the way to the stop.

Yes this is the car Tnhillbilly had. The paper work from the NY owner makes me think the issue was present when he (NY owner) purchased the truck.
 

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Tech Support/Research
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Roof Operation

Back in the shop this morning testing. It appears the issue is from cutting the power to the hydraulic pump. Cycle the top up until the header latch locks, leave the ignition switch on, get out of truck and walk around checking the gaps. Everything looks good. Turn the ignition switch to off and the top shifts back about a quarter of an inch. Same results if you go full close cycle, shifts back at the end of the cycle.

Does the Hydraulic Pump or Hydraulic system have a check valve?

Could it be the top cylinders (no leaks)?

Could it be the struts (no clunk when you cycle the top open)?

Adjusted both Header Latch locks to the maximum close limits and re-indexed with circular plate all the way to the stop.

Yes this is the car Tnhillbilly had. The paper work from the NY owner makes me think the issue was present when he (NY owner) purchased the truck.
There are limit switches in the header and at the outer latches. Their function and operation is described in Section 8 of the Service Manual (Page 8-821 for 2005). There might be some clues there- maybe one is out of adjustment from a previous accident?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Maybe I am looking at it wrong. Is it the header latches in the locked position what holds the roof fully closed?

This photo is the passenger side header lock. Please look at the yellow arrow. This is the in the fully locked position. Is this correct or should the lock travel to the end of the channel?
 

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Tech Support/Research
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Roof Header Latches

Maybe I am looking at it wrong. Is it the header latches in the locked position what holds the roof fully closed?

This photo is the passenger side header lock. Please look at the yellow arrow. This is the in the fully locked position. Is this correct or should the lock travel to the end of the channel?
Mark:

Yes, the header latches lock the front of the roof. Based on a few latches I've seen off a truck, there is no gap in the latch pin in that same area when in the locked position although there is a slight amount of end play. I don't know what the acceptable end play tolerance limit is supposed to be. On latches that are bent the hook portion of the latch clearly does not move far enough to fully capture the mating roof catch points when in the fully locked position.

A photo of my latch is attached.
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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I would like to see it doing the operation.

Hard to say by looking at pictures but it is not closed enough to latch.

There is adjustment on roof latch, you say header latch is working. I don't think that is the problem.

Also chaffed wires at roof cover hinge, stops operation from completing.

Even check valve on pump could be a problem, not holding while latching.

Don't know, get TECH 2 on it and you can find the problem.

Do some reading on HOW TO LIBRARY! May help. Look up roof.

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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This is video from Saturday https://youtu.be/LksrMe-b588

I will add another video showing more of the header latch.
Roof latching is slightly out of alignment but working.

You need to change Pneumatic gas cylinders (roof compartment) and adjust roof latch, in my opinion.

See SSR How to Library: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator

1. Pneumatic roof cylinders, 130lbs each = 260 lbs holding power to keep roof closed and to buffer roof when being stowed in roof compartment. Hydraulic system releases check valve after 20/30 seconds, then it depends on latch and pneumatic cylinders to stay closed. If your roof does a "thud" when it stows in roof bed, change Pneumatic Cylinders or you will damage your hydraulic system. Get them from Simple Engineering or Dicktator

2. With roof slightly open, gently "pry" roof rod off header latch ball, loosen lock nut and make two turns on end receiver, tighten lock nut, this will bring roof in a little tighter.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Roof latching is slightly out of alignment but working.

You need to change Pneumatic gas cylinders (roof compartment) and adjust roof latch, in my opinion.

See SSR How to Library: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator

1. Pneumatic roof cylinders, 130lbs each = 260 lbs holding power to keep roof closed and to buffer roof when being stowed in roof compartment. Hydraulic system releases check valve after 20/30 seconds, then it depends on latch and pneumatic cylinders to stay closed. If your roof does a "thud" when it stows in roof bed, change Pneumatic Cylinders or your will damage your hydraulic system. Get them from Simple Engineering or Dicktator

2. With roof slightly open, gently "pry" roof rod off header latch ball, loosen lock nut and make two turns on end receiver, tighten lock nut, this will bring roof in a little tighter.
Thanks Dickator

I have used you how to library many times and very much appreciate your work. I have added 3 turns on the header latch adjustments and when the roof drops back you can still move the header latch hook with your finger (loose).

This is a more detailed video of the header latches in operation. Please view at your convenience and give me your opinion. Thanks Mark

https://youtu.be/emHb6ue4OF4
 

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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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I suspect that you have a weak set of pneumatic roof struts. Wipe your finger under the bottom connection of the pneumatic cylinder and see if you come up with a wet finger. If your finger has a bunch of oil on it, you can bet that it came out of the pneumatic strut.

Regards,

Mike
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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Thanks Mike, I have watched the video several times, roof latching in working fine.

I would take 2 more turns on the rods but not more than that.

I do think you need to replace your Pneumatic (gas) cylinders for the roof asap. They support the latching/hinge system to keep roof closed/latched and no rattles.

Pneumatic cylinders supply the 260 lbs support to keep roof in place.

What bothers me is why did it get so loose? It may have been a slow process until the Pneumatic lost so much pressure.

On How to Library: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

Dicktator

1. Gas cylinders
2. Easy to remove
3. Easy to replace.
 

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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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It may also be possible that someone has mucked around with the factory settings on your roof system. If that is the case, they may have messed with the adjustment for the full-up stop of the main roof hinges. This is something that I have NEVER messed with, as they were calibrated at the factory when the roof was assembled into the SSR. It does not mean that I wouldn't..... it just means that I haven't....

I still think you need to replace the pneumatics..... but....... If the replacement of the pneumatic struts does not solve the spring-back issue, you may need to look closely at the maximum up stops on each side of the main hinge assembly.

Below are a couple photos of a roof assembly that I have on hand here. The hinges are in the "fully up" position and I pulled them back a smidge to get a little space between the rubber bumper and the resting area. Look at these and you will see that there is an adjustment for the stop...... my finger is pointing to it. Remember that you will only see this view with the roof up and the tonneau open. Once you retract the roof, the hinge rotates down.....

Regards,

Mike
 

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BAD BOW TIE
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It may also be possible that someone has mucked around with the factory settings on your roof system. If that is the case, they may have messed with the adjustment for the full-up stop of the main roof hinges. This is something that I have NEVER messed with, as they were calibrated at the factory when the roof was assembled into the SSR. It does not mean that I wouldn't..... it just means that I haven't....

I still think you need to replace the pneumatics..... but....... If the replacement of the pneumatic struts does not solve the spring-back issue, you may need to look closely at the maximum up stops on each side of the main hinge assembly.

Below are a couple photos of a roof assembly that I have on hand here. The hinges are in the "fully up" position and I pulled them back a smidge to get a little space between the rubber bumper and the resting area. Look at these and you will see that there is an adjustment for the stop...... my finger is pointing to it. Remember that you will only see this view with the roof up and the tonneau open. Once you retract the roof, the hinge rotates down.....

Regards,

Mike
Mike,
If you go back to the beginning this SSR was hit or rolled and repaired so no telling what was adjusted, moved, repaired etc. Almost have to start from the beginning. Good luck.
 

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the hydralic pressure

From the video it appears that the hydraulic pressure to the cylinders is holding the roof in place, when the sound from the pump stops the roof moves up. the "j" hook that holds the top down is not in contact with the roller in the receiver that it latches to and when there is no pressure from the cylinders to hold it down the roller the "J" hooks to moves up about 1/2". Either the latch is out of adjustment or bent or the "J" hook is out of adjustment.

Check the sound of the pump and when it stops the "J" hook moves up 1/2".

Jack
 
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